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t04b(v-trim) Bolt on Discussion

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Ok guys how about forgetting what happened and keep what we had going. David i'm going to give you guys a call tomorrow, i received my turbo and im having some problems, the internal wastegate flap doesn't fully close, and i'm not positive but i beleive the seals are not too good, or are completely gone. The cars smokes. Can i send the turbo back and have you guys check it out?
 
Of course we will take care of it. But give me a call first so we can run down other issues that may be the cause.
 
Did you change the oil? Is the valve cover vented? Is the oil drain line kinked?

whitegst97 said:
i'm not positive but i beleive the seals are not too good, or are completely gone. The cars smokes.
 
The only reason it could smoke from the get go would be the drain or too much oil pressure. The turbo cant have more than 55 psi. Sometimes when you come off the oil filter housing you end up with a turbo that smokes. We'll get to the bottom of it, call me tomorrow.
 
Where do you recommend feeding these turbos from? Stock head location? Most cars will make 55psi at the oil filter housing, and many turbos have been fed there with no problems. However, if his car has a new oil pump, and removed balance shafts, and block-off bearings, then his oil pressure will be MUCH higher. This is a cause for oil leakage past the seals. I have this problem on my FP Green. But the turbo has been run this way for almost 2 yrs. It just developed the problem. HOwever, there is NO smoke whatsoever out of the exhaust. Only sign is a small amt. of oil leaking out of the comp. inlet.
 
FP recommends the green to be fed from the oil filter housing.
 
Well the oil return line is a bit turned and twisted, i don't know if i received the wrong one but my mechanic had to add some type of coupler to extend it, the coupler was about 1" in length so now the line was a bit longer than what it needed to be. The oil pump is the same as always and nothing different has been done to the car that would increase the oil pressure. I also did change the oil and added new one. The valve cover is vented as well. Thanks for your comments and replies.
 
I too purchase a TO4B H3 but have reframed from giving a through review due to numerous problems with the car. These problems are keeping me from running full out:
  • Oil blowing out the tail pipe at high boost levels.
  • Blow off valve flutter and low and medium boost
  • Exhaust gas leak at the manifold (between turbo and manifold)
  • Anti-seized turbo bolts and they are coming loose too often (may add lock washers)
  • flex section broke (rewelded new section 6wks ago, could be due to motor mounts)
Once I get these issues lined out I will be able to give a better assesment of what the turbo is doing...
 
NOSLO2PT0 said:
Where do you recommend feeding these turbos from? Stock head location? Most cars will make 55psi at the oil filter housing, and many turbos have been fed there with no problems. However, if his car has a new oil pump, and removed balance shafts, and block-off bearings, then his oil pressure will be MUCH higher. This is a cause for oil leakage past the seals. I have this problem on my FP Green. But the turbo has been run this way for almost 2 yrs. It just developed the problem. HOwever, there is NO smoke whatsoever out of the exhaust. Only sign is a small amt. of oil leaking out of the comp. inlet.

Your exactly right, most are fed there without any issues and the reasons you mentioned will raise the oil pressure to above 55 psi. Our kits only allow you to tap in to the filter housing which is the "cleanest" location. It should be the very top fitting as well, the lower fittings are unfiltered. Tapping in to the lower fittings would likely cause the oil pressure to be higher. A restrictor may need to be used on certain applications that cause the turbo to smoke.
 
There's a misconception that turbos have oil seals and that they can "Blow out", this is not exactly true. On each side of the turbo there is a piston ring, this ring rides in a groove. One on the turbine shaft itself near the exhaust wheel and one in the seal (back) plate. Upon assembly this rings is gently pressed in and expands in this groove. This ring will eventually wear over time, faster on non-watercooled or non-turbo timed turbochargers due to "coaking". Once they wear, oil is able to pass through to the compressor or turbine housing causing it to smoke. Even on brand new turbochargers these rings can only "hold back" so much oil or oil pressure so that or the oil drain not functioning at 100% would likely be the cause.
 

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What i meant by the coupler was that it made the drain line larger by about 1" not increase the diameter by 1/2". What i said about the 1/2" was that the drain line was this size, and i beleive this is a good enough size to prevent flooding or not good enough flow. When i get the mechanic to remove the turbo, i'll have him take pics of the drain line to show how exactly it was mounted. Thanks for the explanation about the seals. So there is a chance that if there's too much oil inside and is not able to get out properly, the seals even brand new won't hold the pressure inside.
 
Before you remove the turbo just double check that the drain isn't kinked, the mechanic removed the protective tape off the bottom of the turbo (drain flange). Also, be sure the oil feed is connected to the top fitting on the oil filter housing. I dont want you to send the turbo back without ruling out all other possibilities.
 
Defenitely, the oil line isn't kinked, both tapes that sealed the inlet and outlet i have with me and taped to the turbo box, so the were removed, and yes sir the oil feed line is connected to the top part of the oil filter housing. This is were the oil feed to the t-25 was coming from.
 
OK, no sweat. We will replace it with one in our inventory and wait for Garrett to cover it under their 90 day warranty. Sorry for the terrible inconvenience and delay.
 
boostcreep said:
I too purchase a TO4B H3 but have reframed from giving a through review due to numerous problems with the car. These problems are keeping me from running full out:
  • Oil blowing out the tail pipe at high boost levels.
  • Blow off valve flutter and low and medium boost
  • Exhaust gas leak at the manifold (between turbo and manifold)
  • Anti-seized turbo bolts and they are coming loose too often (may add lock washers)
  • flex section broke (rewelded new section 6wks ago, could be due to motor mounts)
Once I get these issues lined out I will be able to give a better assesment of what the turbo is doing...

wow you are a rare breed my friend. Many people would slap the turbo onto a car with those issues and then blame problems on the turbo. Well played sir. :thumb:
 
David the problem that i was orginally going to send the turbo was because the internal gate flap doesn't close at idle. The Flap stays open, the actuator arm was adjusted in every direction and we even held ourselves the flap fully close with pliers. It leaks, i'm able to tell because my 02 is dumping, and is loud and clear that is open. Thank you very much for your support and great customer service.
 
NOSLO2PT0 said:
Good to see we are looking out for our fellow DSM brothers.

I'm following the rules created by the site owner, you have a problem with that, PM him.
Some people in this thread were not following the rules hence their posts were deleted. If you want to continue to break the rules with your posts that's your own choice, but don't think I will let it continue.
 
boostcreep said:
  • Oil blowing out the tail pipe at high boost levels.
  • Blow off valve flutter and low and medium boost
  • Exhaust gas leak at the manifold (between turbo and manifold)
  • Anti-seized turbo bolts and they are coming loose too often (may add lock washers)
  • flex section broke (rewelded new section 6wks ago, could be due to motor mounts)
Once I get these issues lined out I will be able to give a better assesment of what the turbo is doing...


1. Either feed the turbo from the head (if recommended by the manufacturer), or get a new turbo, as your chra may be shot.
2. Get a softer spring (read: one that doesn't take as much vacuum to open) in the BOV.
3. Tighten the turbo --> manifold bolts down AFTER the car warms up.
4. See #3.
5. That will actually make the car faster but louder.
 
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