Wally 255 And Damages it can cause?

[XiKeiyaZI]

So the previous owner informed me that he thinks that the car had a Wally 255 installed in it. There is no AFPR on this car.. and I know that the wally 255 will over-run the stock FPR. Here are my questions.

Can such a high-flowing pump cause any damage to the fuel system?
What are the usual effects on the engine with a wally 255 and now AFPR?

I am more running a tad bit lean... but something I noticed last night is that with my windows down I can almost make myself believe that I smell the very faint scent of fuel. I've noticed that gas mileage isn't exactly the greatest in this vehicle... and when I take my foot off the gas, the car backfires like it's starving for fuel.

What I'm wondering is if a connection in the fuel line has cracked and is sucking in air/leaking fuel? Is this possible? What's the best way to check/repair this? This is just a hunch. I've also noticed over the past few days that under my car once I get out of boost and start allowing it to cool down.. small traces of fluid will drip and pool on the ground. I normally check coolant after this(which is there) and by the time I check again it's all mostly evaporated. Due to the high temps here lately.. I've disregarded it... but then I recalled that fuel vaporizes rather quickly.

Any ideas are appreciated. And a question I'd like answered is - Would a leak in the fuel system cause enough of an effect on our cars as to cause rapid backfire in the car on decel?

 

[eeeewidner]

Check for boost leaks.....

 

[habitatguy187]

Check for boost leaks.....

Boost leaks make you run rich.


For starters, can you here it running when your turn signal and headlights are on? If you can't hear it oscillating then it's probably not a 255.

 

[Misterbeechy]

backfires are usually rich exhaust igniting with the hotter exhaust coming behind it.. usually if enough fuel it will cause a big pop and a arm size flame shoot out

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

What I don't understand.. is that I'm not running rich at all. There is no smell of gas from the exhaust and the plugs are also burning hot.. not building up black soot or burning black.

So... I don't know what the issue could be.

All boost leaks have been found and fixed. There are, if any, small pinholes around the system that likely wouldn't open up unless I was boosting over 30PSI...

So...why would I run rich... if my plugs are burning white? =/ And I don't mean they are burning SUPER LEAN.. just enough to show that they are getting just a tad more air than they should due to the 14B installed..=/

 

[LiquidX]

Didn't we discuss this already


You are running leaner because the 14b flows more CF/M than the T25. A 1g doesn't run lean because it's fuel maps are made for the turbo while the 2g ECU is made from the lower flow T25. Running a little leaner is fine and you shouldn't fret about it if all you did was put on a 14b.

If you really want to know what's going on, put on a wideband and get some logging done


Edit: Should have read a bit more

Have you double checked your timing at all and do you have a 1g CAS installed?
A back fire is caused when fuel is ignited while the exhaust valves are open allowing the combustion process to exit into the exhaust system and out the rear.

Also when you let off the pedal your ECU cuts off fuel flow into the cylinders. I'm assuming it turns off the injectors. This was a question I had myself after putting in a wideband and seeing that it would read 21AFR on decel.

 

[97-gst]

Save up some money and get a dsmlink.

 

[brian9397gsx]

no harder than it is i think i would pull up the back seat and pull the pump and see for sure what fuel pump you have. with that being said there have been some good points being made honestly your 255 is not gonna pressurize your system to the point of something leaking assuming your fuel system is in decent shape. a fuel leak no matter the size is pretty notice able. get under look around if nothings wet your good. 255 s are loud, i have a 190 thats not rewired and i can here mine faintly whine with my headlights on and radio off my friend had a 255 you can hear at all times running good luck

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Didn't we discuss this already


You are running leaner because the 14b flows more CF/M than the T25. A 1g doesn't run lean because it's fuel maps are made for the turbo while the 2g ECU is made from the lower flow T25. Running a little leaner is fine and you shouldn't fret about it if all you did was put on a 14b.

If you really want to know what's going on, put on a wideband and get some logging done


Edit: Should have read a bit more

Have you double checked your timing at all and do you have a 1g CAS installed?
A back fire is caused when fuel is ignited while the exhaust valves are open allowing the combustion process to exit into the exhaust system and out the rear.

Also when you let off the pedal your ECU cuts off fuel flow into the cylinders. I'm assuming it turns off the injectors. This was a question I had myself after putting in a wideband and seeing that it would read 21AFR on decel.

Hah! You hit a good point.

