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ECMlink 2g DSMLink tuning issues!!!

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You wouldn't think a rewired 190 would over run a stock fpr. But it is still a possibility like Justin mentioned.
 
What does the WBO2 do if you just sit in the driveway and let the car idle? I was getting very irratic readings only to find out that when I installed the ported O2 sensor housing, I forgot to fully tighten the DP. Duh!!!

Might be an exhaust leak pre-sensor.
 
I'm also going to vote that you have a leak somewhere. From the several .dat files I looked at, they look pretty normal. The huge variance is most likely do to something screwy in the system. Also, for shits, I get rid of aemwbgauger1 and use dynojetwb instead. me and turbotaloon have had really good luck using that instead of the aem settings.
 
I think you need to slow down and zero everything out. You have your global set up for your injectors, but you are adding a buttload of fuel throughout the rpm. Are you just banking on the logger readings being 100% correct from your AEMWB? I would eyeball the actual gauge during a pull, you'll be surprised that the dsmlink reading is probably a full point or so leaner than you think. again, IMO, zero your fuel/timing sliders back out and go do a pull. eyeball your AEMWB and i bet that thing will peg at 10.0:1. start decreasing fuel (don't even bother logging, tune with just your gauge) until the wb starts reading in the 10.1-10.8 region.
 
I've done boost leak tests and my intake setup is fine... I haven't touched my exhaust since I did my HG and when I put everything on it was fine. I never hear any exhaust leaks. I'll check that out though... Also, what is the difference between my open WG and an exhaust leak pre-wb02?
 
I do watch the gauge all the time, it does go into the 11's and 12's at times like DSMLink is logging...

The first time I ever tried tuning with DSMLink, it went very well. I didn't even touch fuel, I left it zero'd out. AFR stayed in the 10's and I was advancing timing geting up to 20 degrees of timing up top... Then next time I tried I was adding fuel to keep it in the 10's...
 
I just have the stock regulator, no gauge. The fuel was rich with everything 0'd out on the first tune. I'm probably gonna try to tun again tonight...
 
Totally going throug the car again.. tightned up all couplers again just to make sure, did multiple boost leak tests... Found a somewhat small, but audible boost leak at the first throttle body gasket, fixed it. Found a small exhaust leak at the external wastegate on manifold. Fixed. Found a very very small leak at the BOV that I'm going to fix. I should have everything solid and be tuning again Wed...
 
Ok.. fixed a nice leak at my upper I/C pipe to throttle body and a smaller leak at my bov. I fixed an exhaust leak at my wastegate and checked the rest of the exhaust for exhaust leaks....


Went for pulls... I left timing and fuel at zero. I did a pull, I got around 3 counts of knock starting at around 5k and going till around 6.5k. I added one click of fuel that range and pulled one degree of timing through the range. I did another pull and this time it was going fine and when I got around 4.5k it ran lean (around 13.3, both dsmlink and gauge showed it).. and then at 6.4k I peaked out at around 5.7 counts of knock. I thought I had the logs, but my friend wasn't pressing the right key :|. I am out of ideas! What do I do?
 
I'm at a loss, it seems that you're problem is a specific thing, so I can't offer specific advice. I think you need to start over from the basics and tune from there. Do all boost leak tests to 25-30 psi (don't cheat yourself), get a timing light and verify base timing, log o2 voltage during a run, rewire your fuel pump. then start all over with ltft/stft tuning.
 
I replaced my FPR with another stock FPR that I had laying around. I went out and did a few 3rd gear pulls. AFRs SEEMED to be staying in the 10's, although it could have just been a fluke... No knock above 3 counts (my CEL never came on, have it set for 3 counts). I'm going to try to do some more pulls tonight. I'll post my results...
 
Did some tuning last night. Left fuel at zero and worked on timing. Got timing up a bit. I'm really starting to think my wideband is way off. On a 5th gear pull, when I pull with boost part throttle (wastegate still closed) the wideband reads very rich, but then when I floor it and the wastegate opens it starts to read lean. I'm really starting to think the wastegate throws everything off.
 
How far is the o2 sensor from the manifold? Do you have the bung welded at an angle as the instructions demonstrate?

I can't see how it would read lean after the gate opens. It's not like it's drawing fresh air IN through the wastegate, or the gate is totally diverting exhaust flow.
 
Here's a quick way to test if your sensor is ok:

sit in the car and turn your key to ON, but don't fire up the car. watch the wideband, it should do a series of regular codes and then start rich in the afr's and then gradually (within 30 seconds-1 min) start getting leaner and leaner. It should go all the way lean until it reads - - - which is free air. lmk if it does that.
 
I will try that, I have my wideband installed in my secondary (after-cat) o2 sensor location... I will try that test, but I'm pretty sure my wideband does that, I'll check it out.
 
I figured i'd chime in and say that my wideband does exactly what tom described, but i am still suffering from irratic a/f ratio's just like the op. Sometimes i'll be at like 10%throttle, and the wideband pegs richWTFOthertimes it's fine. I also did a pull the other day. I had my a/f ratio dialed in at11.1:1, and for some reason it went way lean. Like12-13:1. I dont get it.
 
Sounds like we're in the same boat.. very close setup too... Only thing is I'm externally gated..
 
George just told me about it on AIM and I saw the IM when I woke up... It was too late and then I wasn't sure what was gonna happen with the rain... I would have gone if I knew..

I have a new bottle of Seafoam laying around, I might try that... I checked for leaks couldn't find any. If there are I'll def see it with seafoam..
 
I checked the other day with Seafoam and found that my exhaust manifold has a small crack and it was leaking a lot at the gasket in between the manifold and turbo. Ordered up a new manifold already. But does anyone know how to get those thick SS gaskets to seal right? The old gasket I used to have sealed fine, but it was messed up when I took it off during the head gasket and now I have this thing, but it doesn't seal...
 
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