Where are the FWDs at????

[fwdeclipse]

Glad to see there are still some guys giving FWD a chance. I had to convert to the dark side recently so I am no longer FWD but it was deffinately a blast while it lasted. Keep up the good work guys.

Just curious how long did it take you to do the swap to AWD.Or did you just go buy a GSX.Just wondering how much work there actually is.I know its pretty in depth just wondering how much exactly.I had a AWD 3 years ago and sold it for a FWD so I would stop breaking the trans.It did not really matter though cause ive already exploded a diff in my FWD.

 

[13secondGST]

Well guys its been a long time since i posted on this forums but i just took my car last night to the track and was a little dissapointed. First race off was a 14.1 at 110 mph pass. I was like that cant be but i really bogged and pulled a 2.5 60ft. Gave another try this time on the antilag and for the luck i have i blazed all first gear and bogged a little in second managed to bring my 60ft down to a 2.1. Manage to run a 12.9 at 112mph I was a little excited their cause i knew i could manege a better time. I went ahead again and saw that one of my slicks was running out of air and still ran on low pressure and manage only a 13.7 at 110mph bogging like crasy too. But maybe next time i can see better et's. Now i need stiffer suspension in the back the car squats alot in the back when i launch. I think thats keeping me from getting good launches. Ive got a kaaz lsd and slicks I think i should be at least on a 1.8 60ft but maybe next time. Oh by the way guys this was done on a 95gst built 6bolt stock head just cams, precision 6152e magnus intake, slowboy front mount and all supporting mods. Only boosting 21-22 psi on pump gas. My tune is still not the best but its getting their. Hope fully next time i can add race gas and more psi.

 

[98eclipseRS]

Just curious how long did it take you to do the swap to AWD.Or did you just go buy a GSX.Just wondering how much work there actually is.I know its pretty in depth just wondering how much exactly.I had a AWD 3 years ago and sold it for a FWD so I would stop breaking the trans.It did not really matter though cause ive already exploded a diff in my FWD.

The easier way would have to bought an AWD car but I had to much invested into my car to do that, so I did the swap. The swap took ALOT of man hours, nothing about doing it is hard its just very time consuming as there is alot of work to do.

As far as the swap goes there is alot to do i am working on a write up but its taking longer than expected due to time shortages with everything else I have going on. I'll pm you later for more details.

 

[fastaseagle]

im still giving it a chance. went 11.8 at 124 last year going bigger fuel setup and more boost this year.

 

[coltboostin]

im still giving it a chance. went 11.8 at 124 last year going bigger fuel setup and more boost this year.

That you toopsie?

 

[Raph]

where can i get 16"slicks??????? i can find 15 " easy but no 16"..then there the crazy expensive 17" and 18" for sprint cars.. arrgh!

and they have to be 16" because i got Huge brakes on that sucker (my 15" stock spare tire didnt fit, so i need 16" - im gonna use 16" steelies off a Hyundai Santa Fe..theyre wide)


can anyone recommend a center force Dual Friction cLutch (from personal experience.. i dont want a ACT)

 

[DSMcamaro]

can anyone recommend a center force Dual Friction cLutch (from personal experience.. i dont want a ACT)

I have a CFDF, works great.

 

[daren_p]

I have the CFDF as well, ran it all last summer & so far its been great. Just make sure you break it in properly. As for tires are slicks or DOT drag radials harder on the trans & half shafts? I wouldn't mind getting a set just to get my time down where it should be for the power Im making but I don't want to take out a tranny or shaft doing it. Seems like the majority say a 24" slick is fine with a stock setup? Do people still break parts with these? I haven't checked into it much yet but I will probably have to stick to a 17" rim becasue of my big brake kit, though the caliper is fairly compact so I may get away with 16's. What are good cheep rims to run, I would imagine I'd want something with an 8" width. Are there other factory rims that are a bolt on? Seems some run the RX7 rims with spacers.

