The RAVEN!: AWD/Auto/S400/Nitrous/Alum. rod/100% street car build *8/9s or bust!*

[richard33]

its crazy to see this car back in action! Heres the last time I saw it when it was still over on the east coast

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[TSimage]

hello what size fuel cell u got in the car? where did you get it from?

No fuel cell, its a sumped stock tank which will be up FS soon as I plan to run a JMF unit most likely.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

its crazy to see this car back in action! Heres the last time I saw it when it was still over on the east coast

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Oh wow, that sure is a flash back!

Can't say anything about the car will be recognizable after it is all said and done. Its a great shell but everything else was junk so you definitely don't want to know how I feel about the previous owner. But it gives me a chance to try some new things and a much better motor setup.

Only thing left is to get ahold of ATF and see about this transmission. Fingers crossed on it all holding up. I have a few more updates in the blog section although the blogs are absolutely useless and many blogs go unnoticed because for whatever reason the front page doesn't get updated. Its pointless so I stopped using it. Since we aren't suppose to use these build threads all of my build will be documented on the other boards (Link, NorCal, Talk) Same thread title on all but Link.

Current position of the build however is the full wire harness/rewire of the car which now includes the accessories and I am having my Front Mount manifold designed to be built. Little by little I suppose.

 

[richard33]

I know the car had some issues but ended making some good passes. It was a long time ago and my DSM knowledge was lacking so all I remember was the direct port and the 35R . Looks like you are doing things the right way! Good luck with it. Looking forward to some videos of that car making single digit passes!

 

[kidtsi]

Hope 2011 is the year man!

 

[TSimage]

I know the car had some issues but ended making some good passes. It was a long time ago and my DSM knowledge was lacking so all I remember was the direct port and the 35R . Looks like you are doing things the right way! Good luck with it. Looking forward to some videos of that car making single digit passes!

Thanks a lot bro! thats the kind of support I need to keep on track. I just get side tracked easy. The money I was going to use to finish the Talon went to me buying a bike, moving to a new house, getting married and buying a Galant VR4 and fixing it up hahaha so the Talon took a back seat.

Now that the Galant's done and I don't have as many distractions hopefully I can keep the ball rolling and get it done. I am closer now of course. Its not so much that I couldn't put what I have together right now and run it but I kinda wanna make sure its perfect before I begin the long process of dialing it in.

Waiting on so far, Getting rid of this head and going with a heavy ported setup, possibly a 2G CB if I can get my Magnus reflanged. Getting my Forward Facing Manifold and Intercooler setup completed and then a set of 2000cc+ injectors and its ready to fire up...

In all reality, it isn't much and its less than a few grand. I just need to find the time to bare down and go for it!

Hope 2011 is the year man!

You and I both! I just can't justify this thing sitting in the garage anymore.. A lot of the parts are here, they've just been sitting which annoys me more than anything. First thing on the list is to start selling all these parts I wont need such as the radiator and intercooler setup as well as a bunch of stuff from the Galant.

 

[richard33]

Thanks a lot bro! thats the kind of support I need to keep on track. I just get side tracked easy. The money I was going to use to finish the Talon went to me buying a bike, moving to a new house, getting married and buying a Galant VR4 and fixing it up hahaha so the Talon took a back seat.

Now that the Galant's done and I don't have as many distractions hopefully I can keep the ball rolling and get it done. I am closer now of course. Its not so much that I couldn't put what I have together right now and run it but I kinda wanna make sure its perfect before I begin the long process of dialing it in.

Waiting on so far, Getting rid of this head and going with a heavy ported setup, possibly a 2G CB if I can get my Magnus reflanged. Getting my Forward Facing Manifold and Intercooler setup completed and then a set of 2000cc+ injectors and its ready to fire up...

In all reality, it isn't much and its less than a few grand. I just need to find the time to bare down and go for it!



You and I both! I just can't justify this thing sitting in the garage anymore.. A lot of the parts are here, they've just been sitting which annoys me more than anything. First thing on the list is to start selling all these parts I wont need such as the radiator and intercooler setup as well as a bunch of stuff from the Galant.

nice! whats the complete fuel setup you're going? What gas?

 

[TSimage]

nice! whats the complete fuel setup you're going? What gas?

