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Warped Head

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Coopens

10+ Year Contributor
32
0
Nov 4, 2010
Denver, Colorado
So my head is completely shot.

I want to make some improvements on the car while it's apart but I have a $2500 ceiling, which has to pay for parts and labor. I want to put a wideband in it but I don't know if it's worth it at this point.

I guess, in short, I would like suggestions on what I should do.

EDIT: The car is a '97 Eclipse GST with a mapped chip. I have no idea what the chip was mapped to but I know that everything else on the car is stock.
 
For $2500 you could buy a GSX thats running and driving and just swap a few parts arround to your likings. I would buy a junker GSX and pull the rear frame and all the AWD parts to put them in your GS-t. That would be a nice upgrade for the FWD to make it AWD.

You can find out what the chip is written for by calling he compny that made it and giving then the serial code on the top of it. They should be able to tell you exactlly what that chip was written for.
 
I like the FWD aspect of the GST, it just suites my taste better. I was just looking for advice on what to do as far as replacing/surfacing the head and such go. I'd really rather not get myself into the mess of tearing apart another car to fix mine.

Thanks for the tip on figuring out my chip as well!
 
So all you need is a rebuilt head, misc. things to put it back together? Deff. won't be 2.5k if you do your homework. Are you doing the work or having it done by someone else?

What was the cause of the head being "completely shot"?
 
What's your goals for the car? I wouldn't waste it where its not needed. I would look into getting parts around the motor such as bolt ons. Don't get ahead of yourself and think you need top of the line parts. Check the upgrade paths to get an ideal
 
Figure out what you want out of your car and just work from there
 
So the general idea is replace the head and build up from there? Nothing too fancy or anything just basic bolt on parts. I think that's a great place to start! Thanks everyone.
 
While you have the head off you should get some arp's. That way later on if you want to make some real ponies you already have the head studs. ;)
 
Definitely look into getting arp head studs, A nice head gasket that goes along with the compression ratio you would like, since your head will be out you might as well think about getting a new timing belt kit, water pump, lower pulleys, and so fourth. Also if your finally rebuilding your head you might wanna get some camshafts, springs, valves. Depending on your setup. The range to rebuild the head was from $100 to $150 at some local shops. Look into it and get some prices from your local shops.
 
Another thing popped into my head yesterday when I was trying to price out this whole thing. What is the difference between buying a new head and just getting mine resurfaced or what have you, aside from the obvious?
 
Buying a new head would be more expensive.

If you only need a resurface, I literally JUST picked up my head 20 minutes ago from being surfaced, surfacing cost me $30 + $17 for cleaning.

I'd suggest picking up cams / springs / retainers.
If you want to stay on the cheap side go with BC 272 / BC Springs&retainers. You can get it all for like $500 and it may be like an extra $100-$150 to have a shop install them. Don't listen to people who say BC is junk, many people use it with great results. Yes a lot of stuff out there is better but also for those you pay $500-$700 for just the cams. Unless you can get some Delta Regrinds, they perform great and are very cheap but supposedly their turnover rate is mind-numbing.

So lets say you buy the cams / have it installed + other head work you have done. That's probably about $700-750 there. Next up I'd buy DSMlink v3 lite if you know how to tune or know someone who can tune, it's actually easy to learn. If you're not up to the challenge you can just get a keydiver stage 3 chip.. They're cheap and they are really great alternative if you don't know anything about tuning. I'd trust one to get me to the 350whp area before I'd want a more direct tuning software. You can also side tune with a keydiverchip and SAFC..

So if you got DSMLink v3 lite and the above you'd be down to about $1400. At this point I'd invest in a 16g. You can find them from 400-600 new from what I've seen. Lets say you spend $500. $900 will buy you a walbro 255 for around $100. Then i'd go with Import Evolution for an FPR $185.

Down to $615 from your original 2500 you stated. You can pick up some 650cc FIC injectors for around $250.. Your mod list in your profile says you don't have any mods other than a short shifter/map chip(whatever that is).

So with the remaining $365. Buy a boost controller ($25-$40), 1g Bov ($40-60, I actually have two crushed 1g bov's I'm letting go for $45 shipped each in good shape if you're interested in one), ARP headstuds $75.

Then I'd grab a FP 4" intake which runs around $100. Then I'd try to find a 3" downpipe and 3" exhaust. Downpipe I'd go with a Megan 3" for $120, and exhaust I know of an ebay one that I'm thinking about picking up since I hear the fitment is good.. a pipe is a pipe, if its 3" stainless steel it'll do fine. The one I'm looking at is $140.

With everything I listed, you'd be at -$55.. However I also sourced about EVERYTHING from price brand new.

Things like injectors, downpipe, intake, turbo, FPR, etc you could all find for a lot cheaper just in the classifieds here. Also you'd save about $200 if you go with keydiver instead of DSMlink.

All of this should guarantee you to get around 300-350whp without an issue, even further probably if you wanted to.

edit: i forgot about a FMIC, but you can get a ebay core that will work fine for around $100 and custom make your piping for less than $100, it's really easy. also yeah you need a wideband & boost gauge.
 
well it depends on what you want done to the head. if you go full through yours, it would cost about the same as a reman, but if you build your head you will know what you have in it and how far you can push it.
 
Good lord that was in depth Clinical!

I really appreciate it but as stated above that 2500 has to cover labor as well plus I'm not entirely sure of the condition of all of my hoses/belts/etc. But with that list I'll see how far I can go after I get those checked and what I need replaced, replaced.
 
Good lord that was in depth Clinical!

I really appreciate it but as stated above that 2500 has to cover labor as well plus I'm not entirely sure of the condition of all of my hoses/belts/etc. But with that list I'll see how far I can go after I get those checked and what I need replaced, replaced.

If your maintenance hasnt been done then do that first.
Replace vacuum lines, and all your timing hardware. Will run you around $300.
Just read the tutorials on here and vfaq.com

Its simply not worth paying other people to work on these cars, I got my first DSM on December 16th 2009, I only knew how to change my own oil.

I can now tackle 90% of DSM mechanics.

In your case then I'd just resurface the head, put in ARP Headstuds and keep the head stock for now. My talon was running around 350whp with the stock head with more potential to be had.

Pick up a 16g, FMIC, Intake, Exhaust, Clutch, 1g BOV, 550/650cc injectors, 190/255lph walbro pump, FPR(if you buy the 255 fuel pump, boost controller, keydiver chip, boost gauge, wideband. You should be able to afford that easily since you wouldnt be dumping money into your head.

If you want recommendations on anything, PM me.
Aside from the head, everything else is pretty much easy as hell to install.


One thing I just remembered too, buy a balance shaft elimination kit while your head is off. Balance shafts are ###.
 
The whole issue with me doing the work myself, which is what I would prefer, is that I don't have a place to work on it nor the time to do so.
 
most everything i mentioned in my 2nd post can be done very quickly and easily.
The only things that may take more than 30 minutes I think would be the FMIC / 16g install /clutch ( i know you 2g guys have some extra crap to do with 16g installs)

Exhaust might as well be done at a shop anyway.

Hell just find a DSMer around you, toss them around $200-$300 and I guarantee they'd do the installs for you. I'd never trust most shops to install stuff on one of my cars unless it was a place like AMS but you will end up with a bill at a place like that with quad-druple digits and more.
 
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