What did you do to your DSM today?

[cswindel]

Well i am now super duper confused about my oil leak under the crank pulley. Just as some background I did address this issue before as I have re-sealed the oil pan thinking that was the leak. Well here we are, still leaking. Reason I am confused is because I just took the timing cover off and the front case area looks SPOTLESS. Nowhere can I see any indication of oil streak, seepage, etc EXCEPT from the exact same place as last time...THE OIL PAN. I swear if I have to drop the pan again, the car is gonna get pushed into on-coming traffic. Ill have to put the crank pulley and alternator belt on and run the car to confirm but the car's fate isnt looking good so far. Pray for me and the car

 

[pauleyman]

Another DSM on a tow truck. Got in to go home, voltage spikes to 17- 18 volts. Low RPM it was manageable. Made it about 5 miles before it was uncontrollable and I had to park and tow.

 

[Imback]

I let me friend drive my galant since we have been facing so many little issues getting his back up and running. I gave him the keys and he came back 30 mins later with a smile on his face and telling me he left a 6 pack on my seat . Sometimes someone just needs a little motivation to get the drive again to get there project going.

 

[cswindel]

Im still so confused. I have triple checked and the only thing I can reason without starting the car to verify is its the oil pan in the same spot. I've attached a video and if someone could message me if you have an idea to not bog down this thread but no joke this is what I've been doing on my DSM and troubleshooting the tachometer for like 2 weeks now. As a note, I did use just RTV the first time I sealed the oil pan and I wanted to try a new method so no its not because I'm using cork with RTV

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[stealthee]

I let me friend drive my galant since we have been facing so many little issues getting his back up and running. I gave him the keys and he came back 30 mins later with a smile on his face and telling me he left a 6 pack on my seat . Sometimes someone just needs a little motivation to get the drive again to get there project going.

I stopped at my buddy's shop to not only catch up and see what was happening, but to also hope to get motivated to get some stuff done on my cars.

Only the tuner was there, but he was just getting ready to fire up a meth car on a FT600, so I stuck around for that. Just hearing a 4G63 running like that got my heart going a little. Maybe tomorrow I might work on, not the DSM, but the 3000GT.

 

[Imback]

I stopped at my buddy's shop to not only catch up and see what was happening, but to also hope to get motivated to get some stuff done on my cars.

Only the tuner was there, but he was just getting ready to fire up a meth car on a FT600, so I stuck around for that. Just hearing a 4G63 running like that got my heart going a little. Maybe tomorrow I might work on, not the DSM, but the 3000GT.

A little motivation goes a long way.

 

[2GbTalonGuy]

What did I do to my DSM today? I bought it. I’m back in the game!

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[SAUBIK]

I now trying to fine tune the eeprom chip, but i need stock 2G EB23C XDF file to identify exact locations of the maps, so if anybody have stored in your computer old Ceddys tune files, it can helps me alot, because ceddy is inactive and his page with links are dead, Yahoo groups are dead too thank you in advance

 

[pieceofcloth]

I now trying to fine tune the eeprom chip, but i need stock 2G EB23C XDF file to identify exact locations of the maps, so if anybody have stored in your computer old Ceddys tune files, it can helps me alot, because ceddy is inactive and his page with links are dead, Yahoo groups are dead too thank you in advance

There is an archive website that has files people have been saving for years. I'd hope one day files for things like this, will be stored on there as well.

Im still so confused. I have triple checked and the only thing I can reason without starting the car to verify is its the oil pan in the same spot. I've attached a video and if someone could message me if you have an idea to not bog down this thread but no joke this is what I've been doing on my DSM and troubleshooting the tachometer for like 2 weeks now. As a note, I did use just RTV the first time I sealed the oil pan and I wanted to try a new method so no its not because I'm using cork with RTV

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Message sent

 

[TerminalTalon]

along with organizing the garage and cleaning I decided to give ol’ girl some love. Just doing some fitment things and routing the wiring harness. I have too much stuff.

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[Dannyrampage1]

I recommend the Flowmaster 200-cell cats: https://www.flowmastermufflers.com/products/exhaust/catalytic_converters/parts/2000130

They have a metallic core so they will hold up with the heat of a turbocharged car.

