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The Feared 1.8L

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Boot92

10+ Year Contributor
184
4
Apr 19, 2009
Brentwood, Tennessee
MOD EDIT: thread cliffnotes: Dude claims to have built up car and took it to the dyno. In reality, the car never got built and never went to the dyno. OP photoshoped a dyno chart and made up the entire story to go along with it. This is a hoax. When called out, OP stayed silent. If you decide to read past this point, just know that this is a fraudulent build/story and that you're wasting your time.




I don't know how many of you remember and I don't know how many of you care, but I was rebuilding a 4G63 to put into my 1G DSM, I ended up finding out that my 1.8L Block had been bored out and decided to resurrect it and get rid of the 4G63 for rebuild money.

My 4G37 Has the Over Sized Works. It been bored 0.020 Over, its not alot but its potential, found this out by when I opened up my bottom end pulled the pistons out and realized they were practically brand new. I later on called the previous owner about this he didn't know anything about it, and gave me the number of the dude he bought it from.

He told me he had some machining done to the car when he rebuilt the bottom end at 185k miles and increased the bore.

So now I'm in this huge rebuilding this motor from the bottom end up.

Here's everything on my List that isn't Factory Spec (BOLD is I'm still waiting on the part or I don't have it yet. other wise stock for now)

*Bore 0.020 W\ The Works (not alot but it helps)
*Reground 272\260 Cam
*2.0L 4G63 Shaved Cam Gear
*4G37 Ported TB w\ Coolant Bypass
*Custom Intake Manifold (*ITB's later on in the future maybe)
*Gutted MAF
*Open Air Can Mod w\ High Flow Air Filter
*Intake Hard Pipe
*High Flow Cat
*Custom Headers
*2 1\2 Inch Exhaust System (Cat Back) (Custom Made with Big Name muffler haven't picked one yet)

*Ported Head (Maybe **Cyclone 12 Valve Swap In the Future)
*7K Redline
*Premium Rings + Bearings
*NGK Premium Plugs
*NGK Plug Wires
*Oil Catch Can
*A\C and Burden Pulley Elimination
*Stage 2 4G63 N\A Clutch
*Custom Lightweight Flywheel
*Maybe a Stand Alone ECU for the ITB's
*Custom Head Gasket
*Balance Shaft Elimination
*EGR Valve Elimination


The Great things about 1.8L 4G37 Motors is the Bottom End is practically a Tank, they can withstand tons amounts of abuse unless it is under HIGH Compression or Forced Induction, Along with the fact that The Stock 4G37 (8 Valve SOHC) and\or Cyclone (12 Valve SOHC) Valve train is made of Same Material as a 4G63T and can with Stand a 7k Redline stock these 1.8L motors are still in there Power Band at the stock Redline which is 6K.

I'm About Half way done with it I'm just now putting the motor back together, I hope to have it at least running with in 1-3 Weeks from now.
 
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I thought of why i was spending that much to swap half way though thinking it would be easier to just buy a running one! BUT every one i looked at came NOWHERE close to the shape my DL was in... i mean Almost Flawless! and reason i spend 2500 was parts and labor. mechine shop bored block for the 0.020 over Mahle forged pistons, Eagle rods, Walbro 255, new cv shafts rebuilt kits, brand new 3" turbo back cause DL exhaust doesnt work!

But im happy with what i spent!!!!!

thanks
 
Oh. . . definately see why you're spending that much money to have SOMEONE ELSE convert your car for you. But that's alot of money just not to wait for the real deal to come along. putting 2500-3000 into anything, I'll just wait until my investment nets the return I'm looking for. You may even catch a car with a better body. The later 1g cars have optional leather interior, they all have 4bolt rears (much stronger). And there's no way your getting an AWD conversion to a DL for that price. You'd have an AWD with better interior and good durability, if you can be more patient :) But I see why some do it. . .
 
Sounds pretty cool dude. Awesom that your block was pre bored :rocks:. Although it seems true that a cheapo 4g63t would possibly cost less to fix up than this and make more power, but I need to give you credit for going and doing something that few have done. Like above said, better make it a beast of a car :thumb:
 
Ok, I bought my 4G63 for 100$

After rebuilding it with Standard\Factory Parts and getting a completed swap. it would have cost me 1200$


How much is it costing me to rebuild my 4G37, with 0.020 Oversized parts?

250$ not including my Reground Cam....

hmm quite a difference, not to mention the things that come with doing this motor.

Reliability, Bragging Rights, Originality, Rarity, Never need to worry about Crankwalk, or Bending Valves

I have low expectations for this car.

