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Starting issues - No / Doesn't / Won't Start - MERGED

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prodsm

20+ Year Contributor
258
0
Nov 12, 2002
canada,
All "my car won't start" discussion threads are merged HERE. We've basically made it easier for those who insist upon not searching by grouping together all threads from those with similar issues so you can just scroll through and see some possible solutions. To search for info within this thread, use the "Search This Thread" feature in the black bar about 3" above what you're reading right now.

Could be anything from a loose battery terminal to internal engine damage, and literally everything in between which may involve the electrical, fuel, and ignition system...possibly even something that you screwed up while working on the car yourself. While it's unlikely we're going to diagnose and solve your problem over the internet, feel free to discuss any possible solutions.




I live in Canada and right now its not very warm out, about -30c
my car does not have a block heater too keep it warm.

I tryed to start my car this morning and it wouldent start, ive had this problem before but this time, the car doesnt crank at all it just makes a sound that sounds like an electric drill.

Whats wrong.

Thanks
 
Last edited by a moderator:
i will try messing aound with this today, i dont feel like i shouldnt even try to start it again, because i dont want to damage anything internaly if something IS wrong.
I may just wait to save up some cash to take it to my local guy.
 
Well since it is giving me so many problems, I am finally just having it towed home tomorrow; testing will be quicker thats for sure..

So I took of the wastegate actuator, want to see if that is bad, at the moment I just have it with me. Also, there has to be a serious leak coming from like exhaust manifold. All I know is there is ALOT of air noise..

Hopefully it wont be so difficult to find things now that I am not going to be out side in the rain of Washington
 
The way I find those massive leaks is with some 2inch hose I bought from autozone. I use it as a stethoscope (sp).
 
That's normal. Its so the engine doesn't stall. It should settle to 1500 for a bit, then fall to fairly normal idle. Don't think normal and idle can go together on a DSM forum LOL. As long as it doesn't stay at 2500, you're fine.
 
I don't think the factory code actually does that. I know DSMLink does.

You are correct on that, but he does have link. I've read somewhere on the ecmlink site that they added that to the code, so it definitely was not there from the factory.
 
The early 420A where known to heat soak the wiring to the coil pack. The issue is the EGR tube that runs from exhaust pipe to the EGR valve. You will need to check the wiring harness up by the throttle body. The wiring harness is subject to extreme heat. I have found the wiring to the crank sensor under intake manifold damaged by heat. There was factory bulletin that covered this issue. Usually the heat will cause the plastic shielding to shrink and crack on the wires. A short...no spark...hope this helps. I would block off the EGR valve and remove the pipe or reroute the wiring. Look at back of the head drivers side you will find a bracket bolted to the head from the EGR tube, usually the coil wiring is damaged from either sitting on the pipe or heat soak issues,
 
. OK guys, I need some inquisitive feedback. Yesterday morning on my way to work, my car decided to die yet again. Was doing maybe 80mph, and the engine just shut off. No warning at all. Wasn't overheating or anything either. After pulling over, car wouldn't start up again, so I had it towed home. Won't crank either. Left it alone all day yesterday and today.

So on my way home from school tonight, I decided to check to see if my coils where sparking, since I forgot about the no crank part. Turned out to attempt to crank over and the coils did spark. But the 2nd and 3rd attempt went back to no cranking. My starter didn't sound normal either, so that's the first thing I'm gonna pull off to get tested. Anyone got ideas? I've never been at a point where there's no crank/ no start, and then it attempts to start just to go back to nothing.
 
Can u spin the engine over by hand? Try putting a ratchet on the crank. Also pull the dipstick and top timing cover just to check the basics.
 
I haven't tried anything yet beyond what I mentioned. I only spend 5 hours a day at home Mon-Thur and I'm usually asleep. I really won't have a chance to tinker with it until Friday after work. I will try what you've mentioned. Hopefully the timing didn't jump.
 
if the cables are all good not corroded making bad contact etc. have you tried to jump it? my buudies truck did this the other night acctually. the alternator quit and it ran until the batt. died.get a multi meter and read batt voltage if its lower than 12v try to jump start it. it if you jump it and it starts get a multi-meter and set it to the highest number closest to 14v usally 20v. with it running it should be between 12.7 and 14.4v and 12.7 is on the lowww looww side.
 
Make sure the power transistor connector is properly secured. Had one back out slightly on me and car died while driving. Probably not the issue but an easy check.
 
Sounds to me like you shouldnt get ahead of yourself till you get that starter off and checked out. All I read was you checked the cables. Have you got that starter looked at yet?
 
I just wanted to post this problem I had. Due to never running into such a weird problem. I was having a weak start for 2 days. Finally she wouldn't start, I turned the key and got a mild thumping sound from the starter.
I replaced the battery (it bubbled over due to bad alt) with no luck. I cleaned the terminals next still nothing. After several turns of the key I got a p0335 code(crank angle sensor). I decided to pull the starter first and have it tested. It passed the test at the auto part store. But it had a feinting sound of movement inside. I went with my gut a replaced the starter. Instilled it and it fired rig:thumb:ht up.
Just to clear up some wrong information about removing and installing a starter on a Turbo 2G. You can do this job without removing the intake manifold. All that needs to be removed is the upper intercooler pipe, and battery. I pulled it up from under the water hoses and clutch lines. Anyways just a little information someone might find useful in the future. :hellyeah:
 
Okay so i cleaned the throttle body out with carb cleaner and started the car to run thru turned it off put the intake tube back on and made a phone call went to start the car to leave and will not start. Its a 420a no mods except full exhaust. It is getting spark, fuel pump ihums when turn key. Replaced the iac sensor and tps with ones off a friends car and still nothing. Will not start with start fluid at all either.

Not sure if this helps or is even anything but the fuel pump humms extremelty loud to me for stock yhinking the guy i got it from put a 190 in there could it be possible that the fuel pressure is to much without regulator and caise plugs to go bad? Going to get plugs right nw. Sorry for bad spelling am using my phone thanks all
 
Wouldn't hurt to check to make sure you're injectors are firing. Poor man way is to put a long screwdriver on the injector and listen for the clicking. There's a ton of info out there on what fouled spark plugs look like and that's an easy check.
 
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