The problem with the motoman break-in method

[JohnTSI]

All my motors have been broken in on the dyno, hell the one in the car that has been in it for 2 years was making over 800hp with about 10 street miles and 7 pulls in.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Alrighty, pretty excited about this now

 

[ed1380]

Same here

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Next question - Priming.

I primed the engine with a drill onethe oil sprocket about 2 months ago. Oil shot up a million feet from the head. I'm sure the oil has drained out most of the passages by now. So should I undo the perfectly timed/tensioned timing belt and use a drill again or should I use the "no fuel/no spark, spark plugs removed, crank the engine for 20 seconds" method?

 

[BogusSVO]

Laserspeed and ed... I want you to post some track slips and/or dyno sheet.....





Or at worst, pics of the carnage!

 

[WillRaceForBeer]

Go break that beast in Ronnie!

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Did you seriously call me Ronnie?!? I could kick you in the gnads for that.

 

[Spoolin4Ever]

One thing to consider; use an old cheap turbo like a 14b or a 16g, in case there are in metal shavings produced from the new engine break in, you don't risk damaging a hie-end turbo. Most people are saying that's the way to go.

Then after you break it in and a oil change or two, you can swap to your high end turbo.

 

[Yamahaulin]

I broke my 2.4l with hx40 in fresh on the motorman. Only thing about my setup that stayed the same was injector size was easy to get it close enough to break it in on 7psi. Went from 2.0 to 2.4 and added dual pumps and bigger feed and return

 

[Team Addiction]

I used motoman technique on my eagle/mahle 2.0 that I built. except I ran stock ecu, 16g with WG wired open never saw more than 2psi boost.
Comp test pre fire 130psi across the board.
After good hard warmup and lost the water pump belt due to backwards pulley so we got REAL HOT!!
Comp test 180psi across the board.
Have since boosted as high as 25psi on said 16g comp test still show 180psi after 2500miles now setting up for an SC61 and some other changes will test again when the opportunity presents itself.

 

[crash89]

Just wanted to report back. Im due for another oil change at 250 miles.. This is my second change since first start up.. I dialed in my cruise last night and did some WOT pulls and am back up to 20 psi on my 20g!

I went back to page one and noticed your question about oil change schedule. Although that that many oil change wouldnt hurt, it isnt necessary. You could probably change the oil only half of those times and still be fine! Thats just a lot of money in oil and filters in a very short time!! my .02

 

[laserspeeddemon]

One thing to consider; use an old cheap turbo like a 14b or a 16g, in case there are in metal shavings produced from the new engine break in, you don't risk damaging a hie-end turbo. Most people are saying that's the way to go.

Then after you break it in and a oil change or two, you can swap to your high end turbo.

I have VERY fine oil filter in line to the turbo; filters to 10 micron so I'm not worried about the turbo being contaminated.

Just wanted to report back. Im due for another oil change at 250 miles.. This is my second change since first start up.. I dialed in my cruise last night and did some WOT pulls and am back up to 20 psi on my 20g!

I went back to page one and noticed your question about oil change schedule. Although that that many oil change wouldnt hurt, it isnt necessary. You could probably change the oil only half of those times and still be fine! Thats just a lot of money in oil and filters in a very short time!! my .02

I’d rather be up-tight, tiny rectum safe than sorry and lose a motor. Besides I will have the cash to spare on extra oil changes. I don’t have the cash to rebuild this motor again.

 

[ed1380]

I'm 8miles in so far. My maft is messed up so the first 5 miles it would go pig rich and buck as soon as boost hit. I threw on the stock maf and everything was fine. Had it at 10psi right away. Did some 4k and 6k pulls. More tomorrow

 

[laserspeeddemon]

I'm 8miles in so far. My maft is messed up so the first 5 miles it would go pig rich and buck as soon as boost hit. I threw on the stock maf and everything was fine. Had it at 10psi right away. Did some 4k and 6k pulls. More tomorrow

I hate you.... had fuel line issues.

 

[ed1380]

You'll get it running tomorrow. I had my issues too. First the brakes weren't bled right, then the maft was messing up so I couldn't hit boost. My emergency brake light comes on during decell and the abs light randomly blinks. The alignment is off and I've stalled it about 15 times so far.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

ALIGNMENT!!!! Glad you said something. Need to tighted the bolts on th struts.

