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Where are the FWDs at????

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Those 26'' mickeys swell a bit. I was only shifting at 8200, it spun pretty much all the way down the track. Hopefully Orlando SpinWorld will have the track preped up nice on sunday for the event. My very last pass I broke the driverside axle at the line. Funny thing was I replaced the passenger axle yesterday morning and thought about doing the driver side but said ehhh.

Note to ALL FWD, 2g stock axle's are about 26mm thick. GSP axles from Advance Auto Parts are 31mm thick, $60 bucks a pop, lifetime so when you break em' new ones for free. And in 7 Years of messing with Fwd's this was the first axle ive ever broke, PRE-LOAD!!!!

thanks for the advise man. whats your suspension setup looking like if you dont mind me asking :)
 
thanks for the advise man. whats your suspension setup looking like if you dont mind me asking :)

Front have kybs and tein s. Rear has kyb with a stock spring that I welded up so that I only have 1/2'' of travel. Its soft up front and some negitive camber (so when I launch and going down the track, it lifts and goes neutral) with stupid stiff in the rear. No secrets under my hood, ask away, it will only get faster every outing.
 
Sunday my first pass I went 11.4@100 I missed 4th and let off and coasted through the beams. Second pass I went 11.2@129. 3rd pass I missed 2nd and 3rd and still trapped a 12.8@128. 4th pass I went 11.7@103 I blew the dipstick oil got on the alt and the car started to break up. Then for the elemination rounds I didnt make a single pass, the oil fried the diodes in the alt, at idle I have 13.5 volts but as soon as you put a load on it dies. What a let down, whent home with my head down...... But I did learn alot about the car, I need to give it everything its got at the line, the first 330 feet is what makes the race.
 
Hey you live and learn Matt no worries make the needed adjustments and get back out there!
 
Getting ready to get my 99 gst on the road...she's been sleeping all winter due to complete transformation for summer :D

Just curious if anyone is running megan racing ez street coil overs, and if so, how do you like them(street wise and track wise)

Also, what times are people getting with a big 16g with full supporting mods and built head?
 
Those 26'' mickeys swell a bit. I was only shifting at 8200, it spun pretty much all the way down the track. Hopefully Orlando SpinWorld will have the track preped up nice on sunday for the event. My very last pass I broke the driverside axle at the line. Funny thing was I replaced the passenger axle yesterday morning and thought about doing the driver side but said ehhh.

Note to ALL FWD, 2g stock axle's are about 26mm thick. GSP axles from Advance Auto Parts are 31mm thick, $60 bucks a pop, lifetime so when you break em' new ones for free. And in 7 Years of messing with Fwd's this was the first axle ive ever broke, PRE-LOAD!!!!

You should just rev 3rd out through the traps. I rev my car out to about 8700-8800 in third and trapped 138.
 
Well, i haven't read all 60 pages in this thread, only the first 2 LOL. but, I for one, have a 4 cyl in my 98 gs, it's definitely not tuned out quite yet and nowhere near the 12's let alone 10's haha... I'll hopefully be running 11-12's within the next year, have alot of work planned, but i know my engine will be the main factor holding it back. :(
 
I will be getting my stroker running in a few days and am getting new axles like the ones stated above. who needs to spend 700 when you got a 2 year warranty. so for a little above 100 bucks you dont have to worry too much. I am sure I will break a few but doesnt take too long to change the axles.

On a side not anyone got any ideas what I should be running with a 2.3 set up evo3 16g 1000cc injectors fmic ect wityh slicks? I will be getting it tuned by a guy neer me that runs consistant 10's, so the tune should be good to go. I am just courious what I will be looking at. hoping for at least 12's and with a turbo upgrade and a few more goodies I would like to eventually break the 11's.
 
Bro that evo3 turbo can do 11s trust me.

I second that.

Richard33, Im going to rev her out the next time I take it to the track plus im going to get rid of the boost by gear and give it hell out of the hole. I hit 35psi in 2nd and threw the 75shot at it, didnt spin. I came out of the whole with 12psi@6k and seemed to not get anything better than a 1.76. Im going to up the boost to around 20psi for the launch and max 26psi for 1st gear and go up from there. Im going to cut some more weight and put the battery behind the front bumper, I bought a 3gallon fuel cell. Jayracing is on back order so cant relocate the alt just yet.
I cut my best light on sunday, .034 not to shabby.
 
I have not picked out any slicks yet, does anyone have any suggestions for a budget college student trying to turn pennies in to 11 second passes?
 
I second that.

Richard33, Im going to rev her out the next time I take it to the track plus im going to get rid of the boost by gear and give it hell out of the hole. I hit 35psi in 2nd and threw the 75shot at it, didnt spin. I came out of the whole with 12psi@6k and seemed to not get anything better than a 1.76. Im going to up the boost to around 20psi for the launch and max 26psi for 1st gear and go up from there. Im going to cut some more weight and put the battery behind the front bumper, I bought a 3gallon fuel cell. Jayracing is on back order so cant relocate the alt just yet.
I cut my best light on sunday, .034 not to shabby.

Ya you should be able to get lower than that 60ft wise. I launched at 5500 with no boost and was cutting 1.77-1.81s. The boost by gear really helped me out in 1st and 2nd but if you can put the power to the ground, go for it. I work out of state till september but when I get back I'm gonna make a trip up there to orlando with the car.
 
What do you guys use for boost by gear is that in tuning software or is that a seperate thing in its self?
 
Ya you should be able to get lower than that 60ft wise. I launched at 5500 with no boost and was cutting 1.77-1.81s. The boost by gear really helped me out in 1st and 2nd but if you can put the power to the ground, go for it. I work out of state till september but when I get back I'm gonna make a trip up there to orlando with the car.

