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So i fixed my earlier issues and put the car on the ground... Im going to wait until the morning to drive it around my neighborhood, the neighbors wouldn't appreciate how loud my car is at this time of night.
 
-attached j-pipe, cleaned up intercooler piping and couplers.. I need a catch can.
-flipped oem upper rad hose over since recirc valve doesn't allow stock routing, and filled with coolant (probably a 90/10 water/glycol mix at this moment until I can drive the water pump)
-Redid turbo oil drain on both turbo and pan ends with new gaskets (good lord I forgot how cramped it is down there)
-oil change (running Rotella T 15W-40)

Cut open the last filter by peeling the metal with a pair of pliers. This filter had the most amount of kilometers on it of any other - probably about 5000. The filter element looked spotless with no shavings or sparkly bits, so I'm happy about that. I am finding little tiny pieces of metal on each oil change, though, numbering usually only two or three, maybe four. Not flakes like bearings. I would expect if there was any severe damage, though, not only would I find more, but the filter would be kinda ugly. The filter, however, is nearest makes no difference spotless. Shrug, run it until it pops LOL. I'm curious as to what they are, if they're even FROM this engine and wasn't something just stuck somewhere that I couldn't get to when cleaning before assembly, or something that fell in during assembly and just sits at the bottom until an oil change. Again, spotless filter. Crazy. Don't feel like tearing it apart for essentially no good reason.


Found my passenger side lower control arm balljoint's boot split all the way around. ~7000km on it, one season. It was not the cheapest either.. it was mid-tier, just under Moog. Blue boot. Not impressed. Hopefully the balljoint itself is still fine and I can just replace the boot.


last things on the list before starting it up: figure out a good place for the coil pack, transistor, throw 10L in the tank, hand crank, maybe crank it without the fuse to see if I can at least get the oil circulating.. then the idle tune
 
Drained the trans fluid, changed the filter, cleaned the pan and the magnets, refilled it...and it's still not going into drive or reverse. Fluid level doesn't change engine off or engine on, so bad transmission pump it is.




Going to pull it out and give it the kiggly treatment. Might as well, it'll be a good peace of mind to know that the freshly built transmission will handle the torque from the built long-rod 4G64.
 
Finished porting turbine housing and 02 housing . New crush washers on water lines . Ordered oil lines . Bolted new FP manifold to fresh big 16g.
 

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Powdercoated the e-brake line protective sheath retainer clips. They're like the size of a paperclip :)

One of mine was MIA, so I grabbed a couple rusty ones off a 95 Sebring, soaked em in acid etch cleaner all night, coated em today.
 
Last night installed my battery, radiator, hoses, heater core hoses, and made sure my windows and all worked which they do. Hopefully installing intercooler, piping and a new passenger door handle today
 
finished ignition coils bracket
trimmed transistor bracket for alternative mounting

tomorrow:
adjust afpr to 2g pressure from current 1g setup
pull plugs
crank over a bit
put plugs in
try to start it

scary.
 
Painted rear diff. They didn't have the cheap gloss black Tremclad, so I splurged on the "Professional" Tremclad. (Exactly the same, just bigger can)

Looks much better then the rusty hulk I removed.

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Tried to figure out why it wouldn't want to start.. cranked forever, even sounded like it was fighting the starter with improperly timed spark. Had plenty of fuel.
Swapped to another coil pack, had it running rough after much cranking. Then all of a sudden, it started right up. Now I see no issues, even moved it a bit after bleeding the clutch. Got a slight idle tune in, but have to compensate just a little more for maf and 750s.

next up: finish idle and cruise tune, start wot tune.
 
Went to start my rebuilt engine and the front case started to leak while it was running. I was sooo pissed. I torque it to 17 ft lbs. too. :banghead:. I feel like throwing a grenade at it.LOL everything is new to. Stupid car!
 
Painted rear diff. They didn't have the cheap gloss black Tremclad, so I splurged on the "Professional" Tremclad. (Exactly the same, just bigger can)

Looks much better then the rusty hulk I removed.

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I though about doing that yesterday. Looks nice!
 

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Put a stock 18" wheel and tire from my 2009 lancer gts daily driver on to see if it fits, as I'll have to use those for either the season or just the next couple months while I figure out how to deal with the worn out tires and rims already on the talon. Car is silver, wheels are very dark grey, to match the dark grey Lancer body colour. Looks kinda weird but good at the same time, huge arch gap that I'm not going to bother to remedy.

Verdict: will run them anyway because I want to see if I can get traction in second with them.
 
Cracked open the rear diff.

Pulled ring off open diff, bolted it to the evo 3 LSD.

Need to get some marking compound so I can check if it's all good.

I may powdercoat the cover and get some black socket cap screws to match the color scheme.

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Cracked open the rear diff.

Pulled ring off open diff, bolted it to the evo 3 LSD.

Need to get some marking compound so I can check if it's all good.

I may powdercoat the cover and get some black socket cap screws to match the color scheme.

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Very nice
 

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Finally got the silicone coupler I was waiting for so I could install my new intake. There is a K&N filter that fits over this 6" velocity stack, just didn't get a picture of it.
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meh.... need different shims...

0.008" of backlash

FSM calls for max 0.006"

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Last edited:
Started my wire tuck :banghead:
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