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Tuning solutions to help with stalling

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Slippi84

15+ Year Contributor
4,454
20
Jun 8, 2005
Cinnaminson, New Jersey
I know venting is bad and all that but I kinda got put in my current situation because my car and gm setup go together like a black guy at a klan meetin. Anyway I have a tial style BOV and a evo8 maf and whenever I let off the gas it either stalls or comes real close depending on how high the rpms were before I let off. I have a light weight flywheel and a big turbo which make the problem even worse cause rpms drop so dam fast and it will fall out of boost real easy. I just want to know if there is a tuning solution like rasing my idle or something along those lines before I go threw the trouble of selling my BOV and getting a new intake pipe.
 
Hey Slippi84,

I'd recommend raising the idle and see if that helps. What is your idle set at now?

I've been juggling around in my head using the nitrous control to activate mechanism(that i can't figure out yet) which will make a high idle at any speed above zero and then will deactivate at a zero speed. This would likely prevent stalling between shifts and when letting off the gas suddenly w/ the clutch disengaged. . .
 
If you are deciding on staying with the evo maf I would get a bov you can recirculate. I was going to go with the evo maf, what kind of fuel adjustments did you have to make to run it?
 
I had the same problem before. Make sure your ISC motor is good. Test it out. Raise your idle to 1000 rpm and adjust your coasting FC adjustment to compensate. So enter like 250 in there and see what it does. Make sure there are no boost leaks as well. Make sure your injectors are properly dialed in as well. Go onto the dsmlink forums and get the "wiki" files and it will tell you how to get you 950's dialed in.
 
No the car runs good but as soon as I go to let of the gass at any rpm above like 3k oor higher the car just dies. Tom from dsmlink posted the settings for the evo maf that I went by and I already set the adjustments for my 950cc injectors all that is good. It's def the bov as it's a big bov and will vent a lot of air into the atmospher and cause problems with metering I know but I just wanted to see if there was a bandaid that made it not as bad but it looks like i'm gonna have to look into a new bov setup
 
Try adding some timing down low and see if that helps.
 
im not sure what the problem is here? your venting your bov with a evo mas... your car WILL stall when stopping or disengaging the clutch (most of the time). venting like that is a no no. fix that problem and see if the stalling persists. i understand you want to fix it without buying a new setup, but thats only going to be a bandaid at best. i say recirc. and be done with it.
 
I think he knows that it's not ideal. But, . . .man . . . it jsut sounds so frickin' good! Blowing off at 25 psi. Also he's going to have to fab a recirculation port on his intake pipe or get another one.

You're right. I'll be going back to drawthu even though I have a MAFT becasue I want the accuracy w/out having to calibrate. Nevertheless, I will miss that chee-Khaaaow!
 
Their isn't much of a band aid you can do with out changing something with your hardware. If you was having serious issues with the MAFT the problem was probably your MAF. Only problems I ever had with blow threw was I accidenlty set my injector's to like 380cc or something stupid on the MAFT and was getting some serious issues for about 5 minutes. Just set to 450cc and adjust your injectors in the ECU. I was running 1000cc injectors and had it set to almost 1100cc in the ecu to get everything kosher.

But you could just tap your intake and put a pipe fitting in it with very shallow threads and build a recirc tube for it. Blow off it nice and all but IMO sleeper is even nicer.
 
To be honest I could careless about the bov it sounds cool and all but I liked how my 1g sounded with my 14b setup when it was reciurculated after I turned the boost up just as much as the tial into the air with my gt14. I just want to stop stalling this shit is crazy. Just wanted to see if there were any little tricks to beating the system but shortcuts never pay off I guess. Oh well I already put my setup up on here and the link forums so we'll see what happens thanks a lot guys for the advice.

Now the question is which bov is good for 50lb/min flow and around 25psi daily? But that's more of a bolt on thread thing so i'll just start a new thread there
 
Get a Tial BOV and you won't be sorry. The Greddy Type R I believe is also a nice big BOV. You want something big so you don't get stall from sudden high boost throttle closures. I know my modded 1G BOV was to small for the HX35 @ 32 PSI. The blow off was mad sounding and everyone thought it was the sweetest sound but it did cause compressor stall. It just wasn't big enough for the amount of air flow I was putting out. I'm going to run duel 1G's on the same turbo on a buddies car and I imagine that would sound great and bypass enough air as to not get near compressor stall. BTW the Modded 1G BOV held 35 PSI with zero leakage. But at idle it leaked like a SOB, which wasn't something that concerned me as I was running blow threw anyways.
 
The Tial BOV especially with a soft spring will blow off at almost everything. Mine blows off even if i lightly rev the car to 1500. Needless to say this will cause horrible driveability problems if youre running a draw thru setup like stock and aren't recirculated (the Tial is vent only). I had the Tial BOV on my stock MAF for about a week while my MAFT setup was in the mail. It was almost impossible to drive slowly around town as the car would stall from almost any revving or pushing in the clutch at any RPM. I had the 7 lb spring which made it even worse. For now, try putting in some correctly sizes shims or spacers inside the BOV to make the spring tighter. It won't open as easily and may help.
 
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