underhood temps still hot after header wrap

[Haase]

I would have merged this wit my smoking after header wrap thread, but i don't know how... so after i installed my header wrap (and it stopped smoking) my underhood temps still tend to get too hot for my liking, after driving through town and then coming to an idle, my heat gauge still rises above halfway mark to make me feel uncomfortable. It goes back down once i start driving and running air through it tho. I'm going to make my own custom heat shield sometime so that will hopefully work but apart from that anyone have any suggestions???

 

[2GRick]

I would have merged this wit my smoking after header wrap thread, but i don't know how... so after i installed my header wrap (and it stopped smoking) my underhood temps still tend to get too hot for my liking, after driving through town and then coming to an idle, my heat gauge still rises above halfway mark to make me feel uncomfortable. It goes back down once i start driving and running air through it tho. I'm going to make my own custom heat shield sometime so that will hopefully work but apart from that anyone have any suggestions???

With a 180 thermostate my radiator runs at 188 and the engines at 218. I would not just trust my dash guage. I bought a laser temp guage form harbor freight ($20) Hope this helps.

 

[BigBeans]

Stock radiator and fans?

What ratio is your coolant mixed at?

What's the thermostat temp?

 

[Haase]

Stock radiator and fans?

What ratio is your coolant mixed at?

What's the thermostat temp?

yes stock radiator and fans, my coolant is a 50-50 mix (Pre-mixed solution)
as for the actual thermostat temp, i honestly don't know. the only thing that i do know is that my stock heat gauge needle will go about 3/4 of the way to the top at times. (I know that its not the most accurate but its still a little unsettling) how do i test the thermostat temp??? -sorry if thats a dumb question

 

[94_TSi]

yes stock radiator and fans, my coolant is a 50-50 mix (Pre-mixed solution)
as for the actual thermostat temp, i honestly don't know. the only thing that i do know is that my stock heat gauge needle will go about 3/4 of the way to the top at times. (I know that its not the most accurate but its still a little unsettling) how do i test the thermostat temp??? -sorry if thats a dumb question

Pull the stat out and see waht temp it says on it, should be 180 degrees. While its out replace it they are cheap.

 

[Haase]

Pull the stat out and see waht temp it says on it, should be 180 degrees. While its out replace it they are cheap.

oh ok, it is a new thermostat tho, i replaced it myself about 5 months ago

 

[BigBeans]

oh ok, it is a new thermostat tho, i replaced it myself about 5 months ago

Are you sure the fans are working?

It seems the issue is only at idle when you don't have airflow.

 

[Haase]

Are you sure the fans are working?

It seems the issue is only at idle when you don't have airflow.

hmmm, you know ###, i honestly didn't think of that , ill run it for a bit today and check to see if their going when i come to a stop. thanks a lot! ill post the results a little later then

 

[david-b]

Do you have A/C still installed? I would personally wire a fan up to a manual switch. Or if using the stock fans, buy some slimline higher powered ones. Should increase flow signnificantly

 

[bullettdsm]

Are you sure the fans are working?

It seems the issue is only at idle when you don't have airflow.

Start here^^^

MB

 

[Haase]

just a lil update, the fans ARE working, and yes, i do still have my AC hooked up. about the slimline fans tho, where can i get them and about how much do they run for??? cause i also noticed yesterday that the heat guage does move up even when i am driving, just not as much or as fast as when im at an idle

 

[tec_41]

I wouldn't bother upgrading the fans...you'd just be trying to mask the problem :S

Maybe start fresh- New thermostat, flush the coolant, burp the system, check/change the coolant temp sensor, and see what happens!

 

[brian9397gsx]

hows your radiator? take the brackets off and look at the front see if there is junk caught in it (leaves) blocking airflow. also you could have junk blocking some of the cooling passages in the radiator rust comes to mind. i would try flushing it then back flushing it good luck

 

[Haase]

thanks for all the responses guys, but do you think it could just be that its all the heat still coming off the header? cause i had problems wit coolant when i first bought the car so i removed the radiator, cleaned it, flushed the coolant out and replaced the thermostat, ever since i put the header in i have had these problems wit the heat so that leads me to think that the header wrap isn't doing crap for holding heat in. I'm really good wit welding (In fact, that's what im going to go to college for...) so i was thinking on making a custom fit heat shield for it, think that would help???

