Turbo coolant line to block?

[Saturdee]

Alright so I'm in the process of finishing up my motor, and I noticed I don't have one the the lines that connects into the block with a banjo bolt. In the first picture you can see what is an alan head bolt in place of where I believe this line runs to. In the second picture is the line I have, not sure if it is the correct line or not. Just transferred my stuff from another garage into mine and more than likely am missing things. Any help would be great!

The alan bolt in the first picture is right behind the turbo, on the passenger side of the motor.

 

[Boomdeeze]

That line looks like the coolant line for the turbo but it doesn't connect to the block, it connects to the side of the head that your thermostat housing is on. There isn't suppose to be a line that runs to the block there in your first pic. I think someone may have added something there and then sealed it off?

 

[Saturdee]

That line looks like the coolant line for the turbo but it doesn't connect to the block, it connects to the side of the head that your thermostat housing is on. There isn't suppose to be a line that runs to the block there in your first pic. I think someone may have added something there and then sealed it off?

Not sure, I took out my motor and it was bone stock, putting it back in just the way it came out, as far as bolt ons at least. I did send my block/head out to get machined, so I'm not sure if they blocked it off?

Here this picture should kind of clear up what I'm trying to say. I know a hose connects to this front line, then what?

 

[bryanwheat]

That line looks like the coolant line for the turbo but it doesn't connect to the block, it connects to the side of the head that your thermostat housing is on. There isn't suppose to be a line that runs to the block there in your first pic. I think someone may have added something there and then sealed it off?

There most certainly is a line that goes to the block. It goes from the block to the turbo than from the turbo to the water pipe.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[954g63gst]

sorry but that banjo doesnt go on the head i believe it goes to the block i leaked coolant out the front of my block cause the machine shop threw away the bolts and shit i left on the block thanks dsm graveyard

 

[Boomdeeze]

There most certainly is a line that goes to the block. It goes from the block to the turbo than from the turbo to the water pipe.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Is it a 7 bolt thing? I have a 6 bolt swap and don't see that plug on mine.

 

[Saturdee]

There most certainly is a line that goes to the block. It goes from the block to the turbo than from the turbo to the water pipe.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

haha no way! I have this same exact picture on my phone. But still, that line looks different. And also, it looks like it connects to another smaller line, could be wrong though.

 

[007jimmy]

All 2gs have the turbo coolant feed from the block. 1g 6&7 bolt blocks do not have that hole.

 

[Saturdee]

Alright so I was right, it does go to the block. Now I just need to figure out where to get that line to the block, or find it at the other garage. And why in the world is it blocked off?

 

[boost97gst]

yes, there is a banjo fitting that goes right there on the block. I would kill to find out who got that alan bolt to block that off and where theygot it. I could not find that thread and pitch bolt ANYWHERE and had to remove the fitting, fill it with weld and grind it flat.(Im running a pte, no coolant needed).
Make absolutely sure to bag and tag that alan bolt in case you upgrade to a turbo that doesnt use coolant. You will thank yourself later.

Its blocked off cause you dont actually NEED coolant running to the turbo. It can and will work with just oil. Not sure how it effects it though. Im sure you could make your own fitting with a barbed end and some fittings and hevy duty hose. You dont have to have that specific metal banjo fitting

 

[Saturdee]

yes, there is a banjo fitting that goes right there on the block. I would kill to find out who got that alan bolt to block that off and where theygot it. I could not find that thread and pitch bolt ANYWHERE and had to remove the fitting, fill it with weld and grind it flat.(Im running a pte, no coolant needed).
Make absolutely sure to bag and tag that alan bolt in case you upgrade to a turbo that doesnt use coolant. You will thank yourself later.

Advice taken, thanks. Now in my second picture, the one of me holding the one line. Is that the wrong line or what?

P.S. I will join back in tomorrow after work. Gotta get up early, so I need to get to bed.

 

[bryanwheat]

Advice taken, thanks. Now in my second picture, the one of me holding the one line. Is that the wrong line or what?

P.S. I will join back in tomorrow after work. Gotta get up early, so I need to get to bed.

Yes that is the wrong line. That looks like a 1g line that bolts to the back of the turbo.

 

[red_devil]

yes, there is a banjo fitting that goes right there on the block. I would kill to find out who got that alan bolt to block that off and where theygot it. I could not find that thread and pitch bolt ANYWHERE and had to remove the fitting, fill it with weld and grind it flat.(Im running a pte, no coolant needed).
Make absolutely sure to bag and tag that alan bolt in case you upgrade to a turbo that doesnt use coolant. You will thank yourself later.

Its blocked off cause you dont actually NEED coolant running to the turbo. It can and will work with just oil. Not sure how it effects it though. Im sure you could make your own fitting with a barbed end and some fittings and hevy duty hose. You dont have to have that specific metal banjo fitting

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

But if your running a water cooled turbo then I would keep the lines.

 

[007jimmy]

Advice taken, thanks. Now in my second picture, the one of me holding the one line. Is that the wrong line or what?

P.S. I will join back in tomorrow after work. Gotta get up early, so I need to get to bed.

Yes that is the wrong banjo fitting for the block. Both the fittings for the turbo itself have a tab for a 10mm bolt that goes on the compressor housing for the T25. The banjo line from the block is simply a L shape with no tab for a bolt on it.