Switched to dual 044s:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

-10 from the tank to the first filter which goes to the Y that splits -10 into the 2 pumps then it is Y'd back into a -10 all the way to the front. -8 return line. The feed line and return line in the engine bay are both black so hopefully they'll be pretty invisible.

I'll be running E85 on the street and E98 at the track. My first few runs will most likely be straight E85 until I get the bugs worked out to really push the car. Its still going to be street driven so it'll be nice to see what it can do on gas I can get at my every day pump.

As of right now the injector situation is up in the air but when the time comes I'll jump on what ever deal is out that is the best. I'm trying my best to avoid spending $700+ on injectors.

 

[kidtsi]

You have mi hopes!!! even if You don't need it it might help you on motivation and to know that someone is waiting on seeing that beast ripping all over the 1320!

Car is looking amazing!!! I'm gonna start with a build like this this year but i wont care if it can be driven on the street or not, i don't have a goal i just have a Fp GT3586 and i'll try to max it out.

 

[Slippi84]

WIll two 044's be enough to support your hp and flow for E85. I know for gas they can flow enough for like 800whp but it takes obviously more e85 to make the same power. Good idea with the JMF cell make sure you go anodized it will be more stealth anyway. Hopefully some of these big builds finish up this year by the time race season comes.

 

[TSimage]

WIll two 044's be enough to support your hp and flow for E85. I know for gas they can flow enough for like 800whp but it takes obviously more e85 to make the same power. Good idea with the JMF cell make sure you go anodized it will be more stealth anyway. Hopefully some of these big builds finish up this year by the time race season comes.

In theory it should but I have other options one of which is simply boosting them a little. We'll see in due time. I'm running high compression too so I rather not have to deal with fuel issues because it'll be catastrophic but I suppose I'll simply have to deal with it.

As for the JMF unit, its no more stealthy than what I have. A couple locals have identical cells and they stick out more than mine, given they are shinny as hell . Even so, if it was black it would still look the same. The gains are minimal, we're talking a few lbs so justifying buying it is low on the list unless I get a good price for the stock cell which I have no idea how to price currently .

I'm hopin to finish it soon, I've always been in a position where I could finish it on a whim but another project always comes up. I have automotive "A.D.D." How's your build comin? I know you moved and all that jazz, things back on track?

 

[Slippi84]

In theory it should but I have other options one of which is simply boosting them a little. We'll see in due time. I'm running high compression too so I rather not have to deal with fuel issues because it'll be catastrophic but I suppose I'll simply have to deal with it.

As for the JMF unit, its no more stealthy than what I have. A couple locals have identical cells and they stick out more than mine, given they are shinny as hell . Even so, if it was black it would still look the same. The gains are minimal, we're talking a few lbs so justifying buying it is low on the list unless I get a good price for the stock cell which I have no idea how to price currently .

I'm hopin to finish it soon, I've always been in a position where I could finish it on a whim but another project always comes up. I have automotive "A.D.D." How's your build comin? I know you moved and all that jazz, things back on track?

I was getting my dd (06 TBSS) where I wanted it to be and now I'm ordering stuff for the talon again and trying to get back on track. See your lucky it's nice year round where you are. I have 5" of snow outside and 20* weather outside right now which is def not work on your car weather. WHat I would give for a heated garage with a lift. I would have been done a year ago .

 

[TSimage]

I was getting my dd (06 TBSS) where I wanted it to be and now I'm ordering stuff for the talon again and trying to get back on track. See your lucky it's nice year round where you are. I have 5" of snow outside and 20* weather outside right now which is def not work on your car weather. WHat I would give for a heated garage with a lift. I would have been done a year ago .

Awwww, c'mon now man, it sprinkled a lil bit yesterday.. I get what you mean though, hell I still wouldn't mind a heated garage with a lift though.

 

[LiquidX]

I just read over a bit of this and looks good. With your goals, why did you choose to go with dual pumps rather than a mechanical drive fuel pump?

May have missed this but what fuel do you plan on using; E85, E100, 100% methanol, race gas? Are you also still utilizing the 1600cc injectors or have you gone up in size?

 

[burkgonzo]

Great build and I will be following close, Im picking up an auto 92 talon this weekend. Hopefully with an hx-40 and a little nx make some good numbers.