It will be a beast, but it will be a Beast for a 1.8L

Talking with a lot of Hardcore 1.8L Tuners, a lot of them are agreeing that they would not be surprised if I made 175Whp or higher (this is including if I have my ITB's, Cyclone 12 Valve Head, and my Reground cam.) which really is fine for me becuase I'm not looking for anything real fast, just something fast enough to show up the Big Redneck Little Penis Turbo Diesel Trucks driving around which my moms 115Hp Jetta can do...barely ROFL .

EDIT: from what I've noticed alot of the people who hate the 1.8L, are people who have never owned one.
that 1.8L does only push 92Hp, but it pushes 105 ft lbs. which Honda's with like 120whp, don't even make for TQ.
also the 1.8L is geared very well, so it helps you accelerate pretty well.
 
your gonna need a lot of work to make a 1.8 sohc make decent power. even if its bored over. your just at a disadvantage from the get go. one cam, small displacement.. and why try to hang with a d16, when there are v8 to be hunting...
 
"Because I'm not on Pinks, so Wining and losing doesn't matter to me." ~Raplh AKA Redline6k~

I just want a car, that I built, that I tuned, that no one else tunes, or has an Identical of. Basically I want a Underdog.


If' I wanted to walk some V8's I'd take out 3-6K$ and do what i call a "Ralph" Turbo Build.

for those who don't know him he had a Turbo 4G37 1.8L that withstood 50lbs of boost, and is almost finished with his new build which is expected to make 400+ WHP
 
actually I'm In TN, but I'm FROM wisconsin,

We have Emissions in TN, it blows, but I mite just do what I did with my honda, and thats fab up a Bolt in, Bolt out Straight pipe, and Cat
 
1200 for a stock rebuilt 4g63? where is this, I need to move there and start making some $$$

swade
 
"Because I'm not on Pinks, so Wining and losing doesn't matter to me." ~Raplh AKA Redline6k~

I just want a car, that I built, that I tuned, that no one else tunes, or has an Identical of. Basically I want a Underdog.

If' I wanted to walk some V8's I'd take out 3-6K$ and do what i call a "Ralph" Turbo Build.

for those who don't know him he had a Turbo 4G37 1.8L that withstood 50lbs of boost, and is almost finished with his new build which is expected to make 400+ WHP

To this I can relate. You want the sense of accomplishment that Giants had in the superbowl against the Patriots :) . You want a challange to meet your goal. Your goal is only a couple hundred horsepower. It would be more difficult to do with the 4g37. . . which is the reason why you've chosen to do that over swapping in a stock 4g6* motor with stock IC, etc and upping the stock boost to 15psi.
 
To this I can relate. You want the sense of accomplishment that Giants had in the superbowl against the Patriots :) . You want a challange to meet your goal. Your goal is only a couple hundred horsepower. It would be more difficult to do with the 4g37. . . which is the reason why you've chosen to do that over swapping in a stock 4g6* motor with stock IC, etc and upping the stock boost to 15psi.

You are so dead on :thumb: +1
 
Oh. . . definately see why you're spending that much money to have SOMEONE ELSE convert your car for you. But that's alot of money just not to wait for the real deal to come along. putting 2500-3000 into anything, I'll just wait until my investment nets the return I'm looking for. You may even catch a car with a better body. The later 1g cars have optional leather interior, they all have 4bolt rears (much stronger). And there's no way your getting an AWD conversion to a DL for that price. You'd have an AWD with better interior and good durability, if you can be more patient :) But I see why some do it. . .

ya.... i was worried about the rebuild of the engine so i had some one do it cause i wanted it done right... the swap i could have done myself... but i don't have all the trucks and trailers and tools to get it here and there and all that shit!!!

but enough of me stealing this thread!!
 
1.8L has a great powerband stock, but put a 12 Valve Cyclone head on there, its pretty much like putting the powerband on steriods

No offense man but upgrading an 8valve sohc head to a 12 valve head is far from putting the power band on "steroids". My old 1.8 was the biggest TURD I have ever driven. I daily drive a 1.5 dual point injection crx with 250k on it and that thing feels like a race car compared to my old 1.8. I like that your trying to be different tho, and I wish you the best of luck.
 
wow talk about irragant, did you read anything from my mod list.


read my post better before you try to put in your 2 cents


When I said putting the power band on steroids i didn't mean, adds ass loads of HP

I mean it made the power band better, mainly at top end.
 
No not really ARROGANT, just more realistic. Yes I did see your mod list. Like I said, nice to see something different. Good luck.
 
Hmm not sure what to make of it.. I just bought a 90 tsi for 250 bucks and my powerband is already out of your range... Lets see... needs an ecu.. 60 bucks, 50 bucks for a 2g mas, 60 bucks for evo injectors, 50 bucks for a used 190lph, 20 bucks for my H.D. MBC, at about 18 psi on the 14b with less than 500 bucks... damn quick car for cheap...

