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Stock or performance engine rebuild

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Isnt

Proven Member
39
0
Nov 11, 2013
San Diego, California
Blew my motor on my 93, was just gonna replace it, but when i pulled it found out previous owner had swapped it with a 6 bolt, meaning i want to rebuild it, but my question is, (im poor, i make maybe 350 a month) but it's a 6 bolt and I have to rebuild it.. I'm aiming for the 250-300 awhp mark, and mods like (16g turbo (already bought) headers, fmic, 15/16 psi? 2g maf with hard pipe intake, and an actually exhuast, 3" downpipe, already have bigger fuel pump. So my question is, do you guys think I should rebuild with maybe eagle rods and wiesco pistons or just stock? Or stock 1g roads with 2g pistons? firt time ever doing this so any advice :)
 
I guarantee he is running all Ebay parts that's why I said sell the ebay junk and get an Fp exhaust manifold instead of the stupid ebay headers, I have 2 sets of ebay headers and there both worse then stock, and cant be ported much.

the belt snapped. got it from autozone.
 
Okay. Pics of cyl walls and measurements in mm.

Measurements:

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84.30mm

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83.41mm

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83.78mm

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83.37mm

Cyl walls:

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Re did measurements, don't know if i did them wrong first time or second time, made a quick diagram in paint, Also did i number the cylinders right? forgot the firing order.

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That digital caliper isnt going to tell you squat. You need a dial bore gauge. Anyways judging from those pictures I would just run the motor. Take down the edges in the gouges and throw a new head on. I wouldnt waste money on rebuilding a motor with such low power expectations.
 
I agree ^^. Being that you're on a budget, find a rebuilt head or have yours rebuilt, get an OEM timing set and water pump, hg set, and either ARP studs or new OEM bolts, and put it back together.
 
I agree ^^. Being that you're on a budget, find a rebuilt head or have yours rebuilt, get an OEM timing set and water pump, hg set, and either ARP studs or new OEM bolts, and put it back together.

So you're all saying just smooth that piston out? And do a head rebuild?
 
I agree ^^. Being that you're on a budget, find a rebuilt head or have yours rebuilt, get an OEM timing set and water pump, hg set, and either ARP studs or new OEM bolts, and put it back together.

Do i have to even smooth it out? also what about the heat marks on the cyl wall
 
The measurements do not mean anything, you need a dial bore gauge or an inside mic.

Stock STD bore is 85mm

So right off the bat the 84.xx measurements you took are wrong.

Also that does not look like a factory crosshatch, more like a DIY hone job with a ball hone.

I would replace the first piston with the heavy gouges in it, this it not the typical bent valve gouges in the valve reliefs.

Those look like common wear/scuff on the cyl walls, a good chance they may hone out with a machinist hone.
 
Ok... To answer the question, for your goals and budget a stock "performance" build would do the trick. Take my advice and use preventative measures to reinforce that stock build... I.e., arp rod bolts, bigger injectors, ect. Because of OEM machining inconsistencys. Remember... Mitsubishi has budgets also!!!!
 
Anyone direct me to good rebuild kit? someone mentioned one on ebay about npr, whata bout this?

93 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse Laser Talon 2 0L Turbo DOHC Pistons Rings Set 4G63T | eBay

Its not that simple . Aside from a gasket set there really isnt a rebuild kit. You/your macinist need to determine if you can get away with using pistons that are the same bore size as the current bore. Then, obviously youll need to match the rings to the pistons. If youre going to go that far, might as well freshen the crank up and replace the bearings. etc....rebuild short block
 
Had the block dropped off at machine shop today, hes on vacation though, so ill know in about a week. I also need a new cliutch, should i go oem for my power goals? if oem, exedy ? or true oem or go for a satge 1
 
I'm sorry to hear about all the issues you've been having with your 1g.

For the amount of money/time spent on a brand new stage 1 clutch, for a small amount more you could get a stage 2 clutch, usually they are within close enough cost that it makes more sense to go stage 2 to begin with, also only use the oem nachi inner plastic throw out bearing, part number md722744 or rb-0402. the all metal ones will wear out the input shaft sleeve that it rides on, and cause lots of headaches.

also you can [if you want to] ditch the 8.5.1 compression 2g pistons, and use a Hyundai Elantra 1.6/1.8 43 cc compression head, with 1g turbo pistons to add up to around 8.3 to 1 compression, just thought i'd mention this, it is another way to add compression, but both ways will work.

Also if you intend to up the boost [in the future] you might want to consider getting the lc1 by innovate wide band o2 gauge, and dsmlink.
hope all goes well for your planned project.
 
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