 

[TSimage]

I just read over a bit of this and looks good. With your goals, why did you choose to go with dual pumps rather than a mechanical drive fuel pump?

May have missed this but what fuel do you plan on using; E85, E100, 100% methanol, race gas? Are you also still utilizing the 1600cc injectors or have you gone up in size?

I had an 044 already and was able to trade away a spare set of cam gears for another. Original plans were e85 for street and Aero fuel (a 127 octane blend we have available to us out here) but I decided to go full alcohol. So the car will be ran on E85 and E98. I am hoping it works out, if not I have an Aeromotive Eliminator pump sitting on the side as well as a MagnaFuel super pump available to me.

I have no predictions that this thing will make it to E98 in one piece so for now I wanna go a step at a time. The motor is getting squared away and I have some custom cams coming for the head and right now am trying to decide between going with a 2G Curt Brown head or having my 1G head built further. The issue is is how much Magnus will charge me to re-flange my manifold. I've been finding research to support such a change and thus far what I have gained is that at this sized turbo, it wont matter as much where as the gains would be more noticeable on a smaller framed setup.

As of right now RedJack will be doing my manifold and intercooler fabrication. I'll have him chime in here more later on when I am to the point where things can begin. My next couple purchases will be one of Vassils new curved crossmember chromoly bars (I need the clearance) as well as head work/cams. Once that is out of the way It will be waiting game to see how long RJR takes.

Great build and I will be following close, Im picking up an auto 92 talon this weekend. Hopefully with an hx-40 and a little nx make some good numbers.

No doubt that is a POTENT setup. I figured I'd go with an auto 2.3 HX35/40pro setup for a cool street build on my next 4G vehicle which I want to be a MightyMax but its looking like it might be a Colt. This time though I hope it doesn't side track me from finishing the Talon again like the Galant did, but I still believe the Galant is THE most badass of all the 4G cars and I'd do it all over again in a heart beat .

 

[TSimage]

Ask and yee shall receive!

To do a recap on where we last left off I had begun the tedious task of pulling the wiring harness to ready myself for stripping down the harness and getting it race/ tuck ready. This process will include removing a MAJORITY, yes, more sh*t is removed than kept, of the unneeded bull crap from the harness. Relocating it to a more hidden location ad above all else actually rerouting the wires so that they can better be branched from a central location rather than the OEM method that is beyond embarrassing to lay eyes upon for anyone with even a minor any any type of engineering that branches into electrical. :chair:

And here was our stopping point when I last posted:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Intimidating to say the least but confidences is key. If you are familiar with these cars it makes it a LOT easier but you'll definitely want to use our available tech articles (which are a b*tch to find *especially for the 1Gs so I'ma do you a favor and post em for ya.

The primary 2 sites I used were: Project Zero G -

:: Project Zero G :: - Wiring Home

This site is the main site that gives you the lay out of the secondary plugs on the engine harness than other places like VFAQ totally ignore. If you look through the menu you will find the ECU harness pin out as well -

:: Project Zero G :: - Wiring Information

Now a site I ignored at first but later became my bible was this one here from the mirage-performance tech guys -

1Gb DSM 4G63 Turbo Wiring Harness Diagram

With that site you can identify every single plug and relay on the harness which at some point will come in handy just in case you get a little carried away. I have done a few 1GB harness before but I was thrown off by this 90 harness (first 90 harness I have messed with) and since it had been a minute since I uninstalled all of it I forgot that there are lots of differences so I WASTED a lot of time looking for connectors and wires that were right in front of my face but were different sized/type of connectors or were wired slightly different.

Another helpful one that I didn't need but some others might benefit from is this site that shows you the Engine harness pinout with the color coded wires off to the sides... Very useful for those less familiar with the wiring. -

http://www.dsmtalk.com/gallery/data/500/Drawing2_Model_1_.jpg

Now as for you 2G guys.. you have an ABUNDANT amount of info to do your tuck. Regardless of having more wires it is a lot easier. There are threads for 2Gs that have damn near every single plug identified and decade long threads dedicated solely to tucking 2Gs.. Ef you guys! 1Gs still look better in the end.

Ok, now onto the work...

