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For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

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Wanted to clean her up...removed the rear seat to find a crazy amount of sub/audio wiring with a credit car that expired in 2005.

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HOLY SH** you could scrap all that copper and make millions LOL ROFL:hellyeah:
 

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CV joint exploded leaving my apartment the other day.. Luckily I was able to push it back inside the gate and did the fix myself. Broke the socket adapter on the end of one breaker bar as well as an extension bar getting the axel nut off. After multiple trips for tools and some guidance from a mechanic that lives close by, it was done.

:rocks:
 

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Finished tearing apart the motor. Rear BS seized, cylinder 4 wrist pin is tight, crank is galled, bearings are toast...

...Two weeks ago my oil filter pipe unscrewed from the oil filter housing resulting in oil all over the highway. I was driving in very heavy rain, prob would have heard,smelled,and saw the smoke otherwise... :cry:

All I gotta say is that the oil-water cooler solution is iffy... Make sure the pipe is in there tight and with anti-seize during your next oil change, or you might be shopping for a machine shop like I am right now!
 
Replaced my passenger side front axle, wheel bearing/hub assembly with brand new OEM. Also installed my brand new EBC rotor and green stuff brake pads.

Will do drivers side tomorrow, it was a pain in the @ss.. Time to drink some brewskis and relax.

Jayson
 
I stared at mine. Hated myself for allowing a community college to do a clutch in it. Now I'm stuck with a leaky output shaft and no idea how to fix it. Oh and tried installing a new o2 housing with dump tube then realized that the bolts on my car are stuck on there from years of neglect. Tomorrow: pulling my transmission to get to the bottom of that output shaft.
 
Knows this is what I'm doing today. Replacing driver side axle, wheel bearing/hub assembly, rotor and brake pads.

Jayson
 

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plastidipped my rims!!!!:hellyeah:

I stared at mine. Hated myself for allowing a community college to do a clutch in it. Now I'm stuck with a leaky output shaft and no idea how to fix it. Oh and tried installing a new o2 housing with dump tube then realized that the bolts on my car are stuck on there from years of neglect. Tomorrow: pulling my transmission to get to the bottom of that output shaft.

never let community college touch your car!!! :nono:
 
Got bored waiting for my exhaust manifold stuff to get here, so I took the alarm siren and hooked it up to the horn and took out the old horns. When she gets running, be prepared for the massive amounts of troLOLol.

Also had a honda friend admit that he likes to ride in my car because of the backfire on decel (no cat)
 
So while performing a blt, I had to tighten down my fuel rail due to a leak on the #1 injector, when just to spite myself, I snapped off the injector bolt in the head.. :banghead:

Damn... how much torque were you trying to put on it? :)

Those bolts only get like 10-12 ft/lbs IIRC. I only tighten them enough to compress a lock washer. And, they will usually strip the head before breaking a bolt.

*****

Installed a -6AN fuel line from tank to firewall, and switched to a dual pump setup over the weekend. BTW - dual wallys are loud as hell. :)
 
Damn... how much torque were you trying to put on it? :)

Those bolts only get like 10-12 ft/lbs IIRC. I only tighten them enough to compress a lock washer. And, they will usually strip the head before breaking a bolt.

*****

Installed a -6AN fuel line from tank to firewall, and switched to a dual pump setup over the weekend. BTW - dual wallys are loud as hell. :)

Got her out :cool:
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I bought a "good" used trans and installed it. Drove it down the street and it had no fifth.
Called the guy and no answer. Originally my trans had a busted throwout bearing shaft
So I simply pulled the used "good" one, split it, and used the bellhousing. Pretty easy but time consuming. Some people just can't be honest.
 
Finished tearing apart the motor. Rear BS seized, cylinder 4 wrist pin is tight, crank is galled, bearings are toast...

...Two weeks ago my oil filter pipe unscrewed from the oil filter housing resulting in oil all over the highway. I was driving in very heavy rain, prob would have heard,smelled,and saw the smoke otherwise... :cry:

All I gotta say is that the oil-water cooler solution is iffy... Make sure the pipe is in there tight and with anti-seize during your next oil change, or you might be shopping for a machine shop like I am right now!

What ever you do, DO NOT re-use the oil cooler. Chances are its full of metal shavings that will not come out, no matter how much you clean it. Those shavings will come out and go straight to the crank and you'll trash your crank within 5 miles. Been there, done that. FYI.
 
I got my M&H Racemaster slicks and skinnies mounted on my Bogart Racing wheels :D

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New o2 sensor since the old one shorted out and burn the ecu ground, I also put in a pte5031 I got for cheap after took out my evo 3 turbo from my evo 3. Also rebuilt the oil catch can so it would work the right way. Posted the evo 3 16g for sale.
All was done to my 2gb Awd talon Spyder
 
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