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ECMlink When do I need DSMLink/ECMLink?

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Dylan94

Proven Member
35
5
Sep 2, 2024
W, West Virginia
Ok, so I’m starting my next build and I’ve never tuned anything.

My question is what can I do performance wise before I actually need to invest in DSMLink and start getting a tune? I know a tune will always help any mods we do. But what is the actual limit of the factory 99 GST ECU before the car no longer runs/runs like poo?

Thanks!

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Have I got the thread for you my friend. https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/2g-dsm-upgrade-paths.486217/

Specifically this one:


Realistically you can turn up the boost a bit, the T-25 doesn't have much more in it than stock especially with a SMIC. I personally would do the free mods, make sure it's spic and span mechanically and start saving early for link if you plan on doing any major mods (larger turbo etc) with the car.

Since you have a 99 you CAN use it with "ceddymods" by simply buying a tactrix cable, but it's very unsupported these days (I did the whole ceddymods thing before caving to DSMLink and it's so much easier). I think now that I've used link a fair amount, I could tune my car on Evoscan/ECUFlash on the factory black box but I would not recommend it to start.
 
Back in 04 when I first got my Talon I had a few upgrades like Dejon intercooler piping, intake, RSR exhaust and a TurboXS MBC. I was able to get up to 18psi on the stock ECU before hitting fuel cut. If I were to do it again I would of just got DSMLink aka ECMLink from the start.
 
Basic bolt on's and a few more pounds of boost. Very quickly they hit boost cut on stock ECU. Like you know it's a good idea right off the bat anyway. The stock "tune" for a 2g is very rich target air fuel so that's why it can take bit more boost and still be safe there. The timing is not overly aggressive either for stock turbo and some bolt on's.
 
Thank you guys!

So basically bolt on’s are good to go. And a tiny bit more boost. But once I change the fuel up at all I’ll need it. And to get past around 18psi I’ll need it. My plans as of right now are to start with the manifold and turbo. It’s already got a 3” exhaust on it. I may buy a bigger turbo and keep the boost turned down low till I can get ECMLink. I don’t have the first idea or understanding when it comes to tuning so I’m trying to stay away from it till I absolutely have to!
 
Tuning is not some big, bad scary beast. You will become a much better hot rodder when you embrace it.

That being said, it should be one of your first upgrades. After having tuned numerous black box ECU’s, I wouldn’t waste my time. I honestly think it is a terrible solution and is very lacking and leaves a lot on the table.

It is still a shock to me that Evo’s are able to do what they can with it.

Spend the few hundred dollars on DSMLink and you and your car will be better for it.
 
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Tuning is not some big, bad scary beast. You will become a much better hot rodder when you embrace it.
I do plan on learning to tune and getting DSMLink in the future. I just plan on taking it as far as I can before that. I don’t have a lot of money to play with and my biggest fear is messing the ECU up to where I have to pay to get it fixed
 
I do plan on learning to tune and getting DSMLink in the future. I just plan on taking it as far as I can before that. I don’t have a lot of money to play with and my biggest fear is messing the ECU up to where I have to pay to get it fixed
You won't mess up the ECU with mods in terms of hardware damage (barring a physical issue like shorting it out). Be much more mindful of your engine.

An AFR gauge should be up top on your list as well. I personally run an AEM but many people have had issues with link with it and ECMTuning recommends Innovate.

And a boost gauge, you don't need it yet but you will and it's fun :).
 
Sooner than later is my opinion. Data and control are the two best features of ECMLink. I'm a big believer in data driven decision making. - saves you time - saves you from going in the wrong direction - builds confidence in your setup.

Helps one to focus our squirrel like attention spans on the parts that matter, vs the parts that are shiny.

Justin
 
I do plan on learning to tune and getting DSMLink in the future. I just plan on taking it as far as I can before that. I don’t have a lot of money to play with and my biggest fear is messing the ECU up to where I have to pay to get it fixed
You literally cannot get anywhere without a solid tuning solution. An AFC will get a a little ways but, doesn’t offer any timing control and in fact INFLATES the timing which is very bad in a forced induction application.

You want bigger injectors, that immediately puts you into some kind of tuning needed. And 450’s won’t get you anywhere at all as far as fuel delivery and boost allowed.

Unless you want to stick with a stock performing vehicle or a TD05 based turbo at like 15psi, spend the money.
 
Ok then, so my next part of the question. I have what I believe is a 95 Eclipse (not sure of model) ECU. After I have it socketed with DSMLink. Would it be a plug and play application with my 99 GST wire harness?
 
Ok then, so my next part of the question. I have what I believe is a 95 Eclipse (not sure of model) ECU. After I have it socketed with DSMLink. Would it be a plug and play application with my 99 GST wire harness?
If it is indeed a gold 95 EPROM, all you would have to do is change the firing order of the plug wires.
 
It’s the metal one. I know the black box is a spare spyder ecu

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Looks like a plastic paper weight and the correct EPROM to me.

The E on the bottom right of the sticker is your answer.

Open it to verify the board has not been swapped out with something else to confirm. It is a thing.
 
Open that ECU and if its an EPROM congrats, jackpot. Then all you need to do is order DSMLink.


Do not worry about the drop down menus for injectors and MAF type drop down menu items. It is all adjustable via DSMLink and makes no difference at the purchase point. Once you purchase link you'll get access to the ECMTuning forums as well which has a ton of info for tuning.
 
Looks like a plastic paper weight and the correct EPROM to me.

The E on the bottom right of the sticker is your answer.

Open it to verify the board has not been swapped out with something else to confirm. It is a thing.

Open that ECU and if its an EPROM congrats, jackpot. Then all you need to do is order DSMLink.



Do not worry about the drop down menus for injectors and MAF type drop down menu items. It is all adjustable via DSMLink and makes no difference at the purchase point. Once you purchase link you'll get access to the ECMTuning forums as well which has a ton of info for tuning.
I opened corner of it (two screws were pretty tight and stripped) and I'm 99% sure it had a chip that said E something on the corner of it. The guy I got the car off of just seemed like he didn't want to do the work on it cause he had two spare engines and a lot of parts. so I'm pretty sure its a legit ECU. What I'll do is get the car running with the rebuilt engine, and then swap this one out with the stock ECU I know works and see if it runs. If so good deal.
 
For basic mods and if you didn't already have potentially an EPROM ECU, the 98/99 flashable ECUs are great for simple mods like 14B on more than 14lbs, or 16g/20G.


But ECMLink not only is easy AF, it's SO widely supported and the logger is infinitely better. So to answer the thread title, I'd say ASAP. As long as you buy and install a wideband at the same time.
 
Wideband and MAP sensors are essential additions. With DSMLink, WB and MAP, you can run most any config - up until - you get to the point where the MAF is overrun (flowing more air than it can report) You will be making 350-400 HP by that point.
 
I opened corner of it (two screws were pretty tight and stripped) and im 99% sure it had a chip that said Esomething on the corner of it. the guy i got the car off of just seemed like he didnt want to do the work on it cause he had two spare engines and a lot of parts. so im pretty sure its a legit ECU. what ill do is get the car running with the rebuilt engine, and then swap this one out with the stock ECU i know works and see if it runs. if so good deal.
I had to drill out two screws on one of my ECUs. I set it up in a vice, a shop vac to catch all the metal shavings, and the right sized drill bit. Vice grips might work too.
 
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