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Which clutch [Merged 3-9] what clutch best

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rayden

20+ Year Contributor
137
0
Apr 15, 2002
ok i am going to get a new clutch for my car. i was wandering which one i should go with. i was thinking of the act 2100. Dont think i want the 2600 because it is a daily driven car and will only go to the track a couple times a year. if there are some other brands you all would suggest let me know. i want a good streetable clutch for a cheap budget.
 
^^^Yep I bought the Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch


How much did you pay for?
Have you noted your "centerforce dual friction clutch" is in fact an Exedy-Daikin clutch?OMG
If you see that cover and disc, both of them have "DK" brand stamped on it.:shhh:
I think there is no reason to buy a "centerforce" or "act" clutch, when those are Exedy and just painted orange or yellow.:confused:
Bye
 
Well I got the clutch installed along with the Flywheel and it feels GREAT!! Very good. Can't really "test" it out since I got to break it in, but it feels really good right now. Surprisingly the clutch is a lot stiffer than my other one. Also, found out that the guy before me put in an Autozone clutch:toobad:. So maybe that is why it was such a great jump in stiffness.

But... there is always a but. But, when they were installing it they snapped off the bolt (a bolt was seized up really bad) for the lower control arm so I had to buy another control arm. And I also found out that my starter was the cause of the crackling that I would hear when I started it. So I had to buy a new starter.
How much did you pay for?

This is what I bought:
Centerforce Dual Friction clutch kit (pressure plate and street disc)
Fidanza flywheel
3 quarts of Redline MT-90 tranny fluid
SS braided clutch line
OEM TOB

Grand total: $600

Original clutch install price: $250 (I was really surprised by the quote on the install)
But, like I said I had to replace some things so the overall total cost was about $400 which is still really good.
 
If anyone could help me decide on a decent clutch/flywheel combo for my current setup, that'd be AWESOME! I'm having so much trouble deciding on which setup is best fit for my car.

Also, I have plans of 900+cc injectors tuned with DSMLINK after this clutch purchase so keep that in mind when thinking clutches.

Any help is appreciated! Thanks!


My car's setup can obviously be viewed in my profile.
 
I have a ACT 2100 with a sprung hub 6 puck disc, it is rated for more torque than the 2600 with a street disc.

What is your HP/torque goal?
 
I have a ACT 2100 with a sprung hub 6 puck disc, it is rated for more torque than the 2600 with a street disc.

What is your HP/torque goal?

550-600HP ish. Any modifications needed to make these numbers happen will happen over this coming winter. Just need to get my clutch/flywheel setup on lock for the rest of the summer.
 
DGajre777 knows what he's talking about. All this 2X00 talk is about the pressureplate. Why are you all talking about pressureplates? I do not recommend a street disk for such a goal. A 6 puck sprung hub would be best. And if you can get one w/ marcel then it will be QUITE streetable.

If you have the SBR KIT, then the pressureplate is between the clamping force of an ACT 2600 and 2900. It should do jsut fine for such a goal.
 
DGajre777 knows what he's talking about. All this 2X00 talk is about the pressureplate. Why are you all talking about pressureplates? I do not recommend a street disk for such a goal. A 6 puck sprung hub would be best. And if you can get one w/ marcel then it will be QUITE streetable.

If you have the SBR KIT, then the pressureplate is between the clamping force of an ACT 2600 and 2900. It should do jsut fine for such a goal.
I HAD a 2600 PP with sbr street disc..believe it was the 3500? Anyways, one of the springs/housing around the spring shattered. So no more SBR for me. But thanks for the advice and I'll keep the "no street disc" recommendation in mind!
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263755

I would call them up and see what kind of price you could get on a 2900.
Definately going to call them up and check it out. Thanks!

Here is another thread.

The Devo setup seems to be the winner here and is what I'm going to buy when my 2600 w/ SBR street disc goes out.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242047

Definately looks like a nice clutch! Twin Disc power and flywheel included for 1200? Not bad at all! Only question is..will buying a twin disc setup HURT me on the street as opposed to a act kit? Will I still be able to "daily drive" my fast car, or will the clutch lose power (meaning will it shit the bed sooner) from so much stop/go traffic?

Twin Disc from DEVO? Or Act 2600-2900? Prices aside.
 
