Walbro install problem

[deflator]

I am trying to install a Walbro 255hp in my 95 tsi AWD, but I cannot get the old pump out. The bottom fitting for the fuel line is impossible to get off, even with flare wrenches and PB blaster. The 14mm flare wrench is somehow stripping the nut. The full strength of 2 men isn't working to break the 14mm nut from the 19mm one, so what are my options at this point? Heating it is out of the question. Is the thread going to opposite way?

I am using the vfaq instructions: http://www.vfaq.com/mods/pump-WB-2GAWD.html

 

[oldman]

Situate the two wrenches so you can squeeze it together with the palm of your hands. If one of the nuts is already stripped, use the same technique on the top fitting.

 

[2gGSX]

If it's really as rusted out as it sounds, it may be one of those cases where taking the car to a shop and letting them deal with it may not be a bad idea.

So far that and replacing an axle hub assembly have been the two jobs I haven't tackled myself. In fact, the shop ended up using a plasma cutter to cut off the half shaft because the hub assembly was so stuck on.

 

[DSMopar]

vice grips... flare wrenches are only minimally better than just a plain open wrench... Don't ask me why but I never have any luck with them if a regular open couldn't do the job.

 

[oldman]

vice grips... flare wrenches are only minimally better than just a plain open wrench... Don't ask me why but I never have any luck with them if a regular open couldn't do the job.

A pipe wrench (for plumbing) is even better than vice grip.

 

[deflator]

A pipe wrench (for plumbing) is even better than vice grip.

I'll get one of those and give it another go. If that doesn't work, guess I'll just take it to a shop. Thanks

 

[DSMunknown]

At least you'll know to use a little bit of Anti-Sieze when re-installing the fittings for "the next time". (Hey, you never know.)

 

[deflator]

At least you'll know to use a little bit of Anti-Sieze when re-installing the fittings for "the next time". (Hey, you never know.)

don't jinx me!

 

[Boosted98gsx]

I went ahead and replaced the OEM rubber line with a 6an line (cut off the hard line out of the pump housing and welded a bung there instead) to avoid having to worry about this in the future. Anodized aluminum ftw.

 

[deflator]

Okay, the bottom fitting rounded all to hell, so I tried the top one with a pipe wrench. I was able to break the 19mm bolt loose, now I'm having trouble understanding this fitting.. Is the 14mm bolt part of the hardline? I'm pretty sure I was supposed to break the 14mm loose, not the 19mm, but that the way it went. The pump assembly also shook loose when the 19mm let go, so its no help with bracing, so I have zero leverage at this point. I suck at this

I could just unscrew the 19mm one at this point, but that would mean destroying the rubber hose.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Okay, the bottom fitting rounded all to hell, so I tried the top one with a pipe wrench. I was able to break the 19mm bolt loose, now I'm having trouble understanding this fitting.. Is the 14mm bolt part of the hardline? I'm pretty sure I was supposed to break the 14mm loose, not the 19mm, but that the way it went. The pump assembly also shook loose when the 19mm let go, so its no help with bracing, so I have zero leverage at this point. I suck at this

I could just unscrew the 19mm one at this point, but that would mean destroying the rubber hose.

the 14mm is part of the oem hard line, but it spins freely on the hard line. You are supposed to spin the 14 out of the 19.

 

[deflator]

The 14mm was so frozen, I ended up twisting the hardline to the assembly fighting with it, now its warped. Lovely.

I guess I'm going the route you used Boosted, but I'm going to have to take it someplace to get a bung welded to the assembly. Could you explain how you connected the SS line to the other end of the hardline?

Or could I get away with regular rubber line with fasteners, and somehow fix the hardline coming out of the fuel pump assembly?

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Well there is a metric adapter to get -6an to the OEM hardline 14mm. But now that you've warped the hard line, it is no longer worth using since you have a choke point in the fluidity of your fuel.

Time to go -6 to the rail (or -6 to a bosch 044 inline, then -6 to the rail).

 

[deflator]

Well there is a metric adapter to get -6an to the OEM hardline 14mm. But now that you've warped the hard line, it is no longer worth using since you have a choke point in the fluidity of your fuel.

Time to go -6 to the rail (or -6 to a bosch 044 inline, then -6 to the rail).

I warped the hardline connected to the assembly, not the lower one. So if I can only get the lower fitting off, I could use a metric adapter.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

Oh, yea the upper fitting really doesn't move very well. You want to disconnect the fuel pump assembly from the lower 19/14 connection...

vfaq.com anyone?

 

[deflator]

I used the vfaq, the bottom fitting is just so frozen even pipe wrenches wont get it loose. I wish I'd known why it recommended not using the top fitting

 

[Boosted98gsx]

I have never been able to disconnect the top fitting.

 

[oldman]

You can also look around in classifieds for part outs, might be easier to just get a replacement assembly now that you got the top fitting off.

 

[Boosted98gsx]

I had a hell of a time trying to stop a pinhole fuel leak around the 6an bung that was welded in. If you don't need to, I wouldn't suggest doing it, but it will leave room in the future to upgrade to an additional in line pump.

 

[deflator]

Hmm... well is my assembly definitely shot? The top hardline is just warped a little where it makes its final curve before the pump. I twisted it back into shape best I could. Or I could just cut it off before the first bend, leaving about an inch left to connect a rubber hose to.

What I want to do is -6an to the bottom fitting, but I can't find a -6 an male to 14mm female fitting, or any kind of -6an to 14mm coupler. So is it new assembly or -6an to the AFPR now?

 

[DSMopar]

Try a vice grip... it is better in cases like this where the lines are small and there's not alot of room to get at them...

 

[No_Skillz]

Hmm... well is my assembly definitely shot? The top hardline is just warped a little where it makes its final curve before the pump. I twisted it back into shape best I could. Or I could just cut it off before the first bend, leaving about an inch left to connect a rubber hose to.

What I want to do is -6an to the bottom fitting, but I can't find a -6 an male to 14mm female fitting, or any kind of -6an to 14mm coupler. So is it new assembly or -6an to the AFPR now?

If you warped the hardline coming off the assembly for the fuel pump, it's best to get a new one. Keep in mind that everything from that point on is holding alot of pressurized fuel. Try mitsubishi graveyard.

You'll still need to get the rubber hose disconnected, so keep working at the bottom fitting... if it really just won't go, you can check out some of the full fuel line replacement kits offered by some of the vendors. I believe Import Evolution has a new kit that replaces everything from the fuel filter back.

 

[deflator]

Okay, spent the day visiting plumbing stores, and I ended up with some compression fittings that are within a hair of the right size, and copper hose. I'm going to cut the hardline off at the bend on the assembly, fit a 45* fitting onto that, then copper hose to the cut bottom hardline. Good solution?

 

[No_Skillz]

It'll be tough since you'll need to guarantee no leaking even in the long term. It's going to be a PITA since you'll need to jack the car up and also remove your rear seats and open up the seatboard every time you want to make a visual inspection. If you can make it work, then go for it.

 

[deflator]

Okay, after much more research, I'm just going to get a -6AN bulkhead fitting, insert that into the pump assembly, and do -6AN to the bottom fitting where I can put a -6AN male to 14mm female connector. Now I just have to get the bottom fitting apart still

Thanks to all who contributed