Stock or performance engine rebuild

[Isnt]

Blew my motor on my 93, was just gonna replace it, but when i pulled it found out previous owner had swapped it with a 6 bolt, meaning i want to rebuild it, but my question is, (im poor, i make maybe 350 a month) but it's a 6 bolt and I have to rebuild it.. I'm aiming for the 250-300 awhp mark, and mods like (16g turbo (already bought) headers, fmic, 15/16 psi? 2g maf with hard pipe intake, and an actually exhuast, 3" downpipe, already have bigger fuel pump. So my question is, do you guys think I should rebuild with maybe eagle rods and wiesco pistons or just stock? Or stock 1g roads with 2g pistons? firt time ever doing this so any advice

 

[thirsty]

G'day,
I used Manley rods and Mahle pistons and cometic MLS head gasket when I rebuilt my rally engine. 175 KW at the wheels 325nm torque.
Try
realstreetperformance.com
Cheers
Ross

 

[dsmspick]

If 250 to 300 is your goal then a stock rebuild will be fine for that all day long.

 

[dsmaz]

you could go with 2g pistons they will raise your compression. But for the most part a completely OEM 4g63 block can handle around 500hp.

 

[1G Eclipse94928]

Blew my motor on my 93, was just gonna replace it, but when i pulled it found out previous owner had swapped it with a 6 bolt, meaning i want to rebuild it, but my question is, (im poor, i make maybe 350 a month) but it's a 6 bolt and I have to rebuild it.. I'm aiming for the 250-300 awhp mark, and mods like (16g turbo (already bought) headers, fmic, 15/16 psi? 2g maf with hard pipe intake, and an actually exhuast, 3" downpipe, already have bigger fuel pump. So my question is, do you guys think I should rebuild with maybe eagle rods and wiesco pistons or just stock? Or stock 1g roads with 2g pistons? firt time ever doing this so any advice

stock engine, you still dont have supporting mods so I would start off with gettng them. (ECMlink, injectors, fpr.) E: Im guessing you got ebay headers, sell them and get a FP or EVO3 exhaust Manifold.

 

[YUPOK]

If this is your DD then I would aim for a stock rebuild especially on your budget. However, if this is your fun car, although your budget is tight you have time on your side.

If DD then just get her back together using new parts and don't worry so much about HP goals. I would even look into selling all the mod parts you collected to fund the rebuild.

If a play car then I would start from the ground up. First make sure your car can handle the HP range your looking for. Make sure your tires, suspension and brakes are all in good working order. Nothing worse then blowing a brake line at 120mph with a brick wall coming at you fast. Then go for the bottom end, crank, rods, pistons BSE kit etc. there are all kinds of combos to get your goal. Then work on the head and finally intake and exhaust setup.

That should point you in the right direction.

Happy Spooling!!

 

[maximum9898]

If your on a budget I would keep it as stock as possible. Forged items add up real quick and can really break the bank. And don't forget that you have to have the block machined, decked, gaskets, seals, bearings ect. So I would go with a 1g rod 2g piston, they have been proven to make double your HP goals. But either way you go with you'll probably be happy with the outcome. Let us know what you decide, good luck with the build!

 

[Isnt]

it isnt my dd, but i do need it up asap, I have an apexi safcii and headers and fmic and a 16g turbo, im not selling those as i would have to buy them back later. Right now i got about 700$ to blow, im thinking Ill go with 1g rod and 2g piston, do i need to buy hybrid rods for those? also which is the best head gasket and rear main seal, and i guess im in need opf a new clutch as well

 

[lasthope05]

What blew in you motor dictates what you will need. You never told us what was wrong with engine. Off the top of my head what you would need is...

Topline gasket set , arps rod bolts, main/rod bearings, itm 2g pistons, machine work for rods (narrow small end, open wrist pin bore, recondition big end)

That doesn't tell us anything about the crank or cylinder bores.

 

[BogusSVO]

To install the 1g rods on the 2g pistons, you need to have the wrist pin hole enlarged to 22mm.

I honestly do not see the need on this with a stockish build with a smaller faster spooling turbo.

For a head gasket grab a felpro 9627pt composite and some STD ARP head studs and go on.

 

[Isnt]

What blew in you motor dictates what you will need. You never told us what was wrong with engine. Off the top of my head what you would need is...

