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The 14b Drag Race Discussion Thread

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The crank pulley isn't gonna gain or lose any measurable power, it's all about what you want to run.

I use Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic, it's a 5W40 Diesel engine oil but has the same properties as most race oils but at a fraction of the price. Both my Mitsu's are loving it so far.
 
Diesel oil is also under the same requirements to reduce zinc/etc content over time and has already gone to shit over the last few years, and is scheduled to get even worse. I wouldn't trust it unless you know the exact content of that particular blend and keep up with it each year. Still better than mobil 1 though.
 
Shell's website shows a lot of info about the oil, they added lots of phosphorus and zinc. Also, one of the members here (can't remember the username) runs it and he had it tested and it was just as good as racing oils.
 
Starting to drop the weight on my car! Pretty excited to see some weight start coming out.

On the down side, I had bought what was thought to be a jmfab race I/M, but it had no serial number and some minor things that weren't jmfab quality. So I returned it and just got my money back. Debating on whether or not to order a manifold or just run the stock one for a while. I might just pull the stock one, port the t/b inlet clean up the runners and call it a day.
 
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Starting to drop the weight on my car! Pretty excited to see some weight start coming out.

On the down side, I had bought what was thought to be a jmfab race I/M, but it had no serial number and some minor things that weren't jmfab quality. So I returned it and just got my money back. Debating on whether or not to order a manifold or just run the stock one for a while. I might just pull the stock one, port the t/b inlet clean up the runners and call it a day.

Nice! Oh, bummer on that mani, but, great you were refunded. I think the stock mani will do you right. The stock mani's main fault is it's weight.
 
I have one of those jmfab's laying around but i just don't think it will be a great idea to use it on a small turbo car, even if it can give slightly more top end it's probably not going to make for a better area under the square. That is the only reason i don't run it but i have thought about making some experiments with it sometime.
 
I was talking with Dave (pneumo) about this and he picked up just enough power to run just fast enough to take the record. It wasn't much of a difference, but the difference in being #2 and holding the record. And I'm not really looking for area under the curve on a 14b, peak power is pretty much what it's all about. The 14b is going to spool and be fine on the low end regardless what I/M you run on it...it's the high side that you have to do every little thing you can think of for efficiency!
 
I was talking with Dave (pneumo) about this and he picked up just enough power to run just fast enough to take the record. It wasn't much of a difference, but the difference in being #2 and holding the record. And I'm not really looking for area under the curve on a 14b, peak power is pretty much what it's all about. The 14b is going to spool and be fine on the low end regardless what I/M you run on it...it's the high side that you have to do every little thing you can think of for efficiency!

Ok? And I ran quicker than Dave on a stock manifold, 100% stock engine to be exact.

Either way it looks like you answered your own question so I guess there's no real debate.
 
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I pulled my jmf street off to run an extrude hone just for the 14b. Will the jmf make more power than the stock?? Theres a good chance it does. Is it in a usable powerband to help out 1/4 mile times? Probably not. The stock 6-bolt record holders made almost 700 through a ported stock manifold.
 
I see what you are saying Phil, but I'm comparing the same car with two different manifolds. Your car weighs a LOT less than Dave's car...probably by 250lb or so. BTW - he does still have the record for highest hp with 325whp on that JMF manifold! ;)

And I'm not saying that the stock manifold won't work great on the 14b, just some ideas. I would love to have an extrude honed stock manifold but for the cost of extrude honing, I might as well go ahead and get an aftermarket manifold for a little more money. That's why I am just going to pull the stock manifold, port it for the 63mm throttle body, clean it up as much as I can and use it. Only cost a few bucks for some new carbide bits and that's about it. I have the other materials already!

Speaking of the weight on the stock manifold, can those big thick braces be cut off and smoothed down? Might not be much weight removed, but it would give a little extra work space on top of the manifold!
 
I see what you are saying Phil, but I'm comparing the same car with two different manifolds. Your car weighs a LOT less than Dave's car...probably by 250lb or so. BTW - he does still have the record for highest hp with 325whp on that JMF manifold! ;)

And I'm not saying that the stock manifold won't work great on the 14b, just some ideas. I would love to have an extrude honed stock manifold but for the cost of extrude honing, I might as well go ahead and get an aftermarket manifold for a little more money. That's why I am just going to pull the stock manifold, port it for the 63mm throttle body, clean it up as much as I can and use it. Only cost a few bucks for some new carbide bits and that's about it. I have the other materials already!


Who says you gotta have yours done? I bought two in the last year both for $175 shipped. I just put up a wtb and waited for responses. There was no way I was paying what they want to have it done.
 
