What did you do to your DSM today?

[enriquez2000]

Throwing a 4” intake on instead of the 3” I had. Turbo inlet is 4”

Bought the 45° pipe for $35 it had 1/4 npt port so I have the front vc going to it. Bought the 45° coupler and clamps for $25 off Amazon. Cut a couple inches off the coupler and can use that for the homemade boost leak tester I have. The filter is an Amsoil I had laying around it just needed a good cleaning.

I have to trim the pipe a bit on the filter side because the filter is hitting the frame but for $60 and some time I can’t complain.

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Did mine in a similar fashion! You may noy have to trim.. just push the filter on a bit further

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[b00zt3d spyd3r]

FML taking exhaust manifold off to get to coolant pipe and busted 2/4 manifold to turbo bolts. Gotta extract those now(hopefully) amd replace water pipe o ring

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[b00zt3d spyd3r]

So this is what they mean when they say they feel defeated atp I might as well yank this whole mfer and start fresh. Manifold to turbo bolts not coming out either

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[danl]

FML taking exhaust manifold off to get to coolant pipe and busted 2/4 manifold to turbo bolts. Gotta extract those now(hopefully) amd replace water pipe o ring

The easiest way to fix that is to buy a new turbine housing.

I have drilled them out but it takes 1-2 hours per bolt because they are hardened. You also need to sharpen the drill bits after about 10 seconds. So you have one guy sharpening bits and one guy drilling. Alternativley take it to a machine shop and see if they are willing to do it.

On reassembly, you are going to want to use a high temperature anti seize like Loctite LB 8036. The normal stuff crystalizes and binds the bolt in there.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

The easiest way to fix that is to buy a new turbine housing.

I have drilled them out but it takes 1-2 hours per bolt because they are hardened. You also need to sharpen the drill bits after about 10 seconds. So you have one guy sharpening bits and one guy drilling. Alternativley take it to a machine shop and see if they are willing to do it.

On reassembly, you are going to want to use a high temperature anti seize like Loctite LB 8036. The normal stuff crystalizes and binds the bolt in there.

Yeah I already broke two extractors then thought to myself "duh, they're exhaust bolts they're probably hardened" before I gave up . This is a china-bay turbo anyway so time for upgrade right? I've compiled a list of parts from extremepsi I may be divorced after this purchase . Their genuine mhi td05 Evo 3 big 16g will probably be where I end up. Plus a few other goodies. I'm doing all this by myself have no help or extra hands

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[92AWDHX40]

Installed radiator need to get a 16 an fitting for lower water pipe since i run a afco radiator, mmm , installed oem slave cylinder.

 

[TheDude236]

I drove the car! Still a really cool feeling being able to daily my car finally.

Also, my oil pressure gauge connection on the lower side has always been finniky. Its been off for the few days but just randomly came back last night and this morning. I'll have to check that out.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

I drove the car! Still a really cool feeling being able to daily my car finally.

Also, my oil pressure gauge connection on the lower side has always been finniky. Its been off for the few days but just randomly came back last night and this morning. I'll have to check that out.

I had this problem also. The blade connector (not sure if that's the right name) was broken and the prong on the sensor it connected to was gunked up. Cleaned and fixed blade connector and all is good

 

[TheDude236]

I had this problem also. The blade connector (not sire of that's the right name) was broken and the prong on the sensor it connected to was gunked up. Cleaned and fixed blade connector and all is good

Yeah I've done that already. Ended up taking the blade connector off and using an Alligator clip instead, which, yeah, was and is a bad idea, but it worked for quite a while without any complaints until i installed a new alternator, and wrapped some exposed wiring for the sensor in electrical tape.

Gonna get the right parts for it, eventually, but its a relatively easy and wallet saving fix later on down the line if i need to do it

 

[turbomister2]

Yeah I already broke two extractors then thought to myself "duh, they're exhaust bolts they're probably hardened" before I gave up . This is a china-bay turbo anyway so time for upgrade right? I've compiled a list of parts from extremepsi I may be divorced after this purchase . Their genuine mhi td05 Evo 3 big 16g will probably be where I end up. Plus a few other goodies. I'm doing all this by myself have no help or extra hands

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Look in the classifieds
Someone’s selling a walbro 450 with an lines and filter and regulator but it’s for a 1g
And someone is selling a fp turbo manifold

 

[jdxnc]

Monday I finally worked out all the kinks in the Fueltech swap, car finally went down the track without some sort of issue and set a new PB. Clutch however is done but I finished the year with a new PB so I'm happy.

