The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

What did you do to your DSM today?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

We had that thing flying... we were fighting some sputtering that didnt show in logs. Anxiously awaiting!
Yes WE did and I really appreciate the assistance that you provided.
Are you on the road now with yours?
 
Yes WE did and I really appreciate the assistance that you provided.
Are you on the road now with yours?
I love this stuff! Always got your back!

Have to take a long drive in it but its buttoned up, no leaks and ready to fly!

Our local track is closing this season. Im hoping to get it down there for a final pass.
 
Get her broke in and go run her thru the beams a time or two!!! :thumb:
 
Been replacing tons of broken wires and damaged connectors and a correct fuel pump rewire. Finished replacing the MPI connector. The two wires for the fuel pump were so charred and melted that I couldn't extract them from the connector.

Below are two pics I stole from Google and circled the solenoid in red.
Like @97egl said, the solenoid is externally mounted. Sometimes they have a shield or cover covering them (also circled in red)

You must be logged in to view this image or video.



You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Looks similar to an early 2000s Dodge Neon auto...
 
Waiting on brake parts, received my EBC front and rear pads except the front pads only have the one clip on them for the inner pads you can see in the pic. EBC says thats the way they are I dont really understand that since it has a different stamped number on the back. No DBA rotors in the US showed several in stock and that was a lie DBA said I wouldnt get them till end of Oct so going with something else. (Josh at JNZ has been really helpful with the EBC and DBA issues awesome guy hands down) Having my front calipers rebuilt that I bought from a member on here, come to find out one is OEM and the other is a toyota so had to find different pistons and seal kits. Just one thing after another it seems LOL. Did however manage to get the JNZ short throw I bought off a member installed so small things LOL. Brakes get on and bleed she goes to paint next. Scored these In great shape fog lights and brackets!!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Waiting on brake parts, received my EBC front and rear pads except the front pads only have the one clip on them for the inner pads you can see in the pic. EBC says thats the way they are I dont really understand that since it has a different stamped number on the back. No DBA rotors in the US showed several in stock and that was a lie DBA said I wouldnt get them till end of Oct so going with something else. (Josh at JNZ has been really helpful with the EBC and DBA issues awesome guy hands down) Having my front calipers rebuilt that I bought from a member on here, come to find out one is OEM and the other is a toyota so had to find different pistons and seal kits. Just one thing after another it seems LOL. Did however manage to get the JNZ short throw I bought off a member installed so small things LOL. Brakes get on and bleed she goes to paint next. Scored these In great shape fog lights and brackets!!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
If you're talking about that single metal bracket that's what makes the awful screeching noise when your pad level gets low.

There should be more hardware in the box.
Also note that the hardware IS directional for the rears if you got rears..
 
Local guy rebuilt my throttle body and replaced my axles. Axles were seized AF when I tried to remove from the early years or running no center caps and water getting in there, so had no problem letting someone with the actual know-how take over. Reset my TPS to .63 and reset my idle as well as resetting my emissions monitors in Link.

She idles great and runs well now that I changed the spark plugs. Went for a cruise with the wife.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


While monitoring, I noticed this bi*** is running hotter than normal since I installed the new intercooler. Maybe because i have a solid bumper reinforcement bar that the new intercooler screws to and no air is able to get through the front of the radiator where the last one was cut for the Greddy to fit and had a gap.. i was previously running high 190s.. maybe 203 after a run with a 180 thermostat. Nows shes running around 206 after warmup and light driving with average highs of 214 on the highway and Ive seen as high as 219. Came back from the cruise and was in the school parking lot (a nice big oval ring :) ) so i could check the Preludes suspension. When I got back to my car, my code reader had a temp of 235 from my wife taking it around the ring twice and idling for less than 10 minutes while I was running her car. This is after adding half a bottle of Water Wetter to 50/50 and having to remove the stock drivers side fan, which keeps melting even tho i have head shields and lined the inside of the lower shield with exhaust wrap.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


Put it in the garage and the check engine light was on, but after checking in Link and with my code reader... the check engine light was on but no codes were thrown?

