Which clutch [Merged 3-9] what clutch best

[rayden]

ok i am going to get a new clutch for my car. i was wandering which one i should go with. i was thinking of the act 2100. Dont think i want the 2600 because it is a daily driven car and will only go to the track a couple times a year. if there are some other brands you all would suggest let me know. i want a good streetable clutch for a cheap budget.

 

[kraka]

They'll probably include an alignment tool unless it specifically says it isn't included. Another vote for the Spec Stage 3 here. Low pedal pressure, grabs HARD. I've got a Fidanza in there with it, and I have no drivability issues either.

Woot woot!

Honestly, one of your earlier posts (at least a year ago) is what inspired me to pick up the Spec unit from the beginning, and I have done my part after that by convincing at least 5+ of my buddies to run the same clutch and we all had great results...

BTW, I will now be running the same unit on a PTE 50trim and later my 60-1 so I guess I'll keep updates on how it holds up...Im very confident it will hold up great

 

[Dream On]

Woot woot!

Honestly, one of your earlier posts (at least a year ago) is what inspired me to pick up the Spec unit from the beginning, and I have done my part after that by convincing at least 5+ of my buddies to run the same clutch and we all had great results...

BTW, I will now be running the same unit on a PTE 50trim and later my 60-1 so I guess I'll keep updates on how it holds up...Im very confident it will hold up great

That's pretty cool. I went out on a limb since there weren't too many people with it, and I've had no problems with it whatsoever. Holds all 200 hp that my car makes just fine. I can't wait until I actually get some more stuff done to the car to see how it holds up. I'm not worried about it failing though.

 

[spyderturbo007]

I'll be posting a review of the HyperDrive C2 set-up in a week or two after I get a chance to check it out. I looked around and couldn't find anything on the package, but decided I would go on Extreme's advice and pick one up. Good luck and make sure you post a review.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

definitly go CFDF, stock like peddle pressure, grabs nice and smooth, but strong.. I love 'em.. they don't come with an alignment tool though, mine didn't at least.. but that's no big deal.. get the act one if you can, or you can buy a generic one too..

 

[JOEY A]

SPec Stage III would be my choice...

I ran one in my 91awd and it was amazing!

Super light pedal pressure, but its a 6-puck and holds 415lb ft. of torque...

Plus, you can't beat $300 shipped!

BTW, Im not a fan of lightweight flywheels for drag racing

You heard me bitching enough, really light flywheels in street cars blow ass when you have a stiff 2,600.....

Its nice to have a stock one beccause you have more tq down low

 

[SolidBoostTSi]

Try out the new ACT 9800 j/K
well, aside frome that have you looked at exedy stage 2 clutches? I have had that particular setup before and none the less that clutch took damn near everything i gave it....except for the SC61

Great clutch:
3 puck Cerametallic pucks
sprung hub
stock-like pressure
HELLA GRAB on launches!!!


just my .02

-Solid

 

[daren_p]

No, the Centerforce doesn't come with the alignment tool. I picked mine up from a local vendor, believe its the ACT one for like $5. So far the CFDF has treated me great, probably got about 15K on it now. Most of the time was running an evoIII @ 18-22psi & now my 3052 at 22 psi. I have never checked the car for crank walk (what you don't know, can't hurt you ) but as far as being the nicest to the thrust bearing, this clutch should be on the top of your list.

 

[kmoore]

Well, I already bought and received the clutch with Fidanza Flywheel last week. So, its a done deal.

No, the Centerforce doesn't come with the alignment tool. I picked mine up from a local vendor, believe its the ACT one for like $5. So far the CFDF has treated me great, probably got about 15K on it now. Most of the time was running an evoIII @ 18-22psi & now my 3052 at 22 psi. I have never checked the car for crank walk (what you don't know, can't hurt you ) but as far as being the nicest to the thrust bearing, this clutch should be on the top of your list.

Daren, since it seems to me that you have had great success with the CFDF, do you think you could go into great detail on how you broke in your clutch? I know your supposed to do the 500 city mile break-in peirod and wait before 6-700 miles for any hard launches but what should I shift at (I think I read anywhere between 2k-2500) and should I actually pull the cotter pin out of the wastegate actuator so I get NO boost what so ever? Or should I just watch my boost gauge and not get in boost at all? Thanks

 

[wvturbo2]

You can get in boost just don't rape the car. Is it even possible to drive a car with an Evo 3 and not build boost ??

 

[kmoore]

You can get in boost just don't rape the car. Is it even possible to drive a car with an Evo 3 and not build boost ??