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[chrisman287]

Did mine in a similar fashion! You may not have to trim.. just push the filter on a bit further

Slightly different angle made it clear just the tiniest bit.

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I've compiled a list of parts from extremepsi I may be divorced after this purchase

You can get that stuff second hand and spend probably half that or less.

 

[CrackedDSM]

I'm doing all this by myself have no help or extra hands

Boy don't I know that feeling, man.

 

[Vegas Smith]

I had this problem also. The blade connector (not sure if that's the right name) was broken and the prong on the sensor it connected to was gunked up. Cleaned and fixed blade connector and all is good

Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get carbide-tipped tile bits. They're super cheap and cut through steel like butter. Recently came across this revelation when tyring to extract a bolt out of my block and found a random post on the internet.

Milwaukee Carbide Glass and Tile Drill Bit Set (4-Pack) 48-20-8988 - The Home Depot

The Milwaukee 1/8 Carbide Glass and Tile Bit Set is great to use, if you require a controlled cutout on drywall. This is well constructed for reliability. It is compatible with Milwaukee tools.

www.homedepot.com

 

[Mahreeoh17]

Go to Home Depot or Lowe's and get carbide-tipped tile bits. They're super cheap and cut through steel like butter. Recently came across this revelation when tyring to extract a bolt out of my block and found a random post on the internet.

Milwaukee Carbide Glass and Tile Drill Bit Set (4-Pack) 48-20-8988 - The Home Depot

The Milwaukee 1/8 Carbide Glass and Tile Bit Set is great to use, if you require a controlled cutout on drywall. This is well constructed for reliability. It is compatible with Milwaukee tools.

www.homedepot.com

Is this to extract the stud or just bore it out of the hole?

 

[Vegas Smith]

Is this to extract the stud or just bore it out of the hole?

To cut a hole in the bolt.

 

[b00zt3d spyd3r]

Is this to extract the stud or just bore it out of the hole?

Will definitely try this

 

[stealthee]

Spent the entire afternoon/evening on Tuesday yanking the jank ass fuel cell and system from the car.

Once out I got the new cell half set in place I mocked up the new system for measuring out what I need for lines.

This is what the hatch floor looks like from the previous install.

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[92AWDHX40]

Bled my slave cylinder finally

 

[turbomister2]

Had my injectors cleaned , as well as my fuel rail and lines flushed so the car finally runs how it should again. (New lines + new injectors = a headache when you just keep saying it’s new)

 

[CrackedDSM]

Finished installing the Intake manifold (had to get two new studs), and while I was there, decided to fix the wires at the ECU to make the swap from AEM EMS --> ECMLink V3 complete. But boy, did that open a can of worms.

Long story short, I have a 1990 engine control wiring harness (actually kind of a bastard hybrid), but a 1991 engine compartment (firewall/etc) harness. I didn't even really know that was possible, but explains a lot. For example: why the Tachometer never worked for the original owner. Car has a 1991 coilpack, PTU, and cluster. I'm assuming I'm gonna have to do @steve 's trick of running a wire from the coilpack/PTU to pin 109 on the ECU harness (actually, the ECU gets RPM signal, so I'm instead gonna have to run a wire from 109 to pin 12 of the tach/cluster harness). Kinda crazy. Maybe I should just invest in a 1991 interior harness but UGH at the thought of having to pull the dash and stuff. As opposed to just one wire from the ECU to the Cluster

But, on a more positive note, this SOB is ready to start (minus some fluids, looping some hoses, putting in the OEM O2 sensor and a battery)!

 

[turbomister2]

Ruled out my fuel pump wasn’t bad so finally closed up the access hole and cleaned up my rewire

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[chrisman287]

Bled my slave cylinder finally

I’m about to replace mine. Think it’s shot?

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[92AWDHX40]

Yep its toast go oem and master cylinder. .not cheap but worth it

 

[chrisman287]

Yep its toast go oem and master cylinder. .not cheap but worth it

Not doing the master yet.

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