Alright. Well... I can't hear the pump.. so I assume it's NOT a wally 255. Everything looks good under the car.. think I still have a coolant leak somewhere. =/

I'm glad you opened my eyes as to what causes backfire. I honestly had no idea. I checked the mechanical timing and found nothing out of time..but as for Installing a 1g CAS? I have no idea how to go about that. I have a spare 90 CAS... could I use that? I'm sure there are a few wire splices that I have to do to make it work.. but exactly how hard is it? I'd love to be able to adjust ignition timing.. because it honestly feels like if it were retarded/advanced Juuuust a tad.. it'd be golden and run soo much better. My GSX used to do this when it was retarded too much. I finally got a timing light and advanced the timing to 3* and it ran like a champ.

Hahah.. but yeah, we discussed the 14B v T-25 thing, but this is just more and more turning into a weird issue. Everything is tight.. no leaks, vaccum is at 19-20...=/ So.. yeah. I've been scouring the Classifieds to see if I can find Link and possibly talk someone down on it as I don't need the ECU.. but gawd...

 

[gusu]

Save up some money and get a dsmlink.

Probably not the best advice for him.

If he is having problems with a fuel pump and does not yet understand the flow rate change from the T-25 to the 14b think of all of the issues he'd have with link.

 

[ramsack]

A bigger turbo will make the car run no leaner. That's what a MAFS takes care of. If you are running SD then fueling would change. And a 2g has a more robust fuel system than a 1g, by the fact they run 43.5 psi of fuel pressure, vs. the 36.3 psi of a 1g. You can still run rich and not foul out plugs, and as for the backfiring when you let off the gas pedal, when you do this and you are over 1500 rpm, there is NO fuel being supplied by the injectors anymore. Any backfiring that results means it is burning off residual fuel from before when it was being injected, or that you have a leaky injector. And your car will run the same with an AFPR vs. a stock regulator, granted it is set at the right fuel pressure. I would check the fuel pressure, regulators can be very inconsistent.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Probably not the best advice for him.

If he is having problems with a fuel pump and does not yet understand the flow rate change from the T-25 to the 14b think of all of the issues he'd have with link.

I know the differences between the T-25 and the 14b. o.- As stated above, I had already looked into it to see about the changes of the CFM between the two. Simply because I ask for experienced advie on something before I take the first notion of "this is wrong" and go out and buy something, does not mean that I am incapable of adapting to a learning curve.

I've read, in close detail, on what ECMLink has to offer. I've also been sqaving towards it, but as I've stated many times.. many of us can't just go out and drop several hundred dollars at will. Before I do any further upgrades to this vehicle, I am entirely set on making sure that it is in top condition. I don't blindly shoot for a goal without making sure that everything that supports it is in working order without evidence that would suggest failure.

I have never, hands on, installed a 255 FP and was smiply looking for advice from others who have. I know what I was told, though, I haven't had the time to pull the pump and look for myself. The car does not have an AFPR and I immediately knew that if a 255 was installed that this was bad.

So I suppose my current goal is to pull the injectors, clean them out, and install a 1G CAS. I'll mark this as resolved as my question was answered.

 

[PieEyedPiper]

While you may enjoy the adjustability of the 1g CAS, I just don't think that adjusting your timing beyond factory spec is going to clear this up for you. I'm sure you know this, but I just wanted to reinforce it.
Make a log. For all we know, your 02 sensor stopped cycling and is causing a rich condition - thus the backfires and poor mileage. A log will tell us.

It also dawned on me that you're likely resourceful enough to have already concluded that making a log might shed some light on this. This tells me you don't have the means and with link being hundreds and pocketlogger(discontinued) being $100+, that solution isn't a great idea either. If you're really in a jam you can maybe borrow my logging gear to help you narrow this down while still being able to save money for a tuning solution. If you're interested hit me with a PM and we can discuss.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

While you may enjoy the adjustability of the 1g CAS, I just don't think that adjusting your timing beyond factory spec is going to clear this up for you. I'm sure you know this, but I just wanted to reinforce it.
Make a log. For all we know, your 02 sensor stopped cycling and is causing a rich condition - thus the backfires and poor mileage. A log will tell us.

It also dawned on me that you're likely resourceful enough to have already concluded that making a log might shed some light on this. This tells me you don't have the means and with link being hundreds and pocketlogger(discontinued) being $100+, that solution isn't a great idea either. If you're really in a jam you can maybe borrow my logging gear to help you narrow this down while still being able to save money for a tuning solution. If you're interested hit me with a PM and we can discuss.

I'm... entirely in Awe at the sheer brilliance that is this community....

"And so God Touched the Internet and Said ' Let there be DSMtuners.com' "

 

[LiquidX]

..but as for Installing a 1g CAS? I have no idea how to go about that. I have a spare 90 CAS... could I use that? I'm sure there are a few wire splices that I have to do to make it work.. but exactly how hard is it?

I was merely asking if you had one installed already since it's adjustable for timing unlike the 2g CAS.