 

[awddynamite]

I didn't experiment alot but I found that having my lanch control set at 3250 rpms worked failry well, didn't bog out & didn't create all that much wheel spin if I was careful. missouri_dsm, that makes sense what your saying about the tires with low sidewalls, I'll have to try the burn out test to see what the contact patch looks like. To tell you the truth the lower tires pressure seemed to help my 60 ft times. I don't know if it was all in my head or I was just gettin more use to lanching the car at the track with much less traction compared to the street but at 20 psi I was running consistant 2.3's while my times were higher running more pressure. I started off at 25, then 22 then 20.

awddynamite, looks like your running the stock tranny & half shafts? How do they hold up with the slicks, is breaking things an issue?

yes i am still on the stock tranny, diff and axles, they seem fine even after over a year of abuse and the only time ive broken anything it has been on the street with DR's.

 

[Raph]

i had a dream last night..

how about BFG profiler g / or g /force KD or KDWs on the street(215/45/17)

and BFG drag radials on the track? (i found em cheap in 225/50/16)

i heard the bfg drag radials work well.. do these break things in fwds?

 

[missouri_dsm]

i had a dream last night..

how about BFG profiler g / or g /force KD or KDWs on the street(215/45/17)

and BFG drag radials on the track? (i found em cheap in 225/50/16)

i heard the bfg drag radials work well.. do these break things in fwds?

BFG drag radials are great. Not prone to breaking stuff. Not saying they wont break stuff, just saying they shouldnt. I have never broke anything with them.

 

[Venom55]

Drag radial are good, but if you comapre them to Real ''slick'' its night and day difference. I run MT 26'' slicks and it world wonder.

 

[kmoore]

Do any of you guys have any suggestion on slicks on a lowered car, with a Baer Big brake kit, and fit a 17" rim? I looking for some slicks but I have my car lowered and I have Baer brakes up front and i need the 17" rim to clear the brakes and I can't have them rub. Thanks

 

[Venom55]

Do any of you guys have any suggestion on slicks on a lowered car, with a Baer Big brake kit, and fit a 17" rim? I looking for some slicks but I have my car lowered and I have Baer brakes up front and i need the 17" rim to clear the brakes and I can't have them rub. Thanks

I have bear kit on may car and the only thing I have found is to get the baer off and put back my 1G brake when going to drag.

Nothingm ore we can do about it, it sucks

 

[kmoore]

Well, there is no way i'm taking off the brakes for a few hours at the track. For one i don't have the front stock brakes and two there is no way that i am taking off the Baers to put on stockers for a few hours. Is there no other option? I appreciate the help but isn't there an easier way?

 

[Venom55]

Well, there is no way i'm taking off the brakes for a few hours at the track. For one i don't have the front stock brakes and two there is no way that i am taking off the Baers to put on stockers for a few hours. Is there no other option? I appreciate the help but isn't there an easier way?

Well it look like it the only thing I found to do when racing. I know its sucks but I have no other choice. Never been ble to find 17 incher slick anywhere.

 

[daren_p]

Hmm I was wondering the exact same thing, I have a Wilwood kit with 12.2" rotors & the caliper is pretty compact, diameter wise. So I know 17's will work but I need to see if some 16" wheels will work. Im too thinking about some DOT drag radials or slicks for the track just so I don't have to post that I run 13.5 @ 120 mph with the new turbo . I haven't searched around yet but would there be slick options for 16" wheels? Which is harder on the driveline & more likely to break things a drag radial or slick?

 

[2DaTrakNow]

Hmm I was wondering the exact same thing, I have a Wilwood kit with 12.2" rotors & the caliper is pretty compact, diameter wise. So I know 17's will work but I need to see if some 16" wheels will work. Im too thinking about some DOT drag radials or slicks for the track just so I don't have to post that I run 13.5 @ 120 mph with the new turbo . I haven't searched around yet but would there be slick options for 16" wheels? Which is harder on the driveline & more likely to break things a drag radial or slick?

slicks by far! Like somebody said earlier, its night and day between the two. Drag radials have some give to them which takes quite a bit off your driveline, depending on how long and toasty your burn out it, slicks might not have any give!