 

[19Eclipse90]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/385767-2g-block-coolant-line.html

 

[JusMX141]

1G engines feed the front water port on the turbo from the water pipe, 2G engines feed the front water port on the turbo from the block as discussed above. The rear water port on the turbo goes to the thermostat housing on both 1G and 2G cars. You must feed from a cold to hot coolant source or the water will not continue to move after you turn off the engine, and the coolant lines will be useless doing more harm than good by not allowing the heat to dissipate.

If you can't run the coolant lines properly (using a 2G water pipe and thermostat housing on a 1G block, perhaps), don't run them at all. It won't hurt the turbo one bit as long as you treat it as any other oil-only turbo would be treated (properly turbo-timed or allowed to idle before hot shutdown).

 

[tsigreg]

I destroyed a strick turbo by not running coolant to it it got so hot the extra holes from the coolant were steaming I would find somewere to tap into for coolant just makes things easier or after market turbo even better

 

[Saturdee]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/385767-2g-block-coolant-line.html

Great link! Thanks a lot, I'll go get myself what's needed and hopefully finish up my motor here soon.

 

[19Eclipse90]

1G engines feed the front water port on the turbo from the water pipe, 2G engines feed the front water port on the turbo from the block as discussed above. The rear water port on the turbo goes to the thermostat housing on both 1G and 2G cars. You must feed from a cold to hot coolant source or the water will not continue to move after you turn off the engine, and the coolant lines will be useless doing more harm than good by not allowing the heat to dissipate.

Both generations return to the water pipe. The 1G feeds from the thermostat housing and the 2G from the engine block. Though it seems ass-backwards (feeding from a hotter source), the coolant temperature at either point will still be well below the core temperature of the turbo so it will still transfer heat.

The water pump pulls fluid from the water pipe and pushes it into the engine block. Physically, it does not make sense for the line off the water pipe to feed the turbo simply based on fluid flow characteristics. The pump will pull water from the orifices on the pipe running to the turbo just as much as it will pull from the lower radiator hose on a 1G and the thermostat housing on a 2G.

Great link! Thanks a lot, I'll go get myself what's needed and hopefully finish up my motor here soon.

You're quite welcome. Best of Luck!

 

[007jimmy]

So what system is better as far as keeping the turbo cooler? Im only asking because mine is blocked off right now but if it increases the life of the turbo itself I might reconsider.

 

[Saturdee]

Alright, so this stupid bolt hole is giving me the most difficult time. I went and got that hard banjo line that comes out of the block, as shown in above pictures. When I went to thread it in it was too small, and then I realized that there is another bolt that this bolt screws into. Went to the junkyard, grabbed on out of a 95 gsx, went home to finally move on and (hopefully) finish my motor, and of course the bolt that threads into the 95 block is too large for the hole on my 98 block. So the banjo bolt, nor the threaded bolt fit.

 

[19Eclipse90]

There's only one part number for the joint that the banjo bolt threads into; it is the same for all 2G turbo models.

The joint (OD) should be about 0.65-0.66" in diameter, the hole (ID) should be about 0.58-0.59" in diameter. Measure them to determine what isn't right.

 

[Saturdee]

There's only one part number for the joint that the banjo bolt threads into; it is the same for all 2G turbo models.

The joint (OD) should be about 0.65-0.66" in diameter, the hole (ID) should be about 0.58-0.59" in diameter. Measure them to determine what isn't right.

That doesn't make sense, there has to be two seperate joints. The joint the machine shop put in my block matches your specs, however the joint that I got out of the 95 gsx is a litle over .75" in diameter.

The one on the left is the 95 model joint, the one on the right is what was threaded into my block.

Edit: I just ordered the part from JNZ, and told the guy the incident. He also said there is only one part number, so this doesn't make much sense to me. Anyways, this bolt costs about $20!!!

 

[19Eclipse90]

How certain are you that joint you picked up at the junkyard is an OEM joint? I can go down to Lowe's and pick up a similar looking bushing fitting, the correct bit and tap, and make it fit in a 2G block.

It doesn't matter if I look up the part for 2Gs in general or specific, early '95 models which are often times unique, the part number for the joint in the block is MD314114.

For my own curiosity, this is your original 4G63 engine? Do the threads for the two pieces you pictured even match up (same pitch)? Did you measure the ~0.75" at the tip of the joint or near the head? Does the banjo bolt thread into the piece joint you pulled at the junkyard?

 

[Saturdee]

How certain are you that joint you picked up at the junkyard is an OEM joint? I can go down to Lowe's and pick up a similar looking bushing fitting, the correct bit and tap, and make it fit in a 2G block.

It doesn't matter if I look up the part for 2Gs in general or specific, early '95 models which are often times unique, the part number for the joint in the block is MD314114.

For my own curiosity, this is your original 4G63 engine? Do the threads for the two pieces you pictured even match up (same pitch)? Did you measure the ~0.75" at the tip of the joint or near the head? Does the banjo bolt thread into the piece joint you pulled at the junkyard?

Yes, the engine out of my car is the original. Nope, thread pitch is different. I measured the .75" at the end of the threads, not the head. And yes, the banjo bolt does thread into it.

And I'm 99.99% sure it's an OEM joint. Everything on the car I got this fitting from was bone stock. Plus, it was screwed into the block, so unless the person decided to resize the hole in the block then it is most likely OEM.