Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[92AWDHX40]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

rule out any of these things.

 

[Reedup6911]

awesome dam thats an awesome thread will use this for sure thx!!!

 

[jd21]

Ok still having the same problem i replaced the temp sensor and its still hard to start. When it does start it ides between 2000 and 2500 rpms if i adjust the biss it does nothing. I have i video if that helps at all thanks.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Terry's Talon Troubleshooting Tips #3 - Fast Idle (aka. Idle Surge)


Well if it idles like that read this thread.

 

[jd21]

ok thanks guys figured it out a wire for the coolant temp sensor was cut all good now

 

[TAL0NTSi]

Turns out the intake cam had been rubbing the cam journal enough to where it seized itself in the head. I pulled the cam caps off to find the cap closest the cam gear was all chewed up. I have a mechanical timing belt tensioner, so I'm think I had to much tension on the belt. I feel pretty stupid, but I guess you live and you learn. I've got a new head, and an excuse for some upgrades

 

[andrew4g63]

Anybody on this thread from ages ago fix there no injector pulse problems?

 

[Vancho]

Shoot, same problem here. I get spark, fuel to the rail and injectors 1 and 2, but not 3 and 4. Anyone that knows what the problem is please help us out thanks.

 

[English_Rugby]

I have a 1g DSM that needed to have all of the wiring harnesses replaced due to a bad short. The short led to the aftermarket alarm which had an immobilized built in. Before I changed all of the harnesses around, the car started fine although eh starter was starting to give out. When the harnesses was changed, the starter would no longer engage so I replaced it, but this did not solve the problem. So now i'm left with some unknown problem causing the starter not to engage, although the ECU and security click, and the ISC also makes noise. I have barely any electrical knowledge, and am a poor student so can't afford to take it to a garage to get it done professionally. So if anyone is in south west Michigan (St Joseph) and could help me for a modest amount/a crate of beer that'd be great.. I am just sick of driving an old ford truck around you know how it feels i'm sure!

Thanks in advance!

 

[awd_freakout253]

Did you ever figure out the problem, I'm getting ready to do 6bolt swap soon, let me know, I can use all the info I can get, thanks

 

[Silent_White]

surprised no one said it.. 1, do a boost leak test to see if you have any air leaks.
2, do you have a FIAV blockoff?
3, what brand are your 650cc injectors, what do you have the deadtime and global fuel set at?
4, what does the ics read in link?
5, please take a datalog in link and upload it along with a picture of the engine bay.
6, what is your fuel pressure reading?
7, check firing order.. its 4132

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

EDIT:: didn't realize the OP let this thread die a month ago...

 

[Rsawd95dsm]

check to verify you have power to the starter and also go back through and make sure all your ground straps are in place and that they are cleaned up and making a good secure connection. i would also pull the comp out and open it up to make sure nothing got melted or fryed.

 

[JuGs]

surprised no one said it.. 1, do a boost leak test to see if you have any air leaks.
2, do you have a FIAV blockoff?
3, what brand are your 650cc injectors, what do you have the deadtime and global fuel set at?
4, what does the ics read in link?
5, please take a datalog in link and upload it along with a picture of the engine bay.
6, what is your fuel pressure reading?
7, check firing order.. its 4132

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

EDIT:: didn't realize the OP let this thread die a month ago...

Little late of a response. no im completly stock atm fiav isnt blocked off(at least I never bloked it. stock injectors and fuel pressure. after replacing my maf and having the same issue it came down to narrowband simmulation was messing it up. so i just put a normal o2 sensor in and disalbled NB sim. cars runs now but has bad knock with light throtte, but a tune will solve that and hopefully it will go away and inporve my mpg

 

[Yelwarc-]

Ok so for starters, my car has been parked the last day or 2 and the weather went from -5 to -30 in that short time frame. Now when I go to start the car it will crank but will not start. On one try the car did start but it sounded rough, and rose from 1400rpm - 2200rpm before i released the clutch and when I released the clutch it held stuck, then suddenly drops and the car dies. I get it to restart making sure to hold the clutch in and ease it out slowly as it rose from 1400-3000, the car did not die from letting go of the clutch this time but I pulled the key out as it was sounding bad and to high of an idle for my liking. Car will not start now.