I see what you are saying Phil, but I'm comparing the same car with two different manifolds. Your car weighs a LOT less than Dave's car...probably by 250lb or so. BTW - he does still have the record for highest hp with 325whp on that JMF manifold! ;)

And I'm not saying that the stock manifold won't work great on the 14b, just some ideas. I would love to have an extrude honed stock manifold but for the cost of extrude honing, I might as well go ahead and get an aftermarket manifold for a little more money. That's why I am just going to pull the stock manifold, port it for the 63mm throttle body, clean it up as much as I can and use it. Only cost a few bucks for some new carbide bits and that's about it. I have the other materials already!

Speaking of the weight on the stock manifold, can those big thick braces be cut off and smoothed down? Might not be much weight removed, but it would give a little extra work space on top of the manifold!

Oh, it's way more than 250! :) I understand your comparo. Just saying...
Sure, he's got the most power. If he's gonna compete any further, he's gonna have to drop weight. If I can match his power in my car, our ET's won't be separated by .02, probably more like .40 and trap speed might be at or over 120 in an AWD.

Agreed, extrudehone is expensive as all hell. Don't know if I'm even gonna bother with it.
 
I know what you mean Phil. If everyone could make the same power, obviously the amount of weight some people have shed would make a big difference!

I'll try that Justin and see if I find anything...unless you have one still that you want to let go of!
 
I know what you mean Phil. If everyone could make the same power, obviously the amount of weight some people have shed would make a big difference!

I'll try that Justin and see if I find anything...unless you have one still that you want to let go of!

I had two replies on link for these. The one guy wanted to much but he dropped his price after I bought my last one. I'll see if I can find his info. You on the link forums??
 
Yes sir. I'll post a WTB there as well. Thanks for the help!
 
I think you guys all have good points, it's probably going to have to come down again to actually testing it in the real world and not in theory. I finally got myself for birthday a vbox gps datalogger so whenever i get my junk running again, i'm all for making some real world experiments.. none of that simulated dyno ***t :D
 
Justin, the I/M you mentioned is sold. I found the thread. But I kept searching and got hooked up. Found another extrude honed manifold and some AGX rear shocks with Eibach springs. Everything only has 8-10 passes and only a couple miles on the street, so the owner says. Getting all of it for $225 shipped!!!
 
I think you guys all have good points, it's probably going to have to come down again to actually testing it in the real world and not in theory. I finally got myself for birthday a vbox gps datalogger so whenever i get my junk running again, i'm all for making some real world experiments.. none of that simulated dyno ***t :D

I have the jmf and once I get the car more dialed in I don't mind doin some real track testing between the two. I'll just have to make the adapter plate for my q45 to stock tb work. The cable sits at an awkward angle and the q45 is gonna be way to big for this setup.

Justin, the I/M you mentioned is sold. I found the thread. But I kept searching and got hooked up. Found another extrude honed manifold and some AGX rear shocks with Eibach springs. Everything only has 8-10 passes and only a couple miles on the street, so the owner says. Getting all of it for $225 shipped!!!

That's a deal right there.
 
I think my yellow '13 build is going back to basics on the head/intake again. likely back to normal 1g parts and a stock low rpm intake manifold to start off the season. While I think the E3 intake manifold and 2g head are the best parts for a 14b combo, frankly, Im just run out of 2g heads to work with. But have at least 5 1g heads kicking around the shop.

budget for 13 is pretty much nothing, so its back to scrounging around to make the car run. And I'd rather run it with a less than ideal setup than see it sit as a shell for another year.
 
Any updates from anyone? Or is everyone taking it slow and planning to build over the winter?
 
Any updates from anyone? Or is everyone taking it slow and planning to build over the winter?

I went last week but it was a complete disaster. I made two 14 second passes spinning the slicks all the way through third gear. It was very cold and windy with no vht. I had the slicks at 14 psi. Afterwards I lowered them to 6psi but didn't get anymore passes in because my alternator went out on me. On the way home all my lights went out and I was driving blacked out at night. Also the car shut off twice and I had to jump it in the middle of the street both times. I vow not to go back without a trailer and not unless they are spraying VHT..

I was hoping to go again last night. I installed a hitch on my wife's jeep and was planning on trailering it out there but my wife was feeling sick and throwing up (she's pregnant) so I decided to stay home. I'm hoping with the lower tire pressure, a much better burnout, and VHT I can get the slicks to stick. Maybe next week.
 
At least an alternator is an easy fix.
 
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