warped head?

[94whitetalizle]

Hi, i was wondering what will happen if you take the screws of the head off just regurlarly instead of going in order to take them off, is my head or block damaged now?

thanks

 

[GVR4592]

The only way to know is to take it to a machine shop and have them check it.

 

[Gs Dewd]

You can take a straight edge like a metal yard stick or soemthign like that and check yourself. Just lay it across the deck surface of the bolck and head and see if there are any gaps. If one was to warp I would think the head not the block.

 

[luv2rallye]

If "gaps" (above post), take it to a machine shop and have it milled.

 

[GTM]

You can take a straight edge like a metal yard stick or soemthign like that and check yourself. Just lay it across the deck surface of the bolck and head and see if there are any gaps. If one was to warp I would think the head not the block.

The only way to know is to take it to a machine shop and have them check it.

Comon sports fans, the yardstick will be too flimsey but you can find 1/4"x2" aluminum bar stock at hardware stores, Home Depot etc. To check for true put the edges together and look for gaps, then flip one over and again check for gaps, then flip the other over. If you really want to get picky then swap one end for end and repeat the process. Make sure there are no nicks though these can be lightly filed off with a Mill Bastard file. Hopefully they will sell you 2' unless the cutting charge is too much.

You can drill a hole for hanging on a peg board or attaching a shoelace because you have a percision tool. If you want to check it's accuracy place on a piece of "Plate Glass" which is usually within .001" of flat. Use a feeler gauge and check different spots along the length, don't have a .001" feeler then set the ends of the bar on index cards which are usually .006"-.007" thick then use any combination of feelers to make that thickness to check along the length. If you find any variation make a pencil mark, flip the bar over and check again.
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Now you can check the cleaned head by placing the bar straight down the center and checking with your feeler gauge, repeat on each side then in an X diagonally. I don't have the specs but will toss out .005" or greater is to be suspect. You can use an old brake pad and 100-120 grit sandpaper to clean the head after you have scraped all the grunge and gasket away. You can repeat the process on the block if you suspect it's gotten really hot.

===========Do this At your own risk::::::::::::::::::::::::

Small warpages can be removed by placing laths or thin strips 1/8" plywood between the head and block where it's flat but not where you want the bend. Install the head bolts and torque it down evenly and slowly to half max torque value. Remove the bolts a little at a time and check again, if you are making progress try upping the torque another 10lbs and check again. You can then leave it overnight. I've pulled .005"-007" warpage out this way and never had a comeback. It saves having to cut the head for there is just so much you can take off before it's scrap. I've also used 100 ton presses and a torch to take .020" out when a head had already been cut before... anything to save a buck. Drastic conditions require drastic measures, do consider this is professional license and knowing not to do anything stupid.

You can also check the head on the valve cover mating face though the valve cover threaded holes may be standing proud need to be filed true. Check it before bolting just as you did the head gasket side then you can monitor your progress as you torque for bending. Remember it's going to spring back maybe 15% when the pressure is removed. It's just trial and error and patience.

Cheers,
GTM