Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[wicked94z28]

When i crank the car over it squirts fuel fine... its actually drenching my plugs...and its a new k&n filter... but as fir the battery its a dead battery with a charger on it thats on boost,think that has domthing to do with it?

 

[B1ackout]

if it starts when its cold then runs bad when its hot its not the battery it would have to be a sensor or a seal bad somewhere, possibly valve seals because my 1g has the same problem

 

[wicked94z28]

I was thinking acsensor to but idk which one ...i dont think it would be valve seals because it ran fine in the car it was pulled from....

if it starts when its cold then runs bad when its hot its not the battery it would have to be a sensor or a seal bad somewhere, possibly valve seals because my 1g has the same problem

And it doesn't run bad when it warms up, it wont start at all when its warm...it don't really get "hot' because i don't let it run long enough due to not having the radiator hooked up

 

[reallyslowfwd]

coolant temp sensor? and cool a dsm'er close by

 

[wicked94z28]

I put a new coolant temp sensor on but there is no water flowing for it to get a reading
And ya i drive through shelby everyday

 

[reallyslowfwd]

well have no more ideas atm, but I'm the red 2ga spyder you might have seen running around Shelby

 

[99 E-klips gs]

got a 99 gs 420a. walked out to my car and started it, while i was walking away it died. turned around and tried to start and wouldn't. been down for 6 days and have to rely on others to get to work and such.
But anyways I started by trying to figure out if I am getting spark and fuel.
I was getting spark in cylinders 2 and 3 but not 1 and 4, testing via screwdriver and testlight. but when i tried again to see if the dead spark was continuous. but then 1 and 4 sparked. so I am getting spark sometimes and sometimes not. all fuel injectors are getting fuel to them and are shooting (Tested pigtail).
I checked compression and i am getting 100-90-80-100.. pretty low I know.
but first I wanted to check the spark issue, I changed the ASD relay, CPS, CAS, and coilpack(3 times).. didnt fix it. switched out a working ECU and still didnt fix it. bought a new battery, because i knew it was bad and figured it was sending wrong voltage to the ecu, but that didnt fix it either.
I am getting a signal to each of those sensors and the coilpack.
getting 12 volts to coilpack, but not for sure what I am suppose to get elsewhere.
I wanted to check timing, because can leave to a bad spark and bad compression, but I am new to timing and not fully for sure how to test. I lined up the 2 marks on the cam gears, turned the crank twice, and it lined up exactly in same place.
Decided to take off the valvecover and check to see if I can see any problems with cam, and the only thing I seen was that everything under the valvecover seemed a little dry, there wasnt too much oil. so I tried my electric start while i was watching under the valve cover. No oil pushed out, (Does that mean a bad oil pump?) or should it not push anything out without fully running?
I then drained the oil to see if there was any metal shavings or anything in it. ran a magnet through it, nothing.

Could someone please help me? I am at a complete loss

 

[wicked94z28]

I went out to start it and now it wont even start.....any ideas?

 

[Brian O Conner]

Have you checked your grounds. Mopars love grounds

Just wondering to how many miles are on your engine. Your saying your having compression problems maybe you need to replace your piston rings.

 

[Eagle96TalonTSi]

I dont think 80-100 is bad compression when the engine is not running.

 

[Calan]

I checked compression and i am getting 100-90-80-100.. pretty low I know.

Your compression should be around 170 or higher, and I believe the service limit is 100... in which case your compression is well, horrible. But, it would be pretty unlikely that your compression would just suddenly drop enough to prevent the car from running...unless you jumped time or damaged the engine somehow.

How are you doing the compression test? Are you sure of your results?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

Did something happen just before you shut it off the last time...any details you are leaving out?

 

[95talongirl]

If these 420A's are anything like thier Neon cousins be sure to check all your grounds. The Neon has a body ground that connects to the front core support, and if that was corroded up, the car wouldn't start. So check all the body grounds, too. Also on the Neon, they are known for some cam/crank sensor problems. Not so much the sensor itself, but again.. with the wiring to the sensor going.

 

[bullettdsm]

Your compression should be around 170 or higher, and I believe the service limit is 100... in which case your compression is well, horrible. But, it would be pretty unlikely that your compression would just suddenly drop enough to prevent the car from running...unless you jumped time or damaged the engine somehow.

How are you doing the compression test? Are you sure of your results?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

Did something happen just before you shut it off the last time...any details you are leaving out?

You go girl!

I believe Calan's on the right track. I suspect timing jump as well. If the timing is bad, the crank and cam sensor will not interact properly and it will have spark problems. You have already attacked a lot of the items that would cause your spark problems.

First thing that should be asked though is do you have any cel's? That can help us enormously (though I suspect that you can't read them without bringing it someplace).

Quickie check for timing (this is not SUPER accurate, but it should tell if you skipped time). Pull the #1 spark plug (the one closest to the pulleys). Now turn your engine over by hand until you are just about to line up the marks on the cam gears. Now take a long thin screw driver (or something like that) and stick it down the #1 cylinder until it sits on the piston (don't smash it down there or anything. You are not going to scar the face any, as long as you are relatively nice ). Now just rock the engine back and forth a little (yes its safe to rotate "backwards") noticing the highest point of the screw driver (makes some marks on it if you have to). You are only rocking a few teeth worth in each direction, trying to find when the screw driver is at its highest and that will be your TDC of #1 cylinder. Now check your cam marks and see if they are off by a lot.

