General Speeduino ISC/IAC Stepper idle settings?

[Alex40823]

Hello, does anyone have the right step settings for a stepper open loop settings on tuner studio?

I currently have these settings on tuner studio for this 6 pin iacv (the two red middle wires are cut so it wont interfere with the speeduino board)

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[steve]

Hello, does anyone have the right step settings for a stepper open loop settings on tuner studio?

I currently have these settings on tuner studio for this 6 pin IAC (the two red middle wires are cut so it won't interfere with the speeduino board)

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Can't answer the specific question but I have two things to offer.

Don't use the old metal case ISC's like you have in the picture. They have a problem with moisture getting inside and shorting out the coils. Get a black plastic cased one.

Without the two middle wires connected the ISC can't function. Those wires provide the voltage source for the stepper motor coils and the ECU activates them by pulling one of the other pins low in sequence to move the pintle.

Perhaps I'm missing the point of what your doing.

 

[bastarddsm]

Without the two middle wires connected the ISC can't function. Those wires provide the voltage source for the stepper motor coils and the ECU activates them by pulling one of the other pins low in sequence to move the pintle.

Steve, most standalone stuff operates our IAC as a bipolar stepper, not unipolar as the OEM ECU did.

 

[Alex40823]

Do you guys know how to set up the settings for the steps on tunerstudio for the IAC/ISC?
Like how to home it or how to know how much steps are needed?

 

[Alex40823]

Hey guys it's my first time setting up a UA4C vc2 Speeduino board and Arduino board, also paired with a Arduino board. If any of you guys have experience on this, I might need some help with setting this ECU up on tuner studio.

I have a Galant VR4 wire harness with MPI relay, my problem right now is on the IAC wiring which I cant seem to control on tuner studio.

If you guys have any idea on this please let me know.

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[petrosian]

I spent a good amount of time last week reading through the Speeduino wiki (Configuration Index). This is a very interesting platform, and if enough people get into it, I'd think it would warrant it's own prefix here on the site alongside ECMLINK and the others.

Also, I think I found your post on the Speeduino FB group: Alex's IAC Post. It looks like you're already using the 4 pins... They're saying you need the 8825 driver but I'm pretty sure it's already built into your board, since you have the pins for it specifically. Newer boards are coming with the 8825 driver integrated into it instead of having to buy it separately.

Just to cover bases, if your IAC is original, you verified it works, correct (resistance test)?

You may have already found this, but the Speeduino Idle page has a lot of information on testing and setting up stepper motor IAC's: Scroll down to Stepper Motors

If you scroll down, you'll see some DSM settings have already been determined:

Motor	Step time	Home steps
GM 4-wire	3	250
DSM 4-wire	4	270-320

NOTE: While normal DSM stepper function is seen at room temperatures at 3ms, step skipping occurs just under that speed. Very cold temperatures may cause skipping, thus the recommendation of 4ms. Test for the most suitable speeds for your setup.

 

[Alex40823]

I spent a good amount of time last week reading through the Speeduino wiki (Configuration Index). This is a very interesting platform, and if enough people get into it, I'd think it would warrant it's own prefix here on the site alongside ECMLINK and the others.

Also, I think I found your post on the Speeduino FB group: Alex's IAC Post. It looks like you're already using the 4 pins... They're saying you need the 8825 driver but I'm pretty sure it's already built into your board, since you have the pins for it specifically. Newer boards are coming with the 8825 driver integrated into it instead of having to buy it separately.

Just to cover bases, if your IAC is original, you verified it works, correct (resistance test)?

You may have already found this, but the Speeduino Idle page has a lot of information on testing and setting up stepper motor IAC's: Scroll down to Stepper Motors
If you scroll down, you'll see some DSM settings have already determined:

Motor	Step time	Home steps
GM 4-wire	3	250
DSM 4-wire	4	270-320

NOTE: While normal DSM stepper function is seen at room temperatures at 3ms, step skipping occurs just under that speed. Very cold temperatures may cause skipping, thus the recommendation of 4ms. Test for the most suitable speeds for your setup.

Oh yup thats me alright haha, I've been so busy looking at forums, pdf's, old facebook posts or anything that could help out what I'm trying to do. And yeah my speeduino board already has a built in stepper driver, I think I got the wiring correctly from the speedo board to the stock wire harness, since I can hear it vibrating when turning the ign on, but I still havent been able to control the motor through tuner studio.

 

[Vegas Smith]

When you say you can't control the motor, what is happening? Is the car not idling correctly or are you expecting to press a button in studio and watch ISC move?

 

[Alex40823]

When you say you can't control the motor, what is happening? Is the car not idling correctly or are you expecting to press a button in studio and watch isc move?

For now the car seems to idle "okay". What I mean is, I'm trying to control the steps of the iacv motor on tunerstudio, so I can move the motor in and out and so it changes the rpm, but I cant seem to control it, I'm not sure if its within the software that I did wrong or the wiring.