You don't need flanges on it, just cut off the end of the downpipe and extend it a few inches (you'll need a few inches of extra 3" stainless pipe) to meet up with the catback.

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One thing to keep in mind is that the Megan downpipe and catback don't perfectly align, there is an offset between them that you need to account for:

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Great work man keep us posted thank you for posting the work on your car I already have 3" Megan Racing Down Pipe and I just bought a Megan Racing 3" cat back and the biggest thing was catalytic converter you just bought is a 200 cell and is compliant with 49 states plus high flow

 

[Dannyrampage1]

Well i am now super duper confused about my oil leak under the crank pulley. Just as some background I did address this issue before as I have re-sealed the oil pan thinking that was the leak. Well here we are, still leaking. Reason I am confused is because I just took the timing cover off and the front case area looks SPOTLESS. Nowhere can I see any indication of oil streak, seepage, etc EXCEPT from the exact same place as last time...THE OIL PAN. I swear if I have to drop the pan again, the car is gonna get pushed into on-coming traffic. Ill have to put the crank pulley and alternator belt on and run the car to confirm but the car's fate isnt looking good so far. Pray for me and the car

Hey brother are you sure your oil pan doesn't have niddle hole leak anything is possible

 

[SAUBIK]

There is an archive website that has files people have been saving for years. I'd hope one day files for things like this, will be stored on there as well.

I found something, but ceddys eb23c_v2.xdf download page is not available even with archive, so if anybody see this post, please share to anybody, i need that FILE so much

I made a whole thread here to not spam This one https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/i-need-ceddys-eb23c_v2-xdf.549243/#post-153948822

So if you have anything to tell, please

 

[cswindel]

Hey brother are you sure your oil pan doesn't have niddle hole leak anything is possible

I think I have found the source of the leak but I appreciate the suggestion! Now I'm just wondering if i have too much deflection with my timing belt on the idler pulley side and why my hydraulic tensioner is bottomed out

 

[pieceofcloth]

I think I have found the source of the leak but I appreciate the suggestion! Now I'm just wondering if i have too much deflection with my timing belt on the idler pulley side and why my hydraulic tensioner is bottomed

When your engine rotates, there are some "tight" spots and some "looser" spots on the belt. Since you ran your engine recently, maybe it's on the loose end.

Use a a half inch ratchet, rotate the engine to TDC & check if it's to spec again

 

[cswindel]

When your engine rotates, there are some "tight" spots and some "looser" spots on the belt. Since you ran your engine recently, maybe it's on the loose end.

Use a a half inch ratchet, rotate the engine to TDC & check if it's to spec again

Good gravy man I think you're on to something! I didnt even consider that. It was late and I was just all over the place with the "while I have it apart" mentality

 

[Justin DuBois]

I like the tensioner pin method - where you leave the pin in, set the tensioner pulley position, rotate the engine a few times, and then check the pin. If the pin slides in the hole without binding you can leave the tensioner position as is. If the pin binds, reset the pulley position and try again.

 

[cswindel]

I like the tensioner pin method - where you leave the pin in, set the tensioner pulley position, rotate the engine a few times, and then check the pin. If the pin slides in the hole without binding you can leave the tensioner position as is. If the pin binds, reset the pulley position and try again.

Yeah I used that method when I did the timing a second time while it was on the stand and I checked it throughout the build before putting it in the car and all was well. I'm gonna put cylinder 1 at TDC and check the tensioner after it sits in that position. Thank you all for the support/help throughout the build!

 

[ty4g63t]

Put in a clutch masters clutch now gotta do the boring break in period. Seems like forever since i just recieved my fp red uhf and just waiting for the o2 with external dump from morrison fab. Next will be send a trans into jacks and a tune by tedspec

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[Canadian_CD9A]

I haven’t given the Evo any thought lately and haven’t spent a dime on it in months, but I received my pair of mock-up wheels from Japan today that I ordered in May. They are a 16x8 +45 SSR Type-C in 4x114.3, the bathroom scale says 13.0 lbs each. They will need roughly 10-12mm of spacer to clear the Cobalt SS Brembos (on a modified 296mm Juke rotor that is still 5x114.3). I really don’t know what I learned from this other than the fact that I bought a pair of moderately priced lightweight wheels that don't have 'ideal' fitment. I probably should get 16x8 +35s instead but they’re hard to find.

