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Since I'm waiting for some parts to arrive in the mail I thought I'd clean up the wheels a little bit. Meguiars hot Chrome cleaner with some 0000 steel wool. Love this cleaner. (Ignore the flat tire. These are the tires from previous owner circa 2007.)

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Going to the SO last weekend motivated me to start wrenching on this car that's been basically collecting dust for a while. The clutch didn't hold up the last time I took it out and I just kinda let it sit after.

Yesterday I turned the trans motormount into a solid mount for Free.99. Just used some scrap metal and my time.

Today out came the trans. In went ACT flywheel, Southbend disc, ACT 3200 pressure plate. Next for tonight or tomorrow is the Jacks 2.2 trans with comp fork I've been hoarding. 3qts of Redline 75w140ns came in this morning, and my Feal 441+ coilovers came in this week. I got all the cool parts, just have to get out in the garage and turn the wrenches.

Might start a build journal for this car.

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How long can a TOB or thrust bearing surface last with a 3200?

On the opposite side of motor though? It's dry where I took the tb hoses off
Sometimes moving one thing can cause you to contact a hose and it just cracks on its own. Then coolant runs down all the low spots to land somewhere you didn't even think had a coolant line, so you begin to think your head gasket blew out the back etc etc

Age, heat..

Pulled my FP and cleaned its sock to try and regain fuel pressure but that didn't help. The tank didn't feel funny but I did take a rag and wipe all of the metal i could reach. Next up is checking the fuel filter and cleaning it (it's a SS 10 micron so it could be the issue).
Funny thing. On my car, it's easier to R&R the fuel pump than getting to and opening up the filter. I think it took about 8 minutes to get my pump out. I am still stumped as to why I am dropping fuel pressure in my blue 92 auto car. It's been an ongoing battle.
When was the last time you opened up the afpr
 
How long can a TOB or thrust bearing surface last with a 3200?
This is the same setup I ran in the car in my profile. Worked fine for many years until I ripped all the teeth off 2nd gear. When I pulled it apart the disc had half it's life still [never launched it, just politely beat the snot out of it. TOB was fine and block is fine.

The pedal pressure is no joke but I oddly prefer it.
 
Had a date with Kenny to get the car able to drive for the first time in almost a year after all the changes and went on my first test ride.
Now some driving and logs to get everything ready to make some power soon

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When was the last time you opened up the afpr
Never, LOL. Have never had to open one up for any reason and don't want to tear the diaphram.
 
Never, LOL. Have never had to open one up for any reason and don't want to tear the diaphram.
It might be causing your fuel pressure issues.. I had a small tear in my Fuelab which developed on its own.
Didn't fix my bleed down "issue" but both my 255 and 350 pumps have it with different diaphragms in the afpr so I just ignore it.

The diaphragms are fairly robust and if you're worried about pinching it, apply a tiny bit of oil to the top hat perimeter where it might contact.

Feels weird to offer advice your way, though. Haven't you done everything by now? :sneaky:
 
Thank you Curt. That is something I wouldn't have thought of checking. :thumb:
 
Hit the 6 bolt with some VHT black to clean up some surface rust while I'm still waiting for big parts. Its a lot better than it was, by no means am I a professional.

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Looks great to me!

On the opposite side of motor though? It's dry where I took the tb hoses off
There shouldnt be any coolant lines over there and I think it was mentioned that coolant can travel along crevices and drip where you least expect it.

If it was the front drivers side it could be waterpump or water tube.

Since you messed with the coolant lines at the TB I would look there. Other place wpuld be your hoses glinf to heater core.

Not alot of places coolant can come from
 
Looks great to me!


There shouldnt be any coolant lines over there and I think it was mentioned that coolant can travel along crevices and drip where you least expect it.

If it was the front drivers side it could be waterpump or water tube.

Since you messed with the coolant lines at the TB I would look there. Other place wpuld be your hoses glinf to heater core.

Not alot of places coolant can come from
yeah im waiting on a throttle body to put on then ill fill coolant and see where its coming from
 
Changed the oil and filter, getting it ready for winter storage. Also tightened down the oil pan bolts for the 20th time!!! 😡 Apparently, the pan bolt tightening will have to be part of every oil change routine from now on.
 
Changed the oil and filter, getting it ready for winter storage. Also tightened down the oil pan bolts for the 20th time!!! 😡 Apparently, the pan bolt tightening will have to be part of every oil change routine from now on.
Unless they are backing out you will dimple the pan and create more leaks
 
Unless they are backing out you will dimple the pan and create more leaks
You know my post got me thinking that itd be kind of neat if someone could CNC a lip guard that goes around the flange of the pan with holes that line up allowing a torque happy installer to protect the pan... and even help straighten a wavy pan on install.

Just an idea... no way to produce it though on my end. I know the thick flange on my trans pan is pretty much torque proof. Youll strip the trans pan holes before dimpling it.
 
Pulled the engine and transmission out of the purple spyder and swapped all the parts for the manual to auto swap.. now prep and clean the engine bay hit some spots with some paint prevent some rust.

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Unless they are backing out you will dimple the pan and create more leaks

Yeah, they’re backing out. Too much oil in the threads for lock-tite. Will have to address this next season.

You know my post got me thinking that itd be kind of neat if someone could CNC a lip guard that goes around the flange of the pan with holes that line up allowing a torque happy installer to protect the pan... and even help straighten a wavy pan on install.

I’ve worked with oil pans that have a extended straight washer the measures about an inch in both directions from the bolt. The thicker metal distributes the bolt force along the edge, resulting in a more even seal.

This should be in the “DSM Parts We Want To See Made” thread.

@EC17PSE , you up for this?
 
Got lucky and found a working sunroof at the bone yard today. Spent an hour getting it in, and now I can start getting my headliner and console back in. PROGRESS!

They also had a DSM with a carbon fiber hood there, asking 110$ for it. Not sure if it's my style tho. Its a VIS GT hood like this.

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Yeah, they’re backing out. Too much oil in the threads for lock-tite. Will have to address this next season.



I’ve worked with oil pans that have a extended straight washer the measures about an inch in both directions from the bolt. The thicker metal distributes the bolt force along the edge, resulting in a more even seal.

This should be in the “DSM Parts We Want To See Made” thread.

@EC17PSE , you up for this?
You can use 5 minute right stuff as your thread locker. Itll bond with the oil in there. Doesnt take much
 
Woke up hit the garage.. I did some sanding, painting, Then mounted the engine and transmission this morning. I have some party's today so hopefully next time she will b running and driving.

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Got lucky and found a working sunroof at the bone yard today. Spent an hour getting it in, and now I can start getting my headliner and console back in. PROGRESS!

They also had a DSM with a carbon fiber hood there, asking 110$ for it. Not sure if it's my style tho. Its a VIS GT hood like this.

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Unless it was trashed. I would buy it just to have. Never gonna b able to get one like that for that price. You could resell it also.
 
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