 

[Vegas Smith]

Is there an idle ignition control active or is the ISC placed in closed loop? Both of those will fight you when initially setting idle. Also, try the reversing polarity function.

 

[Alex40823]

Is there an idle ignition control active or is the ISC placed in closed loop? Both of those will fight you when initially setting idle. Also, try the reversing polarity function.

I currently have it set up like this on tuner studio, the only things I messed around with is the idle settings and the IAC stepper motor chart. The IAC stepper motor cranking I haven't touched yet. And it's currently wired up like this on the picture since it's the only wiring set up that "Vibrated" with the ignition key on.

Basically like this:
Speeduino board output ----> IACV socket/wire
2A ---> 1A 1A--->2A
2B --->2B 1B --->1B
^That's my wiring diagram that I had "success" and currently using now since it's the only time I felt the IACV vibrating with ignition key on.
The two middle pins on the stock wire harness and ecu are 12v with ignition on, based on other forums that you have to cut those 2 middle wires since the power will be coming from the speeduino board.

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I'm a noob when it comes to electrical but I have this pdf on the Talons maintenance book and saw this about the IACV diagram.

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[jlust07]

That write up is awesome, I've recently been getting into the speeduino scene, car is all hooked up and driving around on it right now! Although my idle seems to be unusually high (around 2k atm). I've tried lowering and raising the idle stepper values, changing the VE table, as well as touching the ignition table to try to get it to idle lower. The other problem I have been having is cranking, the car takes about 3-5 seconds worth of cranking to start sputtering up, I've messed with cold start enrichment, cranking enrichment, ASE, the VE table. I can't tell if maybe using my CAS, and having it be lower resolution is the problem for that specifically? What other setting have you used? Have you experienced these problems when getting yours running?

 

[Alex40823]

That write up is awesome, I've recently been getting into the speeduino scene, car is all hooked up and driving around on it right now! Although my idle seems to be unusually high (around 2k atm). I've tried lowering and raising the idle stepper values, changing the VE table, as well as touching the ignition table to try to get it to idle lower. The other problem I have been having is cranking, the car takes about 3-5 seconds worth of cranking to start sputtering up, I've messed with cold start enrichment, cranking enrichment, ASE, the VE table. I can't tell if maybe using my CAS, and having it be lower resolution is the problem for that specifically? What other setting have you used? Have you experienced these problems when getting yours running?

At least speeduino is getting some kind of recognition here in the DSM community haha
With the idle issue about the IACV, I just gave up trying to control the stepper motor, some of my friends got it to work with tunerstudio and can control the stepper motor (they have a Evo III wire harness and I have a Galant VR4 wire harness, they're similar but not all.)
Some old gear heads in some forums gave up on trying to control it too and just went with the throttle stopper route of controlling idle. Which in my case I also did, I simply control the idle by using the throttle stop screw of either loosening it (Lowers idle rpm) or tightening it (Raises idle rpm). Dont get it mixed up with the BISS screw which is in front. the throttle stop screw is on the left side of the throttle body near the throttle cable. So far I have no problems with idle, just make you get your warm up enrichment right, it's a matter of experimenting with it (which worked for me haha)

Yeah with the Cranking part especially when cold, I also have that problem. during cold starts when I try turn it on this is usually how it goes:
first crank 2-3 seconds then I let go, then try cranking it again then it usually starts. Not sure why it does that but that's how it goes hahaha but
also, a lot of people have been telling me to change the stock resolution CAS disk which is low res and get a Yoshifab High Res Cas Disk

Yoshifab

Volvo performance and fabrication

yoshifab.com

I bought one and haven't tried it yet since I'm out of the country. But will let you what I did to it, or maybe you might even do it first since I'm not gonna be back till maybe next year. Either way if you do get to it first, let me know. But yeah that's pretty much what I have going on speeduino, I do have a tune on it right now and so far it's doing really good, except for the cold starts and idle control which can be annoying at first but I got used to how it is, but other than that everything seems to be ok, launch control works, flat foot shifting pretty much everything you need to go fast and have fun without blowing the motor out hahaha. I've heard good stuff about the yoshifab disc so can't wait to try it on my car.

 

[jlust07]

So I actually got the Yoshifab disk as well as it seemed like a super affordable option to getting higher resolution. Potentially helps with cranking, however I had pretty terrible luck getting the trigger pattern working. I tried the 4G63 pattern, missing tooth, dual wheel (per there documentation that should have been the one). So if you figure that out I’d definitely be excited to hear about it.

I’ve also been having some problems with acceleration, my turbo being the big 16g spools too fast and hits my boot cut of 210 kpa (16 psi)? I might just need to adjust my table and make it larger, set the boost cut later so I can actually hit the waste gate. I may also need to adjust my target AFR table to meet the VE table needs.

