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The Feared 1.8L

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Boot92

10+ Year Contributor
184
4
Apr 19, 2009
Brentwood, Tennessee
MOD EDIT: thread cliffnotes: Dude claims to have built up car and took it to the dyno. In reality, the car never got built and never went to the dyno. OP photoshoped a dyno chart and made up the entire story to go along with it. This is a hoax. When called out, OP stayed silent. If you decide to read past this point, just know that this is a fraudulent build/story and that you're wasting your time.




I don't know how many of you remember and I don't know how many of you care, but I was rebuilding a 4G63 to put into my 1G DSM, I ended up finding out that my 1.8L Block had been bored out and decided to resurrect it and get rid of the 4G63 for rebuild money.

My 4G37 Has the Over Sized Works. It been bored 0.020 Over, its not alot but its potential, found this out by when I opened up my bottom end pulled the pistons out and realized they were practically brand new. I later on called the previous owner about this he didn't know anything about it, and gave me the number of the dude he bought it from.

He told me he had some machining done to the car when he rebuilt the bottom end at 185k miles and increased the bore.

So now I'm in this huge rebuilding this motor from the bottom end up.

Here's everything on my List that isn't Factory Spec (BOLD is I'm still waiting on the part or I don't have it yet. other wise stock for now)

*Bore 0.020 W\ The Works (not alot but it helps)
*Reground 272\260 Cam
*2.0L 4G63 Shaved Cam Gear
*4G37 Ported TB w\ Coolant Bypass
*Custom Intake Manifold (*ITB's later on in the future maybe)
*Gutted MAF
*Open Air Can Mod w\ High Flow Air Filter
*Intake Hard Pipe
*High Flow Cat
*Custom Headers
*2 1\2 Inch Exhaust System (Cat Back) (Custom Made with Big Name muffler haven't picked one yet)

*Ported Head (Maybe **Cyclone 12 Valve Swap In the Future)
*7K Redline
*Premium Rings + Bearings
*NGK Premium Plugs
*NGK Plug Wires
*Oil Catch Can
*A\C and Burden Pulley Elimination
*Stage 2 4G63 N\A Clutch
*Custom Lightweight Flywheel
*Maybe a Stand Alone ECU for the ITB's
*Custom Head Gasket
*Balance Shaft Elimination
*EGR Valve Elimination


The Great things about 1.8L 4G37 Motors is the Bottom End is practically a Tank, they can withstand tons amounts of abuse unless it is under HIGH Compression or Forced Induction, Along with the fact that The Stock 4G37 (8 Valve SOHC) and\or Cyclone (12 Valve SOHC) Valve train is made of Same Material as a 4G63T and can with Stand a 7k Redline stock these 1.8L motors are still in there Power Band at the stock Redline which is 6K.

I'm About Half way done with it I'm just now putting the motor back together, I hope to have it at least running with in 1-3 Weeks from now.
 
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I don't think size really has to do anything with it...

Take your typical Honda motor.

even in the new Honda which weigh between 2700-3000+ lbs have D15's and D16's in them (1.5L, and 1.6L

hell ####ing Mazda RX-7 Series (FB, FC, FD) weigh between 2k-2.8K and they only have a 1.2L and 1.3L motor. and they both haul some ass, especially the 1.3L motors.

I think its more the fact that for some reason Mitsubishi Made the engine slow on purpose it seems.

Cheap & easy. That's how companies make money. Beef it up bro, do the build and show em something. :thumb:
 
Doing something different just for the sake of being different is ridiculous, IMHO. Do something different because it's better - not to avoid being a 'sheep', or whatever motivation you may have. Why spend all this money on a inferior platform when you have an alternative that is leaps and bounds better? This whole thread makes me want to beat my head repeatedly on a brick wall.

Of course, it is your money. By the time you are done, you will have spent enough to have upgraded to the AWD 4g63 platform with absolutely none of the benefits.

I could even understand doing this if there was a significant price difference between your car and the AWD Turbo's, but there isn't. You can find AWD Turbo's all over the place for under $2K. Hell, I see at least a few a week for $1200 that just need minor repairs. To put this into perspective, you can buy a 1G AWD Turbo for the same price you quoted earlier for a 6bolt w/ accessories. Look around - there are deals to be had. I can respect someone trying to do something challenging when there's significant gains to be had. However, in this case, there are just not enough gains to make this whole venture worthwhile, IMHO.