 

[TSimage]

THANK YOU! I was going to make a post similar to this with a picture of each connector and what it is. I still might and use this to help. Im about to do the same thing but more street car friendly.

swade

What can I say.. I take care of you guys.

So now the dirty work begins, I assembled a nice set of tools to begins tripping the harness:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

1. Med-large box
2. Gloves
3. Utility scissors
4. Razor blade
5. 1/2-3/4" masking tape
6. Netbook/Laptop/IPad/Desktop


In this picture you'll see a nice sized box naturally to put all the crap in.. Get rid of the wires as you take em off or else they will only help to confuse you later on.

Next up is a pair of gloves. My harness was fairly clean but either way you'll be dealing with either dirt and or sticky residue from the tape when you pull it off which will leave your fingers icky and black and will get on anything you touch and just make you miserable.

I chose utility scissors over snips just because of the ease of use. and the ability to cut multiple wires at ones which can help you line up a bunch of wires for some clean work. Also once you get to the point where you are cutting anything they do a hell of a lot better job at cutting through rubber boots etc than the blade.

The blade is the speed tool. Find the groove in the harness cover and run the blade along it to open it up quick and fast like gutting a fish. Also using the blade with finesse allows you to open up the loom with out fear of cutting through wires like you would with the scissors as well as getting into tight spots.

Don't do what I did and start off with friggin' 2" wide tape. It WILL piss you off and slow you down. At this size it is perfect for everything from labeling wires to connectors to bundling the harness to help you organize the chaos. Very important! I chose the masking tape over the Painters tape because it comes off easier. It hats the dirt and the electrical tape goo and it will stick once and only once and come off with ease but only when you want it to.

And finally some type of computer. You WILL run into a snag and need to look it up. Don't guess, spend the extra time and do it right the first time!

First up.. Remove all of the wire wire loom...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The method I used for the engine harness was to use the sites I mentioned before to find the pins and snip the wires at the connector and fish em out. (I can always slice back into those connectors later on if I want to use them for anything.. Specifically the solenoids which I will be using to control my nitrous) Be careful because plenty of them are bundled so don't get too happy. The Project Zero site actually shows you everything you can remove in a basic harness tuck. I went above and beyond so it took em having a better understanding on what I needed and didn't to make it happen.:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Take your time and never get over whelmed, if you get antsy, take a break and come back, don't rush this. It'll be a million times worse if you have to trouble shoot when its all said and done. Keep your removed wires out of the way and out of sight. NO DISTRACTIONS! Once you get to a point where you are ready to lay out your harness begin taping the harness to keep it under control. The masking tape is hard enough that it will allow you to still pull wires through them without losing shape or breaking which is awesome!:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Before you know it you will have something that half way resembles a wiring harness of some sort.. In the picture you'll notice that my harness is wired similar to stock where the coolant lines are at the end of the harness which will force you to loop it. Also a few other issues with the way the stock harness is setup just wont work for what I want so plan it out in your head like I did or if it helps you you can draw it out and then get your final layout down:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The injectors begin the harness, the coil pack si relocated since I use a COP and the MSD anyways, everything will be very much hidden underneath the massive Magnus manifold. The coolant lines have been relocated so they can branch out on their own in a thin harness branch that will be easy to hide and if I can I'll have my sensors relocated to the rear of the housing to make it even easier, we'll see..

Look at that rats nest I removed!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You might notice some special things about the harness.. Yes I have my AEM map sensor wired in the harness. My IAT wires are there I just don't yet have the pig tail. All of the branches are untouched and much longer than they will be when I put the flex loom on. You'll notice too that the injector plugs are the updated plugs with the built in clips:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Out of all of those plugs 2 of them are check wires (speed/tach and fuel) and they will be tucked away so I reduced a 40 connector harness to a handful of connectors which is what you want. I also managed to re rout things so that the Ignition relay is right inside the firewall out of sight. The 90 wire harness allows you to tuck your harness a little more simply because there are no plugs on top of the TPS or the CAS.


Now, for the main harness/ chassis harness/ fusebox harness... OR what ever the hell you want to call it, my methods changed.