Have you had boost cut / bucking issues when getting yours tuned up?

 

[Alex40823]

So I actually got the Yoshifab disk as well as it seemed like a super affordable option to getting higher resolution. Potentially helps with cranking, however I had pretty terrible luck getting the trigger pattern working. I tried the 4G63 pattern, missing tooth, dual wheel (per there documentation that should have been the one). So if you figure that out I’d definitely be excited to hear about it.

I’ve also been having some problems with acceleration, my turbo being the big 16g spools too fast and hits my boot cut of 210 kpa (16 psi)? I might just need to adjust my table and make it larger, set the boost cut later so I can actually hit the waste gate. I may also need to adjust my target AFR table to meet the VE table needs.

Have you had boost cut / bucking issues when getting yours tuned up?

Sorry for the late reply. Been pretty busy
Anyway, I haven’t had the chance of putting my yoshifab on yet but I’ll let you know if I do but I don’t think it’s gonna be a missing tooth pattern but I’m not really sure.

On your spooling problem I think it might just be your table I’m on 10lbs of boost but I have my table way over that range (I forgot how much kpa). I also have my rpm mapped out way larger than the my rpm limit.
Actually right now I have bucking issues when I floor it quickly it bucks a bit then instantly starts hitting boost feels like a anti lag but I’m pretty sure it’s just my table or could be with Acceleration enrichment too. But I’ll have to look more into it

 

[jlust07]

So quick update, I got the crank problem narrowed down a bit. When the car is warm (180-190F coolant) I raised the priming pulses to around 2-3 and it started almost right up. When my car was getting into boost apparently my boost cut was too low, and I had nitros enabled, so the car would be dumping fuel as it was expecting a nitros shot. On top of that I got myself another program called “megalogviewer” super helpful, noticed my target afr was 0.2 lambda off my actual. So I’m running extremely rich right off the bat, I’m guessing it’s choking the spark out, car bucks, and then once enough air enters the car starts going. I’m going to test that theory tonight as I lowered the VE cells in that area by 10.

 

[Alex40823]

So quick update, I got the crank problem narrowed down a bit. When the car is warm (180-190F coolant) I raised the priming pulses to around 2-3 and it started almost right up. When my car was getting into boost apparently my boost cut was too low, and I had nitros enabled, so the car would be dumping fuel as it was expecting a nitros shot. On top of that I got myself another program called “megalogviewer” super helpful, noticed my target afr was 0.2 lambda off my actual. So I’m running extremely rich right off the bat, I’m guessing it’s choking the spark out, car bucks, and then once enough air enters the car starts going. I’m going to test that theory tonight as I lowered the VE cells in that area by 10.

Oh yeah forgot to mention about megalogviewer, I also use that to do street runs on my tune and that's where I also read what afr I am when boosting, normal driving, idling. It's super helpful.

When you mean raising the priming pulse to 2-3 and it starts up almost instantly, is it when the car is warm or during a cold start? During a cold start you could try messing around with cranking enrichment, usually from what I saw try increasing the cranking enrichment, that helps a bit

 

[Alex40823]

So quick update, I got the crank problem narrowed down a bit. When the car is warm (180-190F coolant) I raised the priming pulses to around 2-3 and it started almost right up. When my car was getting into boost apparently my boost cut was too low, and I had nitros enabled, so the car would be dumping fuel as it was expecting a nitros shot. On top of that I got myself another program called “megalogviewer” super helpful, noticed my target afr was 0.2 lambda off my actual. So I’m running extremely rich right off the bat, I’m guessing it’s choking the spark out, car bucks, and then once enough air enters the car starts going. I’m going to test that theory tonight as I lowered the VE cells in that area by 10.

So I messaged some of my friends on their trigger set up for the Yoshifab they said that under trigger settings for
Trigger Pattern use- Dual Wheel
Primary Base teeth- 12
Primary trigger speed- Crank Speed
Trigger angle that depends on your timing
Skip revolutions is 1
Trigger edge -Rising
secondary trigger edge - Rising
Trigger filter Off
Re-sync every cycle Yes

Havent tried that yet but that works on their car

 

[paqu]

Hi everyone,

I just wanted to join the conversation as I'm also running a Speeduino v0.4 with a G4JS Hyundai engine, which is a clone of the 4G63/64. I've been struggling with cranking and starting issues (usually starts at the second attempt) for nearly a year. Despite trying various configurations, including adjusting prime pulses and other settings, I haven’t been able to achieve reliable results.

I'm now also considering switching to a more accurate trigger pattern and came across an updated trigger wheel used in the Chinese version of the 4G63 (Great Wall models). The part number is SMW250582, and it’s available on AliExpress and similar platforms (attaching a photo for reference).

My question is whether this trigger wheel would work with our hall-effect trigger sensor. Has anyone tried it, or do you have any insights or suggestions?

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