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The 14b Drag Race Discussion Thread

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Thats crazy! Thanks for the info!
 
Again, way to go Shane! It's awesome that you stuck with the 14b for this long and accomplished your goal! It should be a lot of fun now to start playing with a bigger turbo!
 
Looks like some of us are gonna try to get back over to using the forums over FB. How’s everyone doing?? I kinda saw a certain car getting parted out for legitimate reasons. Anyone else have 14b plans?

I took a few steps back and started messing with a stock auto car and the 13g. Trying to see how much I can squeeze out on a street car level. Really looking forward to growing into the 14b in this car since I’ve learned so much over the past year. Not quite sure what it’ll run since the car is auto and weighs in at about 3k with driver. But the 13g did go 13.5@98 with some grow room.
 
I've got some vague plans to try my trusty old 14b and 16g on our 2g. I want to try a single turbo on it and make a run at True Street in November. I think we can get this car to 2550 just by removing the compound turbos, alternator, and a few other things not being used. It's got the right converter for small turbos in it right now, so why not toss them on real quick and see what it does. The car does need a little work (loose flexplate, hopefully), and will need some light fab work to put a single on it, and I've got nowhere to work on it until I put up a building. We'll see how this goes.
 
It's no secret that I had a LOT of fun with the 16g on my car, but it's just not set up well for low horsepower, even less so since 2014 when I redid the whole suspension for 60 foots in the teens without wheelies. The 16g actually slowed down to 10.5 after that, and the 14b was hopeless at ~12.0, it spun the tires badly. It seems counterintuitive for less power to result in more wheel spin, but the car is setup to use the HP to hook the tire. The small turbo chassis setup would be totally different. And the converter was not right either, it was too loose, slipping to 6k+, and I was shifting and crossing the traps at 7k. Too big a tire, the list goes on.

The 2g will be a little heavier, 175 lbs if we can get it to 2550. But, the converter is much tighter. We're barely spooling the 68hta secondary on it. The engine setup is very similar to my car, intake manifold, cams, etc but I can work with all that. And the tire/chassis setup is much more appropriate for the small turbos. It will probably work with no changes. The extra low gear will help with the added weight. I think it would be a fun experiment, before I send the converter out and ruin it for small turbos. :D
 
I've never had it open, so I can't be sure what the parts are, but it was called a Bradco "nitrous" converter. It's very tight, 22-2300 rpm at 0 psi, and slippage is practically 0 from ~6k up at 700 whp.
 
My project has been in limbo for awhile, just needs fuel, IC pipes, and wiring to run. Unfortunately I moved and it's been stored at my work with limited access and no time to wrench lately. Hoping to bring it home soon and start picking at it over the winter and get it out when the tracks open.
 
Hey Guys!

I did a lot of re-reading in this thread. I wish I was more active in it, but much of the conversation here was during a time where I was distancing myself from car stuff. New wife, new house, new daughter... Grown up stuff.

As many of you know I am building a new race car. It's basically what my I wish my Goodwill Laser was. The Laser was always a "budget" car. Cut it up, use inexpensive parts and put in the time. This new car was intended to be built with no restrictions. 4 years in, I decided I still don't have the kind of money it takes for that kind of build, and decided to scale it back some. I still think I built the chassis how I wanted. No cutting. "Full" interior. I spent real money on real lightweight parts to save the weight on this one. I started with a bare, media blasted shell and went from there.

The plan for the drivetrain was to start with a Max Effort 62mm turbo setup for WCF True Street and IFO FIS. I wanted to use an auto, and I planned to build a big displacement motor with a 2g head/evo3 intake setup so I could get on the converter without nitrous. When I was satisfied with the results on that setup, I intended to move to a SFWD, 72mm turbo setup, as SFWD was ultimately where I want to race. Then things changed a bit...

At this point, I decided to throw together a low dollar motor with off the shelf Wisecos and Manley H-Beams using a 2.0 N/T block I had lying around. The plan was to put my 14b on it. Yes, THAT 14b. I still have it!!! Then, I came across a great deal on a 68HTA, and decided to go that route.

So at this point, that motor is in the car with a mildly build FWD Auto trans. the fuel system is almost complete. I have to plumb the cooling system and trans cooler. Then build the engine and chassis harnesses. Lastly, it needs front and rear windows and paint.

