What did you do to your DSM today?

[Moneypit91]

Hung the Gtx3584rs, cc design manifold and raven fab water pipe. Almost ready to drop it in.

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[r3dmak]

Working on the cabin wiring, mainly adding auxilary gauges to get more accurate readings. I was thinking about placing them on the pillar, but didn't like obscured view plus the gauge pod would needed to be painted to match tan interior. So I mocked up their placement in the glove box mimicking old school japaneese style.

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[92AWDHX40]

Working on harness hopes to fix leaks. Start her up soon

 

[CrackedDSM]

Successfully installed working A/C back into a car that hasn’t had it probably in 15 years or more.

STOKED.

 

[shdwmsk]

I have oxidized single stage black paint on my Talon & going to use the Poppy's Clear also. I'm curious how or what (if anything) did you do to prepare your red paint before applying the Clear Coat? For example did you cut / buff just the paint to shine it up before applying the clear coat? Thanks!

Nothing spectacular. Ran it through a good car wash, then lightly hit it with a scotch-brite gray pad soaked in wax and grease remover. that was just to take any loose bits off.
Few places was sprayed with duplicolor code matched spray paint from O'Reilly's, matched perfectly. Left it dry overnight before spraying Poppy's. It did eat away at some rock chips I painted over with a different brand paint pen though.

If I was to do it over again, I think I would rather use a cheep 2k clear. Did same amount of work using Poppy's vs a 2k, but I think the Poppy's is softer and will show micro scratches alot more. I went with Poppy's more for a test since was only fixing the clear coat. I plan on repainting the entire car in the future, so I did not do any body work other then paint correction in one area.

If I get time, I will add more detailed photos in my build thread this weekend.

 

[SixBolt_16G]

Tried removing the bolts for the upper knuckle bushings... The nuts came off on both sides fairly easy, but of course i cant do anything on this car without one side being a problem... The bolt on the drivers side seems to be seized in the sleeve, so everytime i twist the bolt, i can see the rubber twist along with it ....always something.....

So im sitting at my office pouting about it until i get back home and try again

 

[SAUBIK]

I made working prototype of the selected gear indicator

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[SAUBIK]

Preview of the incomplete project - ECLIPSE EVOLUTION

It is in my native language, so i dont know, if subtitles will work, so try to watch, i said alot usefull info about project and what was done

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[cswindel]

Well I stated the car up again to let it idle in the garage once more. No but it was really to further troubleshoot why my tachometer isn't putting out a RPM reading. I have a thread going on it right now so wont go into detail. Only other small problem I am still dealing with is a small oil leak that is on the timing cover under the crank pulley. I have pulled off the timing cover and just saw oil around where the oil pan meets the front case. So what did I do? I resealed the oil pan and still have the same leak once the car gets to operating temp. Man i hope its not something like the front main seal...Im about to say screw it and drive it. Its been 2 1/2 years and still haven't driven it

 

[Deebeaux]

I spent three hours cleaning the shop and stacking up all the parts that need to go on the car. Mostly rear suspension components. In theory I'm only these suspension parts, an alignment, and a transfer case output seal from starting the shakedown cruises and see what else is needed. (Probably an oil pan, because nothing seems to make the turbo drain stop leaking.)

 

[92AWDHX40]

Pulled my brakes off gonna blast them and paint. Redoing my line's to hard one's

 

[diambo4life]

Working on the cabin wiring, mainly adding auxilary gauges to get more accurate readings. I was thinking about placing them on the pillar, but didn't like obscured view plus the gauge pod would needed to be painted to match tan interior. So I mocked up their placement in the glove box mimicking old school japaneese style.

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Hi, I say this not trying to be a smartass or a jerk, but how useful are monitoring gauges that are in the glovebox compartment? Heck it's difficult to keep an eye on A-pillar gauges while making hits, how do you expect to watch those gauges unless you're parked? I am just questioning the practicality of it.

 

[CrackedDSM]

More A/C work. Added a few more oz of freon to it, and adjusted belt tension in an attempt to fight a supercharger whine. Turns out, its probably the A/C tensioner bearing itself.

I am probably just gonna live with a supercharged sounding turbo DSM. No idea if they even make replacement bearings for it still.

 

[19Eclipse90]

1G Replace the AC Tensioner Pulley Bearing

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Started both the Red and the Blue Talons to give them some run time. I wish I hadn't had my quad accident, it has hampered working on cars, A LOT. 'Tis life I guess. Hoping the body will feel better sometime so I can get more stuff done!

 

[r3dmak]

Hi, I say this not trying to be a smartass or a jerk, but how useful are monitoring gauges that are in the glovebox compartment? Heck it's difficult to keep an eye on A-pillar gauges while making hits, how do you expect to watch those gauges unless you're parked? I am just questioning the practicality of it.

It will be ok for my oem plus build, where I probably look at them once or twice. Now the practical way would be to replace oem cluster with digital or custom one, but then sky's the limit.