Here's a good way to look at it.(and all of my numbers are just for example)
1. picture a 3000 lb car sitting there at 0 mph
2. imagine that your tires/slicks are basically being stuck to the pavement
3. your motor that has app. 250. ft/lb of torque is ready to go crazy

Put all of those together and think about it, your tires don't want to move because they are "glued" to the pavement, plus they have 3000 lbs sitting on top of them. The're stuck!!! However, your raging motor is ready to go and is sending out as much power that it can. What is caught in the middle???

YOUR TRANNY!!! It has no movement on one side, and 5,000 rpms on the other! Obviously your take off will be better with the slicks, but your tranny and clutch would love you if you gave them some give with drag radials.

Plus...there is just so much more bragging rights with street tires. You put on slicks, now you basically have a "race only" car. You cant legally drive the car home, or on the streets. Just the drag strip!!! If you have drag radials, you have a street car.

Me personally would rather have a 12.5 second daily driver street car over a 12 second drag car!

 

[daren_p]

Well I know that slicks would be harder on the driveline since they have much less slip but my thoughts about drag radials is I was thinking you could still get wheel hop with these & cause some damage? I know wheel hop is notorious for exploding differentials but Im running a Quaife so I don't have to worry about that. Can a good amount of wheel hop also destroy other driveline components or does it mainly effect the diff? If I did run slicks I wouldn't lanch at a super high rpm & just dump the clutch. Probably around the 4000-4500 mark & slip the clutch out. This is why I was wondering if the slicks might not be so bad since they shouldn't hop.

 

[2DaTrakNow]

Well I know that slicks would be harder on the driveline since they have much less slip but my thoughts about drag radials is I was thinking you could still get wheel hop with these & cause some damage? I know wheel hop is notorious for exploding differentials but Im running a Quaife so I don't have to worry about that. Can a good amount of wheel hop also destroy other driveline components or does it mainly effect the diff? If I did run slicks I wouldn't lanch at a super high rpm & just dump the clutch. Probably around the 4000-4500 mark & slip the clutch out. This is why I was wondering if the slicks might not be so bad since they shouldn't hop.

Honestly I am not sure about the wheel hop with drag radials. I have never seen them hop, but im sure they will have a better chance at hopping than slicks. If you are worried about hopping, either choice would be good, but slicks might be a better bet.

When I look at it though, slicks will always be hard on your whole driveline. Drag radials will only be hard on your car when you start hopping, and if you play your clutch right, and have different motor mounts you shouldn't hop.

Plus you just have more bragging rights on street tires/drag radials!!!!

 

[daren_p]

Personally I wouldn't call slicks on a fwd a "race only car", not sure if you've ever ran at the track but traction at the track defently isn't what it is on the street. I don't know if it was just the day since it was so cold when I went to the track my first time this past fall but traction was horrible. Any time I tried to get on it in 1st or 2nd I would get massive wheel hop (street tires) & would also get massive hop in 2nd around 5500 rpms every run, even when I was feather it. I never once have gotten wheel hop on the street & traction isn't an issue in second & not bad with some foot control in first. If your still running full weight, street boost, pump gas etc in a fwd even with slicks I still think of that more as street trim since the slicks are just basically matching the awd advantage. Granted saying you ran a completely street setup fwd fast at the track sounds more impressive then a full race prepped one, but with true street tires this will be very hard to do & adding more power just makes things harder.

I ran high 13's on my street tires but had the same mph as the awd & rwd with slicks/drag radials that ran in the high 12's. So what is more impressive 13.9 @ 106.2 with street tires or 12.9 @ 106.2 with slicks? Lots of people just look at the time & say your cars not making much power, when its the mph which tells you the whole story on whats going on, especially in a fwd. Most overlook this, so IMO the time with slicks sounds more impressive to most people. I tend to think or both slicks & drag radials as the same thing & neither as a "street tire"

Either way my new street tires that I'll be running next spring should help me out even at the track. I think even on street tires the evoIII had some mid to low 13's in it with street trim, if I had everything working properly. Guess I won't know as I'll be swapping to the 3052 this spring when the car comes out of storage & am planning on going to the track again to see what kind of times I can run with it. With strim trim & tires Im thinking mid to low 13's shouldn't be too hard & should pick up a good amount on the mph. If I get slick/drag radials I don't think mid to low 12's should be to much of a problem but only time will tell.

