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Not hard but interior had to come out to get headliner out so that can get to the 4 bolts for hinges and the wiring harness which winds up connecting behind the rear seat side plastics. It was quite heavy to pull off and on, and the hinges have to stay on the correct sides they are not reversible. But in all fairness I did replace it by myself just a bit heavy LOL. Probably took 2 hours taking my time, but I havent put headliner back in as redoing mine, along with the interior plastics and seats
 
How hard was it to swap hatches? I have a 1g that a tree limb broke my glass but I have a donor car.

I did it on my Talon by myself. Prop it up even if you have working hatch struts with a couple broom sticks, and gradually loosen the top bolts for the hatch after you take off the struts. The hatch isn't all that heavy even with glass. A second hand definitely makes it easier, but it's doable by yourself.

Just make sure you take the time to line the hatch up on the bottom. Even with a good weather seal, if you don't get the gaps perfect on either side, the hatch will leak into the bottom of the hatch itself. Ask me how I know. ROFL
 
Arrived today mocking its up waiting on 38mm waste gate to install on my erl cast manifold.

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I don't know how obsessed you are with dialing in your suspension properly, but I took the time to remove the springs on my BCs so I could measure the full articulation and set them up "ideally" and as it turned out mine were pretty much right on straight out of the box so it was kind of a waste of time, but now I know. I would guess yours are the same so you can just fine tune ride height.
 
My rear bumper was full of dirt and rust and weighed one million pounds. Since this is still a street car I didn't want to completely eliminate the bumper bar, but I did want to lighten it up a bit. I also wanted to be able to properly mount the bumper cover still using all the OEM connection points.

So out came the cutting wheel. I basically cut away anything that wasn't needed, as this part of the bumper wouldn't be doing the "bumping" anymore.

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To give it back its strength I added a piece of 1.75" .120 wall thickness square tubing with some rivnuts to attach it to the bumper shocks. Once that was done I gave everything the standard wire wheel/sanding/degreasing treatment and then everything got a coat of rust encapsulating paint.

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Here's how the bottom of the car looks currently. Now it's time to do the front.

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My rear bumper was full of dirt and rust and weighed one million pounds. Since this is still a street car I didn't want to completely eliminate the bumper bar, but I did want to lighten it up a bit. I also wanted to be able to properly mount the bumper cover still using all the OEM connection points.

So out came the cutting wheel. I basically cut away anything that wasn't needed, as this part of the bumper wouldn't be doing the "bumping" anymore.

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To give it back its strength I added a piece of 1.75" .120 wall thickness square tubing with some rivnuts to attach it to the bumper shocks. Once that was done I gave everything the standard wire wheel/sanding/degreasing treatment and then everything got a coat of rust encapsulating paint.

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Here's how the bottom of the car looks currently. Now it's time to do the front.

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WOW beautiful work man congratulations BTW I'm s that a Megan racing 3"exhaust cat back

My rear bumper was full of dirt and rust and weighed one million pounds. Since this is still a street car I didn't want to completely eliminate the bumper bar, but I did want to lighten it up a bit. I also wanted to be able to properly mount the bumper cover still using all the OEM connection points.

So out came the cutting wheel. I basically cut away anything that wasn't needed, as this part of the bumper wouldn't be doing the "bumping" anymore.

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To give it back its strength I added a piece of 1.75" .120 wall thickness square tubing with some rivnuts to attach it to the bumper shocks. Once that was done I gave everything the standard wire wheel/sanding/degreasing treatment and then everything got a coat of rust encapsulating paint.

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Here's how the bottom of the car looks currently. Now it's time to do the front.

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I'm having the same problem with my rear bumper hopefully I believe I find one almost brand new
 
It sounds good. Surprisingly quiet, in a good way. Though I did add a high-flow cat to mine which definitely contributes to the reduced noise.

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My rear bumper was full of dirt and rust and weighed one million pounds. Since this is still a street car I didn't want to completely eliminate the bumper bar, but I did want to lighten it up a bit. I also wanted to be able to properly mount the bumper cover still using all the OEM connection points.

So out came the cutting wheel. I basically cut away anything that wasn't needed, as this part of the bumper wouldn't be doing the "bumping" anymore.

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To give it back its strength I added a piece of 1.75" .120 wall thickness square tubing with some rivnuts to attach it to the bumper shocks. Once that was done I gave everything the standard wire wheel/sanding/degreasing treatment and then everything got a coat of rust encapsulating paint.

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Here's how the bottom of the car looks currently. Now it's time to do the front.

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I have a question for you man where did you get those Red polyurethane Red dust cap first time I seen it on a DSM man your suspension looks fantastic WOW

It sounds good. Surprisingly quiet, in a good way. Though I did add a high-flow cat to mine which definitely contributes to the reduced noise.

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Nice brother I don't mean to sound like a copycat I bought the same flowmaster 3" universal catalytic converter 200 cells I believe

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Looking forward to getting this flange as well to be able to remove the cat in case of any service needs done
 

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I have a question for you man where did you get those Red polyurethane Red dust cap first time I seen it on a DSM man your suspension looks fantastic WOW
These:

Same ones needed front and rear.
 
Well it's been a good 6 months since being capable of making any real progress on the car but this week I put an empty spare block and head in the car while mine is off to the machine shop so I can finish fabbing intercooler piping and finalize the turbo manifold, more updates to come!

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Got the original rear carrier bearing pulled finally.
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Next up this tail shaft will get converted to a 1310 series u joint, and a new carrier bearing😊

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I was curious so I removed my modified bumper and weighed it this weekend: 25 pounds including the shocks.

However, when I went to install the bumper I ran into an issue when I realized the square tube I added did not actually clear the reverse lights like I had hoped it would. I made the decision to convert the single large tube into two smaller bumperettes. Not quite as much protection but enough to not make me too nervous driving it on the street.

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Total weight of the bumper now is 20 pounds, so looks like a 12 pound net loss or so.

And with that, that back half of the car is complete for now and it looks like a fully assembled car again.

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WHY DID THEY THINK THE REAR BUMPER NEEDS SO MANY BOLTS!?!
 

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Got my 1310 series yokes from driveshaftparts.com, the tale shaft is now at my local driveshaft shop getting ready to go under the knife for the upgrade:rocks:
So what flange do you order that mates up with the factory diff?
 
I was curious so I removed my modified bumper and weighed it this weekend: 25 pounds including the shocks.

However, when I went to install the bumper I ran into an issue when I realized the square tube I added did not actually clear the reverse lights like I had hoped it would. I made the decision to convert the single large tube into two smaller bumperettes. Not quite as much protection but enough to not make me too nervous driving it on the street.

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Total weight of the bumper now is 20 pounds, so looks like a 12 pound net loss or so.

And with that, that back half of the car is complete for now and it looks like a fully assembled car again.

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WHY DID THEY THINK THE REAR BUMPER NEEDS SO MANY BOLTS!?!
Beautiful 1GA man not too crazy about the exhaust but I guess I'll get used to it I guess is the angle it seats hey as long as is functional is ok

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Got my 1310 series yokes from driveshaftparts.com, the tale shaft is now at my local driveshaft shop getting ready to go under the knife for the upgrade:rocks:
What's the reason for the replacement just curious more horsepower or because those parts are no longer available

Just bought a bunch of little stuff for sake keeping trying to have everything I need double our cars are reaching 40 years old lots of parts are pretty hard to come by

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