 

[DreamChaser7]

Well I stated the car up again to let it idle in the garage once more. No but it was really to further troubleshoot why my tachometer isn't putting out a RPM reading. I have a thread going on it right now so wont go into detail. Only other small problem I am still dealing with is a small oil leak that is on the timing cover under the crank pulley. I have pulled off the timing cover and just saw oil around where the oil pan meets the front case. So what did I do? I resealed the oil pan and still have the same leak once the car gets to operating temp. Man i hope its not something like the front main seal...Im about to say screw it and drive it. Its been 2 1/2 years and still haven't driven it

24 years and counting here bro…

 

[99dsmer4g63]

Well I stated the car up again to let it idle in the garage once more. No but it was really to further troubleshoot why my tachometer isn't putting out a RPM reading. I have a thread going on it right now so wont go into detail. Only other small problem I am still dealing with is a small oil leak that is on the timing cover under the crank pulley. I have pulled off the timing cover and just saw oil around where the oil pan meets the front case. So what did I do? I resealed the oil pan and still have the same leak once the car gets to operating temp. Man i hope its not something like the front main seal...Im about to say screw it and drive it. Its been 2 1/2 years and still haven't driven it

Some things that come to mind to check.

1. Cam seals and the cam caps on the ends. I put a small dab on each outside corner of the cap before installing them.

2. The one bolt on a 7 bolt tensioner arm bracket intersects with an oil galley in the block. This one bolt should have some sealant when installing it.

3. The bolt/bolts for the hydraulic timing tensioner should also have some sealant on the threads before installing.

4. The bolt that holds the BS belt tensioner should be in place and well some sealant on the threads wouldn’t hurt either.

They have cheap UV oil dye at big box auto parts stores usually as well.

Good luck
Daniel

 

[cswindel]

Some things that come to mind to check.

1. Cam seals and the cam caps on the ends. I put a small dab on each outside corner of the cap before installing them.

2. The one bolt on a 7 bolt tensioner arm bracket intersects with an oil galley in the block. This one bolt should have some sealant when installing it.

3. The bolt/bolts for the hydraulic timing tensioner should also have some sealant on the threads before installing.

4. The bolt that holds the BS belt tensioner should be in place and well some sealant on the threads wouldn’t hurt either.

They have cheap UV oil dye at big box auto parts stores usually as well.

Good luck
Daniel

I'm praying its something simple and not like the front main seal or the front case itself. I'm just gonna take the front timing cover off and run the car without it to see if I can visually see the leak and where it originates

 

[Dannyrampage1]

Hung the Gtx3584rs, cc design manifold and raven fab water pipe. Almost ready to drop it in.

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WOW is pretty much my same setup except that I went with Morrison Fabrications turbo manifold recirculate down pipe I also got the funk turbo and wastegate blankets and the Raven fabrication water pipe with heater and turbo cooling for my Garrett GT3583R water cooled DBB banjo bolts and stainless steel lines everything great setup man congrats

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[CrackedDSM]

Replaced the bearing in my A/C tensioner, and found a loose clamp which was causing my hilarious supercharger whine issue. Fixed that, and went for a cruise.


I cannot explain to you guys how surreal this is for me. I have never had a DSM with working A/C, and I've never had a DSM as good as this one. Driving it around town, it just feels like your normal 90's car. It has an old, but not bad smell. The FM radio works and plays in the background. You can faintly hear the exhaust, but it's pleasant. Not ricer-tastic. And above all, the A/C blowing cool enough to fog the bottom of the outside of your front windshield(and RIP to your glasses when you get out of the car).

Legitimately never in my wildest dreams thought this would happen this way. And I did all the physical work to this car myself, but it runs all because of you guys here with your knowledge, advice, and help.

Damn. We did it boys.

 

[diambo4life]

Hell yeah. Never had one that had working AC.

 

[Dannyrampage1]

I just got a Megan Racing 3" cat back to go along with my Megan Racing 3" down pipe now I need is universal 300 to 400 cells high flow catalytic converter with stainless steel 2 bolts flanges so it can be welded it accordingly so I can have a full 3" turbo back exhaust can't wait to get my car completely restored

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[stealthee]

I've done a whole lot of nothing to any of my cars recently. I have been working a ton of hours so even when I have time off I have other things to catch up on. The good thing is it is letting put more money back for when I finally do have time.

We have a move coming up at work. It's literally next door, but there are a lot of things in the works that I am directly responsible for. I'm literally going to be responsible for physically moving 100% of the warehouse inventory. I'll have to pull from the warehouse location, stage for loading, load it onto a box truck at our current building, drive it next door, then unload it and put it into its new home, then do the next load. Also will be handling movement of some production floor stuff too.

We're hoping to add onto our team in the next few months, but it probably won't even happen til we are almost done with the move. But it will help ease my daily burden once it happens because I have already "claimed" the new hire since I already do too much. The rest of my team agrees.

 

[Capt Obvious]

I just got a Megan Racing 3" cat back to go along with my Megan Racing 3" down pipe now I need is universal 300 to 400 cells high flow catalytic converter with stainless steel 2 bolts flanges so it can be welded it accordingly so I can have a full 3" turbo back exhaust can't wait to get my car completely restored

I recommend the Flowmaster 200-cell cats: https://www.flowmastermufflers.com/products/exhaust/catalytic_converters/parts/2000130

They have a metallic core so they will hold up with the heat of a turbocharged car.

You don't need flanges on it, just cut off the end of the downpipe and extend it a few inches (you'll need a few inches of extra 3" stainless pipe) to meet up with the catback.

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One thing to keep in mind is that the Megan downpipe and catback don't perfectly align, there is an offset between them that you need to account for:

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