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Stupid PCV question

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FORMONTOYA

DSM Wiseman
2,259
59
Oct 7, 2004
Houston, Texas
I've gone through 2 OEM PCV (read boost leak) valves in 1500 miles since the car came off jack stands December 05. I'm tired of buying and replacing them even though they are not that expensive. I was going to pull the nipple out of the intake and put a 1/8 BSPT plug in that location and use the nipple from the intake and replace the PCV valve, however, the nipple is a press-in fit so that's out of the question. I just capped off the nipple and used the PCV valve as my nipple to "T" into the vent line going to the intake before a G-2 gas filter (catch can).

My question is why do I have to hog out the PCV valve internals? There shouldn't be a differential pressure type of thing going on, therefore the PCV valve should remain open, shouldn't it?

Below is a half-a$$ drawing of what I propose and if someone can give me a legitimate reason why it should be hogged out, I'll just order a nipple for it.
 

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I'm gonna fab up some new aluminum catch cans to fit my cramped bay... any thoughts on how the nipple locations (both in and out) would affect the flow of gas/oil and how the oil settles out of the gases?

Wonder if it would be better to force the mix in at the bottom and out at the top, top to bottom, or in some side arrangement?
 
are you talking about the glass air compressor ones? Or do they have metal cans?

That would definitely be better, but figured they only had the small glass ones that would fill up in my car in about 10 miles of driving :)
I have had the small glass ones on both cars and I have not empty them in 6 months.
 
Yea, as far as I know they only come in one size. Also, I'm not sure about Oldman, but I think it's best to leave the 'filter' portion intack. There's threads out there stating that you should remove this piece, but I only see that as taking away from the benefit of using it to begin with.
 
Just dropped by Home Depot and they had two sizes... one is a small all-glass one, about 1 in. dia by maybe 4 inches long, 1/4 npt fittings. The other is metal or black plastic with glass site "windows", about 1.75 in. dia and maybe 6-7 inches long, with 3/8 npt fittings.

One is called an "air filter" ... the other a "mini air filter".

EDIT:

The bowls in both are actually plastic
 
Do you need help deciding which color underware for tomorrow as well? :p

I like the newer and slightly larger one because it has a drain valve on the bottom, I actually have both, I wouldn't call it large vs mini, more like mini vs ultra mini. :D
 
Well I can use the help if you wouldn't mind...
Free balling FTW.

Old one the right. If there is a bigger one, I'm there. :D
 

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Here's a suggestion for those of you more motivated than I: Put together about 5 options for *valid* DSM breather/PCV systems (with catch can, without, with nice check valve, with cheap-o, etc.) and start selling the kits on e-bay. Sending me a few bucks in proceeds would be appreciated ;).
 
Here ya go...

Small - HDA70403AV
150 PSI Max
64 SCFM max flow @ 90PSI

Large - HDA70603AV
150 PSI Max
106 SCFM max flow @ 90PSI

I think these cheap little drain cocks have to go...and they are befuddling me anyway... can't get them to close. And if they are pressure sensitive, I don't see how they would stay closed in our application.
 

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Ok, let me present my problem again. Why is it that I had everything setup the "correct OEM" way and I smoked like crazy on idle and even more-so on boost; but when I vent both nipples (stock breather port and straight thru PCV) and VTA with a filter breather on both ends, I don't get any smoke ? To take it even FURTHER, I too, drilled and tapped an extra fitting on there. So I had a total of two breather fittings to my catch can and the brand new oem pcv hooked up to a vac source. still, lots of smoking.

What would cause my engine to have excess crank case pressure during "oem" operation?

p.s., 155 compression across with no hint of rings not sealing.
 
I think these cheap little drain cocks have to go...and they are befuddling me anyway... can't get them to close. And if they are pressure sensitive, I don't see how they would stay closed in our application.
Mine closes just fine. :confused: Open the canister and blow into it. Furthermore, if it's setup properly, neither can should see positive pressure, just some vacuum

lil Tom said:
Ok, let me present my problem again. Why is it that I had everything setup the "correct OEM" way and I smoked like crazy on idle and even more-so on boost; but when I vent both nipples (stock breather port and straight thru PCV) and VTA with a filter breather on both ends, I don't get any smoke ? To take it even FURTHER, I too, drilled and tapped an extra fitting on there. So I had a total of two breather fittings to my catch can and the brand new oem pcv hooked up to a vac source. still, lots of smoking.

What would cause my engine to have excess crank case pressure during "oem" operation?

p.s., 155 compression across with no hint of rings not sealing.
I don't know, you should come by on Sunday so we can check it out.......mmmmkay.
 
I don't know, you should come by on Sunday so we can check it out.......mmmmkay.

Bruce, when are you gonna come by here and help me sort out my little remaining issues?

LOL

I did open it up and blow into it... no matter where the drain is turned to, air is blowing out of it like it's not even there. Does it on both cans too.
 
I did open it up and blow into it... no matter where the drain is turned to, air is blowing out of it like it's not even there. Does it on both cans too.
I just did it again and it worked, you must be a better blower than I. :D

Bruce, when are you gonna come by here and help me sort out my little remaining issues?
"Little remaining issues" ........ sorry can't help you there. :p
 
If you want to do it the way shown on the pic below, the height of both weld bung fitting and the 90 degree barb fitting MUST be BELOW 35mm.

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