ECMlink Starting to tune pointers needed

[PrimerPLus]

Hey all I am ready to turn up the boost. So I will post my idle log and just want to be sure it looks good before I go do 3rd gear pull etc.

A question I have is do I need to try and tune with stock psi at WOT before I turn up the boost? or do I just turn it up and then do 3rd gear pull and tune from that.

The first log is my idle.

1)No leaks, accept at the external wastegate that Tial says is supposed to be that way.
2)Timing is spot on.
3)base timing is on
4)NGK plugs gapped to .028, NGK wires as well
5)Compression shows 165 across the board
6) I followed the ecmlink and some youtube videos to change tps, throttle etc..
7)I was using 43.5psi base fuel pressure JUST upped it to 48psi to have lower injector duty. I am using 680cc injectors.
8)Stock compression.
9)Wires are healthy I have fixed and reloomed them and front o2 sensor is new.
10) I calibared my AEM Uego via youtube videos.
11) Fuel type 90 octane.
12) I watched the ecmlink vidoes
13)Wideband is in rear o2
14) Brand new alternator, battery volts are well within spec.

 

[PrimerPLus]

OK just did a 3rd gear pull x2

I put in the evo8 fuel mod1

Could really use some input. Trying to tune for 20psi or so. I set my MBC to 20 using a compressor and basically doing a BLT and watching my AEM boost gauge to 20psi.

I have only 90 octane available to me so if I must go lower psi that is fine, I will be getting a water/meth injector in the future but not right now.

 

[gofer]

Got your PM, however, I'm at work and for some reason Intel doesn't let us install ECMLink software onto the computers. Posting this so I remember to comeback to it later today and look at your logs but, in the mean time, I'll answer a few questions you have...

Idle to WOT tuning is great, however, if you DD your car 99.9% of the time you'll be driving at cruising speeds and in closed loop. Everyone wants to dive into WOT but tuning your closed loop FT's is important too, considering the majority of the time that's where the ECU will be when driving around. That being said, lets take a step back here and go do a good 15 min. cruise log following this video. ECMLink: Initial Setup
(You'll have to watch it to the end to catch the OLThreshold settings before you capture a cruise log)

As far as your WOT tuning goes. I'm a firm believer in running the lowest boost possible to start tuning, which is wastegate pressure, and make sure AFR's are exactly where they need to be and timing advance isn't crazy either. Once I feel comfortable running wastegate pressure then turn it up and, in your case, 20psi is still conservative with those ARP headstuds you've got holding the head down (assuming you aren't limited by octane which you shouldn't be just yet).

Since you've already done a 20psi WOT 3rd gear pull we can skip doing a pull at wastegate pressure, I'll look at it and make changes (if needed) and then have you turn the boost up to 23psi if you feel comfortable there?

To give you some assurance here, 11mm (7-bolt) ARP headstuds can hold about 55lbs/min which is way more than a 16g can flow.

Do a cruise log (use that video) ASAP and I'll look at your idle and WOT logs tonight.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Awesome I'll be sure to do a cruise log after my class. Also I was reading and I think my global fuel is wrong. It's at -34% but I used the calculator in link, on the ECM wiki is says it should be at -29%. So I'll change that.

So changed my global and did a cruise here is my new idle log.

 

[gofer]

90oct huh? You need to call your Senator and complain, that's terrible!

You're definitely getting knock and since you aren't logging a MAP sensor (actual boost) you'll want to watch your boost gauge between 5.5k and 6k so you can calibrate your airflow properly. JeffGST Airflow Calibration

Is your WB logging accurately in Link, i.e., does a 11:1 AFR in the log show up on the gauge as an 11:1 too?

If AFR's being logged match the gauge (I assumed they did when making these setting changes) upload these tunes to your config and DA and do another WOT pull and turn the boost down a few clicks. After seeing that "pull 2" log I'd like to make that knock disappear before you turn it up to 20+, try to keep it at 17psi or so...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Uploading these will get rid of your CEL too and you didn't have the "use non '95/'96 CAS" box checked so I did that for you too.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Yah I know Alaska dang it .

The wideband being logged matches what my gauge says. I will load these and do a 3rd gear pull and post back thank you sooo much for taking the time to help me!

 

[gofer]

Don't forget to dial the boost back down to 17-18psi and check your boost pressure from 5.5k to 6k during the pull!

I enjoy helping where I can, no thanks needed. You've just got to promise to make it to the track and see what you trap, seems everyone I help never makes it to the track and parts their car.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Haha no worries there! I don't plan on parting out or selling my car, unless I happen to get a Nissan Skyline GTR 34

 

[gofer]

Well, considering my track record with things, odds are a R34 will fall into your lap as soon as your tune looks good.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Ok swapped in both the new files and here are my pulls.

Also watched my boost gauge said 18psi then it jumped to 21-22 just before redline and stayed until I left off the gas.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Ok 38mm external wastegate installed. Using .9bar springs (Green and black)

Using the evo mod1 fuel tables from ecmlink website. Holding steady at 17-18 psi just until redline which I hit 21 psi and felt a thunk maybe a boost leak although I don't know why because I did a BLT to 25psi with no leaks accept at the wastegate - well i lie there was air escaping from the valve cover return line but haven't figured that one out yet either.