I don't have the EvoIII yet (still on the t25) I was just asking the original question for when I upgrade here in a month or so

 

[daren_p]

I think the paperwork that comes with the clutch recommends 450 mile break in. Looks like you understand this is stop & go driving as hoping on the highway & going for a 400 mile cruise will do nothing for the break-in. When I broke mine in I was basically easy on it for a couple weeks of work & back driving. I do see a bunch of stop & go traffic & also some open roads so I went about 550 miles before I started to test it out at all. I didn't bother to disconnect my WG. Just make sure to not go into alot of boost, I made sure to keep it under 5 psi (think I may have hit 7 psi once or twice but was after several hundred miles) & for shifting just keep to basically your DD style, say around 2500-3000. If you happen to rev abit higher I wouldn't be too worried just don't be reving it to the moon, sorta deal.

 

[kmoore]

I think the paperwork that comes with the clutch recommends 450 mile break in. Looks like you understand this is stop & go driving as hoping on the highway & going for a 400 mile cruise will do nothing for the break-in. When I broke mine in I was basically easy on it for a couple weeks of work & back driving. I do see a bunch of stop & go traffic & also some open roads so I went about 550 miles before I started to test it out at all. I didn't bother to disconnect my WG. Just make sure to not go into alot of boost, I made sure to keep it under 5 psi (think I may have hit 7 psi once or twice but was after several hundred miles) & for shifting just keep to basically your DD style, say around 2500-3000. If you happen to rev abit higher I wouldn't be too worried just don't be reving it to the moon, sorta deal.

Great information. Thanks

 

[TimG]

Daren P and I may live in the same region or towns but our views are slightly different. It's all about what works best for you I suppose. As long as you aren't trying to race bikes from stop light to stop light, you will be fine. My last RPS clutch saw 25psi within the first 200 miles of life at the strip. It took a beating and held onto it.

Years ago when I asked a reputable DSM shop how long do they wait before they beat on their clutch, they responded, "how ever long the turbo lag is."

 

[daren_p]

Daren P and I may live in the same region or towns but our views are slightly different. It's all about what works best for you I suppose. As long as you aren't trying to race bikes from stop light to stop light, you will be fine. My last RPS clutch saw 25psi within the first 200 miles of life at the strip. It took a beating and held onto it.

Years ago when I asked a reputable DSM shop how long do they wait before they beat on their clutch, they responded, "how ever long the turbo lag is."

Main difference here is which clutch your talking about breaking in. Different friction materials require different break ins. They can very from not needing any to very carefully following in the proper break in procedure. The CFDF clutch is one that is the later method & you will probably be sorry or po'd if you don't.

 

[95tsiawd6blt]

tried ordering my act 2900 6 puck, and i guess they are almost 4 weeks back ordered from act. now i am in a dilemma and need a clutch soon! i had a 2600, but its not good enough, starts to slip at high rpm's. not looking to go twin disk right now, what would hold better than a 2600 or could be similar to a act 2900?
Thanks

 

[SonySlave]

South Bend Clutches Part# K536SS. It's their DXD-F kit. It's a 6-puck feramic disk and it's only $505 from them. I have a friend running a lot of power through his and it's holding up great! It's best to call them and tell them what you are looking for and they will hook you up with what you need!

http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/home.html

Read up on them. You won't be disappointed!

 

[95tsiawd6blt]

that is one i'll keep in mind.. any other suggestions?

 

[talonz27]

i would say a sbr 4500 is comparable
both the sbr 4500 and the act 2900 6 puck are rated for around 600 hp

http://www.slowboyracing.com/estore/product.php?productid=5982&cat=1077&page=1

 

[DsM KiD4]

ive had spec on my 2g gst and my 1g gsx and no problems whatsoever. they have alot of stages depending on your mods/goals. ive ran a stage 3 and 3+. way better peddle pressure than stock and you dont feel like your left leg is getting a workout either. 100% satisfaction in my opinion. plus they have the best customer service. specclutch.com

 

[eclipse98gs-t]

I recomend Exedy-Daikin stage II clutch. Kit includes aligment tool.
Mi talon runs low 11s and clutch doenst slip never.
Get cromoly flywheel too, its amazing flywheel.
Dont forget Exedy-Daikin make OEM clutches for our DSM cars, and EVO and STi also.
Good luck

 

[pooker]

I ran an xtd stage 4 on mine, people say alot of bad things about the ebay clutch but it always held up fine. I took it out about 7500 miles after use and I think there was two little burn marks from many hard launches, and some brake cleaner easily fixed it and the machine shop said it did not need a resurfacing.

 

[red_devil]

Great information. Thanks

Have you decided on a clutch yet? Im looking for a simular clutch but with stock flywheel. Let us know what you go with

 

[kmoore]

Well, I already bought and received the clutch with Fidanza Flywheel last week. So, its a done deal.

^^^Yep I bought the Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch with Fidanza Flywheel. I also picked up a new OEM throw-out bearing, 3 quarts of MT-90 tranny Fluid, and a new SS clutch line.

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[kmoore]

I am getting it installed this Friday. I will let you know how it goes and how it feels

 

[spyderturbo007]

have never checked the car for crank walk (what you don't know, can't hurt you ).

And all this time I thought I was the only one......