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2G Using 0ga CCA wire for battery relocation.

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jakk220

10+ Year Contributor
1,319
312
Nov 13, 2010
Akron, Ohio
At the time of purchasing 0ga wire for my battery relocation, I did not know the difference between CCA wire and OFC wire. It turns out that the wire that I bought is CCA. From the pictures in the comments and reviews it appears to be a good quality CCA wire. I just wanted to see if anyone else is running the stuff with out any issues or voltage drops before I install it. I also wanted to make sure that it is safe to run. Thanks.

Here is the relocation diagram that I will be using for the most part. The only thing I might do differently is run a 4ga ground from the starter to the battery.

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Here is the wire that I bought. 1/0ga 50ft.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSYF06Y/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
 
You will be fine with this. As for the starter all the way to the battery for a ground, you can, but you can simply use a good chassis ground as well. 4-gauge for sure is going to be a good choice. If you over-work 8-gauge it can get pretty hot, especially if you have a poor grounding point.
 
You will be fine with this. As for the starter all the way to the battery for a ground, you can, but you can simply use a good chassis ground as well. 4-gauge for sure is going to be a good choice. If you over-work 8-gauge it can get pretty hot, especially if you have a poor grounding point.

Awesome thanks. I always appreciate your input. Since the alternator is going to have a separate wire running to the battery, I figured that the CCA wire would be fine. If it was all running on a single 0ga back to the battery, then I would have been really skeptical.

I was worried about having a slow crank speed which was why I decided to go all the way back to the battery with the starter ground. I might just try a chassis ground and see what happens first and then go from there.

Also with this set up, if I'm thinking of it correctly, I would not need a fused distribution block right? The one that I have is not fused but I think it would still work. Also does the alternator fuse need to be as close to the alternator as possible? Or can I put it in the trunk?
 
You can put the alternator fuse wherever. In my application I relocated the engine fuse box to the interior of the car and redid all the wiring. You shouldn't have slow cranking if you have a good chassis ground for the starter.

I don't know why you would have a fused distribution block running to your fuse box; you should still use a fuse for the starter ideally.
 
That is the exact setup I did and works great.

The starter has a fuse that is built in to the distribution block. Essentially has two inputs with three outputs and all outputs are bridged by a 150 amp fuse.

Only thing I didn't do was run a 4ga wire to ground the starter, I was always under the assumption the starter was ground through the mounting points on the bell housing?
 
You can put the alternator fuse wherever. In my application I relocated the engine fuse box to the interior of the car and redid all the wiring. You shouldn't have slow cranking if you have a good chassis ground for the starter.

I don't know why you would have a fused distribution block running to your fuse box; you should still use a fuse for the starter ideally.
Awesome. Thanks. Hopefully the weather will be warm this week and I can start diving into it. There is no fuse for the starter from the factory though is there?
 
That is the exact setup I did and works great.

The starter has a fuse that is built in to the distribution block. Essentially has two inputs with three outputs and all outputs are bridged by a 150 amp fuse.

Only thing I didn't do was run a 4ga wire to ground the starter, I was always under the assumption the starter was ground through the mounting points on the bell housing?

There is a wire that runs from the starter that grounds to the bell housing. But the additional ground wont hurt.
 
Awesome. Thanks. Hopefully the weather will be warm this week and I can start diving into it. There is no fuse for the starter from the factory though is there?

If I recall, there is a ground harness connect that goes back to the fuse box harness for the starter, along with the ground wire to the transmission bellhousing bolt in factory form. The power is direct from battery, and then the starter solenoid power goes back to the MPI relay / ignition switch (black / yellow wire that goes back to cross-shaped plug under dash by left side of steering column, and then wiring goes to ignition switch) which should be also on the ignition fuse in the fuse box.

It's been a while since I tore down a whole harness.
 
If I recall, there is a ground harness connect that goes back to the fuse box harness for the starter, along with the ground wire to the transmission bellhousing bolt in factory form. The power is direct from battery, and then the starter solenoid power goes back to the MPI relay / ignition switch (black / yellow wire that goes back to cross-shaped plug under dash by left side of steering column, and then wiring goes to ignition switch) which should be also on the ignition fuse in the fuse box.

It's been a while since I tore down a whole harness.

Gotcha. I'm using the factory fuse box set up, so I'm sure if I just run the power wire the same way as factory I'll be okay. I haven't had the balls yet to attempt to tear down my harness and rewire / tuck everything. I'm not that great with wiring TBH.
 
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