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2G BLE solid or factory timing belt tensioner for my build?

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TheFlashDSM

Supporting Member
1,106
356
Feb 18, 2010
stony brook, New York
For my high hp build i bough a ble solid tensioner, i saw it online and jumped to conclusion that it would be best for my build. well im at the stage now where im putting back together my motor. and doing some research i found the ble might not be as good as i thought.

what i know about the ble. please correct if im wrong. HARSH COMMENTS WELCOME!

1. constant checking of belt tension
2. being an iron block and aluminum head when it heats up and they expand it could make belt too tight
3. keeps constant tension on the belt with no belt slap at high rpm

Q. will i be okay with the stock tensioner and tasking a risk of it blowing out, or should i use the ble and always check the belt tension before every race?

please will someone let me know if my track only car will benefit on the track from it or not.

current build... http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/my-2g-dsm-second-build-this-ones-going-smoother.499369/
 
This has literally been beaten to death in numerous other threads. You even posted on one of them...

It comes down to personal preference, and personally, I'd never run a solid tensioner. Read the information in the other threads and make a choice for yourself.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/solid-tensioner.245642/page-3

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/hydraulic-or-solid-timing-tensioner.496629/#post-153540582

http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/gates-timing-belt.502944/#post-153585601


there all good post but the one problem with them all is nobody states anything for a high hp track car only, all the threads everywhere are for daily drivers, i need an answer from somebody that has a track car running high hp, in the range of 700-1000+, like whats boostin performance running, or jeff bush, or darren thomas, im just looking for a simple use a solid on a track only car, or use an oem one, and a slight reason for it, this thread i created was for somebody looking for an answer for a track car 1/4 racer, not circuit racer. if you have an answer for me that would be great and much appreciated.
 
The HP level of your car isn't going to make a hydraulic tensioner any more or less prone to failure, if that's what you're asking. Nor will it make running a solid tensioner make any more sense than it does on a street car, IMO.

I can tell you one thing for certain: If you're ever at at point where you're actually making 1,000 hp, you'll have plenty of parts failing before you ever have to worry about the hydraulic tensioner shitting out. It's a non-issue if you ask me.
 
People that f up stock tensioners have a lack of attention to detail and don't follow maintenance intervals. My suggestion is when you get to the conclusion that "I'm doing this to avoid the risk". ... evaluate what the risk really is, who the risk has affected, and what the OEM does (if anything) to get around this risk.
 
People that f up stock tensioners have a lack of attention to detail and don't follow maintenance intervals. My suggestion is when you get to the conclusion that "I'm doing this to avoid the risk". ... evaluate what the risk really is, who the risk has affected, and what the OEM does (if anything) to get around this risk.

thats great and all, but nobody still has an answer for me, THIS IS NOT FOR A DAILY! SO MY RISK IS AT 800+HP, WHATS YOURS?
 
I run a stock tensioner and rev to 9200-9500. No problems.

It's not even really a tensioner when set up right. It's a slack taker upper. The tension side of the belt is from the exhaust cam, over the intake cam, around the oil pump, and to the crank gear. From the crank gear to the exhaust cam is slack only. Think of a bicycle derailleur, no matter what gear you are in or how hard you pedal it only sees the slack side of the chain.
 
I run a stock tensioner and rev to 9200-9500. No problems.

It's not even really a tensioner when set up right. It's a slack taker upper. The tension side of the belt is from the exhaust cam, over the intake cam, around the oil pump, and to the crank gear. From the crank gear to the exhaust cam is slack only. Think of a bicycle derailleur, no matter what gear you are in or how hard you pedal it only sees the slack side of the chain.

I too use to rev to 9.5k+ with the stock tensioner and never had a problem.

Horespower doesn't matter for that part of the car. The 1000hp cars are using OEM tensioners too. Does that help?

thank you guys very much, this is exactly what i was looking for! oem it is!
 
One of my biggest DSM fears has been what to do when the day comes when there are no more OEM tensioners. Well we are there. I don't want this to become a debate thread of which is better we already know the OEM is the best option, however it is no longer an option. I want turn this into a how to thread. What is the proper way to setup a solid tensioner. From my research they seem to work. I welcome all persons that have ran a BLE and their experiences. I did find this one video for a 3S.

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One of my biggest DSM fears has been what to do when the day comes when there are no more OEM tensioners. Well we are there. I don't want this to become a debate thread of which is better we already know the OEM is the best option, however it is no longer an option. I want turn this into a how to thread. What is the proper way to setup a solid tensioner. From my research they seem to work. I welcome all persons that have ran a BLE and their experiences. I did find this one video for a 3S.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
FWIW, the OEM hydraulic tensioner isn't discontinued, but they are harder to find now. Extreme PSI has it in stock as of today, for a 6-bolt. Not sure about availability of a 7-bolt unit.
 
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