What did you do to your DSM today?

[fierosail]

filled the tank ( was scary low )

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Got tired of looking at clear peeling

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

after 1st coat

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before

 

[curt-s]

Did oil relief mod over the weekend, cured high oil pressure at cruise and up to 5k which I'll hit about 95psi. Good enough for now.

Got my 100km break-in oil change to do today, then I'll run it again.

Interestingly enough, removal of a pivot ball shim (I know, not recommended on all new clutch components but it was a desperate attempt to fix a problem years ago that was traced to the wrong slave cylinder sold to me) cured my rpm drop on clutch depression. Must have been overextending the fingers and applying exponential load because the fingers and springs were not contacting. The shim was hugely fat. What was I thinking?!

On only 8 pounds, no traction in first or second at 4-4.5k. Need better tires next year.

 

[talon2gbuyer]

After tearing apart my cooling system (and still having issues with a damn water pipe) bought a set of PTE 650cc injectors, a perrin MBC and a A1000 AFPR

 

[gsx50501]

took apart the front end to put the fog lights back in (out when i bought the car) only to find out the plugs are not there :/ sob!!! switched out a bad power steering pump and started to pulling timing belt stuff off.

 

[curt-s]

put in the lower honeycomb off a spare mas to undo the previous owner's bright idea to peg out his fuel trims 139% and create knock all over the place. I thought it was phantom knock leaving the line and at certain RPMs randomly. Nope. 98.6% FTL now, zero knock.

Now I have to figure out why the heater on this O2 sensor appears to be dead, even though the sensor only has 130km on it. Last one had a "dead heater" too. I'm thinking it's a ground or a break in the circuit somewhere. Cruise it's perfectly fine.

Idles like ass and almost stalls out. I peg lean at idle and she's rough. That's a symptom of zero O2 feedback, right?

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

put in the lower honeycomb off a spare mas to undo the previous owner's bright idea to peg out his fuel trims 139% and create knock all over the place. I thought it was phantom knock leaving the line and at certain RPMs randomly. Nope. 98.6% FTL now, zero knock.

Now I have to figure out why the heater on this O2 sensor appears to be dead, even though the sensor only has 130km on it. Last one had a "dead heater" too. I'm thinking it's a ground or a break in the circuit somewhere. Cruise it's perfectly fine.

Idles like ass and almost stalls out. I peg lean at idle and she's rough. That's a symptom of zero O2 feedback, right?

Not exactly. Zero feedback would cause a constant open loop mode. A cold start is in open loop. A bad o2 usually wont cause a rough idle. Just horrible mpg. But a leak wood cause one to read wrong. But heater would be a circuit or sensor issue.

 

[gsx50501]

Hey I know this isn't the place for this question but I can't make a thread since I'm in that 30day window thing. So what I'd like to know is what rpm would a fp green start to spool on a 2.3 stroker? Please help me out

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Hey I know this isn't the place for this question but I can't make a thread since I'm in that 30day window thing. So what I'd like to know is what rpm would a fp green start to spool on a 2.3 stroker? Please help me out

You want quicker spool? Increase your compression ratio. I couldn't answer the when question though.

 

[gsx50501]

You want quicker spool? Increase your compression ratio. I couldn't answer the when question though.

Compression is 9.5:1 my question is if anyone has used a similar set up what rpm did you see it start to spool ( hx35 or fp green)

 

[curt-s]

Not exactly. Zero feedback would cause a constant open loop mode. A cold start is in open loop. A bad o2 usually wont cause a rough idle. Just horrible mpg. But a leak wood cause one to read wrong. But heater would be a circuit or sensor issue.

It intermittently reads but for the most part no. Touch the throttle and it reads, let go and its dead. My idle vac is 20 so I'm not convinced about a leak, especially since I'm not running rich or lean otherwise.#It's a thinker.. anyway, wrong thread to me to continue this on. I'll have a look at the wiring.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Doing this right now

 

[DSM_love_GST]

Purchased the parts to rebuild my transmission!

 

[DSM_love_GST]

Doing this right now

You really should not bondo on top of paint.

 

[Torres50]

Today I manged to get to the fuel pump I'm new to the site trying to get to ware I can start my own thread

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

You really should not bondo on top of paint.

You mean clear. Bondo on base coats is fine. I've done it before without any trouble. You don't have to sand it all the way down unless there are chips to the metal. As long as all clear is gone its fine.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Today I manged to get to the fuel pump I'm new to the site trying to get to ware I can start my own thread

You can start one in the newbie forum already

 

[USAF 98 GSX]

Got really frustrated! I decided to install my Prosport WB today. First started with the bung. Got all my welding supplies together. Unbolted the two nuts off the O2 housing side of my downpipe. However, after 2 hours, 8 bud lights and a few thrown tools, I had to remove the ENTIRE exhaust. None of the exhaust joints wanted to cooperate and come apart. So to get to my downpipe, everything had to come off.

Well as I'm setting my welding station up I realized I don't have a 7/8" metal circle bit to cut the hole for the bung. So I tried the old school "Drill alot of small pilot holes and then punch the circle out. Didnt work. So I filled in the holes with weld. And I decided I will spend the $40 at Lowes tomorrow and buy a "Step up metal bit". Well maybe better luck tomorrow.

 

[DSM_love_GST]

You mean clear. Bondo on base coats is fine. I've done it before without any trouble. You don't have to sand it all the way down unless there are chips to the metal. As long as all clear is gone its fine.

I have always been taught to adhere the bondo to metal, so that in the case that there is a crack or chip later in the paint next to the area with filler which causes the filler to flake off.

 

[Blurred Talon]

Cleaned up the shop and found a couple things I've been looking for.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

I have always been taught to adhere the bondo to metal, so that in the case that there is a crack or chip later in the paint next to the area with filler which causes the filler to flake off.

The only time I ever went to the metal was when I needed to use the stud welder to fix a dent. Otherwise I would just sand where the bondo goes and a small amount of the surrounding area.

if there is a chip in the paint you can either sand it down till its gone (sometimes chips only are primer deep.) Or you can sand where it is and, surrounding area and spot putty it.

If the paint that you are painting over is peeling/chipping/flaking you will be ale to tell when sanding the area if you can use it for the surface for bondo or not. If its good you can bondo on the base coat and primer seal it when sanding is done.th

If the paint that goes over your bondo job flakes it wasn't sanded right after primer. Otherwise it should stick and if it did peel itd be just the paint not the bondo.

If bondo always had to be on metal body repairs would even more expensive than they are now. And yes I used to work at a, body shop.

 

[talon2gbuyer]

Nohing today.. waiting for my safc to come in.

 

[gsx50501]

I got my dsm link V3 !!!!!! but i still have to finish doing my timing belt

 

[GofaST4life]

Wanted to clean her up...removed the rear seat to find a crazy amount of sub/audio wiring with a credit car that expired in 2005.

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