 

[gofer]

Is this with a boost controller installed or just a line going from the IC pipe to the side port of the wastegate? Or, a better question, where is the boost source going to the side port of the wastegate?

Here.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[PrimerPLus]

That is just boost source (j-pipe) to bottom air port on the wastegate.

I can post a pic if needed.

 

[gofer]

Good to go, no picture necessary. Things look good, just load the tune I attached above, install the boost controller, and turn the boost up to 22psi and do another 3rd gear pull.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Here is the new log with boost reading at the gauge 22-23psi

 

[gofer]

You still haven't hit the knock threshold of your motor running 90oct so I'd say turn it up to 25psi, about the limit running Link lite, and we'll give it a final look over. You'll make more power increasing boost than advancing timing so, if we can get you to 25psi, we'll keep timing where it's at.

Here's the new tune.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[PrimerPLus]

Nice you are the man

I will be uploading new tune to my car and getting a new log

I just wanted to mention and I don't know if you noticed but my car idles a little lean around 15.2-15.7 idk if thats ok or not but was wanting to mention it.
Also in between shifts such as 2-3 or 3-4 it will go lean so say im cruising (it seems good at cruise like 14.5-15.0 usually) and shift it will go really like like 16-17 and then back to the 14.7 range, same thing if im boosting and shift from 2-3 or 3-4 and im at 11.0 or whatever it seems to go lean but not as far as the 17 usually around maybe 15 or most 16 but then back to the richness.

So I was just wanting to toss that in idk if that's normal or not but when it gets lean you can feel it in the power loss.

 

[gofer]

Leaning out between shifts is normal, you just aren't shifting fast enough.

Have you checked for exhaust leaks before the wideband sensor?

 

[PrimerPLus]

I have not checked for exhaust leaks since I installed the new PR o2 housing. But I will be sure to do that. If there is one its got to be somewhere on the actual pipe because I know all my gaskets are new and bolts are new and tight. But I will check. Need to grab some seafoam.

 

[gofer]

Exhaust leaks can typically be heard, sea foaming the car isn't necessary, I was just asking because the idle being a smidge lean. It won't hurt anything cycling around 15.4:1 at idle, I was just making sure you didn't have any audible exhaust leaks because that will cause WOT AFRs to show leaner than they really are too.

You can still sea foam your car if you'd like tho...

 

[PrimerPLus]

Here is new log with 25psi it seems to stay pretty solid there maybe 24 or 26 but pretty solid.

I wanted to mention that when I said I thought I was having a boost leak because I was feeling a slam. Well when I was driving before I made a log I was cruising and I was gradually gaining psi not flooring it but I got to 25psi and it was steady very smooth.
BUT when I made the logs, i just went from 2nd to 3rd WOT and it was smooth until just before red line and it felt like I hit a wall AND my computer stopped logging and I actually had to reconnect to the car each time. It's like I lost power so the computer stopped talking so IDK why it just stopped. The car didn't die, radio didn't go off nothing like that but my computer stopped talking to the car just before redline and I felt that wall slam.

So here are the 3 logs I made.

 

[gofer]

The "wall" you are describing sounds to me like fuel cut, however, your AFR's don't show anything close to that happening. In every log you've uploaded RPM's only make it to 6k and you're saying it's doing it at redline, if you'd like me to see what it's doing at redline you're going to have to take it to redline. From what I can tell though, your IDC's at 6k are right at 90% and climbing fairly fast so maybe you're running out of injector?

PLEASE watch your CEL when you're doing these pulls, I have it set for 2* of knock and in those logs you attached you were getting upwards of 4*. I don't want you to bend a rod or crack a piston so I know for sure that you're not trying to do that either, if you see the CEL flash get off the throttle.

That being said, I pulled some timing and moved some MAF sliders around to get fuel trims to line up with target AFR's. Upload them both and do a pull (watch the CEL) to 7k if you want to mimic the "fuel cut" wall you're describing. You've been doing great watching boost but, now that you've got it set and aren't changing it, don't worry about it watching it. AFR's staying around 10:1 and flashing CEL's are more important...

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Does the car feel like it's making good power since we've started tuning it or?

 

[PrimerPLus]

Heck yah, pulls like a beast . The reason that the logs only show to 6k ish is because thats when the computer had stopped logging or I felt the slam and let off. Yah I know the cel should come on but I think my dash doesn't work fully, no cels ever come on. The light SRS comes on right when you turn the key on but goes away after about 5secs after car is started.

I was looking at injector duty it's almost 90% so I am probably close to the limit .
My wideband and what I log in Link are pretty dead on. I had a friend reading the gauge as I watched the computer seemed to be pretty accurate.

 

[gofer]

When you turn the key to the "ON" position the CEL should illuminate for 5 seconds and extinguish, if not then likely the bulb was removed or it's burnt out.

For a 16g powered car on 90oct pump it looks like it's pulling hard, that's why I asked.

 

[PrimerPLus]

AH man I went and did another pull to see if I could log into 7k but the car just wont do it. Imagine driving over pot holes at 50mph, thats what this feels like

Is it possilbe my rev limit is keeping me from going past the 6k mark?
It kinda feels like my 2step but harder...
Also I watched for the CEL light nothing came on, but I did experience some knock still.