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I haven't put the head on yet so I can try the WD40 and see how it works as a test fluid. I also have kerosene from recently cleaning my bike chain so could try that as well but would be a bit messy with the film it leaves behind. Nothing bad but it's a weird texture. Been a little wrapped around the axle, per usual with most things, about my oil pan. Diving in the weeds of all the info/opinions out there lead me on the hunt for a dent free oil pan that has been impossible to find (unless I pay 250-300 for a new one). I'm trying to get this build as right as possible so it worries me to run the one I've got knowing it COULD cause issues. Although I'm sure there are people out there, regardless of vehicle platform, running pans worse than mine with no issues and I'm just paranoid about foaming oil or some other symptom

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Probably not what you want to hear, but just buy a new one. I've run pans dented worse than that, but the peace of mind you get from a fresh, brand new item is second to none.

If I could go back in time and tell my younger DSMer self one thing about these cars, it would be "stop f*cking around with beat up used stuff, get brand new while you can." So worth it.
 
Probably not what you want to hear, but just buy a new one. I've run pans dented worse than that, but the peace of mind you get from a fresh, brand new item is second to none.

If I could go back in time and tell my younger DSMer self one thing about these cars, it would be "stop f*cking around with beat up used stuff, get brand new while you can." So worth it.
No I do appreciate it because I have been leaning towards just pulling the trigger. Throughout the whole build I've been replacing what I can and what I don't feel confident in. Shoot I replaced the rear case bolts that only see a torque value of 7 ft-lbs or so. I have been as meticulous as possible without going over board but I've been asking myself why stop at the oil pan. Just haven't bought it yet but probably will at this rate. I'll save the one I got and try to repair it. Thank you again for the input.
 
Just grab a new one and be done with it ive run worse and i have ocd, but looking at my dsm lately you would think wtf. Its sucks there isnt much oem parts available for this platform.
 
Change out the spark plugs NGK I had the store looked them up. I think they gave me the wrong ones I’m not too sure I need somebody to confirm. NGK Iradium IX BPR6EIX 6637. And I’m trying to figure out if the spark plug gap is the same. For the recommend (BPR7ES) which is in no local store by me only online order they don’t carry them in the stores✔️ 0.028 to 0.031 inches (0.7 to 0.8 mm) I hope the ones I got are compatible and can use the same number of gap I just posted above. I just noticed the tips of them are really thin rather than the thick solid ones on the BPR7ES.

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Should I return these and get the correct ones because I have to order online if that’s the case. If these won’t work for a cold start.

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You can't gap those plugs. Get regular copper NGK plugs. The parts store number for 7's is NGK #5534. I attached the file with the part numbers for the different heat ranges.

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You can't gap those plugs. Get regular copper NGK plugs. The parts store number for 7's is NGK #5534. I attached the file with the part numbers for the different heat ranges.

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Excellent thank you!! I’m gonna try to return those.
 
Started revamping my front suspension. Ball joints and energy bushings. Also cleaned the arm and sprayed under coating.

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You can't gap those plugs. Get regular copper NGK plugs. The parts store number for 7's is NGK #5534. I attached the file with the part numbers for the different heat ranges.

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You actually can gap them, I run the 9 heat range iridium and have them gapped to 0.020, you just need a proper gap too that only pushes on the strap.
 
I agree but it's a fragile plug tip and don't want to advise it.
 
I agree but it's a fragile plug tip and don't want to advise it.
Definitely not by smashing them on something solid like the old school coppers but I've gapped 3-4 sets of them so far and haven't hurt one yet. I just use one of these cheap screw in gappers

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Definitely not by smashing them on something solid like the old school coppers but I've gapped 3-4 sets of them so far and haven't hurt one yet. I just use one of these cheap screw in gappers

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Now that's a cool tool Jason. With the "proper" tools, yes an iridium can be gapped.
Do you see performance gains with them?
 
Now that's a cool tool Jason. With the "proper" tools, yes an iridium can be gapped.
Do you see performance gains with them?
I was getting some blowout at 40 psi on the default gap, the guys at FT told me to gap them down and it's perfect now.
 
Replaced a wheel bearing and hub seals. Also coated the knuckle with some undercoating. All parts purchased on rock auto. Also installed Kyb AGX with KYB hats.

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Nothing big. I pulled the MS3 out of it as I have an interested buyer on it. I intended on doing more, but ended up meeting up with a car buddy for lunch, then had to stop at another buddy's shop and hung out there til late.

Tomorrow I might putz with the Talon a little.
 
I attempted to do my timing belt on my 1G but I seemed to have misplaced my tensioner bolt, or accidentally used it elsewhere. Does anyone have one for sale since they are discontined.

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I attempted to do my timing belt on my 1G but I seemed to have misplaced my tensioner bolt, or accidentally used it elsewhere. Does anyone have one for sale since they are discontined
Maybe use a 2g one and cut it down 2mm or use an additional washer? I think 1g is 33mm long and 2g is 35mm. 10mm bolt, probably 1.25 pitch.
 
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