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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
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Theres a harness connector on the engine harness that connects the starter solenoid near the thermostat housing, maybe you forgot to connect that when you swapped the engine in. Other than that check your connections on the starter and make sure your terminals are tight on the battery.
 
I was going to say poor connection from your posts to your post leads. another thing I would do is check to make sure you have enough grounds. But if your blowing fuses see if you can isolate which way the short is the best way. I would find a mid point and split it. test to ground against the positive leads with the battery unhooked of coarse.
 
check where engine harness goes threw fire wall. Make sure there are no cut or hacked wires. You could have a positive wire grounding out on engine harness somewhere. Are you using a 1g cas? Do you have the power wire and the signal wire connected for starter?
 
I am not using a 1g cas. I'm just using the stock wiring harness from the 97 roller. The guy before me relocated his fuse box to under the passenger dash. All he did was cut every wire, and then put them back together with electrical tape. Also, when putting my starter on, I broke off one of the bolts. I tried putting in a screw and connecting it to the broken bolt. I'm guessing one of these two is my problem.
 
Check the firing order with your spark plugs. I had a no start on my '97 when I dropped an EEPROM ecru in there from a '95 for Link. Granted I still had lights and clicks and stuff. Check that though.

Other than that, the previous owner's wiring job could be a serious issue.
 
I would track down a new (used) harness and toss the hacked up one you currently have. It be a pain to swap it out, but I would bet much less than fixing your current harness.This would have been good information to include in your very first post.
 
The starter doesn't have a "negative" it is grounded by the contact to the block/transmission. You have an exciter wire and a battery + wire. Cant mess those up too bad. If you meant your battery connections on backwards. No, you would blow your main fuse first. You have a wiring issue if you are blowing the ignition fuse. If you do not have a good understanding of electrical, I am not sure how well you will be able to tackle this. There is a short somewhere in the circuit that the ignition fuse powers. Now, the ignition fuse provides power to the ignition switch. So there is a TON of components that are provided power by this. The list of possibilities is numerous and to be honest I am not sure on where to tell you to start. Let's do this, I will attach two photos they go side by side and show what is powered by the ignition switch which then goes down to smaller fuses that protect different circuits. Identify these fuses, pull ALL of them (while paying attention to where they go) replaced your 30 AMP fuse and put each fuse back it its respective spot until the 30 AMP fuse blows. Do this first with the key off and then do it with the key on. When you have identified what particular circuit is causing the failure. We can then push forward to narrow down the failure on that circuit.

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So I finally got it started! It was my first start up. I removed all the wires for the alarm system and reconnected the cut wires. Then I had the starter wired wrong. I thought the negative went on the negative terminal for the starter. Then i had the resistor pack for the injectors plugged into the wrong plug. Then found out my injectors were getting juice, but not squirting. So I put my friend's 850's in and it started.
I had my fic 1650's flow tested and they were fine. Maybe having the injector resistor pack plugged up wrong fried my 1650's. Who knows.
 
Thanks guys, good place for me to start hunting LOL.

I have not checked cas yet, wanted to make sure I had fuel before moving on to others!

To bring this back to life, resolved the no start issue..........when the previous owner installed the fuel filter, they didn't pull a plastic piece out of the end so it essentially had the equivalent to a cork in what would be the small end in the picture below LOL.

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New problem, car starts and idles.....but when you give it gas it wants to die out. Mass air flow is plugged in.....anything in this picture look wrong?(Besides the poor engine swap/wiring LOL)
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Car started and ran fine before it was shipped from Germany to the states. About three months later I get a call saying they can't start it and the battery is dead. Once I got the car back I saw one of the IC pipes had popped off so I think they may have been goofing off with my car at some point. Once the battery was recharged I still can't get it to start. The plugs are firing and all had proper gap, fuel pump is doing its job, fuel is draining through the return line although I didn't check the actual pressure, fuel injectors all read 2.3 ohms, the connectors all have 11v when ignition is at run and they drop down to about 8v when the car turns over. I checked to see if I can hear the clicking of the injectors as the engine turns over and I couldn't. Thought perhaps I didn't know what to listen for so I pulled the fuel rail and turned the engine over and the injectors don't appear to be working. I swapped out the EFI and Injector Resistor pack with known operating ones, checked pin #10 on the EFI connector and it reads 12v. Car still won't start. Every once in awhile it sounds like it might, but just doesn't. I have an AEM EMS, but it shouldn't lose the program from a dead battery so I'm at a loss. Any thoughts?
 
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