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Stock Bottom End... FP Turbo... Would Like to Hit 400whp!!

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BOOSTIN21

15+ Year Contributor
413
3
Sep 22, 2003
Cedarburg, Wisconsin
Ok I am in the process of doing my first real project, and its not even a real "build". My goal is 400whp and 11 second ET's. I will share the supporting mods.

Stock Fresh Rebuilt 6 bolt motor Stock bottom end
Stock 1g Head
FP2 Cams
Extrude Hone Intake Manifold
Bored 1g TB
Ported SBR Cast manifold
TURBO UNDECIDED!!!!!!!!!!!!!
PINAMOTORSPORTS 3" DP 4" DP Back Exhaust V-Band
TIAL 38mm Wastegate
850cc injectors
Supra TT Fuel Pump Rewired
Aeromotive AFPR
DSMLink
Garrett FMIC
TIAL BOV
GM Blowthrough Setup

Ok I have been wondering if an FP Red would be too much for my stock 6bolt or if an FP Green wouldnt be enough. Again I would like to see at least 400whp even 360-375 would be awesome. I was thinking about the GT3076R the guy who used to own my car ran this turbo and he highly recommended it. Also the o2 housing is made for a Mitsu 4 bolt turbine flange and i WONT change it. Would the GT3076 be a good turbo? I dont know specs like a/r values or trim sizes or wheel sizes on the FP Green or Red turbos. But i have always liked whats FP has done and i have read plenty of good feedback on the Green. Are my goals attainable? Will it take a good ass tune to get it there? The car will have no sound deadening material or A/C. No Crash Bumper in front and no back seats. So it will be lighter!!
Oh yeah the car is a 1990 GSX

Thanks to all who help!!
Cullen
 
one of our 20G FWD running 11.4 and now upgraded to T67 running 11.2 spinning the MT 24.5x8x15 from 2nd to 4th gear.... this is done on the normal grand prix track not a drag racing track.... we don't have any drag racing track yet.

The owner running stock long block with 272 cam and EMS.
 
WOW!! is he running a tdo5 or a tdo5 20g?

also CanadianTSi, would the FP Red be too much abuse for the stock bottom end? and if i were to use the Green will i be pushing its limits or would i have room to play with?

thanks for all the good info guys
:thumb:
 
I'm running T4 converted SCM6152e boosting at 2bar and another 3 car running t67 boosting at 2 bar, all running with stock 6bolt long block with HKS/comp cam and ARP head stud....we never have an engine piston or rod failure even we are running with pump gas.. my car and one of the t67 ar .82 is a daily drive.
 
i'd personally go with the fp3052...expensive, but fp is proven, its bb and a great turbo...plus i'd like you to repost afterwards and state what boost made what hp...i thought about getting this turbo for the 7 bolt and have the turbo i'll ever need...
 
Any bolt on 50 trim (or bigger) will get you there. I did it with a stock 2g head/tb and hks 264/272 with a scm6152e, but it took a good amount of boost on c16 (27-28). It was in the upper 90s though.
 
awesome feedback guys.

my initial turbo setup was a 3052 but the o2 housign that is coming on the car is sexy and very well built so i plan on keeping it, it has the 4bolt mitsu flange to bol tup to a mitsu turbine housing. and i know the 3052's are v-band so then i went for a 3076R. and i just lost interest, i heard nothing but great things about them but like it has been said before Forced Performance has the goods. I always wanted a Green and i think that is what i will purchase.