It wouldn't be too hard to do, but it can cause you to get a CEL for misfires as you are putting on a less accurate sensor on in place of the cam and crank sensor.

If you need help with this let me know, I just woke up and am getting ready for work.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

I was merely asking if you had one installed already since it's adjustable for timing unlike the 2g CAS.

It wouldn't be too hard to do, but it can cause you to get a CEL for misfires as you are putting on a less accurate sensor on in place of the cam and crank sensor.

If you need help with this let me know, I just woke up and am getting ready for work.

Any information would be appreciated on it.

....And I'm doing the same... strongly considering staying home, but.. I doubt I will. I never do. -_-;

 

[dsm-onster]

While you may enjoy the adjustability of the 1g CAS, I just don't think that adjusting your timing beyond factory spec is going to clear this up for you. I'm sure you know this, but I just wanted to reinforce it.
Make a log. For all we know, your 02 sensor stopped cycling and is causing a rich condition - thus the backfires and poor mileage. A log will tell us.

It also dawned on me that you're likely resourceful enough to have already concluded that making a log might shed some light on this. This tells me you don't have the means and with link being hundreds and pocketlogger(discontinued) being $100+, that solution isn't a great idea either. If you're really in a jam you can maybe borrow my logging gear to help you narrow this down while still being able to save money for a tuning solution. If you're interested hit me with a PM and we can discuss.

He can convert to the 1998-1999 ecu which
1) uses a cas mounted on the rear of the cam like a 1g (swapping in a 1g adjustable cas can be found on RRE's website. ),
2)is reflashable (no need for eprom: costs as much as an EvoScan logger cable to retune),
3) plus is a fast enough ecu for EvoScan logging software (which next to the link logger is the best logger out there for 2g cars).

He can sell the 1995 eprom ecu in his car after getting all these and get ALL his money back for the 1998-1999 ecu, tatrics cable, and the EvoScan/ECUFlash software.

Look up "EvoScan", "CeddyMod", "ECUFlash".

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

He can convert to the 1998-1999 ecu which
1) uses a cas mounted on the rear of the cam like a 1g (no misfire codes when swapping in a 1g adjustable cas),
2)is reflashable (no need for eprom: costs as much as an EvoScan logger cable),
3) plus is a fast enough ecu for EvoScan logging software (which next to the link logger is the best logger out there for 2g cars).

He can sell the 1995 eprom ecu in his car after getting all these and get ALL his money back for the 1998-1999 ecu, tatrics cable, and the EvoScan/ECUFlash software.

Look up "EvoScan", "CeddyMod", "ECUFlash".

I'm going to look this up now.

Thanks for the info!

 

[dsm-onster]

No misfire code: You have a 2g with a crank sensor. I believe you just keep the crank sensor plug plugged into the crank sensor pigtail and don't tie the blue wire from the cranksensor harness to the 1g cas like pictured. This is for guys who swap in 6bolt motors with no provision for a crank sensor.

***I had a thought. You will have to swap the firing order of the injectors/sparkplugs when swapping from a 1995-96 ecu to a 1997-1999 ecu. But running the blue wire on the cranksensor harness to the 1g cas inverts the signal. . . I wonder if you can just run that wire and swap in the 1997-1999 ecu without changing the firing order of the injectors/sparkplugs.

******the 1997 ecu is not reflashable. Only the 1998-1999.

 

[snowborder714]

I'd say to make time to pull the pump and look. Doesn't take much time at all.
2G FWD fuel pump install

If you have one, great! Then you need to get an AFPR. FWIW, I purchased my car with a 255 and no AFPR. I ran it like this for at least half a year and didn't see any major issues. Granted, I didn't have a wideband or logger, but I see no lasting effects now that I have one on. No, it's not a good idea to do it, but I've read of a few people who have ran without one in a pinch and didn't have any major issues.

Then while you have the pump out, rewire it.
2G DSM FWD Fuel Pump Rewire Instructions

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

No misfire code: You have a 2g with a crank sensor. I believe you just keep the crank sensor plug plugged into the crank sensor pigtail and don't tie the blue wire from the cranksensor harness to the 1g cas like pictured. This is for guys who swap in 6bolt motors with no provision for a crank sensor.

***I had a thought. You will have to swap the firing order of the injectors/sparkplugs when swapping from a 1995-96 ecu to a 1997-1999 ecu. But running the blue wire on the cranksensor harness to the 1g cas inverts the signal. . . I wonder if you can just run that wire and swap in the 1997-1999 ecu without changing the firing order of the injectors/sparkplugs.

******the 1997 ecu is not reflashable. Only the 1998-1999.

I've read about inverting the firing order, and I'm pretty sure I'm not one of the guys who forgets " now.. which wire goes where..." because I label any questionable wire on my car. So -shrug- I know it's recommended to swap the wires (not the sparplug wires) so as you don't forget the order they need to be in, say, if you pull all the plug wires off at once, but is it necessary?

