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where are the turbo gods?

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Aproductions

10+ Year Contributor
2,123
50
Aug 11, 2009
Allentown, Pennsylvania
Last edited:
Reliability:

1. FP Green, TD06 20G, HTA68. They all use the same center housing.
4. G60



Airflow, rated by compressor ONLY (actual airflow generated is also determined by total hotside flow) :

1. G60
2. FP Green
3. HTA68
4. 20G


Spool:

1. HTA68
2. TD06 20G
3. FP Green / G60



Honestly, if you're looking at the Green and 20G, you'd be more than happy with the G50. There's no need for the additional lag the G60 will give over the G50, and the G50 is going to make more airflow at lower boost levels than the G60.
 
i think a
something around gt30 frame would be good for that power level and it wont have to work as hard to make that power as a 16g or 20 g would. im pretty sure fp has a turbo thats at gt30 with one of there bolt up hot sides​
 
thats out of my budget, the like the price of the SBRG60 but I am scared it will get over or under fed on oil and break, the fp green is nice but maybe too highin price, the 68hta is a good price, and I can't find a nice 20g with a tdo6
 
thats out of my budget, the like the price of the SBRG60 but I am scared it will get over or under fed on oil and break, the fp green is nice but maybe too highin price, the 68hta is a good price, and I can't find a nice 20g with a tdo6
I just noticed that FP has the 68HTA on sale right now for $849 shipped as opposed to the normal price of $925.
 
I heard people werent impressed with the 68hta.

anyways for new people reading, I wanna stay internally gated.

1. SBRG60...sensitive to oiling

2. FP Green....exspensive...but worth it?

3. 68HTA...like evo 316g?

4. Holset HX35...huge, but $500 + rebuild +bep housing and oil lines + external

5. 20g tdo6...exspensive...it this better in anyway than the fp green?

Thats the list now...so someone can help simplify that list and help me pick one already:)
 
If you think a 16g is gonna spool to fast for your front wheel drive then so will the hx35 in the bep housing. in my opinion you would be happy with something along the line of a bw256. granted its alittle out of your price range but it will get you what you want and allow for room to grow in the future. I have only heard of the bullseye power turbos having the problems of oil issues such as the v-trims. I personally have seen two go to crap in less than 500 miles on two different occasions.
 
4. Holset HX35...huge, but $500 + rebuild +bep housing and oil lines + external
Well you never mentioned the HX35 until now, so I figured it wasn't an option.

Where are you buying a HX35 core for $500? You should be able to buy two for that price.

The last Bullseye bolt-on housings I bought just a few weeks ago were around $275 a piece....so if you get a $250 HX35 that came from a running truck and happens to be in good enough shape to use, you'll have the complete turbo for $525.

Don't make oil lines seems like such a big deal....guess what you'd need to buy if you get the G50/G60? LOL

If you want proper boost control over 20psi on any turbo, it should be externally-gated. Internal gates work, but they don't work well. An external setup with the proper springs will not give you any issues with spikes or drops in boost.

So the only things you'd need to purchase to make the HX35 work that you wouldn't need with one of the other turbos (IF they're all internally-gated, I'm not sure if you can even buy the FP Green internally-gated) would be an external wastegate and an o2 housing to allow the external gate to fit.
 
I would have to disagree about the internally gated and 20psi comment. Look at the Evos...8/9 and 10. The 8/9 is at about 18psi from the factory. And they will run up to 27-28psi no problem. Yes they fall off in boost, but they aren't going to hold much more if they are externally gated. That has more to do with turbo effieciency than the wastegate. And the bigger stock frame turbos such as the FPred are holding 27-28psi to redline...if not more.

The FPgreen is a good turbo, but will have a little lag. It is easily capable of making that kind of power. It is pricey though. The holset should work just fine and as mentioned can be had for relatively cheap if you get lucky and find a good one from a running truck. No idea about the 68hta. The 16g should be able to do it with the right supporting mods. But you will probably be at it's limits...or very close anyway.
 
I would have to disagree about the internally gated and 20psi comment. Look at the Evos...8/9 and 10. The 8/9 is at about 18psi from the factory. And they will run up to 27-28psi no problem. Yes they fall off in boost, but they aren't going to hold much more if they are externally gated. That has more to do with turbo effieciency than the wastegate. And the bigger stock frame turbos such as the FPred are holding 27-28psi to redline...if not more.
Internally-gated twin-scroll turbos are a completely different ballgame; much less tendency to blow the flapper open, not to mention the spring in the Evo actuator is much stiffer than anything that comes installed on 14B / 16G turbos from the factory.
 