Topline gasket set , arps rod bolts, main/rod bearings, itm 2g pistons, machine work for rods (narrow small end, open wrist pin bore, recondition big end)

That doesn't tell us anything about the crank or cylinder bores.

piston 1 and 4 hit the valves, valves bent and those pistons had damage, the block looks fine and the cylinders still smooth and cross hatched, considering sleeving them

 

[lasthope05]

Post pictures up of the pistons. 99% of the time they are salvageable if they only kiss the valves. Dropping a valve is a different story. Peen the edges over and you should be good to go most of the time. If the bottem end checks out would just get a new head or rebuild your old one.

No point in wasting money if you don't have to.

 

[Isnt]

Post pictures up of the pistons. 99% of the time they are salvageable if they only kiss the valves. Dropping a valve is a different story. Peen the edges over and you should be good to go most of the time. If the bottem end checks out would just get a new head or rebuild your old one.

No point in wasting money if you don't have to.

Not home, but the valves didnt bend. they shattered. broke into like 3 peices ea and deep scoring in the piston heads

 

[89Patches]

If your on a tight budget. why not just buy another used 6 bolt that is known to be in good condition? It will hold up just fine for the goals you want.

Rebuilding costs add up quickly and can be time consuming.

Good luck with what ever you choose to do

 

[jonathanfl]

Imo if your going to rebuild anything always try to make sure your putting in better parts than you had before. even if you dont need them you know you have built a more reliable system.

 

[Cdc1221]

Don't burn your money on forged internals. Even if you could afford them, you might be stuck for a while with nice pretty pistons on a shelf. Remember, you still need gaskets, seals, bearings, a new timing set, water pump, etc. Those alone will cost close to what the forged internals will if you use quality oem. Find a good used engine. They can be bought for $200-$1000 depending.

 

[maximum9898]

To install the 1g rods on the 2g pistons, you need to have the wrist pin hole enlarged to 22mm.

I honestly do not see the need on this with a stockish build with a smaller faster spooling turbo.

For a head gasket grab a felpro 9627pt composite and some STD ARP head studs and go on.

Very good point I had forgot to mention that as-well. But I do believe that on a couple of the vender websites you can buy the combo pre-assembled. Then there is no need to have it enlarged to a bigger bore! And why not if your going to do the rebuild anyway. But going with what has been said by other people if the bottom end checks out just get a new head. When I had read it the first time it sounded like the motor was non salvageable.

 

[BogusSVO]

piston 1 and 4 hit the valves, valves bent and those pistons had damage, the block looks fine and the cylinders still smooth and cross hatched, considering sleeving them

Why do you want to sleeve the block if the cylinders are as good as you say?

With as tight as your budget is, you may want to look for some stock pull out rods and pistons in the classifieds.

get some rings, bearings, gaskets and new timing set up, and a good head.

A basic rebuilt head from most vendors will run $400-500

 

[LandSpeed-DSM]

<-- 1G rods and pistons here, same shortblock since 2008.

 

[Isnt]

I have a new timing kit, it was on the car for about 400 miles before it skipped, the belt was junk however, so just got with 1g rods, 1g pistons? would you like pic of cyl walls? I could measure them with a michrometer

 

[Cdc1221]

Assuming yours are bad, you need 6 bolt rods. 7 bolts are narrower at the big end, which will allow the rod to walk along the crank pin. And to use a 2g piston on a 6 bolt rod, it'll require at least $200 in machine work to bore the wrist pin holes out. NPR pistons new are $100.

 

[lasthope05]

Assuming yours are bad, you need 6 bolt rods. 7 bolts are narrower at the big end, which will allow the rod to walk along the crank pin. And to use a 2g piston on a 6 bolt rod, it'll require at least $200 in machine work to bore the wrist pin holes out. NPR pistons new are $100.

Thats what they charge down in your area? What a rip off. I get them done for around $80 a set.

 

[TsiTuner]

For those horsepower goals a stock rebuild will be all you need.

 

[BogusSVO]

What brand of timing belt kit did you install that failed in 400 miles? What caused the belt to fail?

Some pics of the cylinder walls and the carnage woild be helpful.

Mic the bores and see what you come up with.

 

[1G Eclipse94928]

What brand of timing belt kit did you install that failed in 400 miles? What caused the belt to fail?

Some pics of the cylinder walls and the carnage woild be helpful.

Mic the bores and see what you come up with.

I guarantee he is running all Ebay parts that's why I said sell the ebay junk and get an Fp exhaust manifold instead of the stupid ebay headers, I have 2 sets of ebay headers and there both worse then stock, and cant be ported much.