Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

[prodsm]

All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.



I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks

 

[Talon5786]

Okay so after going to get plugs and a socket (lost mine) pulled out old ones smell of gas from me figuring out why it hasnt been start and there gaps were blown out to. 070 so needless to say problem fixed after tps and plugs.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Can u spin the engine over by hand? Try putting a ratchet on the crank. Also pull the dipstick and top timing cover just to check the basics.

I just tried rotating the crank.. all I succeeded in doing was tightening the bolt more. Crank isn't turning. Looks like I have seriously f@$ked something up inside.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Drop the oil pan and inspect.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Okay, the oil pan is off. Found a few metal flakes. I still can't get the engine to turn. Is there any other way to try to get it spinning? I'm already assuming I'll have to pull the damn thing out of the car again, but need info first.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Loosen all the mains and try to rotate it. If your not already try rotating both ways.

 

[spyderdrifter]

Got the mains and rods loosened. Just barely shifts in either direction. Should I just remove the girdle entirely or what?

Correction, just got the crank to turn in proper direction. Spun it around to TDC and everything is lining up right. Did a second look at the crank and rods and cyl 3 rod looks like its never had oil on it, yet all others look normal. Cyl head looks fine too, but not sure if any valves are bent. A friend mentioned possible jumped timing so I figured its worth a look since I'm tearing crap apart anyway. Oil smells and looked burnt, but has only been in for maybe 700 miles.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Use a long rod or help and disengage the clutch. Something with your tranny my have locked it up. I've had something weird like that happen b4. If main and rods are loose enough to wiggle then it should move.

 

[spyderdrifter]

As corrected, I did finally get it to turn.

 

[Diamond Star Werks]

Gotcha it came after i posted . Take that #3 rod cap off and check the bearings. Wonder if it looks that way because oil squirter isn't working right.

 

[spyderdrifter]

I'll give it a whirl.

 

[Chucky_D]

91 tsi, bought it running very rough/rich. seems like im traveling backwards on this one, could really use some help.

The car would sometimes start, sometimes idle fine for a while, sometimes bog out and stall. Now im at the point where it will not even try to start. I believe the problem is with the fuel system, the fuel pump tester in the engine bay DID work at one point, now its not. When i add 12v directly to the pump I hear everything turning on but still the engine just cranks.

when it does crank, the CEL, battery light and brake(I think) light stays on and the aftermarket boost gauge stays around 5psi. Everything sounds completely normal when its cranking no valves smacking or grinding, just doesnt start.

What I have replaced:

MAF,plugs,fresh oil,knock sensor.

What I have checked:

MPI relay (gets power on correct pins)
ECU (looks fine outside of the case, wasnt sure what pins to check for power)
Verified spark
Verified correct timing (belt and CAS)
Multiple fuses (ROOM was blown, replaced still no start)
Plug wires
Fusible link on the positive battery cable
Gas itself (added stabilizer/octane booster/ plenty of gas)


I know im forgetting something but this really has me stumped, is there any fuse besides the MPI relay that would stop the fuel system from working?


very similar to this situation:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/415793-no-start-power-fuel-pump.html#post153136783


Thanks!

 

[Tyeler18]

I replied in that other thread, but yours sounds mildly different.

You say you're getting power on the MPI, is their power coming out of it? Are you getting power to the fuel pump connector in the back? You think the fuel pump isn't turning on correct?

 

[Chucky_D]

I replied in that other thread, but yours sounds mildly different.

You say you're getting power on the MPI, is their power coming out of it? Are you getting power to the fuel pump connector in the back? You think the fuel pump isn't turning on correct?

Read your other response; Ill have to check fuel pressure.

Yes MPI is getting power, but nothing to the 12v wire (black/white) on the pump itself. I ran 12v strait into the black/white wire and could hear everything turning on/pumping but the car still didnt want to start.

 

[Tyeler18]

Read your other response; Ill have to check fuel pressure.

Yes MPI is getting power, but nothing to the 12v wire (black/white) on the pump itself. I ran 12v strait into the black/white wire and could hear everything turning on/pumping but the car still didnt want to start.

So you have an issue between the MPI and the pump then. Can't remember off hand which of the MPI wires is the 12v feed back to the pump, but make sure the MPI is supplying it's voltage out to the pump. If it's not, then obviously the MPI is the problem, if it is, then you need to find where you have a break in the wire going to the pump.

Also, go to your local parts store and see if you can rent their Noid light set. I had to buy one when testing mine, but I just returned it afterwards saying they didn't have one that fit my style connector. Make sure when you're cranking that the fuel injectors are pulsing. Go from there, as it seems you've covered most of the bases.

 

[Chucky_D]

So you have an issue between the MPI and the pump then. Can't remember off hand which of the MPI wires is the 12v feed back to the pump, but make sure the MPI is supplying it's voltage out to the pump. If it's not, then obviously the MPI is the problem, if it is, then you need to find where you have a break in the wire going to the pump.