 

[Locke]

A heat shield could help, yes, but your problem is uncommon. I would do as the others suggested and check for airflow and water-flow problems, then check other things such as compression.

 

[Silver99OZ]

When you replaced your thermostat last did you install it correctly into the housing? There is usually an indicator mark or a small hole on the thermostat that needs to be at the top when you put it in.

 

[krackit]

i would say it's not due to your headers. it's something with your coolant. I have non-heat treated headers on now (wrapping them soon) and dont have cooling issues under the hood. check rad, fluids, thermostat....i had a work truck doing stuff like that. if you run at high speeds on the highway does the temp go up? i would guess a bad rad...

 

[Silver99OZ]

Same thing here, I have an unwrapped header and I have yet to have any overheating issues. So you need to go over your cooling system to find the problem. Start with the thermostat, replace it with a new one. The stock temp for our cars (420A) is 190deg, I would put in a 180deg, thats what I have in my car now. Then check the rest of the system as the others stated.

 

[BK85]

You might check your water pump.

I was running a little high at idle and I started to hear some ticking from the motor, than finally it started to drip water.

Replaced the water pump and now, with unwrapped header and no heat shield the gauge sits at half, whether at idle or full out.

Just a thought.

BK85

 

[bo0st]

dude you got headers what do you expect? It's known that headers cause a lot of under the hood heat & also it's known that header wraps don't help out too much.

You should always be at about half anyways so that doesn't sound bad to me

 

[19eagle95talon]

im having the same problem right now, i just replaced head gasket, thermostat, water pump, did a flush, and ive still got white smoke pouring out of the exhaust and can not figure out why its still doing it.

 

[Shake_Zulla]

im having the same problem right now, i just replaced head gasket, thermostat, water pump, did a flush, and ive still got white smoke pouring out of the exhaust and can not figure out why its still doing it.

What kind of head gasket did you get and did you have the head and block machined flat or check to see if either are warped?

 

[BogusSVO]

Hasse, install an aftermarket temp gauge, so you know what your coolent temp is.

Now with a warmer engine you have better thermal effiecenty from the air/fuel mix and less wear on the block.

If you run the engine at 220* you will be fine.

Water boils at 212* @ sea level.

You increase the boil over point by adding pressure to the coolent system, IE the rad cap

For every lb of pressure the cap holds you increase the boil point by 3*

So if you have a good rad cap rated at 13lbs x 3*=39*

39* + 212* = 251* is your true over heating point

Rad caps need tested and/or replaced every other year as a rule of thumb.

When was the last time you had yours tested/replaced?

Headder wrap will help hold in some of the heat in the exhaust, but it will not help control hunder hood temp or do anything for coolent temps.

But from what you have discribed, coolent temps raise at long idles, and cools down when driving is normal on any car.

im having the same problem right now, i just replaced head gasket, thermostat, water pump, did a flush, and ive still got white smoke pouring out of the exhaust and can not figure out why its still doing it.

How much have you drove it since you replaced the hg?

You may still have coolent in the exhaust that is burning off.

How did you clean the HG surfaces?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/413772-how-clean-head-gasket-surface.html

Did you have the head pressure tested?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...how-aluminum-head-pressure-tested-cracks.html

Did you check the head for warp?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

Was the head milled? If yes, How was it surfaced?
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

it should look like the surface here.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html

 

[eclipsekid1013]

I would agree flush the system new stat. And if thT doesn't help make your self a nice heat shield for your header.

 

[9!'clipseDOHC]

Bogus beat me to it but just to expand. You guys are getting underhood temps and coolant temps confused.

• Coolant temp: The temperature of the coolant circulating though your block and being cooled by the radiator.
• Underhood temp: The temperature in the engine bay, outside of the engine.

The temp gauge measures the coolant temps. High underhood temps can effect your coolant temps, but for the most part, a working coolant system should be able to dispel those effects. I would replace the cap, as Bogus mentioned, and make sure that your coolant system is properly bled. Getting all the air out of the system works wonders on its effectiveness.

Also a note on slim fans. Unless you get the top of the line (very expensive and not that slim) slim fans, the stock fans actually flow more air. The only reason you should be switching to slim fans is if the stock fans no longer fit, generally due to an oversized turbo, at which case you will have to work with a less then ideal set of fans. I had slim fans for a while and ended up going back to the stock main fan as an upgrade.