Basically what you are doing is finding top dead center of #1 cylinder within a few degrees. Then you are seeing if your cams are where they are supposed to be. If the timing is off so much that the car won't start, you will be off by more than one tooth and it will be noticeable.

MB

 

[mikej84]

I don't know to me sounds like maybe a oil pump issue i swear that happend to me in my 420 and that along with the coils were the issue

 

[99 E-klips gs]

Have you checked your grounds. Mopars love grounds

Just wondering to how many miles are on your engine. Your saying your having compression problems maybe you need to replace your piston rings.

I have cleaned all the grounds that I can find on the chasis, along with the ground on the block

 

[99 E-klips gs]

Your compression should be around 170 or higher, and I believe the service limit is 100... in which case your compression is well, horrible. But, it would be pretty unlikely that your compression would just suddenly drop enough to prevent the car from running...unless you jumped time or damaged the engine somehow.

How are you doing the compression test? Are you sure of your results?

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/338152-compression-leak-down-testing.html

Did something happen just before you shut it off the last time...any details you are leaving out?

I just used a compression tester that I rented feom autozone. I should probably try the leak-down test.
And about a week before the car died, my girl let it get low on oil, after oil light came on she put oil in it. But thats all I can think of

 

[99 E-klips gs]

You go girl!

I believe Calan's on the right track. I suspect timing jump as well. If the timing is bad, the crank and cam sensor will not interact properly and it will have spark problems. You have already attacked a lot of the items that would cause your spark problems.

First thing that should be asked though is do you have any cel's? That can help us enormously (though I suspect that you can't read them without bringing it someplace).

Quickie check for timing (this is not SUPER accurate, but it should tell if you skipped time). Pull the #1 spark plug (the one closest to the pulleys). Now turn your engine over by hand until you are just about to line up the marks on the cam gears. Now take a long thin screw driver (or something like that) and stick it down the #1 cylinder until it sits on the piston (don't smash it down there or anything. You are not going to scar the face any, as long as you are relatively nice ). Now just rock the engine back and forth a little (yes its safe to rotate "backwards") noticing the highest point of the screw driver (makes some marks on it if you have to). You are only rocking a few teeth worth in each direction, trying to find when the screw driver is at its highest and that will be your TDC of #1 cylinder. Now check your cam marks and see if they are off by a lot.

Basically what you are doing is finding top dead center of #1 cylinder within a few degrees. Then you are seeing if your cams are where they are supposed to be. If the timing is off so much that the car won't start, you will be off by more than one tooth and it will be noticeable.

MB

I do have 1 cel. But I have had it sincw I bought the car. Is the 1459 I believe. Its the gas pressure in gas tank.
And thats good advice to check the timing, really helpful, I will try that when I get home tonight

 

[99 E-klips gs]

Could it be the harmonic balancer?

 

[99 E-klips gs]

Could it be the harmonic balancer?

Edit: when car is cold the belt would squeal, and my car would also misfire. All signs of harmonic balancer. It will aswell mess spark up

 

[English_Rugby]

I have a 1991 TSI AWD. A while ago it got fairly hot (210) and the cooling line to the turbo broke and leaked out coolant. I pulled over and stopped pretty quickly after it happened, and parked it until I replaced the line and put in more coolant. After this, it stopped starting (although it will fire a little). When this happened I noticed a crack in the exhaust manifold too. I got it towed to my house, and it's sat until now. It wants to fire but doesn't go past one or two fires, then it dies. When I turn the ignition key to on, but not crank, the fuel pump does not prime/cycle, I am wondering if this causes it? I know this is a series of problems, but it is a DSM after all.. What would you all suggest doing besides a BLT & fuel pump test? Thanks in advance.

 

[undefined0000]

Well, our cars don't prime when you turn the key to "On". What I do to test the fuel pump is just crank the car for like half a second and listen for the "CLICK!" and muffled "BUZZZ" from the gas tank. Don't wanna give out misleading information, so I can't really explain what the click is, just know its involved with the starting process, and buzz is of course the fuel pump.

I know you've got to have an AFPR with that beastly setup! I just check that usually on a no start condition. I've noticed that if the fuel pump is giving out or something, there's no pressure, and I head there. If there is pressure, I go to ignition/airflow

I know between my last 2 cars, when I forget the plug the MAF in, sometimes it will putt a few times and die.

I could rant on and on about fixing no-start, there's just so much, and I am no expert, just trying to get the ball rolling.

ALSO, did you resolve the overheating issue? Was it due to the fact that the turbo line leaked out too much coolant or was it something else?

And of course just as a last note. Checked your spark plugs?

 

[92AWDHX40]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/452195-start-issues-electrical-fuel.html


blt no, you may have a blown head gasket, read tech post.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

 

[undefined0000]

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/452195-start-issues-electrical-fuel.html


blt no, you may have a blown head gasket, read tech post.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-miscellaneous/217951-how-diagnose-no-start.html

Great link! Never came across that before that I'm aware of. Bookmarked. After reading that, I totally forgot about ECT. Wonder if its possible to foul it out.

 

[English_Rugby]

I got it running tonight.. I changed out all the harnesses as they shorted, turns out I missed plugging the MPI relay in... I have no idea how it managed to run for so long before it decided not to - thanks for your help!

 

[Chucky_D]

New walbro pump installed, still no start.

injectors arent lighting up with noid anymore either.

thinking its a wiring problem