Now what im wondering if this is something to just expect because of an old car, no block heater and -30? Or could this be something worse?

 

[95_talon_fwd]

-30 is pretty cold. That and the age of these cars like you said could most likely be your problem. If the car won't start at all now I would say check the easiest stuff first like the battery/alternator etc. once you know that all of that stuff is ok then you can move on from there. It might just need a good warming up.

 

[dsmlover07]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[Abe'sGST]

like mentioned above, check the basics first...battery, plugs, wires, injectors, fpr and fuel pump and on from there, my bet is because of the cold weather, good luck

 

[Rockyp]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

This thread won't work for a no-start at -30. When you start your car at -30 it's going to idle really high. Mine typically idles at 2-2.3k at -25 and lower. My engine's tuned for the cold and -20 to -25 is around my peak for a cold start. DO NOT press your clutch in at -30 without warming the engine if you have a OEM line. The way the hard line screws into the Master cylinder causes that seal to blow. Nothing more fun than changing a clutch line at -30. If it gets that cold, have an arctic grade line made for your clutch, or buy a SS line. Search around this forum about disconnecting the clutch safety feature. Expect this in cold weather if you're not prepared. I moved form SC to Alaska 3 years ago and had to deal with the pains of -10 to -45 drops overnight.

 

[mnelsen]

what he said^do the easy crap first to save yourself some time. id check the starter first, then plugs

 

[Yelwarc-]

Shit well at this moment I have no garage and with the windchill its hitting lower then -35 so I cant go outside and tinker. It slowely rose from 1400- 3k and didnt look like it was stopping so i didnt want to take a chance. But the clutch sticking and then popping out, to turn the car off is the thing im confused about. Can mess around tomorrow and update you guys.

 

[Rockyp]

A nice trick I learned up here. Take a bag of charcoal and make a burn pit in something about 12-18in from your front bumper. After the coals are hot (no flames), place a tarp over your hood and the coals. It'll direct the heat from the coals into your engine bay. Should heat the bay to about 15-20 degrees. Then you can try to start it again. Just be careful not to catch the tarp on fire.

 

[Turbotsiawd]

Lol nice pice of info ^^^ +1 all day haha

You should invest in a block heater take it to mitsu
And have them do it cause it involves taking out freeze plugs
That have been on your car in the elements for 15+ years
Let it be there head ace... Normally as a dsm mechanic you learn to
Fix things as you go but I personally wouldn't mess with freeze plugs
Hope this helped.

 

[Rockyp]

It's not that hard to install a block heater on a 4g63. I've had to do it 3 times.

Remove the coolant.
Take off the intake manifold.
Grab a flat head driver and a hammer.
lightly tap the second freeze plug from the driver's side at the bottom where the block meets the plug. (Be careful not to chip your block)
The bottom will go in and the top will rotate out of the engine.
Just pull the top and the freeze plug out with pliers.
Install the block heater.
Put back together.

Place a heating pad with high temp RTV to the oil pan. (100W pad is what I use)

Place a 60W heating pad in the bottom of your battery tray.

Run all wires from their spot to a 3-way junction under the front bumper.

Never have a cold-start problem again.

 

[luv2rallye]

You didn't replace any harness with one from a 90 or 2g or automatic tranny did you?
Any other replacements you're not telling us?

 

[Infamous33]

The first test I would do requires only a simple test light. Connect the clamp to the neg side of the battery and touch the probe to the main power wire at the starter. If it lights, you have power to the starter.
Next, as long as there is power at the big wire to the starter, put the tester to the small single wire at the starter and have someone turn the key to crank. This will tell you if you are getting a signal from the starter relay down to the starter. If the test light illuminates on both of those tests, you need a starter, however, we will have to assume that one of those 2 tests will not pass.
If the main power wire does not have power at all times, retrace the wiring right from the battery to the starter and make sure all connections are tight. Can't remember which of the fuses at the battery are for the starter so make sure all 3 of the fuses right on the battery terminal are good.
If the signal wire is the one not getting power, things get alittle more difficult, as there are lots of places that need to be checked.
If the alarm has an immobilizer, there is a good chance that the wiring could be bypassed through it's control module. Did you remove the alarm and all the wiring? Did you replace the harness under the dash?
Report back and we can keep going with more tests until you find it!!