Agreed, but they do make a Forge w/g actuator for the 14b. And they also make one for the Evo. And the simple fact of the Evo turbo being larger helps it be able to maintain higher boost than the smaller "brother" snails.
 
Agreed, but they do make a Forge w/g actuator for the 14b.
Not many are going to run out and drop $200 on an upgraded actuator for a turbo that cost $600 new (Evo III 16G, for example)....but if you have some fabrications skills, you can improvise:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/tur...nternal-wastegate-actuator.html#post151717505

Keep in mind total holding power of the actuator spring is effected by flapper size; you can have a 20psi spring in your actuator hooked to a 34mm flapper which may open before 20psi because the flapper is so large. This would be the equivalent of opening an umbrella or throwing out a parachute in a windstorm.


The problem the O.P. may run into is that Bullseye Power charges more when you buy a HX35 turbine housing internally-gated, which is money that would be better-spent toward going external as the internal gate would never allow the turbo to perform at it's peak.
 
OP, what kind of fuel are you looking to run? What tuning aspects are you going with?

If your going with e85, I'd def. say 68hta. Before bolting on any turbo you should make sure you have the right supporting mods. With any of the turbo's you've mentioned, you are going to have to worry about oil, so it's no different for the hx35. And, as Justin stated, external is the way to go for superior boost control. Especially since any of the turbos you listed will hit their efficiency mark above 20psi.
 
evo 9 pistons on 7 bolt rods, 255hp pump, ecuflash, fuel lab fuel filter and afpr, I'm selling evo 8 injectors and evo 8 fuel pump, to get bigger injectors


So basically the g60 is off the list then, I don' t wanna blow it

how far will the 68hta take me?> farther than a e316g/


I can get a fp red for 900 from someone, or I can try and get a fp green..

the hx35 is rarer than I thought but if I can find one I would buy it and have it build with a bep housing and go external if I could for under $1000
 
Don't count out the H1C; the newest H1C's are essentially the same as the 8-blade HX35 and will generate enough airflow to max out the HX35 turbine in the DSM bolt-on turbine housing.

I scooped up a nice H1C core for under $200 recently; even with a rebuild and BEP housing you're shy of $650 for the turbo, leaving $350 to spend on the o2 housing and external gate.
 
well I don;t have that kind of luck, or 2 months to find it/. :cry:

can I get an opinion on a 68 hta or fp red for 900?


1. FP Green....exspensive...but worth it?

2. 68HTA...like evo 316g?

3. Holset HX35...huge, but $500 + rebuild +bep housing and oil lines + external

4. FP red ...I can get it for $900
 
wow go with hx35 or waste a ton of money trying to do the same. My friend just got it done here for 700 bucks got the whole set up and his car is CRAZY fast like i think the whole car is going to go back to 1974 to see the doc. And i bet he is hitting about 350whp on less then 20lbs.

You need hx35 which u can find for 250-400
t3 manifold with external wastegate which you will need for most of the turbos youve listed
good wastegate
new oil ine and return line
and custom 02 housing and downpipe

my friend did the whole thing for 700

150 for the turbo needed rebuild
50 for rebuild kit
100 for used cast iron turbo manifold with wastegate t3
100 for used wastegate a named brand something
300 for everything else but i guess he got it much cheap ###### 600 because he got full exhaust done as well
 
fp 68hta. This is what I would go with. English Racing ran 10.3 with this trubo! Much better than EVO 3. IMO. I run a tdo6 20g and love it, that said I am a big fan of the 68hta, this turbo is a winner- early spool and this thing will not fall on its face.
 
Since nobody replied about the FPred, I will do so. It's a very capable turbo. It will easily get you the power you want now with room to spare later on. There will be a little more lag than most of the other turbos, but it is probably capable of the highest max hp of any of the turbos you have listed. But that turbo moves some air, so again, I would say to go externally gated with it instead of using the internal gate.
 
4. FP red ...I can get it for $900
You're not going to be happy with a Red. I know two people who bought these turbos and quickly sold them because they were nothing like they thought they'd be on the street. They're a race-only turbo- lots of lag, not enough airflow to offset the lag at what could be considered "streetable" boost levels (20-25psi).

fp 68hta. This is what I would go with. English Racing ran 10.3 with this trubo! Much better than EVO 3. IMO.
Same car ran a 10.6 with an off-the-shelf Evo III 16G. Curt Brown has also gone 10.3 with an off-the-shelf Evo III, but you can't seriously expect to get anywhere near those kind of results with either turbo.

You really can't be giving your "IMO" on turbos you haven't run personally.
 
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