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1G Tired of high intake air temps!!!

Posted by RipperXX, Feb 3, 2020

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  1. RipperXX

    RipperXX Proven Member

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    Anyone know of a hood vent that wouldn't look horrible on a 1Ga???

    You used to be able to find extractor vents that looked a bit like a long 3-4" wide vent with a raised lip at the front or sort of like a rearward facing scoop but designed for extraction. Can't seem to find anything like that or anything that won't look horrible on a 1Ga. And if I can't locate something I'm going to have to buy some 24ga galvanized sheet metal or aluminum from work I guess and make some ductwork and vent myself. But, I'd rather just buy something I can just cut the CF hood and "bolt on or rivet or something" I'm done trying to keep this car super clean... it's down to just the drivers seat, no A/C no heat, screw it. Going for pure function.

    And 107*f IAT on a 70*f day will not do!
     

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  2. pauleyman

    pauleyman DSM Wiseman

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  3. motomattx

    motomattx Proven Member

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    107* ? heck I have seen 170* LOL.
     

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  4. lost_prophit

    lost_prophit Probationary Member

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  5. ErikTande

    ErikTande Supporting Member

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    Why not get cold air from the original fender spot with a cold air box instead of cutting a hole in your hood? Or do a sneaky headlight mod?




    headlight.jpg


    Code:
    vid on how i made my headlight:
    https://youtu.be/S0WVRKpQJqo
     

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  6. Lucky13

    Lucky13 Supporting Member

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    I 3D printed this to separate the intake from the under hood air. Pulling air from the fender.
    IMG_0679.JPG IMG_0680.JPG
     
  7. ErikTande

    ErikTande Supporting Member

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    Nice!!!
     

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  8. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

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    Have you thought of wrapping your intake piping to keep the heat out? I wrap my bottom FMIC tube and need to wrap the upper one. Also, wrapping the downpipe helps keep ambient heat out of aluminum.
     

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  9. BLACK'98DSM

    BLACK'98DSM Proven Member

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    I'd start by blocking the heat from the exhaust. i.e. wrap and heat shields. You can also get those air filter heat shields from Amazon for like $20. Worst case just re-route the piping to put it behind the bumper or a lower and cooler area.

    I've been curious about this for a while. If you wrap it, it may take longer to heat up, but the wrap also traps heat inside for longer. So it might be a little cooler but the heat will last longer, no?
     

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  10. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

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    It helped on IAT's on my red car for sure. I am going to wrap the auto cars lower tube and see what happens. My IAT's rise pretty rapidly on that car so it will be a good test. I wrapped the UICP also on the red car and it all seemed to be helpful not harmful. I found that underhood temps would radiate into all the aluminum under my hood ei....RADIATOR, IC Piping, oil filter so I wrapped the down pipe and put a turbo blanket on and wrapped all of my IC piping and those high temps came down a lot.
     

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  11. ist dwa

    ist dwa Proven Member

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    107 IAT is nothing, the only way you are going to get it lower is to run a liquid to air ice chest setup which is 100% unstreetable.
     
  12. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

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    I agree, 107 is NOTHING.
     

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  13. RipperXX

    RipperXX Proven Member

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    Thanks guys.
     

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  14. RipperXX

    RipperXX Proven Member

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    Well, when you're at 15* ignition timing on pump 93 @ 22psi it seems to be the difference in .7* ignition retard and 15*. So I'm trying to get it down to ambient. It's that or back down the ignition timing to 14*

    Also when I can just raise the pop ups and watch IAT instantly start to drop from 107 to 92*f then there's more to be done imo. I want ambient air temps!
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2020

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  15. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

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    Have you thought about putting a spacer in the back of the hood and removal of the rubber seal to allow more air flow? I have heard of it but have not done it. Turbo Blanket? Wrapped DP? Those 2 things really lowered mine a lot (and some good ducting on the front) and aluminum SOAKS up heat very easy is what was even making my engine temps go up. Heat Soak.
    I'd say you are super lucky to be able to run that much timing on gas. I am stuck at 5* before the knock sensor comes on unless I add some E85 to the mix. On 91 pump, 5*. On E85 almost 20*, so considerable differences on my end.
    I really like @Ludachris 's hood vent but not sure how he installed it. Looks good and if it functions then maybe he can chime in and let us know what it is.
     

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  16. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

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    Ludas 1ga.png
     
    Last edited: Feb 4, 2020

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  17. RWD4G63

    RWD4G63 Proven Member

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    Pretty sure he's measuring IAT at the MAF guys, which is a bit different that after the intercooler.
     

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  18. RipperXX

    RipperXX Proven Member

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    Lifting the rear of the hood and or doing anything the removes that seal at the rear of the hood hurts cooling.

    That area is a high pressure area at speed, so it increases under hood air pressure, which makes it harder for air to flow through the FMIC/Radiator/ anything else. I had to make an aluminum piece that bolts on to the bottom of the bumper cover and runs to the radiator support to keep air from just going under the radiator vs through it as it is to keep coolant temps where I want them, and that's without A/C condenser, just big FMIC, also cut up the bumper in a way that lets some air go over the FMIC to feed more air to the radiator. Coolant temps rarely go over 206*f now in summer, and sit around 193*f in spring and fall, low 180s in winter. (180* themostat)



    I have a turbo blanket, manifold and custom turbo heat shields in place, tubular 02 housing is bare though, as is the dump tube which is doing noth unless at WOT anyway.

    I made a shield of sorts at one point for the intake but made it out of thin aluminum...it would heat soak and then was pretty much worthless so i just removed it. I may try ABS plastic or maybe look at covering the aluminum one in a layer or 3 of fiberglass.
     

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  19. RipperXX

    RipperXX Proven Member

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    You're correct . I have no idea why it would have been assumed otherwise.
     

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  20. curt-s

    curt-s Proven Member

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    Being sandwiched right between the exhaust and a constantly hot radiator, you wont be cooling down that pipe anytime soon while driving. I can usually touch the pipe after a night of driving with the exhaust wrap on, so I know the pipe inside is a lot cooler than it would be without it.
    My IATs agree. Cooler and more consistent.

    Does it trap heat generated by turbo? Sure. However, the air just outside it is a LOT hotter, and that is heat I wanted to keep away. It cant absorb and dump heat from the air coming out of the turbo if the ambient air on the outside is twice as hot.
    same goes for when the engine is off.
     

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  21. 2g2slow97

    2g2slow97 Probationary Member

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    What’s the IAT after the intercooler?
     

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  22. 1990TSIAWDTALON

    1990TSIAWDTALON Moderator

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    Duct from behind the foglight to the MAF?
    I'm on speed density so I measure my IATs closer to the throttle body so sorry about misunderstanding.
     

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  23. Bleakley

    Bleakley Proven Member

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    TSIAWD666 had a good idea for IAT’s. Combined with the 3D printed suggestion would make for a killer solution in my opinion.
     

    Attached Files:

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  24. fredom dsm

    fredom dsm Proven Member

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    I did this to my spyder two summers ago, didnt take before and after intake temps but im sure it helped some specially at higher temps. Just an idea.
     

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  25. Bleakley

    Bleakley Proven Member

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    I’m SOO lazy with ductwork compared to a lot of you guys. LOL!
     

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