I cut 1.70 flat. I think those mickeys stick stupid in 2nd. I keep looking at some of my time slips vs yours and Kevins and im either dead even with yall or one tenth quicker to the 1000ft. Im just going to rev it out in 3rd. I am also thinking of ways to limit how much the front lifts up durning launch. With the solid rear it kinda seesaws on itself. I want the only movement to be from the tire swell.
 
^^^or build a custom wheelie bar. It's the back dipping that lets the front raise so much. You need some stiff rear shocks/springs and have the car a little bit nose down. Then if the back dips just a hair, the car will level out. If it starts out level and the back end dips, then the front is nose up just a bit, getting the weight off the front tires.
 
OK guys I think somethings slowing me down between shifts when I'm at the track. This is the Modifications done to the car last time I had it on the track (I have done some upgrading since and I get back on the dyno for a tune next Tuesday):

Bolt-on Modifications:
JM Fab intake manifold, Large custom intercooler with special heat dissipating paint and 3" intercooler pipe leading to my mustang throttle body, FP3052 Turbo with all supporting upgrades (ie O2 housing...etc), N1 3" exhaust/downpipe(with all restrictions removed), 4" dejon tool intake pipe with K&N filter, aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator w/ guage, Walboro 255 rewired, FP Race exhaust Manifold, Devils Own meth injection w/ Dual DO10 nozzle...there may be more more but I cant think of it at the time....ill update when I think of more.

Engine Management:
SAFC II, MafT system with 3" GM mas, Stage 3 Dual Image Keydiver chip (93 oct/C16), Greddy profec B boost controller, Greddy turbo timer, autometer boost, EGT guage and Innovative wideband O2.

Engine Internals:
Mild Port and Polish 7 bolt head, FP2 Cams, adjustable cam gears, 780 fuel injectors, forged wiescos on crower rods. Balance shafts Eliminated.

Drivetrain Modifications:
Stage 2.5 TRE Tranny, ACT 2600 6 puck (was a street disk but was told I needed to switch so I did)

Suspension Modifications:
Eiboch Springs, Koni yellows all around, GSX brakes, 15" front Drag 5 spokes with Mickey Thomson Drag radials, Stock rims in the back with Eagle good year RSA's

This was from the Tune on the dyno....we either ran out of spring or the FP3052 only pushes 28 lbs of boost.
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WHP: 448.7 Max torque: 353.9

I have a lot of time slips that look like this.
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I know I am a bad driver but when good driver drive my car they have the same results.

Anyways Tuesday before my car hits the dyno for a Tune it will have the following things upgraded: The turbo is now an FP 3082HTA, New T1 saturated 1000cc injectors, removing the crappy short shifter and installing a stock shifter. Ill post the new dyno sheet next week and some times from the track when I get a chance to go.

Any advice to improve my slowness is welcomed :)
 

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So I finally got out to the quarter mile. I was having some issues on my first pass I tried the whole preloading thing but think the clutch overheated cause that run went horrible. After almost giving up and going home. i said one more wont hurt I ran a 13.64, with a 2.4 60'. So it got better so i took some air out of the tires and got my 60' down to 2.3 and ran a 13.6@108. This was my first time ever out with slicks. I think i did horrible. I was getting the same 60' in the 1/8th of a mile on street tires.

What are your guys techniques on slicks? From the burnout to preloading (where i think i was having problems). I was pulling the ebrake while letting the clutch out till it started to grab then bringing the rpm's up to the 2step. When green I would slip the clutch till it started going.
Do you guys see anything wrong with that? The tires are hoosier QTP's.
Thanks
 

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So I got some awesome news!! Tomorrow I pick up my new fwd dsm it's a 98 talon Tsi with 60,000. I am getting a ton of aftermarket parts and probably the best few things are. A Quaife LSD, 660 injectors, msd dis-2, some sick sbr 17" wheels, arp head studs, walbro 255 with afpr. Also a headgames fully built head and block just needs to all be assembled. Yet another back up motor for my gst. Most of the parts with go right on my gst hopefully before our next race on may 7. Some I will be selling or just sit on for future builds. I'll take some pics of my boys this week. I think it's safe to say I'm keeping dsm's alive here in Kauai,Hi. Lol
 
cant wait till i get my gst on the road, built motor is already assembled, just waiting to find a cherry picker and drop that sucker in...i was gonna run a pte 5031, but i found a guy that will trade me the pte for his hta68..so im goin that route see what i get out of the turbo
 
Hey got a question for you guys. Given my current setup and I'm putting in the quaife LSD this week hopefully what clutch would you recommend. I figured while I'm in there might as well replace. I was looking at an act 2100 with street disc or 2600 but would that be over kill. Also looking at the spec kits maybe stage 2. Thanks any input would be great. I'll be back t the track next weekend hopefully dipping into the 13's, Ive been tuning her more and seems like I got it tuned for 20.5 psi boost that should help.
 
Hey got a question for you guys. Given my current setup and I'm putting in the quaife LSD this week hopefully what clutch would you recommend. I figured while I'm in there might as well replace. I was looking at an act 2100 with street disc or 2600 but would that be over kill. Also looking at the spec kits maybe stage 2. Thanks any input would be great. I'll be back t the track next weekend hopefully dipping into the 13's, Ive been tuning her more and seems like I got it tuned for 20.5 psi boost that should help.

I would go with the 2600 just so you could have some room to grow. I would also look into the southbend clutch I've heard a lot of good things about them. I would also look at investing in some slicks for the track, they will make a huge difference and help out with wheel hop.
 
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