But anyways good luck man. I understand you want to be different but i honestly like to go fast.. I daily drive my car.. 39 minutes one way to work.. 24 psi on pump.. about 27mpgs.. thats why i bought that 1g.. I need a dd and i could have bought a n/t 2.0 for 500 with a new head but why would i want a n/t when you can easily find a turbo for cheap..

P.s. What does your .020 bore make you happy for.. Honestly whenever you do any type of motorwork stock or not you should do a bore.. Straightens the cyl walls.. They make evo 9 in a .020 bore.. Npr's .020s are like 120 shipped on ebay with wristpins...
 
I appreciate unique interests but you should just sell it and get a turbo car. Custom ITB, stand alone all added together for a N/A 1.8 will cost more than a clean gst. Blazing trails is usually more expensive. Your only hope is to boost it.
 
It seems like you were going to scrap the project until you found that the engine was "bored over". as if you stumbled on a gold mine powerhouse John Force edition 1.8....

Do you think that an overbored engine makes it some huge displacement power house now or something? Just curious if you really understand whats involved in an "overbore".

Seems like alot of work to me to complete with stock hondas. :confused:
 
Yeah well finding a 1.8L block that you thought was stock was bored .020 over, and had High compression 10:1 Forged Pistons (this i just found out this morning) is a gold mine to some people.

and i only thought it was stock becuase thats what I expected, and i had never driven, or even been in a 1.8L DSM before so I didnt know how a stock one felt. now that I've been in other 1.8L's I cant tell that mine was somewhat quicker. especially at low end. its a little more tourqy.


Decided To ditch the 12 Valve Cyclone head, just becuase, they are hard to find, and not worth the price when you do find one.

Updated List (New shit is BOLD)


*Bore 0.020 W\ The Works (not alot but it helps)
*Forged 10:1 High Compression Pistons
*Reground 272\260 Cam
*2.0L 4G63 Shaved Cam Gear
*4G37 Ported TB w\ Coolant Bypass
*Custom Light Weight Flywheel
*Custom Intake Manifold (*ITB's later on in the future maybe)
*Gutted MAF
*Open Air Can Mod w\ High Flow Air Filter
*Intake Hard Pipe
*High Flow Cat
*Custom Headers
*2 1\2 Inch Exhaust System (Cat Back) (Custom Made with Big Name muffler haven't picked one yet)
*Ported Head
*Premium Rings + Bearings
*NGK Premium Plugs
*NGK Plug Wires
*Oil Catch Can
*A\C and Burden Pulley Elimination
*Stage 2 4G63 N\A Clutch
*Custom Lightweight Flywheel
*Maybe a Stand Alone ECU for the ITB's
*Custom Head Gasket
*Balance Shaft Elimination
*EGR Valve Elimination
*Titanium Valve Springs
*Custom Valves




No not really ARROGANT, just more realistic. Yes I did see your mod list. Like I said, nice to see something different. Good luck.

I meant Ignorant, and sorry to jump off the gun like that, it just seemed like that you were acting like that i thought that all i needed was a 12 valve head and id gain 10000HP.



Seems like alot of work to me to complete with stock hondas. :confused:


yeah, well so is a 4g63 swap, not to mention it cost more.
 
I had a 94 talon 1.8!! I beat the shit out of that thing for three years with no problem...
Good Luck!!!!
 
Just to clear things up. My car has never seen 50psi. It's seen 15psi and then the head gasket blew.
 
I could have sworn I read on 4G37tuners that you said it with stood 50 PSI....

:Confused:

oh i see now, You were talking abouth ow much PSI your Manifold with stood.

MY badd people, now i feel dumb haha.
 
Truthfully, I'd wish that Mitsu used the 4G63 SOHC that was used in the early Galants as their base motor then took the 4G64, put a DOHC on it with proper stroke and bore along with a turbo to match and then the DSM would have had been one sensational "road rocket' to be had.

The 4G37, IMO, was just a bit too small and light for the size and weight of chassis that was built around it, even though it was a lighter chassis (a D-21) than the D-22 for the 4G63 FWD and the D-27 for the 4G63 Turbo AWD.

-DSM
 
I don't think size really has to do anything with it...

Take your typical Honda motor.

even in the new Honda which weigh between 2700-3000+ lbs have D15's and D16's in them (1.5L, and 1.6L

hell ####ing Mazda RX-7 Series (FB, FC, FD) weigh between 2k-2.8K and they only have a 1.2L and 1.3L motor. and they both haul some ass, especially the 1.3L motors.

I think its more the fact that for some reason Mitsubishi Made the engine slow on purpose it seems.
 
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