Also, go to your local parts store and see if you can rent their Noid light set. I had to buy one when testing mine, but I just returned it afterwards saying they didn't have one that fit my style connector. Make sure when you're cranking that the fuel injectors are pulsing. Go from there, as it seems you've covered most of the bases.

I was actually planning to do the noid test on the injectors, my buddy has a light I'll try to find a replacement relay to swap as well and let you know how it goes. thanks !

 

[Tyeler18]

I was actually planning to do the noid test on the injectors, my buddy has a light I'll try to find a replacement relay to swap as well and let you know how it goes. thanks !

No need to swap, just test for 12v at the MPI with the key turned over. I'll see if I can find the wire to test.

 

[90tsiawdturbo]

Same thing just happened to me,it was my ecu....I might have misunderstood your post but did you look at the actual ecu chip board for burns?

 

[Chucky_D]

No need to swap, just test for 12v at the MPI with the key turned over. I'll see if I can find the wire to test.

Sorry i wasn't really clear, i got 12v at the mpi pins 3 and 8 i believe. Ill check when i get home

Same thing just happened to me,it was my ecu....I might have misunderstood your post but did you look at the actual ecu chip board for burns?

Yes took it completely out of the case checked both sides, thing looks brand new!

 

[Chucky_D]

Video Update!



I went out to the car, put the ECU back in, hooked up the battery and started to check the injectors with a noid. When I unplugged one injector and hooked up the noid I cranked the car, it started (on 3 injectors).

Hooked the 4th injector back up, same result. Car idled great stayed on with gas/clutch/brake/lights etc.

Eventually though it stalled, and continued to only run when given gas even after messing with the BISS screw I couldn't change the results.

ALSO- I ran the car with and without the MAF plugged in, same story.

No CEL (except with maf unplugged)
very small amount of black smoke, nothing I'm too concerned about

So basically, it ran great cold. When it warmed up it couldn't hold idle yet still revved up fine and made boost




Here's the video

1g TSI 4G63 Idle problems - YouTube

 

[Tyeler18]

Is your IAC plugged in?

Wait, it ran the same with or without the MAF plugged in? Is your o2 sensor working? If you have a logger i'd suggest plugging in, o2 may not be cycling?

 

[Chucky_D]

Is your IAC plugged in?

Wait, it ran the same with or without the MAF plugged in? Is your o2 sensor working? If you have a logger i'd suggest plugging in, o2 may not be cycling?

IAC- I'm 99% sure was plugged in, ill check again.

MAF- sorry I was definitely vague. When it was unplugged the car still stalled at idle BUT it revved like a turd, and the CEL came on.

o2- I don't have a logger, i can check for voltage at the 02, unless there's a better way to check the sensor

 

[Tyeler18]

I'd definitely check the o2, sounds like when it goes into closed loop it's not working properly. If you can get your hands on a logger or build a logging cable and use tunerpro on your laptop to log would be very helpful.

 

[Chucky_D]

More complications..

So I put the battery on the trickle charger while the car was sitting, went back out to start it yesterday and of course no start.

played with the positive cable a bit, reconnected it a couple times and eventually got the car back to starting/stalling at idle.

I figured throwing it on a charger wouldn't hurt so I brought the battery to get charged. I come back and the car refuses to start. Definitely lost now



checked the room fuse (it was fine) and for some reason the interior door lights only turn on for a few seconds when I swap fuses out then they go back out. Its not blowing the room fuse but for some reason it doesnt work.

also tried different links in the MPI socket on the cable, nothing.

 

[wicked94z28]

Hey im new to the whole dsm scene(lt/ls junkie) and need some help from the pros....I bought a 99 gsx with a 7 bolt that crank walked, so i bought a freshend up 6 bolt off Craigslist.. the gsx is auto so i bought the kit from kiggly racing to bolt the 6 bolt to the tranny.. hooked everything up (don't have the radiator in yet) cranked it over and she fired right up and ran great...turned it off then went to fire it up again and it would just crank..i checked everything it gas spark/fuel/compression... i diddent know what happened so i went to bed..went out tonight and hit the key and it fired up... i let it run for a couple min(not to long because i don't have the coolant system hooked up).. shut it off and went to start it up and it would just crank... i thought it may be bad gas so i drained the tank and stuck 20 bucks of 93 in it and it started up...ran for about 30 seconds then i heard a clank so i shut it off.. the tensioner must not have been right because the timing belt was loose so i took the tensioner off got everything tight and put back together(checked timing and it didn't jump) went to start it up again and the same thing happened, just cranked and wouldn't start) so I'm wondering if i missed something during the swap? Someone please help.....

 

[StephensToySpyder]

check your battery terminals , make sure there not loose or corroded.is you fuel pump working when you turn the key on ?

engine hard to start when hot :
1-air filter clogged
2-feul not reaching the feul rail injection system
3-corroded battery connections, especially ground