When the car is ready in spring i will repost, about how it was broken in on the dyno and i will post links and pics of everything i possibly can.

thanks a ton everyone!! if i knew how to give REPUTATION points i would give one to all of you. WORD
 
im lookin at a fp 3052 and and fpgreen as well. I know the flow ratings are not far off between the two. 52 and 48 respectively. BUT what are the spool times like for these turbos. The 3052 spools around 38 to 4000rpm but i have never heard anything about the spool on the fpgreen. If an fp green will put me into the 400whp with pumpgas and meth injection and the spool is not bad then that would be the much cheaper way to go....hope this helps the original poster as well.

thanks guys
smokin
 
evil_eagle (Jake Montgomery) is selling his 9 second Ball bearing turbonetics T4 T76 93lb/min turbo for $850.00.. Turbo only has 3 passes on it and maybe 400 miles.. $1750.00 brand new. That should get you somewhere close to 400whp. :)
 
yeah i think thats a bit overkill... LOL


smokin80-- i searched for spool up on a Green, it hits full boost on a stock bottom end at about 3700-3800. which is pretty good.

and the Red as I found out via Greengoblin's link. the Red is a 60-1 which isnt as big as i thought i was. it flows at 60lb/min, following up on some more research there isnt a bit of info on the Red here on Tuners. Not too many people have them. why is that? this raises a bit of concern for me as to why no one is buying a red but it screams originality, which is good.

so... is a 60-1 too big? will i be able to see over 20 psi on an almost regular basis?
 
I personally owned a green and it will definitely take you to where you wanna be. I did 11.7 @27 psi. A friend had a red at 22 psi and ran 12.1 on a 2G with 18" rims. The stock bottom end is good for 98% of us, seeing as it will hold up to about 32psi. I've had the same bottom end for around 5 years now. Of course this is with a good tune.
 
other mods and what did you use to tune

nice to see a local reply
 
Me, I personally would recommend the FP3065 over all the turbo mention above. You're already looking for 400 already. By the time you get 400, you'll want 500 because 400 will feel slow. So why not go with something you have more room to work with. I have this turbo in my car and I drive it everyday. Still on stock longblock minus the cams. Best turbo bought to date.
 
What you don't realise is yeah a stock block in good condition will take 500hp(6bolt that is) and keep ticking you have to have a dam near perfect tune because with that kinda power and no forged internals you are playing with fire. Now don't get me wrong I too am a stock block beast as I run a gt14 with stock bottom end with just arp studs and MLS hg aiming for 500whp but I have invested in everything that makes life for the engine both easier and safer. I run dsmlink for tuning and I"m picking up a wideband as soon as I can because like most guys running stock blocks I"m trying to make everyday big power on pump gas so the tune has to be even more perfect. Now I don't plan on makin 500whp everyday on pump gas but I want the ability to crank up boost drop in c116 or water injection and just destroy the rich guy in the vette who thinks he's bad ass. The point is you can't just buy a big turbo even evil eagle size turbo slap it on and go ok now let make 400whp. That's why you see guys with a such diffrent sized turbos makin the same power. You can make 400whp on a 16g with race gas and you can make it gt35r with pump. It is "possible" to make 500whp with a t3 50 trim on race gas and very "possible" to mkae 400whp on pump gas with the same turbo. With that said forget the huge tubros like fp3065 and t67 and what not pick up a good 50 trim get real good with that dsmlink or get someone who is and have a fun car that will give you room to grow:thumb:
 
BOOSTIN21 said:
other mods and what did you use to tune

nice to see a local reply
Well, you know, the typical supporting mods like FMIC, fuel mods, studs, MML HG, AFC II, wideband, etc...
I have no doubt at all in my tuning and I'm pretty sure it was near perfect for what an AFC II can do (well, to my standards that is). Both the guys that replied before me are both right. You will want more as I did too. 3065 is a great turbo. T76 is definitely not streetable...even with anit-lag. Believe me, you wouldn't want to drive it to work/school everday. As for the bottom end...it is very capable of 600WHP. As mentioned, you will need a near perfect tune with something better than an AFC, also, at that point, race gas is a must. BTW, I don't consider a 3065 a "big" turbo at all as it is very very streetable. Something big would have to be at least a T70 but there are ways around certain turbos to make them streetable. :thumb:
 
v2ner said:
Well, you know, the typical supporting mods like FMIC, fuel mods, studs, MML HG, AFC II, wideband, etc...
I have no doubt at all in my tuning and I'm pretty sure it was near perfect for what an AFC II can do (well, to my standards that is). Both the guys that replied before me are both right. You will want more as I did too. 3065 is a great turbo. T76 is definitely not streetable...even with anit-lag. Believe me, you wouldn't want to drive it to work/school everday. As for the bottom end...it is very capable of 600WHP. As mentioned, you will need a near perfect tune with something better than an AFC, also, at that point, race gas is a must. BTW, I don't consider a 3065 a "big" turbo at all as it is very very streetable. Something big would have to be at least a T70 but there are ways around certain turbos to make them streetable. :thumb:


