The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

T04b V-trim Install & Comments

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

HOLY #$!%#! $%#$@! OMG

I took the v-trim out for a spin... race fmic, tial, fpr, 660's, walbro fp, safcII, maft, "maf... ok I'm used to the 14b on 15psi :coy:

THIS TURBO HAULED LIKE A RAPED APE AND I COULN'T BE HAPPIER!
I've riden and driven low 13 sec rides, lightnings and an 11 sec camero...
I'd put money on my ride, un-tuned. :rocks:

FPR is at 38-40psi, SAFCII is -17 30/83 all the way across, maft is at 0.
No fuel cut and I can't keep the damn thing from staying under 20 psi,
it spikes QUICK. 4kRPM and BOOM boost is WAY up there. Even with the MBC
it's boosting like that. I don't understand :confused:

vacuum line goes Manifold T'd into the BOV and the IN side on MBC, then seperate line from MBC OUT to WGA. :confused:

Pray for my head gasket, in the mean time does any of my setup look nuts or crazy?
Stock everything motor, head, etc.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Get to the track, would love to see some times! :thumb:
 
This saturday I plan to beat (even if I don't win cause someone already made it) the turbo challenge results. This saturday, up here in Anchorage, Alaska they have a hot rod gathering and the corvettes and super modified cars show up and cruise out 30 minutes to the valley (where the alaska raceway is) They do judging and then they call it "run what you brung" free passes, only one lane is open.

There is still a huge displacement over fast is fast mentality up here.
They don't care if it's a 4 banger and runs 11's cause they're running 12's on
4 more cylinders.... so when you DO make a killer pass, you get a crowd
who wants to see how in the hell you did that. It's insane. :sneaky:

I'm the only V-trim up here that I know of and I hope to make bullseye look good.
The forced performance thing is cool but IMO I think the 3065 is over rated.

How are you guys doing with "lag" I don't see it at all. 3.5K and my turbo is
spooled and ready to rock.

Also a little off-topic but I'm looking at the scanmaster for logging etc.
Is the knock count on that "accurate"?
 
For the guys getting boost creep with this turbo, I'm also getting it. I'm running a punishment racing 2.5" o2 housing w/ a dump. I can't keep the boost under 20 + psi, I've adjusted everything I can think of. The flapper seemed like it was getting hung up so I greased it, but it still creeps. I ground out some of the material on the arm that is connected to the flapper, still creeps. I've got the w/g arm adjusted just enough to keep the flapper closed and the boost just goes straight to 22 or so psi and I let off. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.
 
I also had the "insane boost" issue. here's what I'd do. If you're using a MBC, take it out. Go from the BOV to the Wastegate actuator. T that into the intake manifold port.
Ok.. also the actuator arm. You've got to take the cotter pin out and the more OUT (closer to the driver side) you move it, the less boost you'll make. The more IN (towards the passenger side) the more boost you'll make. I've got mine past the middle towards the passenger side and I'm making about 15 for now. Give that a shot, and also make sure you don't have any of your BOV/WGA/MANI lines backwards. :thumb:
 
just_passed_you said:
I also had the "insane boost" issue. here's what I'd do. If you're using a MBC, take it out. Go from the BOV to the Wastegate actuator. T that into the intake manifold port.
Ok.. also the actuator arm. You've got to take the cotter pin out and the more OUT (closer to the driver side) you move it, the less boost you'll make. The more IN (towards the passenger side) the more boost you'll make. I've got mine past the middle towards the passenger side and I'm making about 15 for now. Give that a shot, and also make sure you don't have any of your BOV/WGA/MANI lines backwards. :thumb:

The actuator arm is as far out as it will go, but just enough so that the flapper stays closed. WOT in 2nd gear it boosts 24+psi and I let off. Believe me I've tried everything. David is tryin to help as well. I dont have a MBC hooked up to it at all. I can hear the w/g open at about 10-12 psi, but the thing keeps building boost...and fast :D its just too much boost.
 
maybe someone can help with my problem, pretty much the opposite of yours...i cant get over 15psi no matter what i do with the actuator. any ideas?
 
sublime_ing said:
The actuator arm is as far out as it will go, but just enough so that the flapper stays closed. WOT in 2nd gear it boosts 24+psi and I let off. Believe me I've tried everything. David is tryin to help as well. I dont have a MBC hooked up to it at all. I can hear the w/g open at about 10-12 psi, but the thing keeps building boost...and fast :D its just too much boost.


I am STILL having the exact same problem as you. In a way I am glad to hear that I am not the only one with this problem.

After looking at it for a while tonight and using compressed air to move the actuator, it seems that the angle of actuator arm is incorrect and is hitting against the flapper arm before it is fully extended. I had to rotate my compressor housing a little toward the front of the car so that my IC piping would clear the motor mount. That appears to be part of the problem. The actuator arm is now on more of a downward angle to the flapper arm. I saw some photos on Bullseye's site that the arm on the actuator had kinda an "S" bend. I think that might help so that it doesn't get the bind up issue.