 

[blackifre22]

slicks are easier on driveline parts than a normal radial tire...they are softer on launching, they have more give therefor less shock on driveline.... if you launch with enough wheelspin you wont have any probs for the mostpart with breaking stuff....

wheelhop will kill any diff it doesnt care who made it or how much it costs

 

[2DaTrakNow]

Personally I wouldn't call slicks on a fwd a "race only car", not sure if you've ever ran at the track but traction at the track defently isn't what it is on the street. I don't know if it was just the day since it was so cold when I went to the track my first time this past fall but traction was horrible. Any time I tried to get on it in 1st or 2nd I would get massive wheel hop (street tires) & would also get massive hop in 2nd around 5500 rpms every run, even when I was feather it. I never once have gotten wheel hop on the street & traction isn't an issue in second & not bad with some foot control in first. If your still running full weight, street boost, pump gas etc in a fwd even with slicks I still think of that more as street trim since the slicks are just basically matching the awd advantage. Granted saying you ran a completely street setup fwd fast at the track sounds more impressive then a full race prepped one, but with true street tires this will be very hard to do & adding more power just makes things harder.

I ran high 13's on my street tires but had the same mph as the awd & rwd with slicks/drag radials that ran in the high 12's. So what is more impressive 13.9 @ 106.2 with street tires or 12.9 @ 106.2 with slicks? Lots of people just look at the time & say your cars not making much power, when its the mph which tells you the whole story on whats going on, especially in a fwd. Most overlook this, so IMO the time with slicks sounds more impressive to most people. I tend to think or both slicks & drag radials as the same thing & neither as a "street tire"

I see where you are coming from. Just around here if you get a good time on slicks, some people will laugh and say "yeah...you had to have slicks to run that time, why can't you just drive your car off the street and do it?" But I will have to agree with you when you said that traction and wheel hop is a lot worse on the track, than on the street.

 

[bulletboost]

I feel your pain. There are no fwd's that are trying to go fast around here except for me. It's kinda cool being the only one though. I think it's just easier for people to buy an AWD and go faster. Whereas buying a FWD it takes more work and practice to run good times. I myself got tired of all the AWD's running 12's and 13's so easily, so i threw on some slicks and a 14b and started hanging with them.

I am a nother one who is trying to make the 95 FWD go 12 o lower i put clucht 4 punk with spring act pressure plate and flywheel, sparco intercooler 1G blow off cosmetic head gasket, light damper, eagle rod and wiseco piston, blance shaft eliminated, Turbo To3To4 Turbonetic, stainless steel manifold, tial wastegate, apexi msd inyector 850 fuel pump walbro 255 hp for regulator 1 on 1, Kevlar timming belt 4" intake , 3" downpipe oil press, boost and pyrometer gauge crower cams, aem cams pulley let see how this work

 

[awddynamite]

i have NEVER broke any driveline parts with slicks in any car i have raced or owned ( and trust me i have owned and driven many many cars) but i have gone through 3 trannies on my fwd dsm i have now and all trannies have gone out on the street with my NITTO DR's, and to answer why i need slicks at the track, how about BECAUSE I CAN AFFORD THEM AND SPINNING THROUGH 1ST 2ND 3RD AND 4TH GEAR IS REALLY NOT THAT FUN, thats why i always race from a roll on the street. nothing like a little 60 to 150 run with supra's, vette's, viper's, lambo's, gt3 porche, ferrari's, etc etc etc ohh i like the reaction from it.
WHAT MOTOR IS IT, IS IT A 6 BOLT OR A 7 BOLT MOTOR, (ME) IT IS A 8 BOLT. THEY ARE LIKE THAT MUST BE AN UPGRADE, IM LIKE NO IT IS A NEON MOTOR AND MOST OF THEM ARE LIKE WHY WOULD YOU DO THAT SWAP. HAHAHA HEHEHE
AND THIS IS MY SLOW CAR!!