I have the parts to go 5x114.3 and would prefer to do that instead of keeping my 4x114.3 hubs on and re-drilling the rotors, but a set of 16x8 +35 SSRs in 5x114.3 would be egregiously expensive, and the boat has sailed on my dream set of 16x8 +35 Regamaster Evos. In all, I guess accomplished very little here. Time to not do anything for another 6 months.

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[CrackedDSM]

I haven’t given the Evo any thought lately and haven’t spent a dime on it in months, but I received my pair of mock-up wheels from Japan today that I ordered in May. They are a 16x8 +45 SSR Type-C in 4x114.3, the bathroom scale says 13.0 lbs each. They will need roughly 10-12mm of spacer to clear the Cobalt SS Brembos (on a modified 296mm Juke rotor that is still 5x114.3). I really don’t know what I learned from this other than the fact that I bought a pair of moderately priced lightweight wheels that don't have 'ideal' fitment. I probably should get 16x8 +35s instead but they’re hard to find.

I have the parts to go 5x114.3 and would prefer to do that instead of keeping my 4x114.3 hubs on and re-drilling the rotors, but a set of 16x8 +35 SSRs in 5x114.3 would be egregiously expensive, and the boat has sailed on my dream set of 16x8 +35 Regamaster Evos. In all, I guess accomplished very little here. Time to not do anything for another 6 months.

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W-t-f I can’t fap to this. Now I’m sad.

 

[Canadian_CD9A]

W-t-f I can’t fap to this. Now I’m sad.

Dodge Neons bring joy instead. I'll be at the dyno in 12 hours with it making 150 angry (but joyful) neon horsepowers.

 

[tristanGSR]

I haven’t given the Evo any thought lately and haven’t spent a dime on it in months, but I received my pair of mock-up wheels from Japan today that I ordered in May. They are a 16x8 +45 SSR Type-C in 4x114.3, the bathroom scale says 13.0 lbs each. They will need roughly 10-12mm of spacer to clear the Cobalt SS Brembos (on a modified 296mm Juke rotor that is still 5x114.3). I really don’t know what I learned from this other than the fact that I bought a pair of moderately priced lightweight wheels that don't have 'ideal' fitment. I probably should get 16x8 +35s instead but they’re hard to find.

I have the parts to go 5x114.3 and would prefer to do that instead of keeping my 4x114.3 hubs on and re-drilling the rotors, but a set of 16x8 +35 SSRs in 5x114.3 would be egregiously expensive, and the boat has sailed on my dream set of 16x8 +35 Regamaster Evos. In all, I guess accomplished very little here. Time to not do anything for another 6 months.

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That seems aggressive fitment wise on an early evo! I run 17x7 +40 on 205/45 slicks and they like to touch the rolled rear fenders and front fender liners a bunch on trackdays. Did you pull your fenders or run overs?

 

[Canadian_CD9A]

That seems aggressive fitment wise on an early evo! I run 17x7 +40 on 205/45 slicks and they like to touch the rolled rear fenders and front fender liners a bunch on trackdays. Did you pull your fenders or run overs?

The quarter lips on my car were already rolled when I got it 17 years ago. I have 17x7 +35 with 215/45R17s on it now, it sits real low and clears. This will be a shorter tire (215/45R16) and would sit more or less the same out back with a 10mm spacer.

 

[diambo4life]

Im still so confused. I have triple checked and the only thing I can reason without starting the car to verify is its the oil pan in the same spot. I've attached a video and if someone could message me if you have an idea to not bog down this thread but no joke this is what I've been doing on my DSM and troubleshooting the tachometer for like 2 weeks now. As a note, I did use just RTV the first time I sealed the oil pan and I wanted to try a new method so no its not because I'm using cork with RTV

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You need to remove that cork BS, reclean the oil pan mating surfaces and use BLACK RTV. Apply evenly, torque it about 90% then let it cure overnight for 24 hours. Then go back and add the remaining 10%. Then you can add your engine oil and start it up. Make sure your oil pan flange is flat all the way around.