The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

what goes good with dsmlink

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

A wide band and some one who knows what they are doing when it comes to tuning. It's not a begginers game at thtat point. You can learn it but read, read, read ebfore you start changing settings and adjusting fuel and timing. Then keep an eye on the wideband and start tuning. Tune teh free rev areas first, thenn move to light load and so forth untill you reached teh wide open throttle settings..then tune at your lowest boost possible get that dialed in erfectly and move up by about 4 lbs and start tuning again. Work in small encriments untill full boost is tuned then "fine tune" al teh little areas that will pop up causing you small hic-ups here and there.

There's a reason that some one experienced can tune a car from scratch in about 1-4 hours and a first timer could take days to get a program starting from nothing. At least the DSMlink is setup to where you can get a jump start since it's meant for a DSM and not just auniversal stand alone.
 
The AEM Uego seems to be a fine Wide band setup and DSMlink can log it's output directly. I personally am a much bigger fan of the Zeitronix wide band systems. This is my second time today recommending them (I need to hit them up for a jobLOL).
 
Here is a list of wbo2 kits and map sensors that work with DSMlink. Notice that the LM-1/LC-1 does take a few changes to get to work with DSMlink.


Wideband O2 kits

* AEM with and without gauge
* DynoJet
* FJO
* Innovate LM-1 & LC-1 (see note)
* PLX M-series
* Techedge v1 and v2
* Zeitronix ZT-2
* NGK AFX

LM1/LC1 note - These have programmable outputs. Which means there is no "standard" display conversion format. So what we suggest you do is to program the output to mimic another device that we do support. Typically this would be the linear TechEdge output that has 9:1 mapped to 0v and 19:1 mapped to 5v. Then you would datalog this as the linear TechEdge (TEWBLin).



Boost pressure sensors

* AVCR 3 and 4-bar
* GM 3 and 3.3-bar
* AEM 3.5 and 5-bar
* ApexEL series
* Greddy 52mm and 60mm
* Turbo XS sensors


Other things that can be logged in DSMlink include: Autometer fuel and oil pressure, GM / AEM intake air temperature sensors, and Apex'I EL EGT.

An IAT sensor would be particularly helpful with a maf-t setup. This is because when using a GM maf you can no longer see what your intake temperatures are. The stock maf reports the temperature to the ecu, but the maf-t reports out a constant 80* temperature. Although the IAT won't really help you get a good tune, it does provide good information to keep track of.




All of these components are easy to wire up so you can log them through DSMlink. On a 2g you potentially have 4 available inputs on the ecu.

1. Rear O2 (ECU Pin 75)
2. MDP (ECU Pin 73)
3. Baro (ECU Pin 85)* -- Only usable when using MAFT with "Ignore IAT/Baro" selected. Has internal pull down resistor making it unsuitable for certain sensors. (see quote below)
4. IAT (ECU Pin 72) -- Only usable when using MAFT with "Ignore IAT/Baro" selected.

When using something like a MAF translator that allows using dsmlink's Ignore IAT/Baro feature, the ECU's baro sensor input can be used for some aftermarket sensor such as a MAP sensor or a wideband O2 sensor. However, the baro input of the 2G ECU may not be compatible with the aftermarket sensor.

The 2G ECU has a 3.3K ohm pull-down resistor (R39). This may put more load on the sensor than it can tolerate and still put out a proper signal. For example, a GM 3-bar sensor can only drive this input to 1.76 volts at maximum pressure. The new Delphi sensor seems to have a bit lower output impedance and will drive the 2G baro input to a little higher voltage at maximum sensor pressure, but it's still unsuitable.

Short of removing R39 from the ECU, the 2G baro input is suitable for use only with very low impedance sensors (even a 50-ohm output impedance will produce a little over 1% of voltage offset). Since most sensor designs have a resistor in series with its output for protection, the 2G ECU's baro sensor input is probably not suitable for use with most sensors.


Here is an example of what my brother and I installed in his car.

AEM 5 bar map sensor:
Red - ECU Pin 81 (Green w/yellow stripe)
Green - ECU Pin 73 (Light Green w/black stripe)
Black - Ground

AEM IAT sensor:
Black - ECU Pin 72 (Red/blue)
Black - Ground
(It doesn't matter which wire gets grounded or goes to the ECU)

Innovate LC-1 Wbo2:
Brown - ECU Pin 75 (white)
Red - Accessory power supply
Blue + white - Grounded using same crimp ring
Yellow - not used
Black - not used

Innovate XD-16 gauge:
Red - Accessory power supply
Black - Ground

This link shows all of the ECU wires: http://vfaq.com/mods/ecu-harness-2G.html
 
and once you've gotten all that figured out, step up to bigger injectors and a bigger turbo.
 
I have to disagree that you NEED a wideband to get a great tune w/ dsmlink. You will see knock (timing retard) long before you will lean out enough to actually lose power. . . But, you will be in the dark about where you're a/f ratio is so that you can begin tuning your timing. You will see much more results w/ timing advance.

If you are SURE about how much fuel you have (% IDC, plenty of pump, proper fuel pressure, a maf that can read your peak airflow), then you can lean out some fuel 5-10%; as the stock fuel curve ends at 9.4:1. If you see no timing retard, then move over to the timing sliders and get the most bang for your effort. It won't be the absolute best tune. But, it will be just fine for the street and pump gas.
 
I have to disagree that you NEED a wideband to get a great tune w/ dsmlink. You will see knock (timing retard) long before you will lean out enough to actually lose power. . . But, you will be in the dark about where you're a/f ratio is so that you can begin tuning your timing. You will see much more results w/ timing advance.

If you are SURE about how much fuel you have (% IDC, plenty of pump, proper fuel pressure, a maf that can read your peak airflow), then you can lean out some fuel 5-10%; as the stock fuel curve ends at 9.4:1. If you see no timing retard, then move over to the timing sliders and get the most bang for your effort. It won't be the absolute best tune. But, it will be just fine for the street and pump gas.

Wouldn't tuning on finnicky knock-prone pump gas require a more immaculate tune than say C16? I'd think that while tuning on pump gas you'd want every bit of information available, including something like actual AFR.

What you say does make sense though--I'm just wondering what comments you have about this.
 
Wouldn't tuning on finnicky knock-prone pump gas require a more immaculate tune than say C16? I'd think that while tuning on pump gas you'd want every bit of information available, including something like actual AFR.

What you say does make sense though--I'm just wondering what comments you have about this.

Yes. Pump gas is a pain to tune. But! More knock is seen from timing advance than lean a/f ratio. That's one reason why the Mitsubishi ecu manufacturers dialed in timing retard when sensing knock. It is BEST to know everything. But, a good, fun, quite PRODUCTIVE tune can be achieved w/out a wideband.
 
but there's another input that 1g guys use but I cant remember Rear 02 I think but Im not sure.

The only input 1g's can use is EGR temp which is pin 15. If they run a GM MAF-T setup, then they can also use baro input (pin 16) and IAT input (pin 8).

All of the information is coming from:
start [ECMTuning - wiki]
 
The only input 1g's can use is EGR temp which is pin 15. If they run a GM MAF-T setup, then they can also use baro input (pin 16) and IAT input (pin 8).

All of the information is coming from:
start [ECMTuning - wiki]

And more specifically from these sites, for those who can't navigate the wiki by themselves:

installnewsensor [ECMTuning - wiki]
externalsensorinstall [ECMTuning - wiki]
externalsensorinput [ECMTuning - wiki]
externalsensorlist [ECMTuning - wiki]
ecuwiringinformation [ECMTuning - wiki]
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top