I hope you mean 500whp cause I have NEVER heard of someon emakin 600whp on a stokc bottom end even with arp studs and MLS HG on a 6bolt.OMG
 
ok i am well aware that throwing a big turbo on a car isnt going to net me the 400whp i am looking for. i have been in the DSM game for a few years and have done my fair share of research. I would like room to grow and right now i am leaning towards the FP Red, and for those who didnt read my initial post it states the o2 housing is made for a Mitsu 4 bolt turbine flange and i WONT change it. so no a 3052 wont work and no a 3065 wont work for me.
I understand that a GREAT tune is what i need to hit my goals that is why i am getting DSMLink and am having it professionally tuned at Buschur or AMS. I might be able to do it myself but the motor is being broken in on the dyno the way it should be. I know of people who have had their cars tuned by both AMS and Buschur.
I think my goals will also be more attainable at the wight the car will be at. I am shooting for 2800 with driver and full tank.

thank you for all the help
cullen
 
BOOSTIN21 said:
ok i am well aware that throwing a big turbo on a car isnt going to net me the 400whp i am looking for. i have been in the DSM game for a few years and have done my fair share of research. I would like room to grow and right now i am leaning towards the FP Red, and for those who didnt read my initial post it states the o2 housing is made for a Mitsu 4 bolt turbine flange and i WONT change it. so no a 3052 wont work and no a 3065 wont work for me.
I understand that a GREAT tune is what i need to hit my goals that is why i am getting DSMLink and am having it professionally tuned at Buschur or AMS. I might be able to do it myself but the motor is being broken in on the dyno the way it should be. I know of people who have had their cars tuned by both AMS and Buschur.
I think my goals will also be more attainable at the wight the car will be at. I am shooting for 2800 with driver and full tank.

thank you for all the help
cullen

`You asked in your first post "Will it take a great tune to get there" That's why I brought up tuning. If you already knew you did not make that clear. You have the knowledge and the professional help and we already established that the green can make 500whp on race gas so why is room to grow even still being thrown out as a reason to negate the green over getting the red. You want to go 11's and make 400whp the green will do it later you want to make 45-whp and dip into the low 11's with weight reduction the green will do it. The only thing that would make me chose the red over the green is if the car was mainly a weekend warrior that would see a lot of race gas as the 60-1 wheel is a race gas wheel and not great on pump gas but is a moster on race gas. The green is the opposite a beast on pump and still great on race just the diffrence between a really good race gas tune and a pmp gas tune with a green isn't going to be as significant as with the red.
 
Are you strictly looking to run an FP turbo? I have pretty much all the same support mods you do only I'm running a pte gt30r. At 19psi, 94 pump, and a bad clutch the car made 370awhp and I ran a 12.0 @ 117. A green could get you 400whp and an 11 second slip, a red might be a little much and like slippi said its going to perform better on race gas, and the major deciding factor is going to be the tuning.
 
Isn't their a video out of a guy with a 2G with 400WHP all bolt ons and blows his crank on the dyno???
 
cb3016 said:
Isn't their a video out of a guy with a 2G with 400WHP all bolt ons and blows his crank on the dyno???

Yeah andrew's red 2g but that's a 7 bolt 6bolts take more power before poping which is what he has.


edit: that was 455whp to but he had fuel or some other porblem happen while on the dyno more proof that you have to be perfect when messing around iwth that kinda power on stock stuff. A forged engine might still have poped but the chance of it happening would have significantly been reduced.
 
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