I just want to get it running. Bring it to the track. Make passes. Enjoy it. I probably won't bang my head against the wall chasing numbers. As soon as any bugs are ironed out on the 68hta, I'll be moving to a larger turbo.

You can follow along at YouTube.com/JoeWrenches if you like.

In the meantime, I should be more available on forums if anyone has any questions for me. I will do my best to remember. 14b days were a LONG time ago!!!
 
I've never had it open, so I can't be sure what the parts are, but it was called a Bradco "nitrous" converter. It's very tight, 22-2300 rpm at 0 psi, and slippage is practically 0 from ~6k up at 700 whp.

How tight would it be compared to say a stock converter?

My project has been in limbo for awhile, just needs fuel, IC pipes, and wiring to run. Unfortunately I moved and it's been stored at my work with limited access and no time to wrench lately. Hoping to bring it home soon and start picking at it over the winter and get it out when the tracks open.
Think you’ll be sending it down the track this year?? Doesn’t sound like you have to much left to do.
Hey Guys!

I did a lot of re-reading in this thread. I wish I was more active in it, but much of the conversation here was during a time where I was distancing myself from car stuff. New wife, new house, new daughter.......

The myth, the man, the legend. Good to see you back around here.

I say give that 14b a couple passes down the track for old times sake!!
 
Think you’ll be sending it down the track this year?? Doesn’t sound like you have to much left to do.

I bought a truck and trailer for it last year then got busy. If I don't make time for this year then I'll probably end up selling it to a friend and he'll be swapping the parts to his race shell. I can probably convince him to keep the 14b on as a "break-in" turbo for a few passes if it comes to that but I'm hoping to have it out by spring.
 
I've never even seen a stock converter, or run one. But if someone has the numbers to compare to what I gave above (2 liter at/around sea level), particularly the RPM at 0 psi, we could try to make a comparison. It won't be perfect of course, since different setups make different torque at 0 psi, but it's a start. I'm sure I've got logs from a dozen customers with stock converters but I don't remember any names to go looking for one. 2300 rpm comes out to a k factor of about 187 using Kiggly's 5 ftlb per psia per liter estimate. I normally like to be around 250 on my car, or 3000 rpm at 0 psi.

To put it another way, this converter was barely spooling at sea level on the 68hta on E85, it took around 10 seconds. At 800 feet for the Shootout, it wouldn't spool, I had to switch it to methanol in qualifying. And more recently, going to a thicker head gasket also killed its ability to spool at sea level. It now needs a 20 shot to spool at this lower compression ratio. Right on that edge. I suspect the 16g would still be slow to come up but the 14b would be ok.
 
My 1980 colt ran 11.6 @123 mph in 2017 with really bad tires and current setup fpgreen hta kelford 264 2400ish race weight manual awd.
I finally put some half decent tires on it. Re71s. I also upgraded a few other things but the car doesnt make much power. Maybe 400 at the crank I expect it will run 11-11.5 in 2 weeks.
Car still doesnt have a cage so where will i go from there?

Gonna go after my own 14b record of course!
I did 12.78 104 with this car in 2017 with a stick tired engine/14b pump gas no ecmlink

I dont have any other small turbos atm i could use a 7 cm or 6 cm for a little more oomph. I could use an all stock 92 longblock i also have a 9-1 2.3 stroker i could put in. Ill just leave in the 8.5-1 kelford 264 engine for now.

Almost more excited for this than i am to try for a 10.99.
 
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I am going to give this a go. I don’t expect a miracle being that I race at 5,800ft. Last time I went to the track our density altitude was 8,300ft. And I am quite heavy at 2400-2410lbs race weight. Hopefully I can get in the 100-103mph range and go low 13’s.

The best we did before in a light awd car here was 13.4@100. The cool part is I will be tuning using turbine backpressure. I am excited to start using that data to know where and how far to push it.

I am also excited to see how the 10cm T3 turbine housing works as well. Here is a picture of the setup.
 
Started a build thread with some more info on the car here: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/steve93talon-14b-record-build.523347/

Making lots of progress lately, motivation is coming back! Wiring, fuel mostly buttoned up this weekend. Just need cooling system, IC piping, and a couple odds and ends to fire and tune it. Then a few more things to make it track ready. More updates soon!
 
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