Think about it.
 
I give you props for doing something unique, but it seems pretty impractical to scrap your 4g63 project for the 1.8L just because of a .020 bore. Like other's said, I just don't see you even keeping up with barely modified Hondas, but to each his own. Good luck.
 
I love everyones Input, but THAT is the response I want to here! thanks Bro :hellyeah:

dude i like how you think go for it beef it up but as for me i had absolutly no luck with the 1.8 i had one in my 93 talon i bought i t blowed up put a used motor in it then it locked up i built it back and then it spun a balence shaft berring it sucked for me but the best thing i done is put a n/t 6bolt 4g63 in it it cost me just over $500 including new rings which wasnt needed. and im still runnin the 1.8 trany cause the 2.0 tranny needs rebilt and the 1.8 have bad problems with the heads cracking between the valves but like you said at least no bent valves with the 1.8 haha good luck:thumb:
 
I don't think size really has to do anything with it...

Take your typical Honda motor.

even in the new Honda which weigh between 2700-3000+ lbs have D15's and D16's in them (1.5L, and 1.6L

hell ####ing Mazda RX-7 Series (FB, FC, FD) weigh between 2k-2.8K and they only have a 1.2L and 1.3L motor. and they both haul some ass, especially the 1.3L motors.

I think its more the fact that for some reason Mitsubishi Made the engine slow on purpose it seems.

Your right, they did make it slow on purpose for good reason. If you wanted a faster car, you opted for the turbo model. If you wanted decent gas, you got the 1.8. Obviously your sacrificing power. Also, as far as a rotary motor, that isn't even comparable to a normal crank and piston engine. That's apples and oranges.
 
I think what your doing is cool. I always like seeing big numbers coming from little engines, however, I have to agree with Lofty. I picked up my full long block 6bolt for 350. I did an entire 6 bolt swap for less than 1000 dollars. (And I had to get a new clutch and flywheel)

But hey, the more power to you
 
Go for it man! Thats awesome! And doing something different for the only sake of being different is not ridiculous. Its only an opinion. True, it won't be faster than a 4g63 turbo. Not even faster than a stock one. It will be better and faster in its own level. This is a 1.8L 8v soch engine. So is should be compared to other engines of similar displacement, number of valves, cams, etc. You can't compare it with b16s or b18s. These engines are doch and are 16v. They make 100hp per litter. Even some of the 4g63t engines have trouble taking on these motors. You already know that there is an enigne with much more potential that the 4g37. You know that for power purposes the 4g63 is much more superionr that the 4g37. Its a fact. But yet, you want to build a 4g37. Let it be for the sake of a challenge, curiositly, being unique or just a stubborn tantrum.LOL Its reason enough and I respect that.
Remember that the same can be said about a 4 banger vs a V8. Alot of people say that 4 cylinders suck and all that. That the only way of making power is with a V8 or buying some exotic car such a porshe, ferrarri, lambo, etc. :rolleyes:
Just go for it man!! And if it doesn't work out, atleast you already know what not to do. besides, you said yourself on a previous post that you don't have high expectation for this project. With enough dedication, knowledge and of course money, you might be able to make a nasty beast out of this.
Keep us posted on this, as well as pictures and all that. It really does interest me.
Good luck man!!!

jorge.
 
OMG did he just really compare the rotary to a piston!!! wow dude.. the 1.3l rotary engine should not be in the same sentence as a 1.8l 4g37... Tell ya what... Get your beast done and then take it to the track.. I dont want to see a "dyno" number... I want to see track slip preferably with the picture of your car so the numbers match then i will be a believer.. I really cant see this car going any lower than a 14...
 
14's are kool with me :thumb:


FYI some of the people have been saying I trashed my 4g63 as in completely threw it away, If you read my first post, you will see that I finished the motor and sold it.


Also. I cant Afford Insurance on even a 4G63 N\A. let alone a Turbo or AWD DSM
The only way insurence would be affordable for me at my age on one of those is if i take a 1.8L chassis and put a 2.0L 2.0L T or 2.0L T AWD. but still register it as a 1.8L

Cops dont like me very much so my insurance is quite high.
 
14's are kool with me :thumb:


FYI some of the people have been saying I trashed my 4g63 as in completely threw it away, If you read my first post, you will see that I finished the motor and sold it.


