Swapping head & peripherals - What do I need to replace?

[turtlebain]

I want to swap the head off my blown motor , checking tolerances & warping first. I will replace if necessary.

I have a new JAM Stage 2 built 2.1L motor. I wanted to swap over all the peripherals from my old motor what do I need to replace? Just off the top of my head I can think of:

Oil pan gasket
Oil strainer gasket

But surely there are others.

Other things:
91 or 92 factory service manual for a 1G, correct?
Which engine assembly lube is recommended?
Where to use loctite / which kind?
Where to use RTV / Which kind?

 

[TylerLorenz]

When assembling an engine I typically put it together with Assembly Lube or if you don't have it readily available, use SAE30w. Something thick enough to lubricate until oil actually starts flowing.

Loctite Red, use wherever you DON'T want bolts backing out. Like Tensioner bolts, Crank Bolt, Flywheel bolts.

Ultra Grey or equivalent.

 

[BogusSVO]

You have a JAM short block, and a dirty head from a blown engine.

I will suggest the head be torn apart and fully cleaned and gone through so some random metal flake from the blown engine will not work its way into the new engine.

Clean the IM, VC and oil pan and pick up screen.

You should not need assembly lube, you have an assembled short block.

You will need some random dots of RTV, most will be used to seal the oil pan, but a fair amount, not the whole tube will be needed.

 

[turtlebain]

You have a JAM short block, and a dirty head from a blown engine.

I will suggest the head be torn apart and fully cleaned and gone through so some random metal flake from the blown engine will not work its way into the new engine.

Clean the IM, VC and oil pan and pick up screen.

You should not need assembly lube, you have an assembled short block.

You will need some random dots of RTV, most will be used to seal the oil pan, but a fair amount, not the whole tube will be needed.

Uhh yeah, wasn't going to just slap it on there

I'll be taking it apart, checking surface for warping & other damage. Taking measurements with my caliper. Should I take lifters out & kerosene soak? or is that overkill? For the head mainly I was thinking carb cleaner & brush. I'm open to suggestions. If there's any good teardown & procedure links I can look at that would be appreciated too. Any other gaskets I need or bolts / things I should be replacing? Should I get a new strainer just for peace of mind? They're not that much.

Thanks guys for the response. I want it to be done right & its my 1st build.

 

[BogusSVO]

Read the first part, it will help with the tear down.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/420045-how-have-4g63-head-rebuilt.html

Next, read all the info about heads, and springs.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/450429-bogussvo-how-links-other-info.html

That should cover most of what you will want to know.

Look up Jafromobile on youtube, he has a good vid on cleaning the HLAs
And a few on head tear down and building. I do agree with most all of what he says in the vids, for the few I have watched.

For the oil pick up, replace if damaged, or clogged.

 

[turtlebain]

Read the first part, it will help with the tear down.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cylinder-head-short-block/420045-how-have-4g63-head-rebuilt.html

Next, read all the info about heads, and springs.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/450429-bogussvo-how-links-other-info.html

That should cover most of what you will want to know.

Look up Jafromobile on youtube, he has a good vid on cleaning the HLAs
And a few on head tear down and building. I do agree with most all of what he says in the vids, for the few I have watched.

For the oil pick up, replace if damaged, or clogged.

Yup, I know of Jafro, it's why I have bought feeler gauges, & why I am constantly cleaning with carb cleaner.

91 or 92 factory service manual for a 1G, correct? Is there any difference? Is one better or more updated? Is Chilton / Haynes manual sufficient?

Thanks for the links.

 

[Matticus]

If I were you, I'd spend a little money on some head studs and an OEM METAL head gasket.

any time I yank a head, I chase the i/m and e/m bolt holes/studs to make sure they are clean. I do the same thing with head bolt holes too ... just a little lesson I learned a long time ago.

 

[turtlebain]

If I were you, I'd spend a little money on some head studs and an OEM METAL head gasket.

any time I yank a head, I chase the i/m and e/m bolt holes/studs to make sure they are clean. I do the same thing with head bolt holes too ... just a little lesson I learned a long time ago.

So would I, I have ARP head studs & Cometic MLS head gasket.

Just to clarify, by 'chase' you mean to run a thread tap through them? Thanks.

 

[Matticus]

So would I, I have ARP head studs & Cometic MLS head gasket.

Just to clarify, by 'chase' you mean to run a thread tap through them? Thanks.

Yes. It may seem like normal practice to some ... but, many people don't do it. I've broken way too many things and hate having to fix what can be prevented.

 

[turtlebain]

Yes. It may seem like normal practice to some ... but, many people don't do it. I've broken way too many things and hate having to fix what can be prevented.

Just out of curiosity, I was going re-tap the bolts where the engine stand mounts up to the block and it seemed VERY tight. I didn't force it, but tried an M10 x 1.25 bolt instead - it fit fine. How tight are these supposed to be? Felt like I was going to break something. Yes, I'm sure it was the correct thread - it said M10 x 1.25 right on it, but it was a cheap tap & die set from pep boys.

 

[BogusSVO]

Do NOT use a tap, you can weaken the threads. Use a thread chaser or make one.