So gotta get this check engine light figured out since i have to go for emissions and figure out a way to cool this girl down.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
If you're talking about that single metal bracket that's what makes the awful screeching noise when your pad level gets low.

There should be more hardware in the box.
Also note that the hardware IS directional for the rears if you got rears..
Im talking about the silver bracket that is on one of the brake shoes in the picture for the fronts.
Yea EBC doesnt give you any of those tin brackets just slide pin grease and stickers
 
Put it in the garage and the check engine light was on, but after checking in Link and with my code reader... the check engine light was on but no codes were thrown?

So gotta get this check engine light figured out since i have to go for emissions and figure out a way to cool this girl down.
If your car was running hot at that time go into ecmlink and see where you have the cel to come on at for certain parameters.

For instance if I run hotter than 215 coolant temp my cel comes on. If it detects 3 counts of knock the cel flashes.

Im not sure where ecmlink has these parameters set from factory but I imagine at 235 you probably hit it and that’s why the cel came on with no codes.

IIRC you can find it under the misc tab on the left in ecmlink.

-Daniel
 
If your car was running hot at that time go into ecmlink and see where you have the cel to come on at for certain parameters.

For instance if I run hotter than 215 coolant temp my cel comes on. If it detects 3 counts of knock the cel flashes.

Im not sure where ecmlink has these parameters set from factory but I imagine at 235 you probably hit it and that’s why the cel came on with no codes.

IIRC you can find it under the misc tab on the left in ecmlink.

-Daniel

Thanks for the reply and the knowledge. I didnt set up the Link myself and havent done a whole lot in it other than setting idle, so this helps a lot.
 
Im talking about the silver bracket that is on one of the brake shoes in the picture for the fronts.
Yea EBC doesnt give you any of those tin brackets just slide pin grease and stickers
This guy right here is that low pad indicator.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I guess I don't know where you ordered your pads from, but my Yellowstuff front pads came with all new hardware.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
This guy right here is that low pad indicator.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I guess I don't know where you ordered your pads from, but my Yellowstuff front pads came with all new hardware.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Ok yes the low pad Indicator, to me 2 pads should have them not just one but according to EBC thats not the case. I ordered the pads from JNZ but they came right from EBC’s wharehouse, actually both front and rear did and neither had new hardware which is unheard of I mean cheap brakes from a parts store come with them LOL.
 
Ok yes the low pad Indicator, to me 2 pads should have them not just one but according to EBC thats not the case. I ordered the pads from JNZ but they came right from EBC’s wharehouse, actually both front and rear did and neither had new hardware which is unheard of I mean cheap brakes from a parts store come with them LOL.
Id reach out to Josh.. all brakes should have hardware
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Started tearing it apart.

Why, you may ask?
Found out a few months ago that crank end play > 0.01

Why, you may ask?
P.O.'s mechanic doesn't know how to install a clutch and didn't adjust the master cylinder so, yeah, the slave cylinder couldn't push the fluid back. Unfortunately, before I bought the car, I didn't check for that because it didn't even enter my mind that the person would be an idiot. I noticed what was done when I got it back home and adjusted the master properly but the damage was already done by then. I wondered why the clutch pedal felt like it was out of a Caliber SRT4. I just hoped it didn't result in a potentially catastrophic problem. Boy, was I wrong.

Is there any hope?
Perhaps. This is a JDM 6bolt that was rebuilt before install and the clutch was done just a few months before I bought the car. Not a lot of mileage since but enough to chew through the bearing. However, it was built with cheap chinese aluminum bearings, so hopefully they took the brunt of the damage and the crank just needs to be polished.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
Put the car on the dyno this weekend, base pull made 560whp at 26psi and we turned it up to 35 netting 731hp/510tq, turbo should have another 10 psi or so in it but I want to start at the track at this level rather than all out.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Put the car on the dyno this weekend, base pull made 560whp at 26psi and we turned it up to 35 netting 731hp/510tq, turbo should have another 10 psi or so in it but I want to start at the track at this level rather than all out.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Is this a gt3582 turbo? Whats your AR?
 