I am really getting tired of messing with this internal gate. I am almost to the point of just saying "Screw it!" and buying an external wastegate. I know that would solve the problem.

Kevin
 
khendriksma1 said:
I am STILL having the exact same problem as you. In a way I am glad to hear that I am not the only one with this problem.

After looking at it for a while tonight and using compressed air to move the actuator, it seems that the angle of actuator arm is incorrect and is hitting against the flapper arm before it is fully extended. I had to rotate my compressor housing a little toward the front of the car so that my IC piping would clear the motor mount. That appears to be part of the problem. The actuator arm is now on more of a downward angle to the flapper arm. I saw some photos on Bullseye's site that the arm on the actuator had kinda an "S" bend. I think that might help so that it doesn't get the bind up issue.

I am really getting tired of messing with this internal gate. I am almost to the point of just saying "Screw it!" and buying an external wastegate. I know that would solve the problem.

Kevin

Im about to that point as well. I've messed with the angle of the actuator arm multiple times. I even found that at certain angles it wouldnt even move. I just want this problem fixed but without having to spend more money on an external w/g.
 
i'm having that same problem with my arm getting in its own way and wont fully open, but that doesnt explain why i cant boost over 15 psi does it?
 
My weekend at the track...

DSM link reported 374hp 20psi/w some creep (flat tune) -18 across the board, no knock.
13.2 @ 110mph
2.2 60Ft <---- :mad:

We couldn't figure out how to disable the studder box, launches were crap and my stock clutch was slipping.

Everyone is saying the same thing, even manny. "There's more hp left in her!"

Good job everyone!
 
just_passed_you said:
My weekend at the track...

DSM link reported 374hp 20psi/w some creep (flat tune) -18 across the board, no knock.
13.2 @ 110mph
2.2 60Ft <---- :mad:

We couldn't figure out how to disable the studder box, launches were crap and my stock clutch was slipping.

Everyone is saying the same thing, even manny. "There's more hp left in her!"

Good job everyone!

What size injectors you running? How did you do with knock? Did you happen to log the airflow? I am just curious to see what others are doing with this turbo.
 
I had borrowed a friend's ECU/DSM Link etc, we made 2 passes and he managed to get me dialed in for a run down the track. I had 0.04 counts of knock, I was -18 across the board and I was still running WAY rich. I'm using FIC 650's. I don't know if he's still got a log or anything. The general consensis is that there is MUCH power to be gained with tuning and decent clutch. I still trapped @ 110 and my buddy with the EVO 16g was trapping 107 with a 12.5 1/4 et. So.. I'm not worried about taking someone from a roll. This turbo pulls through the RPM's. Noticed the 401 HP dyno shows how much the cams help. Instead of a big hiting turbo that drops, it pulls the whole way through. Did 130MPH WOT and it was STILL pushing me into the back of my seat. I've been impressed across the board. :thumb:
 
i'll be dynoying my car yet again once i get the tranny to shep to rebuild and install my comp 100's in the meantime, im hopin for high 300's
 
just_passed_you said:
I had borrowed a friend's ECU/DSM Link etc, we made 2 passes and he managed to get me dialed in for a run down the track. I had 0.04 counts of knock, I was -18 across the board and I was still running WAY rich. I'm using FIC 650's. I don't know if he's still got a log or anything. The general consensis is that there is MUCH power to be gained with tuning and decent clutch. I still trapped @ 110 and my buddy with the EVO 16g was trapping 107 with a 12.5 1/4 et. So.. I'm not worried about taking someone from a roll. This turbo pulls through the RPM's. Noticed the 401 HP dyno shows how much the cams help. Instead of a big hiting turbo that drops, it pulls the whole way through. Did 130MPH WOT and it was STILL pushing me into the back of my seat. I've been impressed across the board. :thumb:

By what RPM were you fully spooling to the 20psi mark? It seems that I am not getting full spool until about 4250rpms.
 
It's ready to rock around 3700 RPM. I've got it to creep though...
if I use just the actuator arm to set boost, and I extend the arm a bit,
I'll hold 15psi and then creep up to 20psi anyway. If I shorten the arm
for 20psi, it will hit and stay at 20psi without the creep, and I'm sure with
an o2 dump and external wastegate I'd hit it sooner. My mods are in my profile.
I'm using the stock cams... maybe your combo is killer for the top end but
hurting you down low? I don't know enough about cams etc, just a guess.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted WTB 2g half rad
    ISO of a 2g koyo half rad or something equivalent.
    • Michael Wucher
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Coilover Springs
    Used pair of Eibach coilover springs from an old set of Ground Control coilovers. 2.5" inner...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 Mitsubishi logo early valve cover
    Early Mitsubishi logo valvecover. “1990” All threaded holes are good. Has the 90 style vent...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top