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Solid tensioner

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While I would agree with Defiant in that the most common noticeable failure is the belt teeth separating from the belt itself at the root of the tooth. However I would make the argument that in addition to erosion and compression. that belt stretching promotes and may even help initiate this type of tooth erosion. After all it is the teeth themselves that bear the drive and driven forces, and they must transmit those forces to the belt itself. This translates to compression forces on one side of the tooth root and tension on the other.

Silver bulit
I do not see where anyone condemns the mechanical tensioner. Like I stated before I have seen this on DSM engines. However I think the consensus here is why spend more money (the add states from $109.95) to ensure your self more work. When there is no real or perceived problem with the stock system.

Good luck and please let us know how it works out.
 
We aren't trying to bring down your thoughts on the product, merely open your eyes to the fact you don't "need" it. Yes it seems like a really cool idea, but your creating a hassle and potential breakdown on the notion that you are going to always check the tension on that belt. Thats just like people I tell to always check their air pressure. How many of them actually do it? The solid tensioner was best designed for track only cars. That don't run timing belt covers. After every pass or after every race, they check to make sure that tensioner is tight. We would just hate to hear in a few months or maybe year or years, that your timing belt broke or you skipped teeth.

We are only giving you advice. Whether you take it or leave it, is your decision.
 
The B-series engine's don't use a solid tensioner, they have an adjustable pulley(like our engines) with a spring attached to it. The spring is what keeps the tension, same idea as the hydraulic tensioner on our cars, it's just implemented differently.

The spring is only there to set the tension when installing it. After that the bolt is tightened down the pulley does not move. That is how it is on the B18B anyway.
 
Thats pretty much for track cars, the hydro tensionner uses the fluid to dampen the belt occilations to give you more belt life. Who knows how long your timing belt would last without those dampening actions.
 
I wouldn't use that tensioner unless you want to replace your timing belt often. And you would have to re-tension it often also.
 
a stock autotensioner acts as a sort of "dampener" (as in suspension) for the timing belt system. Any movement / vibration in the engine during operation is compensated for on the autotensioner system.


I don't understand this train of thought. I don't see how the stock tensioner would be capable of compressing and decompressing fast enough to compensate for tension differences while revving a motor. If you stick it in a vise and smush a given tensioner it takes forever to get it to move and if you try to compress it to fast it can ruin the seals. If this is the case how can the tensioner act as a dampener?

The stock tensioner has no problem extending itself but in order to act as a dampener I would say it has to compress in a similar manner that it decompresses. Meaning it needs to be able to return to its initial position without to big of a difference. If you rev a motor all the way up, by the time you are ready to repeat the tensioner needs to be back where it was in order to not put improper tension on the belt. I just don't see this being possible.

I'm not saying your wrong or anything like that I just don't understand how this could be possible given the reasoning I stated.

If only there was a similar item that could compensate for belt stretch. I really hate dealing with compressing the hydraulic units during belt changes.
 
Before any repeats the lack of need ask Alex "fst91dsm" how pleased he was when his stock tensioner failed on the dyno at less than 500whp?!

It is for that and several other reasons I am running the BLE tensioner on my 92 GSX.
I have no prior experience with DSMs and bought this one "Field Fresh" not running etc...
I did a full build Eagle/Mahle/BSE/fidanza etc.. I chose the Gates Kevlar belt and the BLE solid tensioner with a new mitsu tensioner pulley. I set the tensioner nice and snug by hand then tightened the bolt on the BLE unit until I had a 90 degree rotation on the firewall side of the belt. So far only about 40 miles on this setup and all is still exactly the same. I did leave all timing covers off so I can keep a close eye on things for the first little while. So we shall see what happens??
Not alot of insight but I decided to just give it a shot so .............................................
Lets see what the next 100 miles brings?!
 
Well, good luck with that. I hope it works out great.
 
any news on these? be interested to hear some results......

Its kinda one of those situations where its either still working or not...........isnt it?? :cool:

Several feet of snow slowed my progress on mine. But I did get it dug out and take it for another drive :thumb:
Everything appears to be in the same spot no change whatsoever but Im still on break-in and havent put any real power to it as of yet.
 
Has now been proven many, many times. When it came on the market it got a bad rep because of apparent installation error. partsdinosaur actually has a write up on it. I'd be comfotable buying from them.

MB
 
im going to have to disagree( to some extent) the hydraulic tensioner works, but fails with time(guaranteed). sooner or later you will have to replace it. granted the hydraulic tensioner takes up space that the belt sestains while it is stretched, but how much can a belt really be stretched? im willing to bet my last penny that there have been more belt tension failures with the hydraulic unit then there have been with this BLE unit ( comparing on the date when the ble unit was presented to the market). i agree the downside to this ble unit is you might have to adjust the tension on the belt with the solid tensioner, once say every 8 or 9 months, but at least u have a solid piece of mind that it will not fail. i went with this ble unit after my hydraulic tensioner failed on me( the infamous tensioner tick) and so far so good. and i have yet to hear of any neagtive feedback from the unit, other than the people that have not used it. my .02
 
Every 8-9 months? Seriously doubt that it can be checked that sparingly.
 
I don't understand this train of thought. I don't see how the stock tensioner would be capable of compressing and decompressing fast enough to compensate for tension differences while revving a motor. If you stick it in a vise and smush a given tensioner it takes forever to get it to move and if you try to compress it to fast it can ruin the seals. If this is the case how can the tensioner act as a dampener?

The stock tensioner has no problem extending itself but in order to act as a dampener I would say it has to compress in a similar manner that it decompresses. Meaning it needs to be able to return to its initial position without to big of a difference. If you rev a motor all the way up, by the time you are ready to repeat the tensioner needs to be back where it was in order to not put improper tension on the belt. I just don't see this being possible.

I'm not saying your wrong or anything like that I just don't understand how this could be possible given the reasoning I stated.

If only there was a similar item that could compensate for belt stretch. I really hate dealing with compressing the hydraulic units during belt changes.

A revving motor doesnt stretch the belt, at least not in the manner you are talking about. IMHO using anything OTHER than the stock tensioner is PLEADING for major trouble. As for the guy whos failed on the dyno, id bet he didnt replace it when he built the motor, and if he did, well, who knows? Trust me, the tensioner DOES move over time. Why do you think you need to decompress it before you pull the t-belt? If its adjusted properly, you will be able to pull the grenade pin in and out, but i bet you drive it for a month, and youll have to decompress it to insert the pin.

For the ones who use a solid one, how you do KNOW it works well? Just because you arent smashing valves doesnt mean its WORKING properly.
 
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