Also. I cant Afford Insurance on even a 4G63 N\A. let alone a Turbo or AWD DSM
The only way insurence would be affordable for me at my age on one of those is if i take a 1.8L chassis and put a 2.0L 2.0L T or 2.0L T AWD. but still register it as a 1.8L

Cops dont like me very much so my insurance is quite high.

I don't even think my insurance went that much higher when I went from 1.8 to 2.0t Awd. They still are old cars that don't blue book worth dick. When my 1st 1g awd got totaled, (got hit by a woman), I got a whopping 1500bux. 1gs dont blue book for shat.
 
So swap to the 4g63. Same vin. Different harness :) You're not doing this for that reason though, so I get it :) . . . Just making the point that the insurance cost isn't a reason to keep the 1.8 . . . Insurance won't pay for the money/effort in the swap if some one hits you and it won't pay for the money/effort in the 1.8 build of someone hits you.
 
why is everyone trying to talk him out of something he wants to do... I say do what you want to do! I want to see how this turns out good. I want to see a fast 1.8 LOL.
 
I think they feel doing it just to be different isn't worth how hard it is or how much money you have to put in it. . .

. . . With that said, I hope you're not insinuating that I was part of the group of people suggesting that he abandon this project.
 
You will be happy with a 14 sec car??? wow way to set your goals high.. Maybe 14 sec cars are fast to you but not to the rest of the world.. Its honda fast LOL... There are many levels of fast to some people...There is honda fast(15+ sec), there is stock dsm fast(14-15 sec), then there is starting to get fast(13-14 sec), then i guess you can say your car is fast from 12s down...
 
I know 14 Sec isnt fast, I'm not aiming for fast.t


I've driven Mildy fast cars.

The fastest thing i ever drove was Modded Z06.

I had one problem with how fast it was.

you could really have fun unless you were doing 120 plus.

becuase it would be like...getting on the interstate...big on ramp......Gun it from a roll of about 25 in 2nd gear, 3\4s of the way down the on ramp im already doing 80+ and have to slow down, its like damn.

I mean yeah, it was hell of a lot of fun since it was a modded z06 (I\H\E + Ignition), and it was fun going around sharp corners in 2nd gear and just tapping the throttle so the back end twitched out for a second. and passing people on 2 lane roads. and doing my first brake stand. theres just a fine line there, when fast is too fast mainly becuase you cant have 100% of that fast. not saying you can never be fast enough but....driving a fast car is boring when you cant drive it fast.

And i say this on every forum. I'm not building a car to race, im just building a car out of purely my own interest. and to just cruise around town with.

If i get anything faster its gonna be something different unless i get a good deal on diff DSM

I really want to get a Rotary (12A, 13B, 13BT, 13BTT, 20BTT etc), or a 83-87 CRX with a Carburated Z\C motor. (135HP 1.6L Single Cam) or any Carburated Honda for that matter. Newer EFI Honda's= Ricers most wanted

Carburated Honda's = Ricer going "wtf is a carburetor?"
 
Carburated Honda for that matter. Newer EFI Honda's= Ricers most wanted

Carburated Honda's = Ricer going "wtf is a carburetor?"

Do you know why?

The old Hitachi lean burn carburetors are best left in the 80's. Those things are an absolute nightmare to service - over 80 pieces in the carb itself, with over 60 vacuum hoses used in the engine bay. Some Honda's even had two of the bloody things. It is an incredibly complex and finicky system with limited tuning potential, not to mention hard as hell to properly dial in. Good luck finding anyone left around that can service the things... even back in the 80's there weren't too many people other than the Honda service departments that would touch the stupid things. I have a friend with a '84 CRX with the CVCC... he can't find a soul other than me that knows how to work on them, including his local dealership. I've rebuilt my fair share of Honda carburetors, and I must say... I've never met anyone that voluntarily wanted one.

This little guy is a '84 with the CVCC. That box I have highlighted has around 12 vacuum hoses coming out of there, if memory serves. If you take off the air cleaner, it is a snake pit of vacuum hoses cross-crossing the entire engine bay. If you want one, more power to you. However, I think you should know what you'd be getting into. Heaven forbid should you get a vacuum leak... it practically takes a heart surgeon to track down the offending artery.

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