I HAD a 2600 PP with sbr street disc..believe it was the 3500? Anyways, one of the springs/housing around the spring shattered. So no more SBR for me. But thanks for the advice and I'll keep the "no street disc" recommendation in mind!
WOW! a spring took out a pressure plate? I've had one "lock" the pressureplate. A piece was binding in between the diaphragm and plate surface. I also had an ACT street disk completey sheared in two. The hub separated from the rest of the clutch disk. springs went everywhere LOL . I guess I was lucky.

Yea, I'm still running the SBR 3500 coupled w/ a 6 puck Clutchnet E-Z lock w/ sprung hub. Though there is no marcel it is still rather surprisingly streetable. I get a little chatter putzing around town.

Between the two choices, the DEVO kit seams like the last clutch kit you'll buy.
 
Here's what can happen to a street disk (this was an ACT, but I've done this to a Competition also) even w/ supposedly "tractionless" fwd when you're running such a power level:

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Notice that the springs are still intact and look as though they would function properly IF the hub was infact still attached to the disk.

My sbr 3500 pressureplate heald fine and the act clutch surface held fine. Well, held fine enough to shear the street disk into two pieces.
 
I've been where you are. I went from a Centerforce DF, to a 2600, to a SPEC with a feramic sprung 6-puck, to a SPEC Stage IV unsprung 6-puck. In the end I was making about 500 lb-ft of torque and got tired of burning through clutches. I don't care what anybody says, IMHO the puck discs suck for street driving. They're noisy, chattery, and grabby. From my latest build I decided to go with a twin. After much research I decided to go with the Exedy of the Hesspower. I ended up going with the Hesspower because it's slightly heavier. Trust me when I tell you that light isn't what you want if you're going to be streeting this car. Go ahead and spend the extra $600 on the Exedy and you'll never look back.
 
I don't care what anybody says, IMHO the puck discs suck for street driving. They're noisy, chattery, and grabby.

I've been where you are. I went from a Centerforce DF, to a 2600, to a SPEC with a feramic sprung 6-puck, to a SPEC Stage IV unsprung 6-puck.
Sprung hub 6 pucks can handle far over your power level you've mentioned having and do not chatter nearly as much.

Trust me when I tell you that light isn't what you want if you're going to be streeting this car.
Hmmm, why?
 
Meaning I don't need it for the power levels I'm hoping for?

He means that it will work great for your power levels and if/when you want more power the clutch will handle it. The reviews that I have read sound great. They will take alot of abuse and keep going.
 
Sprung hub 6 pucks can handle far over your power level you've mentioned having and do not chatter nearly as much.


Hmmm, why do so many guys around here complain about lightweight flywheels and parking lot driving? :confused:

Read my quote again. I've run both sprung and unsprung. They both suck. It's just a question of to what degree. While it's true that they can handle the power and are streetable on a budget, there is no comparison to a twin. It's not even apples and oranges, it's more like apples and dog turds.
 
Read my quote again. I've run both sprung and unsprung. They both suck. It's just a question of to what degree. While it's true that they can handle the power and are streetable on a budget, there is no comparison to a twin. It's not even apples and oranges, it's more like apples and dog turds.

:thumb:

My spring hub 6puck does quite well for the street. But it's good to know such an expensive disk is better. It should be.
 
i always thought the 6-puck with the 2900 act was the best combo. i have seen 2 dsm's with over 500hp using the same clutch setups for over 2 years. racing on it 3 or 4 times a month, and driving it around town on friday and saturday nights. so 6-puck and 2900 act is my 2cents.
typhoon
 
That is unless he reaches a power level that will break a street disk. Then he can go to VERY expensive options that shift like a street disk or he can compromise.

I've had good success w/ a puck disk and a pressureplate w/ a high clamping force yet low pedal pressure. The low pedal pressure helps your ankle muscle do its job in slipping properly. W/ out having to stand on the clutch pedal and get that on/off feeling. Yea, I don't run in town too terribly much. But often. I'm sure an hour of stop and go metro traffic would be the real test. But at least the left leg wouldn't be tired (having to control the slip attentively) considering the clutch pressure is very close to stock.
 
just go with an act 2100/2600 pp and either a horsepower freaks feramic street disk, or else the 2600 and a south bend clutch sprung kevlar street disk. The second option is used by a guy on dsmlink forums (maybe here) that runs 580lbs. torque and 600 some horsepower...... and its what I run and absolutely love it. The horsepower freaks would have been nice but it costs about $400 for the disk alone.

oh and the south bend disk is stepped up and down, so it looks like an 8 puck but is a street disk.
 
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