Now, I've been reading over these flashable ECU's and other things since I read this post, and I'm VAGUELY familiar with them... but what is the advantage of it other than Evoscan and ECUflash? From what I saw, it allows you to set rev limits, stutter, NLTS, and other moderately neat things like that.. but I take it that there is no way to modify airflow, ignition timing, or anything like that?

I'd really love the full-blown control that ECMLink gives you.. but again, that price is horrible no matter how many times I look at it. =/

What's the estimated cost of switching to this setup? I have no idea what 98-99 ECU's go for.. Remember... I'm used to 1Gs.

 

[dsm-onster]

CeddyMod. . . I think Ceddy has gotten to the global fuel control, and the timing and fuel maps. So you now have the ability to alter your timing/fuel curve and your injector size and deadtime as well with the 1998-1999 ecu. The 1995-96 ecu is terribly slow with EvoScan. If you want the best logger outside of link for the 2g car, EvoScan is what to use with a 1997-1999 ecu. Since you should run a 1997-1999 ecu to get the best performance out of EvoScan, you should get the 1998-1999 ecu since they are reflashable. You have a 1995 eprom (reprogrammable) ecu you can sell and basically get all your money back for purchasing a great logger plus you retain the capability of an ecu that can be reprogrammed by getting a reflashable 1998-99 ecu. You can sell the eprom ecu for +$200. The 1998-1999 ecu can be had for $100 and the right cable and software for evoscan/ecuflash is $130. Just thinking about the most cost effective way for you to get what you need and not lose what you have.

I guess swapping to an adjustable cas is rather pointless when you have timing control with your logger cable that runs evoscan and ecuflash.

 

[Jonman409]

For what you need why not just v3lite? ECMTuning, Inc.
You already have an eprom, just swing $345. it'll do everything you need it to for now and just upgrade later, if you even needed to.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

CeddyMod. . . I think Ceddy has gotten to the global fuel control, and the timing and fuel maps. So you now have the ability to alter your timing/fuel curve and your injector size and deadtime as well with the 1998-1999 ecu. The 1995-96 ecu is terribly slow with EvoScan. If you want the best logger outside of link for the 2g car, EvoScan is what to use with a 1997-1999 ecu. Since you should run a 1997-1999 ecu to get the best performance out of EvoScan, you should get the 1998-1999 ecu since they are reflashable. You have a 1995 eprom (reprogrammable) ecu you can sell and basically get all your money back for purchasing a great logger plus you retain the capability of an ecu that can be reprogrammed by getting a reflashable 1998-99 ecu. You can sell the eprom ecu for +$200. The 1998-1999 ecu can be had for $100 and the right cable and software for evoscan/ecuflash is $130. Just thinking about the most cost effective way for you to get what you need and not lose what you have.

Oh it's apparent, and I appreciate all of the great advice I've gotten in this thread which started off as a possible FP issue. Haha. I'm very pleased with all of the information I'm getting through this. ^^

So basically... I can purchase a flashable ECU+The cable/software for around $200-$250.. and then sell the eprom ECU for $200ish, and be out only a miniscule amount of cash. I'll gain logging ability, and apparently the ability to modify a/f trims and ignition timing? Well... that sounds like the route to go, cause in the background I won't be so desperate for ECMLink and everyone normally bundles link with an ECU anyway and I've seen them go for $500ish.

^^ This sounds like the perfect route. I take it that I'm assuming correctly on everything I just relayed above from my limited knowledge on the subject?

 

[dsm-onster]

^^^V3 lite a very good option too. Very cost effective. Just not quite free . But you'll be better off in the long run for sure. Yes, if you get tired of "CeddyMod", then you can grab a used full version of link including the eprom ecu for $500-600 from what I've seen. . . But bear in mind. I was hard up for cash after getting link for sure. Yet, once I purchased it and had at my disposal all the features, plus the ease of use, I was VERY glad of the purchase. I wish it were my very first modification to my car. It's ideal for the beginner to tune his car, then as you get more experienced you can get into more "complicated" forms of tuning, such as working with the manipulation inf individual cells in the 3d table instead of sliders and get into speeddensity and run a higher airflow counting evo maf. All with v3 lite.

For reference, one member did away with his random misfire code by running the 2g cranksensor along with the 1g cas: click. I suspect you can just wire the red wires together and the black wires together with the 2g cas plug to the 1g pigtail and leave the 2g cranksensor harness completely alone. Just also wire the blue 2g cas plug wire to the white 1g cas wire in the pigtail like the RRE site shows. But this is moot now.