There are no layouts of the connectors so instead I chose to begin my sniping at the fuse box itself. Tracing from this centralized point made life a lot easier.. Ironically removing my fog lights alone got rid of damn near an entire connector. Pull the retaining tab and go to work. Remove the fuses and relays as you delete said items.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Do work son! This harness is most likely cut (you have to cut it to remove it) so if you have it labeled well you can delete wires on the fuse box side and trace it on over to the harness end. Again, try to work clean and focus on the task.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

What a difference that makes on both ends! *Notce the box-o-wires! *

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Its getting there but remember that this harness begins on the drivers side of the car and travels to the front, along the front core, up the frame and all the way to the passenger shock tower. Naturally its LONG!:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Time to once again, mock up your wire path in the actual car, in your head or on a piece of paper and determine where you can safely cut the harness of course remembering you will have to extend the headlight wires. If your like me and relocating your alternator to behind the motor you'll find your alternator connector is WAY too long as well..

Re tag your wires so work with your newly desired length and snip-snip. Look how much more was removed!:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Yes, I literally hacked the harness in half if not more! Now the fun part begins..

 

[TSimage]

Onto our next tool/item list...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

1. Soldering iron
2. Quality solder
3. Heat shrink - Multiple lengths and sizes
4. Heat gun
5. Good set of multi-use wire stripers/crimpers.. (I have the auto ones as well but it all works the same)
6. Zipties

This list is pretty much self explanatory. Make sure to use heat shrink and not electrical tape. Don't ghetto rig such a vital part of your car and risk some big issues down the line that WILL come from using electrical tape. Do it right and solder the wires as well as heat shrinking the connection. As always, try to stagger as many of the connections as possible.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The finish em off:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

And viola!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

What a CRAZY difference... Just looking under the fuse box you can see how much was removed alone from there.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Both harnesses together:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The mass of wires removed from both harnesses filled up that entire box!:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

7 LBS removed in wires alone!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

So this is how the wire harnesses will stay until everything else is installed. Then the harness is placed and the final measurements and routes for the wires and set in and the masking tape then turns into electrical tape and zipties (more permanent) and finally the Flex loop will be applied to finish it off. Hopefully you wont see it regardless.. While I am patiently waiting on more parts to come in and the motor progress I am tempted to pull the entire interior harness as well and go to town. I've almost 100% decided on doing it although there isn't much to gain from it since its pretty isolated. All in all when you consider that all I need are my wires for the rear lights and fuel pump and that all the other wires are useless.. I'm still on the fence as to whether I got manual windows or not, I still need to find the final numbers on how much weight I'll save. Not until then will I make the decision to strip the interior harness too. Literally all it needs is ignition, fuel pump (actually only like 2-3 out of the 15 fuel pump wires) the rare lights and the rest can go... Having m dash board off and having to star at the huge harness every time I get in doesn't help..

 

[DSMReviver]

Don't give up, keep going. Wish you the best of luck brotha.

 

[ExpresS]

Wow i can't wait to see that clean cut harness back into the car(or will i ). Keep up the good work..

 

[domthebomb11208]

Congratz from Dogbox Racing,

Car looks great!! good luck with your goals. If you need anything dont hesitate to contact us!

DogBox Racing

 

[TSimage]

Congratz from Dogbox Racing,

Car looks great!! good luck with your goals. If you need anything dont hesitate to contact us!

DogBox Racing

Thanks for the boost! I'll be in contact with you guys soon!

Oh and to all those who asked, here's a diagram of the harness for the hell of it:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[brian9397gsx]

been reading all 5 pages, I love your wiring harness

 

[TSimage]

been reading all 5 pages, I love your wiring harness

Thanks a lot!.. There si a bunch more trick stuff to come so stay tuned!


And the show must go on!

While I am doing all of this I figured it'd be a great time to get the machine work started on the motor:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Heads off, now its time to get those nuts off of the oil pan studs and goto work!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

The crank.. Or whats left of it.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Time to get my 12pt and start rippin' crap apart!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Tap-Tap.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Here's a shot of the clearancing needed on the mains for Aluminum rods:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Now time to get those pesky rods off...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Groden/Ross:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

As mentioned before I will be going high compression so I opted out of the 9:1 Ross for something a little more "custom"

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

MmmMm beefy!

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

A little comparison; My HD pins vs standard:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

And just a little gauge you can use to guess the compression of my new pistons vs my old Ross:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[MrP]

amaazzzingg build. Serious dedication going into this car.

I