Ive broken in many motors that way.

I just broke in my new 2.4 gt42, 1550cc injector, twin pump, kelford 272 setup on a aem ems.
I had a tune in it from the last motor, but the head/valvetrain/cam setup completely changed the tune. Got it running went out on wastegate pressure and seated the rings AFTER the first warm up and oil change/filter change.

I run Mobil delvac super 1300 diesel oil for break in. Dino oil with zinc .

The only Mobil delvac super diesel oil I can find is 15w-40. This is what you use?

They sell Mobil delvac super diesel oil 10w-30, but I can't find it ANYWHERE!

 

[GRAVEDIGGER]

Next question - Priming.

So should I undo the perfectly timed/tensioned timing belt and use a drill again or should I use the "no fuel/no spark, spark plugs removed, crank the engine for 20 seconds" method?

I have heard that you'll never get it to pump up by cranking and the only way to truely get it to work is with the drill. However, I also believe that upon the engine firing you will immediately get enough oil pressure to keep everything happy.

 

[WillRaceForBeer]

I have heard that you'll never get it to pump up by cranking and the only way to truely get it to work is with the drill. However, I also believe that upon the engine firing you will immediately get enough oil pressure to keep everything happy.

I discovered this gem somewhere else on tuners:

Fire up the air compressor, pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, have a buddy blow some compressed air into the crank case through the dip stick pipe (don't go crazy, 10psi should be more than enough pressure to help send oil up the pickup, so dial back the psi at the compressor), and crank it, should get oil pressure within a few seconds. Don't crank for too long (10 - 20 seconds max). Repeat if needed.

 

[ed1380]

Wow never heard the air compressor trick. I just unplugged the ibjectors and gave it a few 10 second cranks with no plugs in. Oil immediately shot up to 100psi on startup

 

[BogusSVO]

I discovered this gem somewhere else on tuners:

Fire up the air compressor, pull the fuel pump fuse or relay, have a buddy blow some compressed air into the crank case through the dip stick pipe (don't go crazy, 10psi should be more than enough pressure to help send oil up the pickup, so dial back the psi at the compressor), and crank it, should get oil pressure within a few seconds. Don't crank for too long (10 - 20 seconds max). Repeat if needed.

Hummm.... the logic for this does not work....

10 psi down the dipstick tube, into crankcase,

Now if it was sealed this could put force on the surface of the oil and push it up the oil pick up.

But the engine is NOT sealed, the air pressure will travel up the oil return ports of the block/head, into the VC and out the PVC.

 

[WillRaceForBeer]

Hummm.... the logic for this does not work....

10 psi down the dipstick tube, into crankcase,

Now if it was sealed this could put force on the surface of the oil and push it up the oil pick up.

But the engine is NOT sealed, the air pressure will travel up the oil return ports of the block/head, into the VC and out the PVC.

Some will, yes, but this most certainly works, so well in fact that oil also came up my turbo drain through the cartridge and out the oil feed of my turbo which was unhooked when i did this the first time, I had the oil feed line draining into a cup to make sure the oil pump got oil.

I was pushing 15 psi. I recommend 10psi as 15psi seemed to be excessive.

I have stock PCV valve and the crackcase routed to a Catch Can.

I should add that until I tried this method, normal cranking would not give me oil pressure.

 

[laserspeeddemon]

Hummm.... the logic for this does not work....

10 psi down the dipstick tube, into crankcase,

Now if it was sealed this could put force on the surface of the oil and push it up the oil pick up.

But the engine is NOT sealed, the air pressure will travel up the oil return ports of the block/head, into the VC and out the PVC.

I thought the same thing. Since I was not getting pressure from starter method, I took the timing belt off and used the drill method. Oil came straight to the top and I had about 70 psi of cold pressure.

 

[Yamaharyder600]

The whole concept of running it hard is to allow the honing in the cylinder walls to cut the rings into sealing shape. So in my opinion you should vary the Rpms but I wouldnt totally wot on the first run.

 

[lil corb]

This is the method I used to prime my motor. Worked like a charm!

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/286235-priming-oil-pump.html#post151432942

 

[ed1380]

Oh lord that's a pita to do.

I thought the same thing. Since I was not getting pressure from starter method, I took the timing belt off and used the drill method. Oil came straight to the top and I had about 70 psi of cold pressure.