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Started tearing it apart.

Why, you may ask?
Found out a few months ago that crank end play > 0.01

Why, you may ask?
P.O.'s mechanic doesn't know how to install a clutch and didn't adjust the master cylinder so, yeah, the slave cylinder couldn't push the fluid back. Unfortunately, before I bought the car, I didn't check for that because it didn't even enter my mind that the person would be an idiot. I noticed what was done when I got it back home and adjusted the master properly but the damage was already done by then. I wondered why the clutch pedal felt like it was out of a Caliber SRT4. I just hoped it didn't result in a potentially catastrophic problem. Boy, was I wrong.

Is there any hope?
Perhaps. This is a JDM 6bolt that was rebuilt before install and the clutch was done just a few months before I bought the car. Not a lot of mileage since but enough to chew through the bearing. However, it was built with cheap chinese aluminum bearings, so hopefully they took the brunt of the damage and the crank just needs to be polished.
Best of luck to you. Saved a car from a partout where the guy adjusted the master cylinder so "tight" that the ball bearings and races inside the throw-out bearing welded. The clutch lever was completely destroyed and was 100% the problem.

Clutch disk was trashed, flywheel trashed, pressure plate trashed, the release fork was almost "cut" into pieces. Guy said he could start it in gear and move the car...bad move. I didn't measure the endplay - but I did find some present.

Your situation probably isn't as bad.

It's a custom turbo from Turbo Parts Canada, started life as an old school FP red, now it's a 65mm compressor/62mm turbine, stuffed in the 10CM housing.
Did the 10cm housing require machine work? I'm not familiar (right now) with the TD06H dimensions.

Replaced the large connector on the ECU side of the harness and repaired 4 wires. Now onto the starter relay wiring, wiring under the steering column, and getting all the LED turn signals+brake lights to work correctly.
 
Taking my New Eagle Crank, Manley I Beam Turbo Tuff rods with Manley Extreme Duty 10:1's pistons, rod bearings and rings all to the balancing shop as soon as I get off work TODAY around 3pm. It is a little more than an hour to the shop, so I will call to make sure they will be there til 5pm here in a bit. :cool:
Cost - $200.00 :thumb:
Just placed that call. Yep, they will be there til 5! :D
Update.
Parts delivered and services paid for. Waiting on a phone call.
Interesting enough, they were checking out my shit, especially my wrist pins. They had a Ford EcoBoost motor in the shop that had Manley H beam rods but puny wrist pins and the owner BROKE ONE.Twisted it off.
I should have taken a picture. There was also one bent rod. They looked VERY similar in design and size of our 4g rods. The wrist pin broke right at the piston boss and I suspect it saw detonation and was on E85 and the owner had too much timing in it. Imagine the spark hit as the piston is on it's way UP, but trying to be pushed back down at the same time, mechanically being FORCED to move in the intended direction. SOMETHING HAS TO GIVE. The small wrist pin did and one rod bent. I need to tell him what I think. He didn't inspect my pins and THEN show me that Ford EcoBoost engine for nothing. It also broke a chunk out of the cylinder wall as they have sleeves and when one on the end was removed, part of the hollow core block came with it.
Makes me glad to have a good ole iron block motor!!!. :)
Kinda cool too have them ask ME stuff too, even what size turbo! Do they want to know what I KNOW???
Hmmm, LOL. :hmm:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Last edited:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G DSM Link V3
    2G DSM Link V3 $600 + shipping and paypal fees* no cable included * cables are 75 on the...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 2g Shot in the dark (2g Pass strut cut out)
    Need 2g strut tower to save time.
    • frosh29
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top