1G Tired of high intake air temps!!!

[Vegas Smith]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[RipperXX]

What’s the IAT after the intercooler?

I have no idea.

 

[RipperXX]

Duct from behind the foglight to the MAF?
I'm on speed density so I measure my IATs closer to the throttle body so sorry about misunderstanding.

I'm going to try to get some dryer ducting and see if I can do just that. But also start looking at gathering some 24ga galvanized sheet metal (or aluminum) from work for making ducting. as I kind of want to build a duct from the radiator out the hood..... But yes also something for the intake.

 

[RipperXX]

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

If I ever switch to speed density I absolutely will do that. But being on a 1G it's a bit more of a PITA, I have to switch to simulating the narrow band though my EGT temp input that's logging my WB02 sensor, which I have to relocate from the down pipe to the O2 housing. And then I guess wire in a MAP sensor to the narrow band input and I think I can use a input from the MAF wiring for IAT? Then I get to start learning how to retune this darn thing all over again!!! not exactly the most motivating thing... But it would free up a restriction and make a real cold air intake easy, and it would be a real cold air intake vs hot engine bay air intake.

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

I can usually touch the pipe after a night of driving with the exhaust wrap on

Simply because it is trapping the heat inside.

I'm not going to argue with numbers, because numbers are facts. But you do see what I'm saying?

 

[curt-s]

It may keep a little heat in, but it also keeps a lot of heat out. There is a lot more heat where the J and intercooler pipes are that "wants" to get to the pipe than heat inside the pipe that wants to get out. Your turbo also isnt always acting like a blowdryer -- in periods where there is less demand, the intake flow helps cool the inside.
However, there is always a huge amount of heat between the exhaust manifold or header and the radiator, demand or not. Keep that away from warming your intake air and it is always a net benefit. It is a lot easier to cool the pipe when it isnt getting blasted from the outside.

Unwrapped, how can your intake pipes shrug off post-turbo heat when theyre being bombarded by the much higher temp heat even just from your radiator?

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

^^ this is exactly why I wrapped all of my components.....radiant heat.

 

[ist dwa]

Wait?, you're using a MAF, and your worried about IATs.....Priorities.

 

[RipperXX]

Wait?, you're using a MAF, and your worried about IATs.....Priorities.

Yes well 1G's don't have as many inputs available, and I'm hesitant to mess with the car at this point as getting it tuned as well as it is now was a PITA... plus there's other priorities right now with house repair and kids so spending on the toy isn't really in the budget. So I have to make do until it is and I have the time and inclination to mess with trying to swap to speed density.

On the to do list is:

electronic boost control
Water injection
Speed density
Cold air intake

Figuring out the electronic stuff is not my strong suite... which is why it took so long to tune the car.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I find speed density tuning much easier, but it may just be me. Would need a MAP sensor and an IAT sensor and the plug and play harness, but glad you put your family before the toy!

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

On the to do list is:

electronic boost control
Water injection
Speed density
Cold air intake

I assumed you already had the cold air intake. So you're on stock piping and everything?

Plan to reroute the intake filter location to somewhere cooler, it will help at least.

 

[RipperXX]

No I have short route aluminum piping, 2.5" I.D. if memory serves me correct. I put some heat reflective tape around the J pipe where it's near the exhaust. The FMIC is a pretty large bar and plate core but still allows me to get the fog lights. It's the VRSF kit. 3.5" thick core that's 24x8" So I don't imagine the air temps are to crazy out the outlet side, especially since I'm only putting 22psi into it from a MHI Evo III 16g.

I am trying to get a more consistent higher airflow from it though, like in the mornings when it's really cold I see more like 36/lb min (still on stock cams too) but in the afternoon when ambient air temps come up and intake air temps have basically doubled it drops to more like 34lb/min.

I figure 14* ignition timing at 22psi generating 36lb/min on 93octane with stock cams is respectable.

I wonder though how much gasket matching the compressor outlet to the J pipe will help, if any real measurable amount?


P.S. Car's weight is approximately 2870lb so while it's not making 400hp, it is fun. though I'm starting to wonder if I should change springs since they're the Eibach prokit springs and probably intended for when the car weighed 3100lb, not 2870... I say that because when I go WOT in 3rd from 60mph, the car does move around, like feel like power is moving around from wheel to wheel and wants to pull right and left a little, so you do end up having to "drive it" to keep straight. It's nothing insane but it definitely didn't used to do that when it made a less power and weighed more, so I wonder if it's a bit of an alignment issue caused from the weight reduction?

 

[Steve93Talon]

And 107*f IAT on a 70*f day will not do!

Are you already on DSMlink V3? If so, adding SD and EBC is simple and well worth it.

Here's a handy site for calculating changes in air temp. If you were to drop your pre-turbo AITs from 107 to 70 deg. ambient, you'd only see a reduction in post-IC temps of about 10-15 degrees.

http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml

Regarding keeping it straight, I'd probably look at the 30 year old chassis bushings first

 

[RipperXX]

Are you already on DSMlink V3? If so, adding SD and EBC is simple and well worth it.

Here's a handy site for calculating changes in air temp. If you were to drop your pre-turbo AITs from 107 to 70 deg. ambient, you'd only see a reduction in post-IC temps of about 10-15 degrees.

http://www.not2fast.com/turbo/glossary/turbo_calc.shtml

Regarding keeping it straight, I'd probably look at the 30 year old chassis bushings first

Thanks for that.

About half of the bushings have been replaced with poly, but yeah that does leave half (mostly the rear) with the original ones... which probably is at a minimum contributing to that.

Also you say it's easy to go to SD and EBC... and it may be for someone who knows what they're doing... but I'm not a wizard when it comes to wiring, though I have fixed some rat's nests.. It's about my least favorite thing to mess with, maybe because if I'm not 1000% sure something is right, I don't want to do it when it comes to wiring.